AND 



HAND 



BOOK 




Book I?O a 

Copyright N" 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



CALIFORNIA 

TOURIST GUIDE AND 
HANDBOOK 



AUTHENTIC DESCRIPTION OF ROUTES OF 

TRAVEL AND POINTS OF INTEREST 

IN CALIFORNIA 

[ ILLUSTRATED ] 

BY 

WELLS DRURY 

AND 
AUBREY DRURY 

Western Guidebook Company, Berkeley, California 



Copyright, 1913, by Western Guidebook Company 
All rights reserved; including translation 



Plan of the Work 

For the convenience of the reader, this guide book is ar- 
ranged in Routes, designated by numbers, and Side Trips, 
Indicated by letters. The Routes are generally on main lines 
of travel; the Side Trips are grouped under these chief head- 
ings, so that they may be referred to by the traveler, without 
loss of time. Prom the fact that parts of the State are de- 
scribed under Side Trip titles, it is not to be inferred that 
they are of minor interest. Some of the most inviting regions 
are more or less remote from the chief thoroughfares, and 
should be visited by those who desire to know California. 

After the names of places are figures in parentheses, which 
show the distance of the town or city from the place just pre- 
viously mentioned. The hotels are listed, with figures show- 
ing rates. A. P. means American plan; E. P. signifies Eu- 
ropean plan. Without these letters the rates are under the 
American plan. 

In order to facilitate use of the book as a work of refer- 
ence, the names of important places are printed in capital 
letters, and notable features of the different localities are 
distinguished by black-faced type. The reader is invited to 
use the table of contents and the index. 



Table of Contents 

Main Routes Designated by Numbers. Side Trips 
Indicated by Letters. 

Introduction 11 

1. San Francisco 33 

a. Mount Tamalpais Trip 64 

b. Ocean Shore Trip 65 

2. Tlie East Bay Cities 67 

a. Oa-kland 68 

b. Alameda 74 

c. Berkeley 75 

d. Richmond 82 

3. San Francisco to San Jose 84 

4. San Jose to Santa Cruz 9 4 

a. Felton to Boulder Creek 100 

b. Santa Cruz to Monterey 100 

5. San Jose to Monterey : 101 

a. Gilroy to Tres Pinos 110 

b. Sargent to San Juan Bautista Ill 

6. Monterey to San I^uis Obispo 113 

a. King- City to Mission San Antonio 120 

b. San Ijuis Obispo to Los Olivos 121 

7. San Luis Obispo to Santa Barbara 123 

8. Santa Ba.rbara to Los Angeles 130 

a. Ventura to Nordhoff 133 

b. Ventura to Los Ang-eles, via Santa Paula 135 

9. Los Angeles 13C 

a. Pasadena and South Pasadena 148 

b. San Gabriel 149 

c. HollyAVOod 153 

d. Santa Moni ca 154 

e. Venice 155 

f. Redondo 157 

g-. San Pedro (Port Los Angeles) 158 

h. Santa Catalina Island 160 

i. Long- Beach 161 

j. Naples, Huntington Beach, Ne-vvport 16 4 

k. Mount Lowe 165 

1. Mount Wilson 167 

m. Other Side Trips 168 



10. L,os Angeles to San Dieg-o 169 

a. Oceansido to Pala 179 

b. Oceanside to Fallbrook and Escondido 180 

c. San Dieg-o to La Jolla 181 

d. San Diego to Foster 182 

e. San Diego to Tia, Juana 184 

11. San Francisco to Sacramento 183 

a. Port Costa to Stockton 19 4 

b. Martinez to Divermore 195 

c. Vallejo and Mare Island 197 

d. Elniira to Rumscy 197 

e. Woodland to Marysville 198 

12. Sacramento to M.arysville 199 

a. Marysville to Oroville 201 

b. Marysville into Sierra County 202 

13. Marysville to Redding 205 

a. Redding to Lassen Peak 210 

b. Redding to Weaverville 211 

14. Redding to Oregon Line 212 

15. AVoodiand to Red Bluff 217 

16. Sacramento to Placerville 220 

17. San Francisco to Napa and Clear Lake 223 

18. San Francisco to .Santa Rosa 228 

a. Sausaiito to Gazadero 232 

b. San Rafael to Glen Ellen 233 

c. Santa Rosa to Cazadero 234 

19. Santa Rosa to Willits 236 

a. Willits to Fort Bragg (California Western) 239 

20. Willits to Eureka 240 

21. W'estern Pacific Lines (Feather River Canyon) 243 

22. Plumas Junction to Alturas 246 

23. Sacramento to Truckee and Nevada Line 249 

a. Colfax to Nevada City 253 

24. San Francisco to Stockton 254 

25. Stockton to Sacramento 259 

a. Lodi to San Andreas 260 

b. Gait to lone 260 

26. Stockton to Fresno — East Route 261 

a. Stockton to Merced, via Oakdale 267 

b. Oakdale to Sonora 26S 

c. Merced to El Portal 274 

d. Berenda to Raj^mond 277 



27. Stockton to Fresno — West Route 278 

28. Fresno to Bakersfield — Central Route 280 

29. Fresno to Bakersfield — West Route 233 

a. Hanford to Coaling-a 285 

30. Fresno to Bakersfield — East Route 286 

31. Bakersfield to Los Angeles 288 

32. Los Angeles to Bishop (Owens River Valley) 291 

3:^ Los Angeles to San Bernardino 299 

a. San Bernardino to Riverside 303 

b. Los Angeles to Riverside 308 

c. San Bernardino to Redlands 309 

d. Riverside to San Jacinto 311 

e. Riverside to Lake Elsinore 312 

34. San Bernardino to Yuma (Sunset Route) 313 

35. San Bernardino to the East, via Barstow 317 

36. Oakland to San Jose 319 

37. Kings and Kern ili ver Canyons 320 

38. Lake Tahoe 327 

39. Yosemite Valley 332 

40. After Leaving California 3 14 

41. Coast Steamship Lines 346 

42. Railways of California 34 6 

Index 317 

Illustrations and Maps 347 



Introduction 



THE lure of California is the State itself. You will enjoy 
a tour within its boundaries; and v/hen the journey is com- 
pleted, whether by actually traversing its varied regions 
or by following in these pages the course described, you will 
be loth to say goodbye. Love of the free and open life of the 
country will grow upon you. 

A magnet which attracts the world, California contains 
every satisfying phase of climate and scenery to be found on 
the planet. Some liken the spell of California to the wile of 
the lotus; yet none may say where the lotus blooms — whether 
in the valley, on the mountainside, or in deep arroyo — by the 
sandy seashore or fringing peaceful inland lakes — among 
golden orange groves, in purpling vineyards, or beneath the 
lengthening shadows of sequoias. For the hundreds of thou- 
sands wiio each year are drawn hither by these charms, and 
for other thousands who are looking tovv^ard the Golden State, 
this book has been prepared. Commingling here and there a 
breath of the ancient romance with practical statistics dealing 
with present-day commercial and industrial development, the 
work is intended to be a complete guide to the features of pic- 
turesque beautj^ and unique interest which characterize the 
State. 

The history of California is articulate with records of heroic 
deeds. Its annals flow down to us in a continuous stream, 
freighted with tales of adventure of a once wild country. 
While yet the vast midland plains were haunted only by rov- 
ing bands of aborigines, California's valleys were graced by 
scenes of civilization and religious devotion. It is not an un- 
cultivated field to which you are invited. Here you will find 
many things new, many things ancient, historic, romantic, 
worthy of your notice. Fifty years after Columbus these 
shores were visited by the ships of Europe, and fiom those 
days to the present the attention of the world lias been di- 
verted hitherward Venerable and impressive even when in 
ruins, are the cloistered structures that mark from south to 
north, the progress of the Franciscans. California's mission 
towns are comparable to the cathederal towns of Europe more 
than anything else on the western continent. 



12 



Successive waves of population liave swept over these 
plains and mountains, contributing in changing types to a 
world of pageantry. There is no spot which is not doubly or 
triply enriched by elusive fragments of legend and fable. The 
characters in the columns of marchers have included the 
aboriginal tribes, and the pious padres of the missions, 
accompanied by the dominating Castilians and Catalans. In 
some restricted localities have been seen handfuls of the 
Czar's pioneers, contemporaneous with voyageurs and trap- 
pers of the Hudson Bay Company; tl'ere have been master 
traders from England and soldiers of fortune from other 




.,,.1 .'t'"'' ' ■'?.•'• 

iiitiiCtilllilSitil 



■;'l*«(iisuiiii^R! 

' •pj'iii.jiiiliH 
|JI||||!iilllll,j..f 





Los Angeles Court House and Hall of Records. 



climes, and finally the overwhelming influx of gold-diggers, and 
their successors. Now arrive the welcome tourists to reap the 
fruits of all their labors. 

These annals run back into the centuries. Juan Rodriguez 
Cabrillo, in 154.2, sailed along the coast of California. In 1579 
Sir Francis Drake, in the Golden Ilinde, explored this coast, 
and passing the Golden Gate without discovering it, stopped 
at Drake's Bay, while he refitted his ship. Here v/as celebrat- 
ed the first religious service ever held in the English language 
on American soil. Then came Sebastian Vizcaino, discoverer 
of Monterey Bay, in 1602-3. Settlement did not occur for many 



13 




as 
CQ 

0) 



C 
CO 



ns 
CO 



14 

years, lout the coast was being explored by chance voyagers 
as they passed to and from the Philippines. Spanish dominion 
— at once military and religious — came in with Don Caspar de 
Portola and Padre Junlpero Serra, as the master minds. Too 
little credit has been given to the dauntless spirits that in 
distant lands led these forces. 

Historically, events may be referred to the Spanish advent 
already mentioned, to the coming of the Gringo, the 
Bear Flag revolution, the unfurling of the Stars and 
Stripes, the discovery of gold, the inrush of adventurers, 
violence of law-breakers, swift reprisal at the hands of the 
vigilantes, the civil war times, and the stream of gold and sil- 
ver that flowed into the Nation's treasury from California and 
Nevada, the building of the railroads, and finally to the devel- 
opment of today. 

California has a wealth of musical geographical names, and 
for this a debt of gratitude is due to those subjects of Castile 
and Leon who lavished so many flowers of speech on our 
towns and villages — some now grown to cities. Witness Los 
Angeles, El Portal, Palo Alto, San Felician, Camulos, Los 
Olivos, Ventura, San Francisco, Del Rosa, Sacramento, Santa 
Margarita, Alameda, Sonora, Solano, Rio Vista, Yerba Buena, 



.-tg^SK^'* 







»' 3> •">^->j|S 







Monterey Coast Scene. 



15 




Site of Panama-California Exposition — San Diego, 1915. 



Arroyo Grande, Playa del Rey, Benito, Lagunitas, Capistrano, 
Santa Maria, San Bernardino, Loma Prieta, Peralta, Mariposa, 
Monterey, Montara, and many otliers, 

California has developed a school of architecture that is 
clearly characteristic, growing naturally out of the lines that 
were adopted in the mission buildings. The modifications that 



16 




"^"^^'tU^ 




The Beach at Santa Cruz. 

have been wrought bv modern ideals have made less ponder- 
ous the colonnades, and have lifted the arches until they are 
freed from the massive outlines of their Moorish originals. 
Some of the most beautiful public buildings in California are 
of this class of architecture, which is recognized as well 
adapted to structures of moderate height; particularly school- 
houses, libraries and public halls. California may be said to 
be the only State in the Union with an architecture which is 
unquestionably distinctive. 




Mission San Juan Bautista. 



17 




u i 1. 

4 r ^^ ^- It f 
r i !' 1: f: \l -■ 



t:.^ 



■ '^ mil 





M...^/ rr_^:y. 



! 



*^4f' 



irl-j^ ", 




Oakland's City Hall. 



IS 




Glimpse of Lake Tahoe. 



California inherited from the early Spanish settlers a le- 
gendary roadway called El Camino Real, sometimes referred to 
as the King's Highway. This served as the basis of a modern 
plan that has produced one of the best systems of roads in 
the United States. So great has been the development in this 
regard that an automobile recently made the run from Los 
Angeles to San Francisco in shorter time than the usual sched- 
ule of railroad trains between those cities. 

Bells made in imitation of those used at the old missions 
have been placed along the course of the ancient thorough- 
fare in some parts of the State. 

Along El Camino Real was founded a series of religious out- 
posts that gave to California a background of historical asso- 
ciations unexampled on the western continent. About the mis- 
sions and abroad in the State grew up institutions and customs 
which yield a wealth of local color — a mine delved in by 
writers for many years, but which appears to be inexhaustible. 
The more it is developed the richer it grows. It is the 
Mother Lode of poetry, art and romance of this occidental 



19 



land. Among those who have drawn copiously from California 
must he enrolled first Richard Henry Dana, who, in 1835, pro- 
duced a classic of Californiana in "Two Years Before the 
Mast." Others w^orthy of admittance to this company are 
Bret Harte, Mark Twain, Joaquin Miller, Charles Warren 
Stoddard, Dan Do Quille, Lieutenant George H. Derby, Am- 
brose Bierce, Arthur McEwen, Edward Rowland Sill, John 
Muir, John Swett, Galen Clark, Robert Louis Stevenson, John 
P. Young, Frank Norris, Edwin Markham, Helen Hunt Jack- 
son, Ina Coolbrith, Gertrude Atherton, George Sterling, Joseph 
T. Goodman, Gillett Burgess, Wallace Irwin, Will Irwin, 
Jack London, John Steven McGroarty, James Hopper, Philip 
Verrill Mighels, Charles K. Field, Richard Walton Tully, 
Eleanor Gates, Cora Older, Lillian Ferguson, Grace Hibbard, 
Miriam Michelson. Sam Davis, Robert H. Davis, Charles F. 
Lummis, Charles Frederick Holder, George Wharton James, 
Stevv'art Edward White, Peter B, Kyne, Bailey Millard, Charles 
Keeler, A. J. Waterhouse, George N. Lowe, Herman Whitaker. 
There are scores of other brilliant writers who hitherto have 
taken and who still take inspiration at this ancient but ever- 
renewing fountain. 




Feather River Canyon — On the Western Pacific. 



20 




21 

For the restoration and preservation of California's his- 
toric relics, mnch is clue to the California Landmarks League, 
an organization fostered by the Society of California 
Pioneers and by the Native Sons of the Gold'en West and the 
Native Daughters of the Golden West. 

"In America, most places look alike — except in California," 
said James Bryce. the eminent British diplomat, approving 
the surprising variety of picturesque objects, artificial as well 
as natural, to be met with at all points in this State. Each 
town and city has something individual, and in this book an 
effort is made to indicate what may best deserve the consid- 
eration of the visitor. Minor places, more remote from the 
track of travel, are dealt with as carefully as are the well- 
known centers of population. 

The topography of California is treated in detail in this 
work. The general features, which cannot be described under 
any particular route or heading, require some attention. In 
the center of the state is a great valley region — in reality one 
valley, but locally divided into the Sacramento Valley and the 
San Joaquin Valley. In productiveness this vast region rivals 
the best lands to be found in the most favored garden spots 
of the world. East of this valley are the Sierra Nevada Moun- 
tains — the highest in the United States. To the west is the 
Coast Range — actually a continuous chain of mountains, 
though in different sections of the country it has local names, 
such as the Santa Lucia Range, the Gabilan Range, the Mount 
Diablo Range, the Mount Hamilton Range, and the like. 
Throughout the coast region and in the Sierra Nevada Moun- 
tains are many fertile valleys at various elevations. This 
diversity of topography lends charm to travel, and at the 
same time has much to do with California's agricultural and 
horticultural prosperity. There are many rivers, bays and 
lakes, California's Inland water surface having a greater 
area than is covered by some of the States. Without doubt 
this feature adds to the delight of a tour of the State, There 
are forests of redwood in the Coast Range, and other trees in 
all the mountains. The real Big Trees grow only in the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains. 

Of all the States, California is second in size, having an 
area of 158,297 square miles, or 101.310,080 acres, of which 
156,092 square miles, or 99,898.880 acres, are land surface, and 
2,205 square miles, or 1,411,200 acres, are water surface. The 
coast line of this State on the Pacific Ocean is 1,200 miles in 
length. California is as large as all the New England States, 
New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware and Mary- 



22 




Mount Shasta. 



land combined. California is almost as large as the German 
empire. It is as long as Norway, and nearly as long as France 
and Spain together. The combined length of England and 
Scotland is only half the length of California. A recent writer 
points out that Caesar, in all his travels to enlarge the boun- 
daries of the known world and extend the Roman dominion, 
was never as far from home as is a resident of Needles when 
he goes to Crescent City. These figures are impressive, yet 
this great commonwealth, so admirable is the system of 
roads, may be traversed with greater ease than many of the 
smaller states. Railways extend in every direction, the large 
rivers and lakes bear commodious passenger boats, and good 
thoroughfares give access by public and private conveyance 
to all parts of California. 

Mark Twain puts at the front of one of his books a de- 
scription of the weather, to serve for the entire volume. In 
like manner, California's climate may be considered at the 
outset, because the conditions here are of prime interest to 
the tourist. It is sufficient to set forth the fact that climatic 



23 

conditions offer facilities for outdoor sports most of the year. 
Championsliip polo tournaments are held during Thanksgiv- 
ing season, as well as in the early spring and summer. Tennis 
is played every month of the year. The professional baseball 
season opens April 1 and continues to October 15. California 
has outdoor climate without compare, calling the tourist to 
healthful activity and enjoyment on the mountains, in the 
valleys, along the seashore and among the islands. 

As an indication of the wonderful clarity of California's 
atmosphere under favorable conditions, it may be mentioned 
that the late Professor George Davidson declared that while 
standing on Mount Diablo one bright day in springtime, he 
was able to descry Mount Shasta to the northward, and look- 
ing to the southeastward he saw looming above the uplands 
what he believed to be the mighty form of Mount Whitney. 

Gabriel d'Annunzio recently announced a new drama in 
which he promises to glorify the climate of California, amid 
a setting of golden west scenes of unusual realism and 
splendor. 

The people of California are light-hearted, and the spirit 
of pageantry enters into their daily life to an unusual degree. 
This tends to a multiplicity of fiestas and celebrations, so 
that the pleasure-seeker in this State may enjoy some new 
amusement event almost every week in the year. Some of the 
prominent entertainments of this character are afforded by 
the following-named cities. 

Alhambra — City's Anniversary Celebration; Berkeley — 
Spring Musical Festival in the Greek Theater, big football 
game between University of California and Stanford University 
teams every other year on California Field (on the University 
campus). University Charter Day, Commencement ceremo- 
nies, September aquatic festival at municipal wharf, under 
direction of the Big Brother movement of the Berkeley Elks; 
Bishop — Owens Valley Harvest Festival; Carmel-by-the-Sea — 
Historical pageant, Carmel Mission episode; Cloverdale — Cit- 
rus fair; Concord — Walnut festival; Crescent City — Water 
Carnival; El Centre — Imperial County Fair; Elmhurst — Au- 
tumn Carnival; Escondido — Grapevine Festival on Admission 
Day; Fresno — Raisin Festival, Fresno County Agricultural 
Association, Fresno Poultry and Pet Stock Association, San 
Joaquin Valley Land and Products Show; Hanford — Kings 
Kounty Karnival, Kings County Fair; Hayv/ard — Springtime 
Festival; Healdsburg — Harvest Home and Water Carnival on 
Russian River; Holtville — New Year's Day Fiesta; Imperial^ 
Automobile races; Los Gates— Flag Day; Los Angeles— Fiesta 



24 




de las Flores, County Fair, Southern California Land Show; 
Los Banos — May Day celebration; Mendocino City— Mendo- 
cino Fair; Monte Rio — Water Carnival; Monterey — Fra Juni- 
pero Serra Day; Mount Tamalpais — Mountain Forest Play; 
Napa— Napa County Poultry Association Exhibition; Oak- 
land — Landing of Columbus, Alameda County Poultry Show; 



25 




Oroville — Water Carnival and Orange Exposition; Pacific 
Grove — Lantern Festival; Palo Alto— Founders' Day, also 
University Commencement, etc., big football game with Uni- 
versity of California alternate years; Pasadena — Tournament 
of Roses; Petaluma — Poultry Show; Phoenix, Arizona — Aztec 
Sun Fete; Pleasanton — Alameda County Fair; Redlands — 



26 




State Capitol at Sacramento. 



Flower Show; Riverside — Riverside Poultry Breeders' Show; 
Sacramento — State Fair, Annual Poultry and Pigeon Show, 
Annual trap shooting tournament, Greater California Winter 
Products and Land Show; Saint Helena — Vintage Festival; 
Salinas — Big Week, California Rodeo Days; San Bernardino — 
National Orange Show; San Biiena Ventura — San Miguel Day; 
San Diego — Cabrillo Celebration, San Diego County Fair, San 
Diego Fanciers' Association Show; San Francisco — Portola 
Festival, Mechanics' Fair and Electrical Exposition, California 



27 

Land Show; San Gabriel — Mission Play, the Passion Play of 
California; San Jose — Blossom Festival, annual show of the 
Santa Clara Valley Poultry Association, Santa Clara County 
Fair; San Leandro — Annual Cherry Festival "When cherries 
are ripe": San Rafael — Marin County District Fair; Santa 
Clara^ — Religious drama at the University of Santa Clara; 
Santa Cruz — Floral Show and Orchid Festival, Santa Cruz 
Poultry Association Show; Santa Rosa — Rose Festival, Har- 
vest Festival; Santa Monica — Automobile races; Sebastopol — 




Bridal Veil Falls, Yosemlte Valley. 



28 




Oranges and Snow — Southern California. 



Gravenstein Apple Show; Stockton — San Joaquin Poultry 
Association; Truckee — Ice Carnival, with sleighing, skating 
and skeeing; Ukiah — Hops Festival; Watsonville — State Apple 
Show, a Festival of the Apple; Pajaro Valley Poultry Associa; 
tion Show; Willits — Mendocino County Fair; Vacaville — 
Fruit Carnival; Ventura — San Miguel Day; Woodland — Yolo 
County Fair and races. 

For the purpose of weaving these local entertainments 
into a continuous chain of festivals, the California Celebra- 
tions Committee has been formed. The object is to co- 
ordinate these events so that the tourist who desires to wit- 
ness each day some new phase of California life may be able 
to do so without loss of time and with the greatest possible 
convenience and at minimum expense. Under this plan the 
dates are to be arranged so that there shall be no clash, and 
each city or section shall be represented in one continuous 
program, that will take the visitor from one part of the State 



29 




A Santa Cruz Big Tree. 



ao 

to another, following an uninterrupted round of pleasing 
events. 

Annual district fairs are held in several of the counties 
of California. It is usual to have racing at these fairs. 

Annual bench shows are held in San Francisco, Oakland, 
Los Angeles, Sacramento, Fresno, Eureka, Pasadena and Santa 
Cruz. 

Field trials at Bakersfield every autumn attract entries 
from all pa'"ts of the State. 

Holidays in California are designated by statute as fol- 
lows: Every Sunday; January 1, New Year's Day; February 
12, Lincoln's Birthday; February 22, Washington's Birthday; 
Presidential primary election day, every fourth year preced- 
ing Presidential election; May 30, Memorial Day; July 4, In- 
dependence Day; First Monday in September, Labor Day; 
September primary election day, prior to general election; 
September 9, Admission Day; October 12, Discovery Day; 
Tuesday next succeeding first Monday in November in even 
numbered years, general election day; every day appointed 
by the President of the United States or the Governor of this 
State for a public fast, thanksgiving or holiday; December 
25, Christmas; every Saturday afternoon in the public offices 
of the State. Whenever a holiday Calls on Sunday, the follow- 
ing Monday is a legal holiday. 

California is the goal of the sportsman, almost every va- 
riety of game being found here. Hunting and fishing may be 
enjoyed at any time during the open season. 

California is fairly honeycombed with organizations that 
may be applied to by tourists for data on local affairs. Every 
prominent city and town has a Chamber of Conjnierce or 
Board of Trade that supplies printed matter free of charge, 
and most of the first-class newspapers respond to questions 
verbal or Avritten. A central body for the dissemination of 
state-wide information is the California Development Board, 
Union Ferry Station at the foot of Market street. San Fran- 
cisco. Another important organization is the California Cele- 
brations Committf.e, with headquarters at 590' Pacific Electric 
Building, Los Angeles. The Southern Pacific, the Santa Fe 
Railway, and the Western Pacific Railway have established 
information bureaus for the accommodation of the traveling 
public. 



31 

Visitors from more populous States will be struck by pe- 
culiarities of nomenclature in the West. It will be noticed 
that, though California has many important centers of pop- 
ulation, in some instances small communities which else- 
where would be called "towns," are here called cities. On 
the contrary, elevations that easterners would call "moun- 
tains," are "hills" in California, and the "rivers" of the East 
are here called "creeks," "arroyos," or "streams." 

But however strange to tourists the names of natural 
objects may seem to be, and though the fragments of a 
foreign tongue are perpetuated in the names of our cities, 
the whole world knows ihat California speaks the universal 
language of good will and friendship, — ^that all who come are 
welcome. The scenes here enjoyed will live in pleasent 
memories, with longings to return to this land of sunshine. 



32 




Map of the San Francisco Bay Region 



1 . San Francisco 



SAN FRANCISCO lies at the northern end of the penin- 
sula which reaches for thirty miles between the Pacific Ocean 
and the Bay of San Francisco. The metropolis of California, 
San Francisco is the largest city on the continent west of 
the Mississippi. It is the principal seaport on the Pacific 
Coast, owing its importance commercially to its strategic 
position, unexcelled harbor facilities and rich tributary re- 
gion. In the beauty of its location San Francisco is declared 
to be approached only by Constantinople and Rio de Janeiro. 

To the tourist and visitor, San Francisco is one of the 
most interesting of cities. Tt is cosmopolitan and yet it has 
a distinctive individuality of its own. To view adequately 
all of its attractions would require a fortnight, and a leisurely 
tourist may advantageously pass a month in trips through 
the city, its sister communities about the bay and the sur- 
rounding region; descriptions of these journeys will be found 
in this booK. San Francisco itself will interest the Easterner 
because it is typical of the West — its social and economic 
metropolis. Its public buildings, its civic center, its com- 
merce and shipping, its industries, its splendid beaches, 
parks and boulevards, business section, restaurants and cafes, 
hotels, theaters, libraries, museums, monuments, art galleries, 
recreation grounds, places of amusement, military establish- 
ments, residential districts, and above all the Panama Pacific 
International Exposition which will be held in 1915 — all these 
will attract and hold the visitor. 

San Francisco was the eleventh city in size in the United 
States by the census of 1910. at that time having 416,912 in- 
habitants. The population now is nearly 500,000. The city 
ranks fifth among the ports of the United Stales in imports; 
their value in 1912 was $62,744,188. Foreign exports by sea of 
domestic goods from San Francisco amounted to $54,707,850 
in 1912. There were 1,795 manufacturing establishments in 
1909, the value of their products totaling $132,929,000. TTie 
building contracts for 1912, exclusive of municipal structures, 
amounted to $26,269,006. The area of the city and county of 
San Francisco is 46^/^ square miles. There are 32 parks and 
squares, with a total area of 1,398.6 acres; 110 public schools 
and 26 private schools; 360 miles of paved streets, 315 miles 
of sewers and 278 miles of street railway lines. There are 
38 religious denominations, represented by 208 churches. 
There are 37 banks and nine branch establishments, with a 



total capital, surplus and undivided profits of $80,727,948. The 
savings deposits in 1912 amounted to $189,714,076. 

The climate of San Francisco is bracing. Cool in summer, 
but never excessively cold in winter, the weather is uniformly- 
invigorating. The lowest temperature ever recorded by the 
United States Weather Bureau was 29 degrees above zero. 
The average winter temperature is 51 degrees above; the 
average summer temperature is 59 degrees above. The city 
has more hours of sunshine yearly than Boston, New York, 
Philadelphia, Chicago. P'.ttsburg or St. Louis, while the 
latitude is that of Granada, Palermo and Athens. Snow has 
fallen but six times in the city's history. The healthfulness 
of San Francisco is due in a large degree to the sweeping 
winds from the ocean and the excellent drainage resulting 
from the many hills and the sandy sub-soil. 

The history of San Fr?ncisco begins with 1769, when the 
expedition of Caspar de Portola, governor of California, dis- 
covered San Francisco Bay and camped near the site of the 
present city. In 1775 the ship "San Carlos," commanded by 
Don Juan Manuel de Ayala, entered the harbor, the first 
vessel to sail the waters of the bay, Ayala explored and 
charted the harbor for some days, returning to Monterey with 
an account of the region. In 1776 an expedition arrived 
from Monterey, and the Presidio was established; on October 
9 of that year the Mission San Francisco d'Asis (Mission 
Dolores) was founded (see p. 44). About the presidio and 
mission small settlements grew up. In 1835 a trading post 
was established on Yerba Buena cove, which formerly in- 
dented the bay shore, extending up to what is now Montgom- 
ery street, between Jackson and Washington streets. Most 
of the peninsula was then covered with brush and drifting 
sand. The name first given to this settlement was Yerba 
Buena (in Spanish signifying "good herb"), but in 1847 the 
nam.e San Franciwco was substituted. There were a number 
of Americans here before occupation of California by the 
United States, and with the discovery of gold the city grew 
rapidly. In ,1850 the population was 34,000, and on April 
15 of that year San Francisco was incorporated as a town. 
The rough element which was attracted to the city in the gold 
excitement gave much trouble in the early days, and in 1851 
the citizens formed a Vigilance Committee, which took con- 
trol of the city's affairs. Again in 1856 the Vigilantes assumed 
command for several months. The commercial importance of 
San Francisco was early recognized, and it became the most 
populous city of California. In 1S80 there were 233,595 in- 
habitants; in 1890, 298,997; in 1900, 342,782. On April 18, 
1906, a severe earthquake shook the city and the business 



35 

section and part of the residence section were destroyed in 
one of the greatest fires oi history. The fire was the result 
of the disruption of the water mains by the earthquake at a 
point where they crossed several miles of marshy land. The 
new business section, which rapidly arose from the ruins of 
the old, is modern in every respect, its freshness, brightness 
and cleanliness making it attractive to visitors. Despite the 
setback caused by the fire, San Francisco has progressed 
steadily and the population has increased, until it now num- 
bers almost half a million. The year 1915 will mark one of 
the greatest achievements in the history of San Fl'ancisco^ 
when the gates of the Panama Pacific Exposition are thrown 
open to the vrorld. 

The oldest and most thickly settled part of San Francisco 
faces the bay, though of recent years the city has been ex- 
panding to the west and south. TTie district immediately at 
the edge of the Golden Gate is occupied by the Presidio Mil- 
itary Reservation. There are a number of districts in the 
citv which are more or less arbitrary in their boundaries, 
yet which are well recognized locally. The eastern part of 
the city is divided into two distinct portions, known as North 
of Market and South of Market. The Mission District is the 
western part of the latter division, extending beyond the 
present end of Market street; it received its name because 
this territory was once part of the property of the Mission 
Dolores. The Potrero lies beyond Bryant street and extends 
to South San Francisco. The Potrero was formerly the cattle 
farm of the Mission Dolores, as signified by its Spanish name. 
The Western Addition lies between Larkin street and Golden 
Gate Park. The Riclimond District lies to north of the Park, 
and the Sunset District to the south of it. 

San Francisco is essentially a maritime city, and by its 
situation is especially adapted to carrying on an extensive 
commerce. The Bay of San Francisco is the largest land- 
locked harbor in the world. On its shores are the cities of 
San Francisco, Oakland, Emeryville, Berkeley, Albany, Ala- 
meda, Richmond, Vallejo, Sausalito and San Jose, besides 
many smaller communities. The bay is almost 70 miles long 
and from 4 to 10 miles wide. T'he area is about 450 square 
miles and the length of shore line is 231 miles. The magni- 
tude of the harbor facilities may be judged by the fact that 
all the navies and merchant ships of the world could easily 
find anchorage together in the bay. The upper or eastern 
part of San Francisco bay is divided into two smaller bodies 
of water, called San Pablo bay and Suisun bay. Into the 
latter flow the combined waters of the Sacramento and San 
Joaquin rivers. The entrance to San Francisco bay is the 



36 

Golden Gate. This strait, lying to the north of San 
Francisco, is one mile across at its narrowest part, 
between Fort Point and Lime Point. It is said to have 
been named by General John C. Fremont. 

San Francisco's waterfront and docks extend along the 
bay shore north and south from the Ferry building at the 
foot of Market street. Ships and sailors from all quarters of 
the globe are seen here, and the flags of ell nations fiy from 
the mastheads. There are usually battleships of the Amer- 
ican navy lying in the stream, and these may be visited, 
the boat fare being fifty cents (or "four bits," in Western 
phrase). The Sea Wall extends from the Ferry building to 
Taylor street, and to one interested in shipping it is well 
worth visiting (lake Kearny street car to North Beach and 
walk to the Ferry). San Francisco's commerce is expanding 
rapidly and the awakening of the Orient, the development 
of American dependencies in the Pacific and the opening of 
the Panama Canal will vastly increase the city's maritime 
importance. For the accommodation of the augmented traffic, 
five new piers south of the Ferry building and seven to the 
north are planned, with five ferry slips added. Work on 
several of these piers is now going on. Among the steamship 
lines which have docks along the waterfront are the Pacific 
Navigation Company, Pacific Coast Steamship Company, 
North Pacific Steamship Company, Monticello Steamship 
Company, Kosmos Line, Oceanic Steamship Company, Amer- 
ican-Hawaiian Steamship Company, Arrow Line, Alaska Pa- 
cific, Independent Steamship Company, Union Steamship 
Company, Western Pacific, Matson Navigation Company, 
Portland Steamship Company, San Francisco & Portland Line, 
Pacific Mail, Napa Transportation Company, Toyo Kisen 
Kaisha (Oriental Steamship Company), Higgins Steamship 
Line, Creek Route, Olson & Mahony Company, and the various 
lines of river steamers. Tlie transport docks, owned by the 
government, are at Fort Mason. The thoroughfare loading 
along the waterfront is known as The Embarcadero. 

The principal business thoroughfare of San Francisco is 
Market street, extending in a gradual ascent from the bay al- 
most to Twin Peaks. The street runs in a southwesterly 
direction from the ferries, and almost throughout its entire 
length is flanked by modern business structures of imposing 
architecture. 

At the foot of Market street is the Ferry Building (Union 
Ferry Depot), with its high clock-tower, a distinctive feature 




Section of San Francisco's Down-Town District. 



of San Francisco's skyline from the bay. The building was 
erected in 1896 at a cost of $1,000',000; it is constructed of 
gray sandstone with marble panels and wainscots. The clock 
in the tower is 23 1/^ feet in diameter. During civic celebra- 
tions the clock and tov.er are outlined with thousands of 
incandescent electric lights, presenting a brilliant display at 
night. The building is used as a terminal by the Southern 
Pacific, Santa Fe, Western Pacific, Northwestern Pacific rail- 
roads and the Key Route lines. The building contains all 
the conveniences required by the traveling public. In the 
main room on the second floor (reached by central staircases) 
great public receptions and flower shows have been held. 
From here easy staircases lead to the displays of the Cal- 
ifornia Development Board and the State Mining Bureau (both 
admission free), where there are extensive and instructive 
exhibits of the agricultural, horticultural and mineral products 
of California. Free lectures on the state's resources are given 
here every afternoon from two to four o'clock; the talks are 
illustrated with lantern slides. Between the stairways lead- 
ing to these exhibits is the entrance to a commodious ladies' 
resting room. On the second floor of the Ferry Building also 
g,re the offices of the California State Harbor Commission 
and the Sta;;e Horticultural Commissioner. The Ferry Build- 
ing is reached direct by the following street-car lines: T'urk 
and Eddy, McAllister, Hayes, Haight, Market, Valencia, Guer- 
rero, Mission and Twenty-fourth, Ingleside, Cemeteries. Ocean 
View, Kentucky, Howard, Folsom, Harrison, Sacramento cable 
and the municipal Geary-street road. 

Along Market street there are many points of interest to 
the tourist. Among the larger office buildings on Market 
street are the Balboa, Monadnock, Phelan, Flood, Call, 
Chronicle. Examiner, Commercial, Pacific, Westbank, Hewes, 
Western Metropolis Bank, Crocker National Bank, Humboldt 
Savings Bank, Grant and Mechanics buildings; there are also 
theaters, hotels and department stores. Temple-like stone 
structures of remarkable design are the homes of the Union 
Trust and the Savings Union Bank and Trust Companies at 
Market street and Grant avenue, the Hibernia Savings Bank 
at Market ind McAllister. The Flood Building, at the north- 
east corner of Powell and Market, is the largest office build- 
ing west of Chicago; it contains 900 rooms. The Pacific 
Building, at Fourth street, is the largest armored concrete 
office strunure in the world. On the south side of 
Market at the corner of New Montgomery is the Palace 
Hotel, a luxurious and famous hostelry on the site of the "old 
Palace." celebrated in the early history of San Francisco. 



39 

At the junction of Bush and Battery streets with Market, 
opposite First street, is the Donahue Fountain. The heroic 
bronze group in the center is tlie work of Douglas Tilden. 
This is one of the finest examples of plastic art in the city. 
Tlie sratuaiy group represents four artisans at work punch- 
ing rivet holes in a piece of ship plate. The Donahue Monu- 
ment is dedicated to Mechonics, by James Mervyn Donahue 
m memory of his father. Peter Donahue, one of the founders 
of the Union Iron Works. 

One of the busiest corners of the city is at the intersection 
of Kearny. Third and Market streets. Here is the so-called 
Nevyspaper Row, Vvith the large buildings housing the "Call," 
"Chronicle" and "Examiner," San Francisco's leading morning 
newspapers. The flowei' markets, so popular with all visitors 
to the city, are at the mtersection of Geary and Market 
streets, extending along Kearny street. At this corner is 
Lotta's Fouritain, one of the city's familiar objects. It was 
r-resented to the municipality in 1876 by the actress, Lotta 
Crabtree, one of San Francisco's favorites in the early days. 
Luisa Tetrazzini sang at Lotta's Fountain on Christmas Eve, 
1910, to a crowd of 100,000 people. 

At the junction of Market street with Turk and Mason is 
the Native Sons Monument, commemorating the admission 
of California tc the Union as a state, September 9, 1850. It 
is the gift to the city of James D. Phelan, former mayor of 
San Francisco, and dedicated to the Native Sons of the Golden 
West; it was unveiled on Admission Day, 1897. The monu- 
ment is the work of Douglas Tilden, the Californian sculptor. 
Farther out Market street is Marshall Square, at the entrance 
to the old City Hall site. Here is the James Lick Monument 
to the Pioneers, typifying the growth of the state; a heroic 
figure of California surmounts the group. The sculptor was 
Frank Happersberger, a native Californian. Before the mon- 
nment stands a bronze cannon captured by American troops 
from the Spaniards at Santiago de Cuba in 1898. 

Marshall Square and the old City Hall tite will form part 
of the Civic Center, for which $8,000,000 has been voted. 
Around the central plaza will be grouped one of the most 
notable assemblages of public buildings in America. The 
City Hall, to cost $4,000,000, will occupy the western side. 
South of the plaza an auditorium, capable of holding 14,009 
people, is being erected by the Panama-Pacific Exposition 
Company at a cost of $1,000,000. This will be turned over 
to the municipality after 1915. On other sides of the park 



EXPLANATIONS 

STRCCT CAR LINES SHOWN ^""» 
OIRtCTION OF CARS INDICATCO Br ARROW 




42 

will be the Municipal Opera House, provided for by public 
subscription, $1,000,000 having been given for this purpose, 
and the $1,000,000 Public Library. It is expected also 
that a Museum of Art and a State building v/ill be erected 
at the Civic Center. All the buildings Mill be architecturally 
impressive and bnilt along classic lines. The completion of 
the City Hall by .fanuary 1, 1915, is expected. 

The Volunteers Monument is situated at Market street 
and Van Ness avenue. This graceful and inspiring statuary 
group was erected by the citizens of San Francisco in honor 
of the California volunteers who served in the Spanish- 
American war of 1898. 

On the Civic Center site al present is the Hall of Records, 
a domed building constructed along the same lines as the 
City Hall, to which it was formerly joined by an arcade. Near 
here, also, is the temporary Public Library, on Hayes street 
near Van Ness avenue; there are six branches, situated at 
1207 Valencia street. Pond and Sixteenth streets, 254 Fourth 
avenue, 1547 Powell street, 24 Sacramento street and Page 
street near Cole. These are open daily from 9 a. m. to 9 p. m. 
The Sutro Library, consisting of 125,000 volumes collected by 
Adolph Sutro, former m.ayor of San Francisco, has been made 
a part of the State Library by gift of his heirs, and a building 
will be erected in San Francisco to hoase this collection. The 
Mechanics-Mercantile Library has a collection of over 50,000 
volumes in its handsome and commodious new building at 57 
Post street. The French Library is the largest collection of 
foreign books in the city, the Ligtie Nationale Francaise hav- 
ing over 11,000 volumes at their building, 126 Post street. 
There are also small libraries of Hungarian, Polish, Swedish, 
Japanese and German books in the city. Besides the non- 
technical libraries there are large collections of law and 
medical books at various institutions. The Levi Cooper 
Lane Medical Library of Medicine and Surgery is on Sacra- 
mento and Webster streets, opposite the Cooper Medical Col- 
lege. It is declared to be the finest medical library west of 
Chicago; the collection numbers over 40,000 volumes. TTiis 
institution and the Medical College are affiliated with Stan- 
ford University. At the temporary City Hall, 1231 Market 
street, besides the offices of the city officials there is the 
San Francisco Law Library, consisting of 26,500 volumes. 

The United States Mint is of unusual interest to tourists. 
This structure, at the corner of Fifth and Mission streets, 
was erected in 1874. It is the second largest in the country, 
being exceeded in size only by the Philadelphia mint. In ad- 
dition to minting money for the United States, the coin for 



43 

the Philippine Islands is produced here, as well as that of 
minor American republics, such as Salvador. There is a 
large and interesting oxhibit of ancient coins in the office. 
The hours for visitors are from 9 to 11:30 a. m. and from 1 to 
2:30 p. m., excepting Sundays and holidays. The processes 
of manufacture are explained by courteous attendants, who 
escort visitors through the various departments. 

The Postoffice is one of the handsomest government build- 
ings in the country, costing with its grounds $5, 000, 000. It is 
fc^ituated at the corner of Mission and Seventh streets (take 
Market or Missicn street cars). Tt is built of white granite, 
decorated within with costly marbles, polished woods, mo- 
saics, stucco work and wrought metal. Besides the postoffice 
departments this building contains the Federal courts. The 
Custom House is situated on Battery street between Wash- 
ington and Jackson. It is a handsome white granite structure 
begun in 1906 and completed during the following five years. 
The cost was $1,500,000. Here are the headquarters of the 
principal customs officials, as well as the offices of many of 
the Federal administrative bureaus, including the Immigra- 
tion Service, Geological Survey, Coast Geodetic Stirvey, Army 
Corps of Engineers, Naval Engineers. United States Land 
Office, Lighthouse Service, Bureati of Fisheries, Internal Rev- 
enue Service, Steamboat Inspection Service, Revenue Cutter 
Service, Rivers and Harbors Service, Naval Officers, Federal 
Bureati of Mines, Bureau of Statistics of the Department of 
Agriculture and others. 

There are 208 churches in. San Fi^ancisco, representing 38 
denominations. There are a great number of handsome 
church structures. T'he Howard Street Methodist Church, 
situated at Howard and Harriet streets, is called The Church 
of the Stranger, because of its situation near the hotel dis- 
trict. The Trinity Episcopal Church is a massive stone build- 
ing at the corner of Bush and Gough streets; St. Luke's is a 
new church of the same denomination at the corner of Van 
Ness avenue and Clay street. The Grace Episcopal Pro- 
Cathedral will occupy the block between California and Sac- 
ramento streets at the summit of Nob Hill, and when com- 
pleted its tower will be one of the landmarks of the city. St. 
Mary's Roman Catholic Cathedral is an imposing structure 
at the corner of Van Ness avenue and O'Farrell street. Old 
St. Mary's, once the cathedral church, is one of the historic 
houses of worship in the city. The Church of St. Ignatius is 
a handsome building of brick and steel being erected by the 
Jesuits on the summit of the Fulton-street hill, a commanding 
situation rising above the western portion of the city. The 
First Congregational is a down-town church, situated on the 



44 

corner of Mason and Post streets; the congregation is soon 
to build a fine new structure on or near the present site. 
The First Methodist church, at Clay and Larkin streets, is one 
of the oldest religious organizations in San Francisco. The 
First Baptist church is located on the corner of Waller and 
Octavia streets, near Market. The First Presbyterian church 
is a new edifice at Van Ness avenue and Sacramento street. 
Calvary Presbyterian is an imposing stone church at the 
corner of Fillmore and Jackson streets. The First Unitarian 
church, on Geary and Franklin streets, is another fine struc- 
ture. TTie First Church of Christ, Scientist, is at California 
and Franklin streets. Trinity Cathedral, at Van Ness avenue 
and Green street, is one of the four Greek Catholic cathedrals 
in the United States. The Congregation Emanu-el (414 
Sutter) and Temple Sherith Israel (California and Webster) 
are two handsome Jewish synagogues. These are only a few 
of the houses of worship of the city; a fuller list may be 
found in the Saturday daily newspapers or in the city di- 
rectory. 

The oldest church in the city is, of course, the Mission 
Dolores (San Francisco d'Asis). The mission is now in the 
heart of the city at Sixteenth and Dolores streets (reached 
by Guerrero, Eighteenth and Park, Fillmore and Sixteenth or 
Mission and Richmond car lines). This was the sixth mission 
founded by the Franciscans in California; it was formally ded- 
icated October 9, 1776, by Father Palou. The name Nuestra 
Senora de los Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows), was first given 
to a lagoon, beside which the buildings of the mission were 
erected; this lagoon, now filled in, once occupied the tract be- 
tween Seventeenth, Nineteenth, Valencia and Howard streets. 
Mission Dolores was never very prosperous; the total number 
of baptisms was 6,883. Tlie mission establishment originally 
consisted of a number of adobe structures, with tiled roofs; 
at present only the church is standing. The cornerstone was 
laid and the church dedicated in 1782. The architecture is 
somewhat different from that of the majority of the mis- 
sions, being a combination of the Moorish, Mission and Cor- 
inthian styles. The facade is adorned with four massive pil- 
lars; arched doorway, with four niches above, in which hang 
the bells; the roof is tiled. The interior is practically un- 
changed, although tlie main altar is modern. The two side 
altars are decorated with groups of saints; the empty niches 
in the walls were formerly occupied by images. The altar 
decorations were imported from Spain and Mexico. The 
rough-hewn rafters are painted in diamond-shaped patterns of 
red, white, yellow and blue. The roof timbers of the mission 
are held together as of old by rawhide thongs, which were 



45 

used in place of nails. The walls at the end of the chapel, 
hack of the main altar are elaborately carved and painted in 
dull red and gold; all this is the work of the Indian converts. 
In the sacristy may be seen many interesting relics of the old 
mission days. The grave of Father Carroll, a man well- 
beloved by the early Franciscans, is in the sanctuary. The 
little graveyard at the side of the church is the resting place 
of over 2,000 bodies. Only a few of the graves are marked. 
The most notable monument is that of Don Luis Antonio Ar- 
guello, the first Mexican governor of California (1822-1825). 

About the mission in the early days there grew up a com- 
munity distinct from that at the Presidio and the Pueblo of 
Yerba Buena. In 1802 there were 800 Indians living in the 
vicinity. Though the original settlements have grown to- 
gether, the Mission District still retains a certain individuality. 
It ranks as a residence section, with its own business cer- 
ter (mainly along Mission and Valencia streets), its own the- 
aters, banks, shops and churches. This section is known 
locally as "the Mission," and its climate is the mildest in the 
city. Mission Park, occupying part of the reclaimed Laguna 
de los Dolores, is situated between Church and Dolores, 
Eighteenth and Twentieth streets. Besides lawns and shrub- 
bery, the park contains athletic fields. The Mission High 
School faces the park. 

Above the Mission District rise the Twin Peaks (reached 
by Castro and Eighteenth and Park line). TTiese hills are 
the highest in the city, and from here there is a magnificent 
view over the city, bay and surrounding country. Twin Peaks 
are situated almost at the head of Market street. It is 
planned to cut a tunnel through Twin Peaks and extend this 
thoroughfare to the ocean. 

Chinatown, the Chinese quarter of San Francisco, always 
holds much interest foi visitors. The district is bounded by 
Dupont, Stockton, California and Pacific streets and the Chi- 
nese population is close to 15,0'00. It is the largest Chinese 
quarter in America. The main thoroughfare is along Dupont 
street, a continuation of Grant avenue. Here are the bazaars 
and shops containing the varied artistic wares of the Orient. 
The Chinese retain their native costumes and manners; the 
community is largely under the control of the council of the 
"Six Companies," a powerful commercial organization, though 
this government is not recognized by the American authori- 
ties. 

Many of the buildings are typically Chinese in architec- 
ture; before the fire of 1906 this was not the case, but the 
destruction of the old structures enabled the owners to erect 




HOTEL REGENTi 



COLdlillALHOTELlil PgOTinl^^ls 



15 



SULTAN BATHS 



NtON SQUARE ^ I fP ] B Lf* ^ 
HOT| L I 5B j. |WHI TE HOUSE 



O'rARIUUX 



COLUMBIA THEATRE 




GRANDWTEL 



Retail Shopping District, San Francisco. 



47 

new ones of more Oriental design. By day the stranger can 
safely visit Chinatown, but at night (the most interesting 
lime) a guide is needed, and may be engaged at any promi- 
neni hotel. The parties of visitors are conducted into the 
Chinese Joss House (temple), the opium dens and dwelling 
houses. T'ho tailors, barbers and cigar-makers and other Chi- 
nese artisans at work are interesting, their methods differing 
considerably from those of the Occident. The Chinese mu- 
sicians with their crude and strange-sounding instruments 
should be heard. The curio stores, drug shops, markets and 
restaurants of Chinatown contain many things to attract the 
visitor. 

On the southern border of Chinatown is Portsmouth 
Square, bounded by Kearny, Clay and Washington streets 
(take Kearny-street cars). One of the historic spots of San 
Francisco, it was once the center of the city life and known as 
the Plaza. Here the American flag was raised over the city, 
July S, 1846, by Captain Montgomery of the sloop-of-war 
"Portsmouth." Portsmouth Square is most famous, however, 
as the favorite haunt of Robert Louis Stevenson when a resi- 
dent of San Francisco in 1879. In the park is an artistic 
monument to Stevenson, unveiled in 1897, surmounted by a 
golden galleon in full sail, the "Hispaniola" of "Treasure 
Island." The inscription is a quotation from Stevenson's 
"Christmas Sermon," beginning, "To be honest, to be kind." 
Portsmouth Square contained the first custom house in San 
Francisco, and in the "days of gold" a hotel was built on the 
square at a cost of $30,000, which rented for $15,000 a month. 
Here the Vigilantes of the early days met to punish law- 
breakers. The new Hall of Justice, one of the finest of the 
city's public buildings, is on Kearny street, opposite the 
square; the uppe: story is the city prison. 

North of Portsmouth Square is the "Latin Quarter," gen- 
erally known as "Little Italy." Telegraph Hill rises in the 
midst of this section (take Kearny-street cars to Union 
street). From here is afforded a fine view of the city, bay and 
surrounding country. T'he hill received its name from the 
tiag-telegraph station established on its top, which in. early 
times informed the city below of the entrance of ships into 
the Golden Gate. The hill reaches almost to the waterfront. 
Here, at North Beach, is Fislnerman's Wharf, the picturesque 
landing-place of the Italian fishermen (take Powell or 
Kearny-street cars, northbound). About 175 craft find an- 
chorage here, but the famous lateen sails of the Genoese are 
disappearing, supplanted by the gasoline motor. All the men 
employed, fishermen, boat-builders and blacksmiths, are Ital- 
ian, still retaining the costume, manners and speech of their 



48 

native country. The best day to visit Fishermen's Wharf is 
Thursday, when the biggest catches of rock-cod, smelt, striped 
bass and crabs are brought from Drake's bay and other fish- 
ing grounds; but the vicinity is always full of activity and 
interest. 

West of Telegraph Hill is Russian Hill, vrhich received ita 
name from the Russian cemetery on its upper slopes in the 
days before the American occupation (take Ninth and Polk 
street line). From the summit at Broadway and Jones street 
there is a fine view over the city and bay. Russian Hill has 
long been distinguished by the presence of a colony of 
artists and literary workers. The houses on the summit were 
saved by strenuous efforts from the fire of 1006. 

Southwest of Telegraph Hill and southeast of Russian 
Hill is Nob Hill, occupying the area from California to Wash- 
ington and from Powell to Leavenworth streets. The hill is 
reached by three lines cf cable-driven cars running on Powell 
street, Sacramento street and California street. The cable- 
car is a San Francisco invention (originated by the late A. 
S. Hallidie) and is of great value in making accessible the 
city's many hills. On Nob hill were residences of the early 
millionaires of the Comstock mines and the Central Pacific 
railroad, such as Governor (afterwards Senator) Leland Stan- 
ford, Mark Hopkins, C. P. Huntington, the Crockers, James 
Flood and others. The great Fairmont Hotel, occupying an en- 
tire block, is a notable landmark of the city. It is one of the 
most beautiful hotels in the world in architecture and in 
situation. Opposite the Fairmont on Powell street is the 
University Club. At Bush and Powell are the Family Club 
and the handsome building of the Elks. The Pacific-Union 
Club occupies the old Flood residence, opposite the Fairmont 
Hotel. Directly west of Nob Hill is the Pacific Heigiits dis- 
trict, a residential section of wealthy San Franciscans. On 
the site of the Mark Hopkins home (corner of California and 
Mason) is the San Francisco Institute of Art (open daily, ex- 
cept Sunday, 9 to 5; admission 25 cents, free on Tuesdays 
and Fridays). 

Another famous hill is Rincon Hill, south of Market and 
east of Third street. In the early days this was the fashion- 
able residence district of the city, but its slory began to wane 
before 1870. The home of General William Tecumseh Sher- 
man was at Harrison and Fremont streets, and that of Gen- 
eral Halleck, built in 1849, directly opposite. Governor Le- 
land Stanford also had a mansion here. Gertrude Atherton 
was born on Rincon Hill, aud in its early days Bret Harte and 
Mark Twain were entertained there. TTie hill is divided by 



49 

a deep cut through which Second street passes, and will soon 
be levelled entirely to make room for warehouses and other 
commercial structures. Rincon Hill got its name (in Span- 
ish signifying "corner") from a spur which once jutted into 
the bay before this part of the waterfront was filled in. 

The public parks of San Francisco number thirty-two in 
all. They are scattered throughout the city, most of them 
are im]>roved and form attractive beauty-spots in the business 
and residential districts. The following is a list of the prin- 
cipal parks and squares: Alamo Square (Steiner, Scott, 
Hayes and Fulton streets), Alta Plaza (Steiner, Scott, Clay 
and Jackson), Bernal Park (Folsom and Alabama, south of 
Precita avenue), Buena Vista Park (south of Haight, between 
Broderick and Central avenue), Columbia Park (Folsom, Har- 
bison, Sixth and Seventh), Duboce Park (between Steiner and 
Scott, north of Duboce avenue), Franklin Square (Bryant, 
Hampshire, Sixteenth and Seventeenth), Garfield Square (Har- 
rison, Treat avenue, Twenty-fifth and Twenty-sixth streets), 
Golden Gate Park (between Fulton and H streets, Stanyan to 
the ocean), Hamilton Square (Steiner, Scott, Geary and Post), 
Holly Park (southwest of Bernal Heights, surrounded by 
Holly Park avenue), Jefferson Square (Gough, Laguna, Golden 
Gate avenue and Eddy), Lafayette Park (Gough, Laguna, Sac- 
ramenio and Washington), Lincoln Park (on Point Lobos), 
Lobos Square (Chestnut, Bay, Laguna and Webster), Marshall 
Square (Market to City Hall avenue, opposite Eighth), Mis- 
sion Park (Church, Dolores, Eighteenth and Twentieth), 
Mountain Lake Park (north from Lake, between Eighth and 
Fourteenth avenues). Pioneer Park (Montgomery, Kearny» 
Filbert and Greenwich), Portsmouth Square (Clay, Washing- 
ton, Kearny and Brenham Place), South Park (Bryant, Braii- 
nan, Second and Third), Sunnyside Park (Stanyan, Twin 
Peaks avenue. Thirty-second and Thirty-third streets). Union 
Square (Geary, Post, Stockton and Powell) and Washington 
Park (Union, Filbert, Stockton, Montgomery avenue and 
Powell). 

Union Square is in the center of the business district, a 
delightful breathing-space in the midst of the thronged streets. 
In the center is the monument in commemoration of the vic- 
tory of Admiral Dewey in Manila Bay, May 1, 1898. President 
McKinley broke ground for the Dewey monument in 1901; it 
was dedicated in 1903 by President Roosevelt. The monument 
was designed by Newton Tharp; the figure of Victory sur- 
mounting the tall column is the work of Robert Aitkin, Fac- 
ing Union Square, on Powell street, is the St. Francis Hotel, 
one of the finest of San Francisco. With the completion of 



50 

the fourth wing, now being added, there will be one thousand 
rooms and suites. It will then be the largest hotel west of 
New York. 

Many of the San Francisco parks are in commanding 
situations upon the hills. From these there are excellent 
views over the city, hills and bay; among the most accessible 
are Alta Plaza, Alamo Square, Jefferson Square (Eddy street 
side), Lafayette Square (on Clay street hill) and Pioneer 
Park (on Telegraph Hill). As its Spanish name ("good view") 
indicates, there is a superb outlook over the city from Buena 
Vista Park, situated at an elevation of 578 feet above sea 
level; this is one of the most finely improved parks of the 
city. Holly Park is near Bernal Heights, where there is a 
colossal Statue of Liberty. Recreation Park, San Francisco's 
baseball grounds, is situated at Fifteenth and Valencia 
streets (take Valencia. Guerrero or Eighteenth and Park car 
lines). Baseball is played here every afternoon during the 
season, except Mondays and Thursdays; games commence 
at 3 o'clock except on Saturday and Sunday, w^hen they begin 
at 2:30 p. m. San Francisco's baseball is furnished by the 
fast Pacific Coast League (Class AA). 

The largest park of San Francisco is Golden Gate Park (see 
map), which the tourist should not fail to visit. Half a day 
at least should be spent at this attractive spot. A delightful 
way to pass a day is to visit the park in the morning and 
the Ocean Beach in the afternoon, though an entire day is 
not too much to devote to either place. All trolley cars reach 
or transfer to Golden Gate Park. Those lines which take the 
visitor to the park direct are the Turk and Eddy, Hayes, 
Ellis and Ocean, McAllister, Haight, Hayes and Ellis, 
Eighteenth and Park and the Geary street municipal line. 

Golden Gate Park consists of 1013 acres, most of the 
tract in a high state of cultivation, with artificial lakes and 
lakelets scattered over its surface.- In 1870, when the reclam- 
ation of this area was commenced, it was a desolate expanse 
of sand-hills, as indeed was once almost the entire peninsula 
of San Francisco. Golden Gate Park is declared by travelers 
to be one of the finest municipal playgrounds in the world; 
it is the third largest in size. It fronts on the ocean, but 
extends far into the city; a continuation, one block wide, 
known as the Panhandle, reaches several blocks through the 
residence districts. It is four miles from the Panhandle en- 
trance to the Pacific Ocean, The park has seventeen miles 
of finely improved driveways, bordered by trees and shrub- 
bery brought from all parts of the globe. The beds of richly 
colored flowers which adorn the lawns are in bloom through- 
out the year, in winter as in summer. 



51 

In the Conservatory are many of the rarer exotic plants, 
especially orchids, begonias, palms and ferns in great variety. 
Near the Conservatory, to the east, is the Arizona Garden. 
The Bamboo Grove and Australian Tea-trees are also of in- 
terest. The great Aviary, an inclosed space in part sur- 
rounded by glass, contains a collection of rare birds; more 
than a thousand canaries live here amid natural surround- 
ings, and the sundown song of this myriad of warblers is a 
pleasing feature of the Aviary. 

The park contains a large collection of animals, kept in 
paddocks and pens throughout its area. The Deer Park is. 
not far west of the Children's Playground, and besides sev- 
eral varieties of deer, contains a number of antelope. The 
elk, numbering about fifty, are in an enclosure west of Stow 
lake and north of the South Drive. The enclosures contain- 
ing the kangaroos, brought from Australia, and the moose, 
brought from Alaska, are near the Deer Park. There are 
three Buffalo Paddocks — one between the Aviary and the 
deer, a second near the quarry and another west of the Chain 
of Lakes. The enclosure containing several species of bear 
is near the Buffalo Paddock. Other animals are in different 
parts of the park. Large birds not in the aviary, but having 
special enclosures, are the ostriches, peacocks and pheasants. 

The Cliildrens Playground, near the Haight-street en- 
trance, contains swings, slides, teeters and a merry-go-round 
for the amusement of the little ones. They also enjoy rides 
on the goats and donkeys. Nearby, in the handsome brown- 
stone building donated to the children by the late William 
Sharon, is a restaurant; in the ba3ement tea, chocolate and 
coffee, sandwiches, ice cream and cake are served on trays, 
to be carried to any part of the park where the party wishes 
to eat luncheon. 

The Temple of Music and Concert Valley are opposite the 
Museum. Here a band of fifty pieces plays on Sundays and 
holidays in the open air, drawing crowds of music-lovers. The 
music stand, the gift of the late Glaus Spreckels, is con- 
structed of Colusa sandstone. In front of it is a plantation 
containing one tree from each state in the Union. On Oc- 
tober 19, 1896, commemorating the 115th anniversary of 
the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, there were planted 
here, in the shape of a bended bow 450 feet in length, trees 
from each of the original thirteen states; this was the be- 
ginning of the grove. Pennsylvania is represented by a cedar 
from the entrenchments at Valley Forge, Virginia by a tree 
from the grave of Thomas Jefferson and New Jersey by a 
linden from Washington's headquarters. Near the Temple 




Eastern End of Golden Gate Park. 



of Music is the Japanese Tea Garde?!, a picturesque bit of old 
Japan transplanted to the Occident. Admission to the garden 
is free; tea and Japanese rice wafers may be procured in 
the Japanese hoiuse. 

The Museum has many exhibits of great value and interest 
and is one cf the most complete in the West. It is open daily 
from 10 a. ni. to 4 p. m.; on Sundays and holidays, from 10 a. 
m. to 5 p. m. Admission free. In 1912 it was visited by 
826,863 people. T'he nucleus of the collections here was 
formed in 1894, as the result of the Midwinter Fair, a success- 
ful exposition held by San Francisco following the Chicago 
World's Fair. The museum building, of Egyptian architecture, 
was one of the exposition structures; it is now overcrowded 
with the varied collections which it contains. The Art 
Gallery includes many paintings by acknowledged masters; 
an interesting exhibit is the collection of paintings by Cal- 
ifornia artists, in one of the rooms of the gallery. In the 
Statuary Hall are a number of fine pieces of sculpture; prob- 
ably the most noteworthy is W. W. Story's "Saul."' The upper 
story of the museum is devoted to a large and valuable Nat- 
ural History collection, attractively displayed. On the 
first floor are a Pioneer Room containing many reminders 
of early days in California, a Colonial exhibit, a remarkable 
collection of Indian baskets, a Napoleon Room containing 
many valuable relics of the great French emperor (including 
one of his throne-chairs), a large exhibit of coins and medals 
illustrating various periods of history, a collection of arms 
and armor, and many specimens relating to mineralogy, 
archaeology, ethnology and ceramics. 

The Stadium occupies thirty acres to the south of Spreckels 
Lake, and is enclosed by a sloping terrace which will accom- 
modate 60,000 spectators. The grandstand, to be completed 
for the Panama-Pacific Exposition, will hold 40,000 more. 
This is the largest athletic field of its kind in America. There 
are six football fields and a basket-ball court within the 
Stadium, as well as the running track, A trotting track, sixty 
feet wide, encircles the terrace. In various parts of the park 
there are tennis courts, croquet grounds, a Scotch bowling 
green and ten baseball diamonds. 

There are a number of monuments and statuary groups 
in Golden Gate Park of considerable artistic merit. Tlia 
McKinley Monument is on Baker street, at the entrance to 
the Panhandle; the mmuiment is the work of Robert Aitkin, 
The Francis Scott Key Monument is to the author of "T'he 
Star-Spangled Banner,'' and is the work of W. W. Story; it 
was given to the city by James Lick. This is the tallest mon- 
ument in the park, the height being 51 feet. The Goethe- 



54 

Schiller Monument (near the Museum) is a replica of that be- 
fore the theater at Weimar, Germany, Thomas Starr King 
Monument commemorates the man who had much to do with 
saving Califjrnia to the Union in 1861-5. The Serra monument 
honors Padre Junipero Serra, the founder of Franciscan mis- 
sions in California; it was erected in 1907 by the Native Sons 
of the Golden West. The other monuments are to President 
Ulysses S. Grant, President James A. Garfield, Major-General 
Henry W. Hallock, and Robert Burns. The Ball player, a 
bronze figure, the work of Douglas Tilden, is between the 
Museum and the Observatory. 

The lakes of Golden Gate Park are all artificial, but none 
the less beautiful. T'he largest is Stow Lake, encircling 
Strawberry Hill, with many pretty islets. Here there is a 
boat-house, and rowing on the lake is a popular amusement. 
The picturesque Huntington Palls furnish the water for Stow 
Lake. Strawberry Hill, reached by means of a bridge across 
the lake, is covered with pine and cypress. A broad drive- 
way winds about it to the summit, 428 feet above sea-level. 
From the Observatory on Strawberry Hill a magnificent pan- 
orama presents itself. The view extends over the park and 
the city, with the Golden Gate and Mount Tamalpais to the 
north. To (he northeast, on a clear day, Mount Diablo 
can be seen rising behind the Berkeley Hills. Not far froni 
Stow Lake boat-house is the Joaquin Miller cabin, a relic of 
the beloved "Poet of the Sierras." 

West of Stow l^ake is the Chain of Lakes, encircled by a 
picturesque driveway. Spreckels Lake, north of the Stadium, 
covers an area of about seven acres. Lloyd Lake and Metson 
Lake are small bodies of water northwest of Stow Lake. On 
the border of Lloyd I.,ake is a marble portal, once the en- 
trance to the Tov/ne residence on Nob Hill, destroyed by the 
fire of 1906. Lake Alvord is in the extreme eastern part of 
the park. 

At the summit of a small hill north of Stow Lake is an im- 
mense Celtic cross, known as the "Prayer Book Cross." This 
landmark, visible from many parts of the city, was erected 
in commemoration of the first English church service held in 
America, at Drake's Bay, a few miles north of this spot, June 
24, 1579 (see index: Drake's Bay). The capstone of the cross 
is 40' feet above the ground. The cross was erected by George 
William Cnilds of Philadelphia. 

Not far distant, though outside the borders of the park, is 
another cross, on the top of Lone Mountain. Tliis cross was 
erected in memory of the early Spanish missionaries in San 
Francisco. Lone Mountain, in reality a hill, is surrounded 
by cemeteries. To the north is Laurel Hill Cemetery, to the 



55 

south the Masonic Cemetery, io the west Odd Fellows' Ceme- 
tery and to the east Calvary (Roman Catholic) Cemetery. 
Burials witbin the city limits are no longer permitted. 

To the south of Golden Gate Park, situated on command- 
ing heights, at Third and Parnassus avenues, are the Affil- 
iated Colleges (take Hayes-street car). In these imposing 
buildings are housed the medical, dental and pharmaceutical 
departments of the University of California. The central 
structure contains the hospital attached to the medical 
school. The western building is the Museum of Anthropology, 
one of the four great institutions of its kind in the United 
States. There are about 80,000 specimens relating to "man 
and his works" in all ages and all parts of the world. The 
collections are valued at several million dollars; more than 
$1,000,000 was donated to the museum at its foundation by 
Mrs. Phoebe Apperson Hearst and she has since added man> 
valuable collections. These are remarkable exhibits ot 
Egyptian, Grecian and Peruvian remains, as well as specimens 
relating to the manners and customs of the American Indians. 
The museum is open to the public, except on Mondays, from 
10 a. m.. to 5 p. m. Popular lectures, illustrated by objects in 
the collections, are given. every Sunday afternoon. 

TTie Ocean Beach rivals Golden Gate Park in its popularity 
with the people of San Francisco and visitors. It can be 
reached by Sutter and California, Sutter and Clement, Mc- 
Allister, Ellis and Ocean and the Geary-stieet municipal 
cars; the best scenic route is that cf the Sutter-street line 
marked "Cliff," which passes along the southern shore of 
the Golden Gate. 

Tlie most famous feature of the beach is the Cliff House. 
The present structure, erected in 1909, is the fourth of this 
name standing on the present site, situated on the edge of a 
precipice high above the surf. From the dining-room windows^ 
the visitor looks out over the boundless expanse of the blue 
Pacific. The terrace on the face of the cliff (open to the 
public) affords an excellent view of the famous Seal Rocks, 
some hundred yards distant. Here hundreds of sea-lions 
(Zalophus Calif ornianus) disport among the breakers or sun 
themselves on the rocks. 

Above the Cliff House to the north are the Sutro Baths and 
Museum. This structure covers nea':'ly three acres; the baths 
are the largest indoor swimming tanks in the world. The area 
devoted to swimming purposes is 153 feat by 285 feet, the 
tanks varying in depth and temperature. They arc sur- 
rounded by an amphitheater that will seat 8,000 people. The 
Museum, in the promenades and galleries, contains notable 




UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION GROUN! 



collections. There . are relics from ancient Egypt and from 
Mexico, the latter inclading Aztec pottery, curios from the 
South Sea Islands, China, Japan, Syria, Alaska, British Co- 
lumbia and other parts of the world. The collection of mar- 
ine shells is one of the finest in America. TTiere is a large 
and interesting natural liistorj' exhibit. The Sutro Baths and 
Museum are open in summer from 7 a. m. to 11 p. m. ; in win- 
ter from 7 a. m. to 6 p. m.; admission, 10 cents (children, 5 
cents), with bathing privileges extra. 

Across from Sutro Baths is the entrance to Sutro Gardens 
(Sutro Heights). Though these are private grounds, they al- 
ways have been open to the public. These beautiful gardens 
with their i)alm-lined avenues, their brilliant flowers Eind rare 
trees, have been created where once were only barren sand- 
hills. From the Parapet, west of the Sutro residence, there 
is a magnificent view over the ocean and up and down the 
coast; on a clear day the Farallones, thirty miles distant, can 
be made out. Descending the rock i^tairway to the right, the 



57 







fi^'-i'^^ 



'A" ^o.>k 












w!iS;\ 


j 










1 


^N 


SAN FRANCISCO, 


1 9 I 5 


f 
f 


1 










x^ ,*, 



Balcony is reached. From here there are superb marine 
vistas. 

The Beach is not much used for bathing', but wading in the 
surf is an amusement which is popular with children and 
grown-ups alike. In the rear of the beach is the Great High- 
way, a magnificent boulevard extending along the ocean. 
The two great Dutch windmilis near the highway furnish 
water for the lakes and irrigation of Golden Gate Park. They 
lap an underground supply of fresh water, though the wells 
are near the ocean. The southern windmill is the largest in 
the world, furnishing 40.000' gallons an hour; the northern 
mill has a pumping capacity of 30,000 gallons an hour. 

On the ocean at the northwest corner of Golden Gate Park 
is the United States Life Saving Station. Across the boule- 
vard from the park is the Beach Chalet, a resting place and 
restaurant. Facing the Great Highway, on the borders of 
the park, is the little ship Gjoa, the stout sloop in which Cap- 
tain Rcald Amundsen made the northwest passage from the 



58 

Atlantic to the Pacific, in 1908. Tlie vessel was presented to 
the city by the intrepid explorer. 

To the north of the Cliff House is Point Lobos, so named 
from the seals, called by the Spanish lobos marines ("sea 
wolves"). A trail leads around the rocky bluffs to Land's End, 
a promontory extending out from the mainland. This is a 
popular place for picnics; it is reached by the Cliff House 
(Suiter) car line. Watching the ships enter the Golden Gate 
is one of the amusements here. The rock with the lighthouse 
'^in the Golden Gate is Mile Rock. Beyond, on the Marin 
shore, is Point Bonita (signifying in Spanish, "pretty point") 
on which is situated Fort Barry. Above Land's End is Lincoln 
Park, occupying 150 acres, to be joined in 1915 with the Pre- 
sidio and Ocean Beach by a scenic boulevard. In Lincoln 
Park will be erected in 1915 a gigantic stone tower, which 
will serve as a landmark to ships approaching the coast. At 
the northeast corner of Lincoln Park is Fort Miley, one of the 
outer fortifications of the Golden Gate. East of the park is 
Baker's Beach, a curved strip of sand on the border of the 
Presidio. 

The Presidio is a point of unusual interest in San Fran- 
cisco. It occupies the territory immediately south of the 
Golden Gate, and is the largest military reservation within 
city limits in the United States. Its area is 1,542 acres, most 
of it heavily wooded with pine and eucalyptus. It is reached 
directly by the Sixteenth and Fillmore, Sutter and Jackson 
and the Presidio and Ferries (Union street) lines. The Pre- 
sidio was founded in 1776 by Juan Bautista Anza, who led an 
expedition overland from Sonora, Mexico, for this purpose; 
it was at the Presidio that the first permanent settlement 
was made within what is now San Francisco, though the Mis- 
sion was established soon after. Though a government res- 
ervation, the Presidio ranks almost as one of San Francisco's 
parks, since most parts of it are open to the public. Cameras 
are not allowed. The views over the Golden Gate to be ob- 
tained from many parts of the grounds, the attractive walks 
and drives and the military reviews all make the Presidio 
popular with visitors. A boulevard a mile in length, known 
as the Presidio Parkway, connects the reservation with 
Golden Gate Park; it extends north and south between 13th 
and 14th avenues. The north shore at the Presidio runs out 
in a long, narrow tongue of land called Fort Point. At the 
end of the point is Fort Winfield Scott, an old brick coast de- 
fense begun in 1854, replacing the Spanish Fort Blanco. It 
is an interesting relic of early fortification and is equipped 
with old-style armament. A pass is required lor admittance; 



59 

this is obtained from ilie commaader of the Presidio. Op- 
])Osite Fort Scott, on tlie Marin county side of the Golden Gate, 
is Lime Point, with Fort Baker at its tip. Above it, on a 
shoulder of the hills 49o feet above the water, is Battery 
Spencer. This is the highest land battery in existence and 
is one of the most formidable of the defenses of the Golden 
Gate. Tho Parade Ground, Officers' Quarters, Presidio Bar- 
racks, Marine Hospital and National Cemetery (where rest 
many of the nation's heroes) are all within the Presidio res- 
ervation. Its northeastern corner will be part of the exposi- 
tion grounds in 1915; here will be the United States Govern- 
ment exhibits. 

The main grcunds of the Panama-Pacific International Ex- 
position are along the bay shore immediately south of the Pre- 
sidio, in the district knov/n as Harbor View. (See map.) 
Here will be held from February 20 to December 4, 1915, the 
greatest exposition the world has known. T'he total outlay 
will exceed $50,000,000; in the number and Importance of 
exhibits it will surpass previous expositions, and the artistic 
conception of the plans, together with the natural beauty of 
the site, wall make it particularly memorable. 

The exposition site comprises a tract of approximately 
625 acres, situated in a natural basin open toward the bay 
and surrounded by low hills. It has a frontage of almost 
three miles along the water. The general arrangement of 
the buildings may be seen in the accompanying plan. There 
will be thirteen main exhibition palaces; in addition to the 
Festival Hall, these Mill be devoted to fine arts, education, 
manufactures, varied industries, machinery, liberal arts, hor- 
ticulture, transportation, mines and metallurgy, automobiles 
r.nd agriculture. Besides these, there will be the government 
exhibit, the buildings of foreign countries and those of the 
States. Fully fifty acres of the Fair Grounds will be taken 
up with the gardens, presenting a magnificent horticultural 
display. The North Garden or Esplanade fronting the water 
is to be known as The Marina, and through it will be the 
principal thoroughfare. This will be bounded at its eastern 
extremity by the Exposition Ferry Building (where visitors 
direct from Oakland, Berkeley, Alameda and the other bay 
cities and river points will land directly at the Exposition) 
and on the western extremity by the California Counties 
Building. 

At the Panama-Pacific International Exposition the world 
will celebrate the opening of the Panama Canal, and the 
magnificence of the celebration will be commensurate with 
the gigantic engineering feat which it commemorates. Un- 



60 „ 

der the direction of the Panama-Pacific International Exposi- 
tion Company, of which Charles C. Moore is the president, 
the work has steadily progressed and the exposition will be 
ready well before the opening day. Conventions, national 
and international gatherings held under the auspices of the 
various orders and conclaves of learned societies will be held 
in San Francisco in 1915 and add to the entertaining and in- 
structive features of the exposition. The Panama-Pacific Ex- 
position will call visitors from every part of the globe to 
attend the world's greatest fair and also to travel through the 
world's greatest wonderland for tourists — California. 

On the eastern border of the exposition grounds is Fort 
Mason, the residence of the commanding officer of the De- 
partment of California. It has extensive and well-kept 
grounds, from v/hich there is a superb view over the bay and 
Golden Gate. The home of General John C. Fremont was 
once here. The Transportation Docks, the only ones owned 
by the government in the country, are along the bay at Fort 
Mason. 'I'his region is known as Black Point. Fort Mason 
is reached by the Polk, O'Farrell, Hyde and Jones street 
lines. 

Another point of military interest in San Francisco, besides 
the fortifications already mentioned, is the State Armory, at 
the corner of Fourteenth and Mission streets. This is de- 
fended by bastions and is equipped with batteries of the 
latest type disappearing guns. At the Union Iron Works on 
the Central Basin (take Kentucky-street car line) have been 
built some of the most famous ships of the American navy. 
The battleship "Oregon" was constructed here, as was the 
"Olympia," Admiral Dewey's flagship at the battle of Manila 
Bay. Vessels built by the Union Iron Works for the Amer- 
ican navy include the battleships Oregon, Wisconsin and 
Ohio; the armored cruisers California and South Dakota; the 
protected cruisers Charleston, San Francisco, Olym.pia, Mil- 
waukee and Tacoina; the monitors Monterey and Wyoming; 
the gunboats Wheeling and Marietta; the destroyers Farra- 
gut, Paul Jones, Perry and Preble, and the submarines Gram- 
pus, Pike and "F 2," with four others now in course of con- 
struction. The Japanese cruiser Chitose was also built here. 
Peter and James Donahue founded the Union Iron Works in 
1849. The plant was recently purchased by the Bethlehem 
Steel Corporation. 

There are over 1,300' hotels, apartment houses and lodging 
houses in San Francisco, of which over 90 per cent are new. 
San Fiancisco claims better and larger accommodations for 
visitors than any city on the continent except New York. 



61 

Among the larger hotels are: Argonaut, B. P. $1 up; Arling- 
ton; Baldwin, E. P. $1 up; Bellevue, A. P. $4 up, E. P. $2 up; 
Cadillac, A. P. $3 up, E. P. $1 up; Colonial, A. P. $3 up, E. P. 
SI. 50 up; Continental, E. P. $1 up; Dale, E. P. $1 up; Dorches- 
ter, A. P. $2.50 up, E. P. $1 up; Fairmont (see advertising 
pages), E. P. $2.50 up; Gloster, E. P. $1 up; Golden West, E. 
P. $1 up; Grand Central, E. P. $1 up; Grand, E. P. $1 up; 
Grant, E. P. $1.50 up; Granada, A. P. $3 up, E. P. $1.50 up; 
Herald, E. P. $1 up; Herbert's Bachelor Hotel, B. P. $1 up; 
Holland, E. P. $1 up; Jefferson, A. P. $2.50, B. P. $1; Manx 
(see advertising pages), E. P. $1.50 up; Majestic, A. P. $3 up; 
Normandie, A). P. $3.50 up, E. P. $1.50 up; Palace (see adver- 
iljising pages), E. P. $2.50 up; Richelieu, A. P. $4 up; St. 
Francis (see advertising pages), E. P. $2 up; St. James, A. 
P. $2, E. P. $.75 up; Stanford, E. P. $1 up; Stewart, A. P. $3 
up, E. P. $1.50 up; Sutter (see advertising pages), $1.50 up; 
Tallac, E. P. $1 up; Terminal, $1 up; Turpin (see advertising 
pages), E. P. $1 up; Union Square, E. P. $1 up; Van Dorn, E. 
P. $1 up; Wiltshire, E. P. $1 up. 

San Francisco's cafes and restaurants are no less famous 
than her hotels. The cosmopolitan character of the city lends 
a variety and excellence to the bills of fare of the tourist iii 
San Francisco which are seldom equalled elsewhere. The 
foreign restaurants represent practically every part of the 
globe — they are French, Italian, Spanish, Mexican, Greek, 
German, Chinese, Japanese and Turkish. Orchestras play 
regularly at all the larger restaurants. The big hotels have 
dining and grill rooms. 

The main shopping district of the city has Market street 
as its center. San Francisco's stores excel in many respects 
those of larger American cities, especially in the richness and 
variety of their wares. There are many immense retail es- 
tablishments and everything has been done by the merchants 
to make shopping in San Francisco pleasant and advan- 
tageous. 

The principal theaters of San Francisco are the Columbia 
(Geary street, near Mason), Cort (Ellis near Marl;et), Savoy 
(McAllister street, near Market), Tivoli Opera House (Eddy 
street, near Market), Valencia (Valencia and Fourteenth 
streets). The three principal vaudeville theaters are the 
Orpheum (O'Farrell street, between Stockton and Powell), 
Pantages (.Market street, opposite Mason), and Empress 
(Market street between Fifth and Sixth), There are a great 
number of moving-picture theaters i)i the down-town district. 

The clubs of San Francisco are numerous, many of them 
occupying handsome buildings. All the fraternal orders are 
represe.nted. The Young Men's Christian Association, Young 



62 

Women's Christian Association, Women's Christian Temper- 
ance Union and Young Men's Hebrew Association have head- 
quarters in the city. There are the usual patriotic societies 
and various state societies, including the Native Sons of the 
Golden West and the Native Daughters of the Golden West. 
Among the leading clubs are the Bohemian Club (Post and 
Taylor streets), California Camera Club (Commercial Build- 
ing), Commercial Club (Merchants Exchange Building), Com- 
monwealth Club, Concordia Club (1142 Van Ness avenue). 
Family Club (corner of Bush and Powell streets), Olympic 
Club (Post street, near Taylor), Pacific-Union Club (opposite 
the Fairmont Hotel), Press Club (Sutter and Powell streets), 
Scottish Thistle Club (Scottish Hall, 121 Larkin street). So- 
ciety of California Pioneers (Pioneer Building, Fourth street, 
near Market), Southern Club (California street near Stockton), 
Union League Chib (corner of O'Farrell and Powell streets), 
University Club (on Powell street, opposite Fairmont Hotel), 
University of California Club (212 Stockton street). Among 
the leading Women's Clubs are the California Club, Laurel 
Hall Club, Association of Collegiate Alumnae, Mills Club, 
Tokalon Club, San Francisco Colony of New England W^omen, 
Cercle de I'Union, Channing AuxiliaTy, Century Club, Town, 
and Country Club, Women's Press Association, Council of 
Jewish Women, Fiancesca Club, Papyras Club, Cap and Bells 
Club, Daughters of the Revolution, Daughters of the Confed- 
eracy, Society of the Mayllower, Association of Colonial 
Dames. The new German House, at the corner of Turk and 
Polk streets, is the headquarters of those of German descent, 
and it is planned to make it the center of German art and 
culture on the Pacific Coast. The San Francisco Turn Verein 
is situated on Sutter street, between Broderick and Devis- 
adero. 

There are numerous facilities for sight-seeing in San Fran- 
cisco, which are especially useful to those having only a lim- 
ited time to visit the city. The Sight-Seeing Car operated 
along the lines of the United Railroads leaves the Ferry 
Building every day at 10 a. m. and 2 p. m. The tour includes 
admission to the Sutro Baths and Museum; the time taken by 
the trip is 3i^ hours. Sight-Seeing Automobiles, operated by 
the Pacific Sight-Seeing Company, start every day from the 
Call Building, corner of Market and Third streets, at 10 a. m. 
and 2 p. m. The trips include visits to Golden Gate Park and 
the Ocean Beach, the Presidio and Pacific Heights. The fare 
is $1; each trip takes up about 2M: hours. A Chinatown Trip 
starts in the evening from the office of the Peck-Judah Com- 
pany (687 Market street), with whom reservations should be 
made; patrons at the various hotels will be called for. 



63 

The free Information Bureaus of the Southern Pacific Com- 
pany at 884 Market street and the Ferry Building, the Califor- 
nia Development Board at the Ferry Building, and the Peck- 
Judah Company (687 Market street) give information con- 
cerning San Francisco and the state, and supply literature de- 
scribing their resources and attractions. The Chamber of 
Commerce has neadquarters in the Merchants' Exchange 
Building, 431 California street; inquiries from visitors re- 
ceive prompt and courteous attention. 

There are a large number of side trips from San Francisco. 
The cities on the eastern shore of the bay (Oakland, Berkeley, 
Alameda and Richmond) are reached by ferry from the foot 
of Market street. The traveler should not fail to visit these 
communities; they are described at length in the next section. 
The Key Trolley Trip (operated by the Key Route) is a de- 
lightful tour through Oakland, Alameda, Berkeley, Piedmont 
and Fruitvale. The trip takes up seven hours and the route 
covers 68 miles of territory; the fare is $1. The trips down 
the peninsula into San Mateo county are described In Route 
3 of this book. Popular journeys to the northward include 
the Triangle Trip of the Northwestern Pacific Railway and 
the Napa Valley Route, described in other parts of this work 
(consult index). 

The islands in San Francisco Bay are interesting to visit- 
ers, but a permit is required, as they are government military 
reservations. Aicatraz Island, near the Golden Gate, is the 
United States military prison. The Spanish called this island , 
Isla de Alcatraces (Tslaud of the Pelicans), from which came 
the present name. A permit to visitors may be obtained from 
the depot quartermaster at 1086 North Point street. Here also 
permission to visit Angel Island may be had. This large 
island, near the Marin shore, contains a recruiting station, 
a discharge camp, an immigration station, quarantine station 
and the army post, Fort McDowell. Angel Island was called 
by the Spaniards Isla de los Angeles. On Verba Buena Island 
(often called Goat Island) is the government naval training 
school, which is seen from the ferry boats. 

A line of the Southern Pacific, known as the Loop Service, 
runs from Third Street Depot to Ocean View (6) and thence 
across into San Mateo Countj; to Daly City (1), where numer- 
ous prize-fights have been held, and Colma (2). Beyond Colma 
the line passes the Cemeteries to Baden (2) and Tanforan (2) 
and to San Bruno (1). From liere the Loop Service train runs 
inward through South Francisco (2), Visitacion (3) and Bay 
Shore (1) to the Third Street Depot (5). 

Two short journeys which should be taken by the visitor 
in San Francisco are (a) the Mount Tanialpais trip and (b) 
the Ocean Shore trip. 



(a) Mount Tamalpais Trip 



For the Mount Tamalpais trip the traveler takes the 
Northwestern Pacific ferry from San Francisco, passing Alca- 
traz Island and the Golden Gate and reaching 3AUSALIT0, a 
pretty residence city situated on tree-covered heights, over- 
looking Richardson's Bay. On the bay are moored many 
pleasure craft and yachts, Sausalito had a population of 2,383 
in 1910. (Holly Oaks Hotel, A. P. $2.50 up.) From here the 
route runs north through a suburban residence section along 
Richardson's Bay to Mill Valley Junction, and thence north- 
west to MILL VALLEY. (The Abbey Hotel.) This attractive 
residence tovvU, "the little Switzerland," is built upon the foot- 
hills of Mount Tamalpais (population in 1910, 2,551). On Mill 
Creek, which flows through the town, is the old saw mill 
which gave the valley its name. The road is through beauti- 
ful redwoods and the romantic old structure is only a few 
minutes' walk from the center of the town. The massive tim- 
bers are in a state of excellent preservation and part of the 
water-wheel remains, though the mill was built in 1832. Far- 
ther up the creek are The Cascades, which are pretty, though 
insignificant in size. 

Above Mill Valley towers Mount Tamalpais, a peak of vol- 
canic origin. The name of the mountain (pronounced Tam- 
al-pi-as) means in Spanish "country of the Tamals," the latter 
being a tribe of Indians who formerly inhabited this region, 
giving their name also to Tomales Bay. The summit of Tam- 
alpais is 2608 feet above sea level and the view from here is 
justly one of the most famous in the world. The mountain 
may be ascended from Mill Valley by the Mount Tamalpais 
Railway, or one may climb along the track, or by trail. The 
trail is clearly marked all the way from Mill Valley, most of 
the way through chaparral. The last part of the trail, up the 
"hog-back," is very steep and covered with loose rocks, which 
make walking difficult. 

TTie Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railway, a standard broad- 
gauge railroad, ascends the mountain by what is undoubtedly 
the "crookedest road in the world." The distance traveled is 
8 1-5 miles, v/ith an ascent of 2500 feet, and in this distance 
there are no less than 281 curves. The railway was built in 
1896 and is tamous among the scenic roads of the world. It 
is not a cog road and there are no steep inclines, the greatest 
grade being 7 degrees. The panorama unfolded as the train 
rises is impressive and ever-changing. 



65 

About half-way up the mountain, on a broad southern 
shoulder, is the "Double Bow Knot," Avhere the track of the 
railroad parallels itself five times within a distance of about 
300 feet, forming, as the name denotes, an almost perfect 
"Double Bow Knot." The fact of overcoming the grades in 
such a short distance and by such an ingenious way has 
caused the "Double Bow Knot" on Mount Tamalpais to be 
pronounced one of the oddities of railroad engineering feats. 
On the road are crossed deep-cut canyons in the mountain 
side filled with redwoods, madronas, oaks and laurels. 

The view from the summit of Mount Tamalpais is wonder- 
ful and instructive, as the country below is laid out like a 
map. The entire bay region with its cities and towns is be- 
fore the observer. The view extends far out over the Pacific 
and ships approaching San Francisco are first sighted from 
the marine observatory on the highest part of the mountain. 
Mount St. Helena, 56 miles to the north, is plainly discernible. 
On a clear day Mt. Shasta, nearly three miles high and 300 
miles away, may be made out, and the Sierra Nevada Moun- 
tains, 155 miles distant, are easily seen. To the east is Mt. 
Diablo, and Mt. Hamilton to the south. The Santa Cruz Moun- 
tains are beyond, with dark Loma Prieta, over 50 miles away, 
the most prominent peak. A level walk has been constructed 
around the summit of Tamalpais and by means of "locating 
tubes" all of these peaKs and many other points of interest 
may be easily found. Near the summit is the Tamalpais 
Tavern, the terminus of the railroad. (Rooms, $1 up; meals 
a la carte). 

From the "Double Bow Knot" on the Mount Tamalpais 
Scenic Railroad, a branch runs into the Muir Woods, set aside 
as a national monument in 1908. These woods were named 
after John Muir, the celebrated California naturalist. The 
park is about 295 acres in extent. Three-fourths of the trees 
are redwoods (sequoia sempervirens), many of them ranging 
in height from 20'0 to 300 feet. TTie terminus of the railroad 
is Muir Inn, situated on a knoll overlooking the canyon in 
which the woods are situated. 



(b) Ocean Shore Trip 



The Ocean Shore Railroad runs for 40 miles down the 
coast by a line of great scenic beauty. The road is an en- 
gineering wonder, many difficulties of construction having 
been surmounted by the builders. The trip starts from the 
depot at Twelfth and Mission streets, San Francisco, passes 
by Islais Creek and the market gardens of the city, to Daly 
City {TV2) and thence by beautiful Lake Merced (2 miles long) 



66 

with its wooded shores, its numerous islets and its delightfully 
blue waters. It was on the shores of this lake that the famous 
duel was fought between Judge David S. Terry and Senator 
David C. Broderick, in which the lattsr was mortally wounded, 
September 11, 1859. Running through Spring Valley, the train 
comes out on the Pacific Ocean in a region of rugged pictur- 
esqueness, passing Mussel Rock (4), and Edgemar (1) to 
SAL ADA (1), where there is a broad bathing beach between 
the ocean and a natural salt water lake, Laguna Salada. 
(Hotel Salada, $1.50 up.) From here the route extends 
through Brighton (ly^) and Vallemar (1) to Rockaway Beach 
(1). At this place are large amusement concessions. After 
passing here, the route enters the fertile San Pedro Valley, 
reaching Tobin fl^/^), the shipping point of the valley. 
Though only three miles long by half a mile v/ide, every foot 
of its highly productive soil is under cultivation. Its produce 
is to be found on the tables of epicures the world over. The 
principal delicacy that thrives in this little valley is the arti- 
choke, of which hundreds of carloads are shipped yearly to 
the ma'^kets of New York, London and the Continent. Leaving 
Tobin, the railroad is built on great cliffs for several miles 
around Pedro Mountain, exhibiting many feats of engineering. 
Far below the breakers dash with tremendous force against 
the cliffs. Here is passed Point San Pedro, a great rock of 
many-colored strata, presenting a strange and beautiful picture. 
Then comes the only tunnel cf the line, which is broad and has 
a double track bored through four hundred feet of solid rock, 
and after traversing for some distance the rolling foothills 
the train reaches MONTARA (5), a beach resort. Nestling 
in the hills, less than a mile from the beach, is the modern 
and cosy Montara Inn. From Montara is reached Farallone 
(1/4). The bathing beach here is excellent and there is also 
good fishing from the rocks. The government lighthouse and 
signal station is located at this point. Mussel and abalone 
beds of great extent are along this part of the coast. 

Next in the line of travel is MOSS BEACH (1), another 
popular beach resort. There are to be obtained here many 
unique specimens of marine moss and other sea growths. 
Surf and still-water bathing and fishing add to the appeal of 
Moss Beach as a recreation ground. There is also a pretty 
park. From Moss Beach, the line runs through PRINCETON- 
BY-THE-SEA (2), on the northern shore of beautiful Half 
Moon Bay. Nearby is Pillar Point, sighted in 1585 by Captain 
Francisco de Gali, a Spanish navigator. Portola passed here 
on his northern march to San Francisco, Otcober 30, 1769. 

After leaving Princeton the traveller reaches GRANADA 
(1), situated on a gently sloping hillside overlooking the bay. 



67 

Ftom Granada the line runs past Miramar {V2), where there 
is a long pleasure pier 'extending into the ocean, to HALF 
MOON. (Occidental Hotel, $2.) This quaint old place was 
settled early in the history of the State and was long known 
as Spanishtown. It is now a growing residence city. From 
here the route continues through Arleto Park (1-2) and Fair 
Haven (2) to PURISIMA (2), another old settlement, located 
in the green canyon of Purisima Creek. This stream, where 
it empties into the sea, plunges down in a series of picturesque 
waterfalls. Beyond here is Lobitos (2), situated where the 
Lobitos Creek enters the ocean, and thence is reached 
TUNITAS GLEN (2), the present terminus of the Ocean Shore 
Railway. There is here a pretty little cove with a good 
bathing beach. Excellent trout-fishing is enjoyed in Tunitas 
Creek. From here connection is made by stage along the coast 
to the popular seaside summer resorts of San Gregorio, Pes- 
cadero and Pebble Beach, and the mountain retreats of La. 
Honda and Belleville. The road is good for automobiles, run- 
ning south to Santa Cruz. 

PESCADERO is picturesquely situated near the ocean, but 
separated from it by low hills. Two miles south of here is 
Pebble Beach, a little cove in which there are millions of 
pretty, smooth pebbles of all kinds, including moss-agate, car- 
nelian, opal and quartz. It has been declared that no other 
beach in the United States equals this in the number and 
beauty of its stones. A stage' road leads over the Sierra Mor- 
ena, via La Honda, to Redwood City. (For description of other 
parts of San Mateo county see Route 3.) 



(2) The East Bay Cities 

The cities on the eastern shore of the Bay of San Francisco 
form a great community covering an area of approximately 
100 square miles, most of which is thickly settled. This has 
long been the most rapidly growing region in the United 
States, and the increase in population is going steadily on. In 
1900 the federal census gave the combined population of the 
East Bay cities as 95,000; in 1910, they contained 235,000 inhab- 
itants; at the present time their population approximates 
300,000. According to the calculation of Bion J. Arnold, an em- 
inent expert on municipal development, this region will prob- 
ably contain within thirty years a population of over 2,0'00,000^ 

All the cities on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay 
are reached by ferry and train service from San Francisco. 
These communities, which will now be described, are (a) Oak- 
land, (b) Alameda, (c) Berkeley and (d) Richmond. 



68 



(a) Oakland 



OAKLAND, the third city of California and the county seat 
of Alameda county, is reached from San Francisco (five miles 
distant) by the ferry systems of the Key Route and the 
Southern Pacific Company. The Western Pacific Railway 
maintains a ferry for its transcontinental passengers between 
Oakland and San Francisco; the Creek Route operates a ferry 
service from San Francisco to the foot of Broadway, Oakland, 
by which automobiles are transported across the bay. 

Oakland's population is estimated to be 200,000. The cen- 
sus of 1910 gave the city a population of 150,174, an increase of 
more than 124 per cent over that of the previous census, when it 
was 66,000. Oakland has an area of approximately 56 square 
miles, including 12 square miles of tidal flats, submerged a 
few feet beneath the waters of the bay. These tide-lands are 
being filled in to i)rovide factory sites and terminals for rail- 
ways and ships. 

The most notable recent improvements in Oakland are thfe 
develo])ment of waterfront and shipping facilities. The Inner 
Harbor (Estuary of San Antonio) is south of the city, between 
Oakland and Alameda. Along both sides there are extensive 
wharves and numerons factories. The West Waterfront 
(reached by Eighth-street car line) includes another large 
commercial and industrial district. The Oakland Mole, the 
main terminal of the Southern Pacific Railway, Southern Pa- 
cific Long Wharf, Western Pacific Pier and Key Route Pier 
extend far out into the bay. The city of Oakland has voted 
$2,503,000 for harbor improvements, which will make the ship- 
ping facilities among the best on the Pacific Coast. The 
commerce of Oakland by land and sea is large and steadily 
increasing; eleven ocean steamship lines regularly utilize the 
Oakland docks, thousands of smaller steamers and sailing 
vessels from all parts of the world load and unload at the 
wharves. The municipal government has the ownership and 
complete control over the waterfront and harbor, Oakland 
being one of the first cities in the country to assume this priv- 
ilege. 

The factories of Oakland are mainly along the Estuary and 
the bay shore; practically every article required by modern 
civilization is manufactured here. Tlie total capitalization of 
the 1500 mills and factories is approximately $50,000,000, their 
annual output being valued at $48,000,000. The California 
Cotton Mills at Oakland (established in 1883) are the only 
cotton mills west of the Rocky Mountains; they consume prac- 
tically the entire crop of California cotton. To the traveler in- 



69 




Map Showing Central Part of Oakland 



70 

terested in industrial progress, the factory district of Oakland 
offers many attractions. 

Oakland is the terminus of the main lines of the Southern 
Pacific Company, the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad 
and the Western Pacific Railroad, giving it the best railroad 
facilities of any city in the state. Every day 1,607 trains run 
into and out of the Oakland terminals. The Southern Pacific 
station at Sixteenth street, on the bay shore, is a reinforced 
concrete structure, coating over $300,000. The Santa Fe 
station, at Fortieth street and San Pablo avenue, is an at- 
tractive example of the Mission style of architecture. The 
Western Pacific station, at Third and Washington streets, is 
a commodious building of reinforced concrete. 

The public buildings of Oakland are modern and imposing 
structures. Towering above the business district is the new 
City Hall (Fourteenth and Washington streets). This is the 
tallest building on the Pacific Coast; the ball on the top of the 
dome is 377 feet above the street. From the cupola (reached 
by the elevator) a magnificent panorama of the city and the 
entire Bay Region is obtained. Architecturally impressive and 
attractive, the City Hall houses a model city government, 
based on the commission plan developed in Des Moines, 
Galveston and Berkeley; the city charter is an amplification 
and modification of the charters of these cities. The City 
Hall was erected at a cost of $2,000,000. It is surrounded by 
the city plaza, enriched with giant magnolias and other trees 
and shrubbery. 

The Postoffice is another public building, situated at Fif- 
teenth street and Broadway, in the midst of Oakland's chief 
business district. The building is soon to be enlarged to meet 
the needs of Oakland's increasing population. At Fifth and 
Broadway are the Hail of Records and the Alameda County 
Court House; in the former is housed the Alameda County 
Law Library. The Free Public Library is situated in a fine 
pressedbrick building at Fourteenth and Grove streets. There 
are several branch libraries in different parts of the city. 
The retail business section, of which Broadway is the center, 
contains many large and attractive office buildings. The city's 
great tourist hotel, the Hotel Oakland, erected at a cost of 
almost $2,000,000, is one of the most magnificent on the Pacific 
Coast. It occupies the block bounded by Harrison, Alice, 
Thirteenth and Fourteenth streets. Opposite, at Thirteenth 
and Harrison streets, are the rooms of the Oakland Chamber 
of Commerce. Here there is a display of processed fruits and 
flowers which is well worthy of inspection. The exhibit is 
maintained by the Alameda County Exposition Commission. 



71 

There are forty-five public schools in Oakland, besides a 
large number of private educational institutions. T'here are 
three high schools. St. Mary's College (Broadway and Haw- 
thorne) is a prominent Roman Catholic school for young men, 
giving a regular collegiate course. Mills College (see advertis- 
ing pages) occupies a spacious park that fronts on 59th 
avenue. This is the leading college for young women on the 
Pacific Coast, ranking with the best institutions of the kind 
in the United States. The campus is attractive and well laid 
out. Among the numerous classic buildings are Lisser Hall, 
Mills Hall, College Hall, the Art Library, Carnegie Library 
and the Campanile. 

Park improvement is a prominent feature of Oakland's 
civic program. There are twenty-eight parks, and others in 
course of construction. There are nine playgrounds for chil- 
dren and adults. Extensive improvement work has been done 
around Lake Merritt, a natural water park (170 acres in ex- 
tent), which has a fleet of pleasure craft, including yachts, 
motor-boats, row-boats and canoes. Boats may be hired (rates 
25 cents and 50 cents per hour). Lake Merritt's waters are 
salt; in fact, the lake is an arm of the bay, though cut off 
from it by a broad causeway and moveable dam. (To reach 
the lake take Thirteenth-street cars from the City Hall.) On 
the shores of Lake Merritt are Lakeside Park and Peralta 
Park. In Lakeside Park are the Oakland Public Museum and 
a large conservatory. The museum, contains a collection of 
relics of Colonial days, arms and armor, exhibits pertaining 
to the ethnology of America, Africa and Oceania, a fine col- 
lection of minerals and another of the birds of the Pacific 
Coast. Near Lake Merritt will soon be erected a municipal 
auditorium, to cost $500,000, capable of seating 13,000 persons. 

There are a number of smaller plazas and squares in the 
city, and on the outskirts of Oakland are many attractive 
parks, often with natural surroundings. Piedmont Park 
(reached by Piedmont car) is a private park in the foothills. 
Situated in a sheltered canyon, it contains delightful rustic 
scenery. Many drink the waters of the sulphur springs which 
bubble up in the canyon. A Japanese garden where the visitor 
may obtain refreshments is presided over by a bevy of Nip- 
ponese maidens in butterfly costumes. The Piedmont Art 
Gallery (admission 10 cents) contains a collection of over 
eight hundred canvases of distinction. It ranks as the most 
noteworthy art gallery west of Chicago. Nearly every famous 
artist is represented, the collection being valued at over 
$500,000. In the eucalyptus amphitheater there are held 
band concerts every Sunday, free to visitors in the park. 



72 

(The admission to Piedmont Park is 10 cents.) Piedmont 
Park is situated in the little city of PIEDMONT (2,500 inhab- 
itants), an incorporated municipality which is entirely sur- 
rounded by the city of Oakland. It is unique in having no 
shops or stores of any kind, its area being entirely devoted 
to residential purposes. 

Another attractive park in the foothills is Trestle Glen, a 
sylvan retreat beside running streams (take east-bound 
Fourth-avenue car). Leona Heights, far up in the hills, are 
ideal picnic grounds and offer sweeping views (take Hay ward, 
San Leandro or Melrose cars, transferring to Leona Heights 
car). Rock Ridge Park has the advantage of containing 
many modern and artistic residences; the prospect in every 
direction is inviting, embracing sea, mountain and deeply- 
forested arroyos. The Oakland Traction Company Park is 
a picturesque gorge, with natural wildwood and restful sur- 
roundings. The Mights, for twenty years the home acres of 
Joaquin Miller, "The Poet of the Sierras," are sought by hun- 
dreds of literary pilgrims (take Thirteenth-street car to 
Dimond, walking or driving the rest of the distance). 

Idora Park is a leading amusement place, containing an 
unusual number of concessions that offer amusement to the 
visitor. (From Oakland or Berkeley take either Shattuck 
or Telegraph avenue cars.) The zoological specimens include 
California bear and a flock of ostriches. Popular band con- 
certs are held here in the summer months. Oakland's Base- 
ball Park (take San Pablo-avenue cars) is declared the finest 
minor league ball ground in tbe United States. Games are 
played here every Thursday at 3:15 p. m. and Sunday at 10:15 
a. m. during the playing season. The Oakland team is a 
member of the Pacific Coast League (Class AA). 

The residence sections of Oakland contain many fine 
homes, with attractive grounds and well-kept streets. The 
upper Claremont, with its magnificent hotel now building, is 
an exclusive district overlooking Berkeley and the Bay of 
Francisco, containing some of the most magnificent residences 
of the state. Fruitvale is a suburban residence section, sur- 
rounded by gardens, groves and orchards. Melrose, situated 
to the south of Fruitvale, is another delightful community of 
homes. A point of interest in Fruitvale is the ostrich farm, 
at Fourteenth and High streets, reached by Fourteenth-street 
cars and Key Route Trolley Trip. Here are large enclosures 
containing old and young birds. These ostriches are rem- 
iniscent of the South African deserts from which the original 
stock was imported. They thrive well in California, in the 
northern as well as in the southern part of the state. Be- 



73 

tween Oakland and Berkeley on the bay shore is EMERY- 
VILLE, an incorporated town with considerable manufacturing 
interests. Here is Shell Mound Park, a popular amusement 
resort. Many interesting relics have been exhumed from the 
Indian Mound which gave the park its nam.e. 

The principal theaters of Oakland are the Macdonough 
and Ye Liberty, presenting legitimate drama, and the Or- 
pheum, Pantages, and Bell, popular vaudeville houses. There 
are numerous motion picture houses throughout the city. 
Among the clubs are the Athenian, the Elks, the Nile, the 
Home Club and the Claremont Country Club. The women's 
clubs include the Ebeil and Oakland Clubs. Oakland has 86 
churches, representing all the larger denominations. 

Tne hotels of Oakland are Hotel Oakland, E. P. $1.50 up (see 
advertising pages); Key Route Inn, A. P. $3, E. P. $1 up (see 
advertising pages); Athens, A. P. $2.50 up, E. P. $1 up; Metro- 
pole, A. P. $2.50 to $4, E. P. $1 up; Hotel Crellin, E. P. $1 up; 
Adams, E. P. $1 up; Hoi el St. Mark, A. P, and E. P.; Avalon. 

There are many delightful side-trips about Oakland. The 

tourist may travel by local train, automobile or trolley to the 
neighboring towns of San Lorenzo, Hayward, Newark, Niles, 
Sunol, Pleasanton and Alvarado. All these are described in 
later pages of ihis volume (consult index). The automobile 
boulevards are among the finest in the state. The Foothill 
Boulevard runs southeasterly from Oakland to the city of Hay- 
ward, fifteen miles distant. South-ward from Hayward excel- 
lent roads extend along the foothills to the old Mission San 
Jose, replete with historic interest, and between Palmdale and 
Warm Springs into the Santa Clara Valley. The Tunnel Road 
leads from Berkeley through the Claremont section of Oak- 
land and along the brink of Temescal Canyon, at the head of 
which a tunnel pierces the Contra Costa hills into the San 
Ramon Valley beyond. This tunnel is used by wagons and 
automobiles and is one of the few tunnels in the country not 
constructed for railroad purposes. TTiere are delightful views 
over the bay cities from the road, and it passes close by pic- 
turesque Lake Chabot, one of the sources of Alameda County's 
water supply. The Lake Shore Boulevard starts at Peralta 
Park, follows the shore of Lake Merritt for its entire length 
from south to north and thence leads through Indian Gulch 
and the Piedmont district to Redwood Canyon. The Highland 
Drive starts at the Hotel Oakland, makes the circuit of Lake 
Merritt, traverses Rock Ridge Park, passes the Claremont 
Country Club and continues through the Claremont district 
of Berkeley, along Piedmont avenu^ and down Bancroft way 
to Telegraph avenue, where it enters the university grounds; 



:74 

from the campus it continues by way of Euclid avenue to 
Cragmont, Nortbbrae, Thousand Oaks, Kensington Park, 
Berkeley Heights, Arlington and Kensington. Another boule- 
vard of unsurpassed scenic grandeur is the Skyline Boulevard, 
now being constructed by the Prank C. Havens Com- 
pany interests along the crest of the hills from Oak- 
land north through Berkeley to the city of Richmond. There 
are many other attractive automobile drives in the Oakland, 
Piedmont and Berkeley hills. Among the longer tours are 
those to Moraga Valley, Vallecitas Valley and the beautiful 
Niles Canyon. 

The line of the Oakland, Antioch and Eastern Railway af- 
fords a pleasant side-trip out of Oakland, running northeast- 
ward into Contra Costa County. The route extends through 
Moraga, Lafayette, Walnut Creek, Meinert and Concord to 
Bay Point, 32 miles from the station at Fortieth and Shaffer 
streets, Oakland. 



(b) Al 



ameda 

ALAMEDA is situated on an island south of the city of 
Oakland. It is an industrial and residential city and is known 
for its bathing beaches and aquatic sports. The population in 
1910 was 23,388, increasing from 16,464 in 1900. The indus- 
trial section of the city is along the Estuary, where there are 
excellent shipping facilities. Here are the extensive Borax 
Works of the F. M. Smith Company. Alameda is the head- 
quarters in winter of the large fleet owned by the Alaska 
Packers' Association. 

Among the public buildings are the City Hall, on Santa 
Clara avenue, the Public Library on Webster street (contain- 
ing over 38,000 volumes), and the new Postoffice building on 
the north side of Central avenue, near Park street. There 
are attractive residence sections, containing some of the finest 
homes in California. There are a number of club buildings, 
and all the religious denominations have substantial churches. 
The schools are numerous and well equipped. The high school 
is a model preparatory institution; there are also several pri- 
vate schools. 

Alameda is well equipped with parks and children's play- 
grounds. The municipal properties are beautified with lawns 
and trees. The principal parks are Lincoln Park, Washington 
Park and McKinley Park. The Bay Shore Boulevard is an 
attractive drive for aufcomobilists. 



75 

The beaches along Alameda Bay and the San Antonio Es- 
tuary, both being parts of the great Bay of San Francisco, 
give to Alameda rare advantages as a bathing and boating re- 
sort. Along the shore are a number of clubs devoted to 
aquatic sports, the most prominent of which are the Aeolian 
Yacht Club (Bay Farm Island Bridge), Encinal Yacht Club 
(end of Grand street) and the Alameda Boat Club (end of 
Chestnut street). There are many yachts and other pleasure 
craft in the Alameda waters, including a great number of arks 
and houseboats. The baths of Alameda are numerous and 
popular. 

Tlie hotels of Alameda are the Alameda Hotel, $2.50 up; 
Encinal Hotel, $2.50; Park Hotel, E. P. $2.50 up. 



(c) Berkeley 



BERKELEY, the seat of the University of California, is on 
San Francisco Bay, directly opposite the Golden Gate and im- 
mediately north of Oakland. The city covers an area of nine 
square miles and the population is estimated at 51,000. The 
census of 1910 gave Berkeley a population of 40,434, showing 
it to be the fastest growing city of its size in the United 
States., In 1900 Berkeley had 13,214 inhabitants, so that the 
increase was 206 per cent. The city derives its name from 
George Berkeley, Bishop of Cloyne, Ireland, who came to 
America early in the eighteenth century for the purpose of 
establishing colleges. His devotion to the cause of education 
made appropriate the bestowal of his name on the educational 
capital of the West, a then almost unknown region, referred to 
in his prophetic line, "Westward tiie course of Empire takes 
its way." 

Berkeley occupies a gently sloping area from the bay to 
the Berkeley hills, upon whose heights are attractive resi- 
dences. Along the water-front are a number of factories. 
The main business of Berkeley centers about Shattuck avenue 
from Bancroft way to University avenue. Shattuck avenue is 
the widest street in California; on it are operated two lines 
of interurban electric railway trains and a double line of street 
cars. The Southern Pacific station at University and Shat- 
tuck avenues is one of the most attractive buildings of its kind 
in the state. The Santa Fe station presents an excellent ex- 
ample of the architecture characteristic of the California mis- 
sions. (Intersection of University avenue and West street.) 

The City Hall is a modern municipal building situated on 
Grove street, between Center street and Allston way. An ex- 



76 

cellent view of Berkeley may be obtained from its tower. To 
the rear of the City Hall is a children's playground; on the 
southeastcorner of the grounds is an old Spanish cannon, cap- 
tured by Admiral Dewey at the battle of Manila Bay, May 1, 
1898. Tlie Free Public Library is situated on Shattuck avenue 
and Kittredge street. The library contains 45,000 volumes. 
Near it is the Postoffice; a larger postoffice building will soon 
be constructed by the government at Addison and Milvia 
streets. The High School, one of the largest in the state, is 
situated at Grove street and Allston way. It has 1,500 pupils. 
The building and site cost $300,000. The California School 
for the Deaf and the Blind is situated in Southeast Berkeley 
in a handsome and well-kept park. On these grounds can be 
seen the famous group of bronze statuary by Douglas Tilden, 
the deaf and dumb sculptor, entitled "The Indian Bear Hunt- 
ers." There are well equipped public primary and grammar 
schools in Berkeley, besides a number of colleges and acad- 
emies, the most prominent being the Berkeley Business Col- 
lege (see advertising pages), the California School of Arts 
and Crafts, Boone's University Academy, St. Joseph's Acad- 
emy, Pacific TTieological Seminary, Baptist Theological Sem- 
inary, St. Joseph's Presentation Academy, Miss Head's 
Seminary, Snell's Seminary, the A to Zed School, the Watson 
School. The Berkeley Municipal Wharf (end of North-and- 
West Berkeley car line) is at the foot of University avenue. 
Annual swimming carnivals are held from the wharf, which is 
a mile long; the excellent fishing privileges are free. 

Berkeley possesses fine residence districts. Homes in the 
eastern part of Berkeley may be seen to advantage at points 
along Telegraph avenue and College avenue (take cars marked 
with these names). The suburban residences of North- 
brae, Cragmont, North Cragmont, Thousand Oaks, Berkeley 
Park, Berkeley Highlands, Arlington, Arlington Park, Ken- 
sington Park, Fairmont Park, Regents Park and Cerrito Park 
on the north, may be seen from the Northbrae cars (making a 
loop centering on University and Shattuck avenues.) Many 
Indian Rocks, most of them with mortar-like depressions made 
in their sides for grinding corn, are in the northern part of 
the city, showing that the country was once thickly settled 
by aborigines. One on Indian Rock avenue, near the Circle, 
is a typical specimen of these monuments of a forgotten race. 

Above the city rise the Berkeley Hills, which, excepting 
Mount Tamalpais, afford the best view of the bay region to 
be gained. These hills offer excellent climbing for leisurely 
pedestrians. Behind the University rises Charter Hill, 1000 
feet high, upon which is the huge "C" which has been placed 



77 

near its crest by the undergraduates. Tliis "Big C" it outlined 
with electric lights before every California-Stanford football 
game or track meet. From Charter Hill, there is an excellent 
trail past Little Grizzly Peak to Mount Grizzly or Grizzly Peak 
(as it is usually called), the highest point in the Berkeley 
range, 1759 feet above sea level. The view from the peak is 
Inspiring, and afte'' climbing Charter Hill the ascent is 
gradual until the peak is reached. In Cragmont are two pa- 
vilions upon the hillside, which may be reached by automo- 
bile road, from which an extended view may be had. To the 
northwest of Berkeley is Cerrito Hill, a wooded eminence of 
peculiar formation with steep sides, rising from the bay 
shore about 300 feet. From the summit of the hill an ex- 
cellent view of Brooks Island (2V2 miles away, 140 feet above 
water) may be gained. At the base of Cerrito Hill lies the 
town of ALBANY. This is a growing town of over one thou- 
sand inhabitants. It has been recommended by military and 
naval officers to the federal government as the best site on 
San .Francisco Bay for a navy yard. 

The principal hotels of Berkeley are the Hotel Shattuck, 
A. P. $2.50 up (see advertising pages). Hotel Berkeley, E. P. 
$1 up (see advertising pages); Hotel Carlton, A. P. $2.50' up; 
Northgate, A. P. $2 up; Berkeley Inn, A. P. $2.50 up; Cloyne 
Court. 

The Berkeley Chamber of Commerce, 2112 .Shattuck 
avenue, contains an exhibit of Alameda County products. 

The chief attraction of Berkeley is the University of Cal- 
ifornia. The western entrance to the campus, at Center and 
Oxford streets, is just three blocks from the terminal of the 
Berkeley Key Route line, and two from the Berkeley station 
of the Shattuck line of the Southern Pacific (see map). The 
Ellsworth line of the Southern Pacific local ends near an en- 
trance to the campus, two blocks east, at Dana and Allston. 
The main entrance to the campus at the present time is the 
Sather Gate, at Telegraph avenue and Allston way, which 
may be reached by taking the branch street car line of the 
Key Route connecting at South Berkeley. The Sather Gate 
was erected at a cost of $40,000 by the late Mrs. Jane K. 
Sather, in memory of her husband. Another eastern entrance 
to the campus is situated at the end of College avenue, and is 
reached by taking the College-avenue cars to College and 
Allston, or by taking the College-avenue branch of the Key 
Route. This entrance is nearest the Greek Theater. On the 
north side of the campus there are two entrances, the North 
Gate, at Euclid and Hearst avenues, and the entrance at 



^Ujcutr^ 



% 




University of California Campus 



79' 

Hearst and Arch. When the Hearst plans for the University 
are completed, the main gateway will be at University and 
Oxford, at the western side of the campus, and the road ex- 
tending therefrom will be the main axis. 

The campus at Berkeley contains 254 acres. Located op- 
posite the Golden Gate, and on land sloping gradually toward 
the hills in such a way as to have a commanding view of the 
bay and San Pi'ancisco, it is one of the most picturesquely 
situated universities in the world. Passing through the 
w^estern gate at Center and Oxford, the visitor traverses the 
tree-shaded avenues of the campus, loast live oaks thousands 
of years old, including the Le Conte Oak, dedicated to Joseph 
Le Conte, former professor of the University, and to John 
Le Conte, former president; past tall eucalyptus trees which 
have been planted since the establishment of the University, 
half a century ago. These eucalyptus trees shade the Cinder 
Track of the students, where the field meets of the University 
are held. To the right of the path is the Football Statue, pre- 
sented to the University for superiority in American football. 
The statue is of bronze, and was designed by Douglas Tllden, 
the deaf and dumb California sculptor. The group represents 
two players of the Rugby football game, which is the game 
now played by the University of California, and many other 
Western institutions. 

The South Drive, branching to the right of the central 
path, leads past the Harmon Gymnasium, where the men of 
the University receive training in physical culture. This gym- 
nasium is the largest indoor auditorium on the campus, and 
in it are held evening concerts, debates and college dances. 
Here, also, every two weeks is held the University Meeting, 
at which speakers of note address ail the students. 

The field to the east of the cinder track is the Drill Ground, 
where drill is held every Monday and Wednesday by the 
University Cadets at 11 a. m. To the east of this field is 
Californis Hall, in which are situated the administrative 
offices. On the second floor are the offices of the President, 
Comptroller, Secretary of the Regents, Recorder of the Facul- 
ties, Dean of the Summer Session, Alumni Secretary, and 
Director of University Extension. The first floor is devoted 
to offices of various departments, among them History, Eco- 
nomics and Political Science, and class rooms. There is an 
auditorium (room 101), in which lectures are held. On its 
walls are portraits of noted persons connected with the Uni- 
versity, California Hall is one of the buildings in the perma- 
nent plans of the University, and is of white granite. 



80 

Across from California Hall is Boalt Hall, the home of the 
School of Jurisprudence, of which Professor William Carey 
Jones is director. The school ranks with such graduate law 
schools as those at Harvard and Columbia, in its standard 
of admission and the thoroughness of its work. Tlie building 
belongs in the permanent plans and cost $200,000. 

North of California Hall is the University Library, built at 
a cost of a million dollars. The greater part of this sum was 
the gift of the late Charles Franklin Doe. The building is of 
white California granite, with red tile roofing. Its entrance 
faces north; to the right of the entrance on the first floor 
is the Periodical Room, containing m.agazines and other pub- 
lications from all over the world. To the left is the room de- 
voted to the Bancroft Library, an extensive collection of books 
and magazines relating to Pacific Coast history. The rest of 
this floor is devoted to seminar rooms, to which special books 
are transferred for the use of students and instructors engaged 
in research work. On the second floor is the catalogue and 
delivery room, from which access to the six floors of book 
stacks is gained. The main reading room is on this floor. It 
takes up the whole of the north front, and is fifty-three by two 
hundred and ten feet in size, and forty-five feet in height from 
the floor to the vaulted ceiling. The library contains over 
215,000 volumes. 

North Hall and South Hall, the two oldest buildings on the 
campus, are devoted to class rooms and laboratories. In the 
basement of North Hall is the Student's Co-operative Store. 
Student publications, including the "Daily Californian," have 
their ofl[ices in North Hall. Beacon Hall, formerly the library, is 
now devoted to class rooms. It is among the oldest buildings. 

In the southeast part of the campus is situated California 
Field, on which the baseball and football games are held, with 
bleachers accommodating 24,000. On the occasion of the Cal- 
ifornia-Stanford games, every seat is taken. In this part of 
the grounds are Hearst Hall, given to the women students for 
a gymnasium and meeting place by Regent Phoebe A. Hearst 
of the University; the Rudolph Spreckels Physiological Lab- 
oratory, the Pathology and Medicine building, the Museum of 
Vertebrate Zoology, the Students' Infirmary, the Anthropolog- 
ical Museum, the Faculty Club, and the Senior Men's Hall. 
This last-named building is the center of the system of student 
self-government at the University. Here, one evening a week, 
at "Senior Singing," the men of the fourth-year class meet 
and discuss college problems. 



81 

Other buildings in the eastern part of the grounds are the 
Chemistry building, the Anatomy building, the Architecture 
building, the Civil Engineering building, East Hall, and the 
Philosophy building. 

The Hearst Memorial Mining building, at the northeast 
corner of the campus, near Founder's Rock, is the gift of Mrs. 
Phoebe Apperson Hearst, as a memorial to her husband, the 
late United States Senator Geroge Hearst. It is of Raymond 
granite, and includes four floors, devoted to the various activ- 
ities involved in the practice of mining. The building and its 
equipment represent an outlay of $1,000,000. On the northern 
side of the campus, below the Mining building, are the 
Mechanics building, the Students' Observatory, the Botanical 
Gardens, the Conservatory, the Agricultural building, one of 
the newer granite structures, and the President's mansion. 

By far the most distinctive feature of the University is the 
Greek Theater, situated in a hollow of the tree-covered hills 
at the eastern extremity of the grounds. This is the most 
famous outdoor auditorium in America, and is known the 
world over. Planned on Imes similar to those of the ancient 
theater at Epidaurus, it easily seats 10,000 people. It was 
given to the University by William Randolph Hearst. On ac- 
count of the equable climate of Berkeley, it is possible to hold 
out-door performances in the Greek theater at all seasons of 
the year. Many famous persons have appeared here. In 1910 
Colonel Theodore Roosevelt lectured to more than 12,500 
auditors. Among the artists who have been heard in this the- 
ater are Sarah Bernhardt, Maud Adams, William Crane, Tet- 
razzini, Nordica, Gadski, Schuman-Heinck, David Bisphain and 
others. During the summer months and while the University 
is in session, free concerts, called the Half-Hours of Music, 
are held on Sunday afternoons. 

A permanent adornment of the campus, soon to be erected, 
is the Sather Campanile, 300 feet high, with a clock and 
chimes. This will cost $325,000. 

The University of California is, in point of attendance, the 
second largest university in the United States, being exceeded 
only by Columbia. In 1860 was established the College of 
California, the forerunner of the University, and in 1868 the 
Organic Act of the State University was passed, establishing 
the institution at its present location in Berkeley. At the 
present time, including the students at the Summer Session, 
there are 7,132 students enrolled; there are 582 officers. Be- 
sides giving instruction in .all branches at Berkeley, the Uni- 
versity has numerous stations throughout the state, among 



82 

them the State Farm at Davis, the Lick Observatory at Mount 
Hamilton, the Scripps Biological Institute at La Jolla, and the 
Affiliated Colleges at San Francisco. The University is also 
kept in close touch with the people of the state through the 
activities of its Department of Agriculture and of its Univer- 
sity Extension Division. Dr. Benjamin Ide Wheeler, one of 
the most noted educators of the United States, recently 
Roosevelt Lecturer at the University of Berlin, has guided 
the University in its progress as President since 1S99. The 
faculty contains many recognized experts in various fields of 
knowledge. 



(d) Richmond 



RICHMOND, six miles north of Berkeley, in Contra Costa 
County, is reached by street car, local and through trains. 
The territory between Berkeley and Richmond is rapidly set- 
tling up, and includes a number of prosperous communities, 
such as Albany, Pullman and Stege. Richmond is a growing 
manufacturing city with a population of about 12,000; in 1910 
the inhabitants numbered 6,802, in 1899 there were only a few 
farm houses on the site. Extensive harbor im.provement has 
been planned, insuring the industrial future of the city. Rich- 
mond is advantageously situated on the Richmond peninsula 
which juts out into the bay, and has a water-front of seventeen 
miles. To the tourist, Richmond is interesting particularly 
because of its industries and commerce. Here is the great 
Western plant of the Standard Oil Company, the largest re- 
finery west of Chicago. Its establishment at this point in- 
volved two great undertakings — the laying of a double pipe- 
line from the Kern county oil fields, 260 miles distant, with 
the creation of pumping stations at frequent intervals to 
force the heavy crude oil from the wells to the reservoirs at 
tide-water, and the building of the immense refining plant, 
including a can factory with a capacity of 30,0'00 five-gallon 
cans per day. T'here are over 500 miles of pipe. The system 
of refining crude California oil with its asphalt base is com- 
plex and the processes are interesting to visitors. 

Richmond was chosen by the Standard Oil management 
because of its location, its San Pablo Hills, its harbor, and its 
transportation facilities. The system is so arranged that oil 
is handled almost entirely by gravity, the oil flowing from 
the highest points into the tanks lower down, to be thence 
drawn off, refined and treated. At this plant the raw material 
is turned into 175 products, including 17 kinds of oils. The 
candle factory, asphalt plant and whale oil refinery are among 



83 

the Standard Oil factories of importance here. The company 
has invested more than $5,000,000 in equipment. 

The Pullman Company shops, with an output of 80 cars 
per month, (800 employees) are situated at Pullman near 
Richmond. The quarrying industry is large, four stone quar- 
ries being in operation. Richmond is the center of the porce- 
lain industry of the Pacific Coast. The factories of the city 
include pipe and steel works, brick works and lumber yards. 
The great cellars and plant of the California Wine Associa- 
tion at ''Winehaven," in the northern part of the city, are 
of interest to tourists. This is the central plant of the biggest 
grape-growing and wine-making organization in the world; 
and here is received the product of the association's wineries 
from San Bernardino to Redding. There are twelve miles of 
passages between the immense redwood tanks in the cellars. 
The total capacity is 11,000,000 gallons. There are kept on 
hand at all times 15,000,000 bottles, and 67 kinds of wine are 
shipped to all parts of the world. The delivery capacity of 
the plant is 500,000 gallons a month, and the association has 
its own 2,000-foot wharf, "Winehaven" is said to be the 
largest plant of its kind in the world. It is the aim of the 
association to keep California wines pure and to promote 
their use as being better than distilled liquors. 

The Richmond harbor ranks second to that of San Fran- 
cisco in tonnage of goods shipped. Much of this large ship- 
ment is due to the fact that Richmond is the Pacific Coast 
terminal of the Santa Fe Railroad and also to the output of 
the Standard Oil Company here. 

Richmond has several fine parks and automobile boule- 
vards. Grand Canyon Park is a natural beauty spot in the 
hills, overlooking the bay; there are here a pavilion and boat- 
ing lake. Janice Park is a pretty plaza in the eity. East 
Shore Park, owned by the East Shore and Suburban Railway 
Company, covers 17 acres and has picnic grounds, athletic 
fields, swimming pool and dancing pavilion. Among Rich- 
mond's attractive public buildings are the free library and 
schools, including a modern high school. There are ample 
hotel accommodations. 



3. San Francisco to San Jose 

This journey is the first stage of the trip from San Fran- 
cisco to Los Angeles by the Coast Route. Another way to 
reach San Jose from San Francisco is through Oakland along 
the east shore of the bay, a route treated in a later portion of 
this book (consult table of contents). 

The Coast Line of the Southern Pacific, after leaving the 
Third-street depot in San BYancisco, runs south along the bay 
by way of the Bay Shore Cut-off, into San Mateo county and 
past San Bruno Mountain (1,315 feet) to South San Fran- 
cisco (9). SAN MATEO COUNTY has an area of 447 square 
miles, occupying the larger part of che San Francisco penin- 
sula. This county is divided lengthwise by the Santa Morena 
lange of mountaiiis, forming the backbone of the peninsula. 
The mountain ridge is the fertile and picturesque watershed 
of a region peculiarly adapted on its eastern slope for homes 
of beau-ty and comfort. Along the bay shore are many miles 
of deep water, and spur tracks to this deep water are now 
under construction, thereby opening up vast possibilities to 
manufacturers who desire cheap sites with excellent shipping 
facilities. On the west the descent to the Pacific is quick and 
abrupt into a region occupied by prosperous farmers, dairy- 
men, stock raisers and lumbermen. (See Route lb.) The 
ridge is everywhere accessible, full of brooks and springs, 
and all more or less covered with oak and redwood. Climatic 
and scenic surroundings, shipping facilities, proximity to the 
metropolis of the Pacific Coast, are all favorable conditions 
working toward the prosperity of this county. The population 
in 1910 was 26,585; in 1900 it was 12,094. 

SOUTH SAN FRANCISCO is a town with a population of 
1,989 in 1910. It is growing in industrial importance. From 
here the line extends through San Bruno (2), Millbrae (3) and 
Easton (1), all thriving residential districts, to Burlingame 
(1). BURLINGAME long has been a home tov/n. The pop- 
ulation in 1910 was 1,565. The Burlingame Country Club is 
the suburban club of wealthy San Franciscans. The res- 
idences are costly and architecturally attractive. The polo 
field at Burlingame has been the scene of many international 
tournaments. West of Burlingame is the town of HILLS- 
BOROUGH. Here is located the St. Matthew's Military Acad- 
emy (founded in 1866), on a fine site overlooking the bay. 
South of Burlingame is San Mateo (1), the intervening ter- 
ritory rapidly settling up. 



85 

SAN MATEO is a progreBbive city of about 6,000 popula- 
tion; in 1910 it had 4,384 people, and in 1900, 1,832. (Peninsula 
Hotel; Union Hotel, $2 up.) It is distinctly a residence city, 
but has also business interests to assure prosperity. There 
are attractive public buildings, including a free library and 
high school. The Peninsula Hotel is a large tourist hotel, 
situated in extensive and beautiful grounds. Aulo trips about 
San Mateo include many delightful drives. One of the most 
enjoyable is the North Lake Drive, to the southwest, up San 
Mateo Canyon to Crystal Si)rings Lake (5 miles long), passing 
by Crystal Springs Dam, the second largest in the world (4 
miles), and thence northwest to San Andreas Lake (3 miles 
long), thence northeast to Millbrae and thence southeast to 
San Maleo. The entire circuit is 20 miles. The lakes are 
the property of the Spring Valley Water Company, and at 
present furnish the main water supply of San Francisco. To 
the west of San Andreas and Crystal Springs Lakes lies Pilar- 
citos Lake (over 1 mile long). Another pleasant drive is that 
by Crystal Springs Lake, through the picturesque San Gab- 
ilan Pass to Half Moon Bay (see Route lb), a distance of 15 
miles. Las Pulgas Drive, a circuit of thirty miles, is by way 
of the lakes, through Canyada Valley to Redwood City and 
thence northeast to San Mateo. The Summit Drive, via 
Wloodside and Redwood City (circut 40 miles), reaches the 
summit of King's IVIountain, (2.000 feet). The pleasant Wood- 
side and Portola Valleys on this route are growing residence 
sections. 

The main route from San Mateo runs through Peresford 
(2), where there are golf links and a country club, to BEL- 
MONT (2). Here is situated the Belmont Military Academy, 
to the west of the town. The canyon in which it is located 
is picturesque and an extended view of the country may be 
had from Belmont Hill (530), to the south of the town. From 
Belmont the route continues through San Carlos (1), to Red- 
wood City (2), 

REDWOOD CITY, the county seat of San Mateo County, 
had a population of 2.442 in 1910. (Tremont Hotel, $1.50; 
Redwood City House, $1.25.) It owes its name to the red- 
wood which formerly grew in the hills above here and which 
was shipped to San Francisco in the early days to build that 
city; the first raft of red\\cod was sent in 1850. There are 
several factories in the city and its industrial future seems 
assured, in view of the develonment of deep water frontage 
on Redwcod Inlet. Among the public buildings are a fine 
stone court house, the City Library, and the Union High 
School (facing Broadway). A stage crosses the Sierra Mor- 



86 

ena daily from Redwood to Pescadero (31 miles), passing 
through Woodside (see above) to La Honda (14 miles from 
Redwood). The redwood forests on the coast side of the 
hills are most inviting; the trees are of great size, many 
over 200 feet high. The road runs through these trees for 
several miles along the torrential Pescadero Creek, to the 
town of Pescadero. (See Route lb.) 

From Redwood City the route continues through Atherton 
(3) and MENLO PARK (1), a pretty residential town (Oak 
Grove Villa, $1.50 up), into Palo Alto, in Santa Clara County. 

The main portion of SANTA CLARA COUNTY is a fruitful 
valley, noted for its equable climate, its pleasant scenery and 
its abundani products. On the western side of the valley 
are the foothills of the Santa Cruz mountains, part of the 
Coast Range, rising to a height of four thousand feet. To 
an equal altitude on the eastern side of the Santa Clara 
Valley rise the rounded terraces of the inner Coast Range. 
Forests of redv/ood, pine, madrona and laurel cover these 
mountains. The uplands furnish sport for the deer and quaii 
hunter. Mountain streams cut small ravines through the val- 
ley. Among the marshes and at the brink of the bay, 
duck-hunting and salt-water fishing are offered the sports- 
man. 

The SANTA CLARA VALLEY was compared by Captain 
George Vancouver, commander of the English ship "Dis- 
covery," who visited it in 1792, to a park laid out by some 
studied plan. This was when the country was in its native 
state, and now the effect is even more pleasing and restful 
to the eye. The landscape is dotted with homes; four hun- 
dred miles of well-kept roads cut the valley into a mosaic of 
a thousand pieces, and everywhere are the regular rows of 
orchards, totaling eight million trees. 

Santa Clara county is almost exclusively a fruit-raising 
district. It claims the largest fruit cannery and the largest 
fruit-packing house in the world. The prune crop is by far 
the heaviest; there are in the county 5,549,280 prune trees. 
This fruit was imported from France in 1853, and the millions 
of trees now yielding fruit are the outgrowth of the small 
grove planted in the eastern foothills near Evergreen by 
Monsieur P. Pellier. The 1912 prune crop was officially es- 
timated at 13,0'00,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000.- 
000 primes — which shows the magnitude of the industry. 

Besides prunes, the county raises quantities of apricots, 
pears, peaches and cherries. The output of canned fruits is 
1,000,000 cases. Figs, grapes and olives have thrived here 



87 

since their introduction by tlie early Spanish settlers. At the 
time of the gold excitement, this district furnished the miners 
with agricultural produce, and farming still flourishes. 
Among other important products are seeds; carloads of 
seed are sent Bast every year from Santa Clara county 
nurseries and seed farms. The area of the county is 1,328 
square miles. The population in 1910 was 83,539; in 1900 it 
was 60,218. At the last census, Santa Clara was the fourth 
county in the state in lyopulation, being exceeded by Los An- 
geles, San Francisco and Alameda counties. 

The city of PALO ALTO may be termed the northern 
gateway to the Santa Clara Valley. As the seat of the 
Leland Stanford Junior University, it is known the world 
over as an educational center. The population within the 
municipal limits is about 5,000 (census of 1910, 4,486) ; but 
the surrounding population is so closely knit together as to 
form a single community of over 10,000 inhabitants, within 
a two-mile radius, of which Palo Alto is the social and busi- 
ness center. The suburbs not within the city limits include 
Atherton, Menlo Park, Fair Oaks, the University Campus, 
Mayfield, Alba Park. Boyce Tract, North Palo Alto and South 
Palo Alto. 

Palo Alto is a popular residence city, with well-paved 
streets, attractive homes and a wealth of trees and flowers. 
The first house in Palo Alto was built among the live oaks in 
1891 and the grand old trees are carefully protected and 
found growing in the streets and avenues of the city, as well 
as adding to the charm of the private grounds. The name 
Palo Alto signifies in Spanish "tall tree," but the redwood 
which gave this appellation has disappeared. Municipal im- 
provements are numerous, the city owning its water and 
light facilities. The public buildings include the City Hall 
(on Ramona street), the Public Library and the High School. 
Besides the public schools, Palo Alto has a number of private 
schools, attracted here by the proximity of the great univer- 
sity. St. Patrick's Seminary, among the foremost Catholic 
theological schools of the West, adjoins Palo Alto on the 
north; the buildings were erected at a cost of over $1,000,000. 
Sacred Heart Academy is two miles to the northwest; in 
the city are the Manzanita school for boys and the Castilleja 
and Harker schools for girls. 

Palo Alto is the northern terminus of the Peninsular Rail- 
way, which runs southeast to San Jose. Lines run from the 
city westward into the prune orchard district and the foot- 
hills. About Palo Alto there are many small agricultural 
holdings where dairying, poultry raising, seed growing, celery 



88 

culture and berry farming are carried on. North of the city 
about two miles the great Dumbarton bridge crosses the bay 
of San Francisco, carrying transcontinental traffic to the 
metropolis. West of the railway is the Stanford stock-farm 
of nine thousand acres; some of the famous race horses of 
the country were bred here. 

The Leiand Stanford Junior University is situated imme- 
diately west of Palo Alto, and from the tourist's standpoint 
is the most interesting feature in this region. The campus 
is reached by carline directly from the center of the city. 
The University was founded by Governor (afterwards Sena- 
tor) Leiand Stanford and Mrs. Jane L. Stanford in memory 
of their only child. It has an endowment fund of almost 
$40,000,000; this great fortune was acquired by Leiand Stan- 
lord, one of the four builders of the Central and Southern 
Pacific Railroad system. Established in 1885, the University 
was thrown open to students in October, 1891. 

The campus of the LTniversity is spacious and well kept, 
with drives and boulevards. The main buildings are situated 
about a mile from the entrance. The various halls, labora- 
tories and lecture rooms are in the form of a great quad- 
rangle, 960 feet on each side. The inner court is 536 by 246 
feet. The buildings are not all completed according to the 
original plan, but new structures are being added constantly. 
Stanford University presents the most extensive and elaborate 
example of the mission style of building. The architectural 
motive, conceived by H. H. Richardson, is taken from the 
characteristic architecture of the San Antonio Mission. The 
buildings are of buff sandstone, the stone work of broken 
ashlar, with rough rock face, and the roofs are covered with 
red tiles. The open arches and long colonnades are har- 
monious features of the architectural style. 

The Inner Quadrangle consists of twelve one-story build- 
ings and the Memorial Ciiurch. The church has been de- 
clared by authorities to be one of the most imposing and 
artistic religious edifices in the country. The interior is elab- 
orately decorated. Though greatly damaged by the earth- 
quake of 1906, the work of restoring the chapel is well on 
the road to completion. Outer Quadrangle contains fourteen 
buildings connected on the exterior side by open arcades. 
Behind the Quadrangle (known to the students as the "Quad") 
is a long row of two-story buildings in which are established 
the scientific and mechanical departments. Still farther back 
are the fraternity and sorority houses, the homes of the 
faculty and university officers and boarding houses for stu- 
dents, the whole forming a community of 2500 people. 



89 

Recent improvements have been made upon the Univer- 
sity campus, but the next few years will see the building ac- 
tivity increased. A new library building which will accom- 
modate 1,000,000 volumes, a new gymnasium costing f.75,000 
and a concrete football stadium, equal to that of either Har- 
vard or Yale, will be included in the program of construc- 
tion. Work upon the restoration of the museum north of the 
campus (which suffered in the earthquake of ]906) will be 
begun. 

Stanford University is open to the yoath of the state, 
who are instructed here in all the departments of learning. 
The University course includes liberal arts, civil and elec- 
trical engineering, mining and jurisprudence. The Cooper 
Medical College, in San Francisco is affiliated with the Uni- 
versity. There are about 2,000 students at Stanford. The 
women students are limited in number to 500' by the decrees 
of the founders. The faculty of Stanford University in- 
cludes authorities in all branches of knowledge. Dr. David 
Starr Jordan, President of the institution from its beginning 
to 1913, guided the upbuilding of the University. He now 
holds the position of Chancellor. Dr. J. C. Branner has been 
made President. 

From Palo Alto the Southern Pacific line runs to May- 
field (2), a residence city with a population of 1900. (May- 
field Inn, $1.75.) A branch road runs from Mayfield southeast 
to Los Gatos. The route extends through a foothill district 
with many orchards and suburban homes. From Mayfield the 
line is through Los Altos (4), Monta Vista (5), Congress 
Junction (4). Quito (1), to Vasona Junction (2), where it 
joins the main line, continuing to Los Gatos (3). (See route 
4.) The tracks of this route are used in common by the 
Southern Pacific Company and the Peninsular Electric Rail- 
way from Mayfield to Monta Vista, where the latter line turns 
east toward San Jose. 

The main route continues from Mayfield to Mountain 
View (4), a progressive residence town of 2,500, surrounded 
by orchards and grain fields. (American Hotel, $L) From 
here is reached Sunnyvale (3), the fruit-shipping center of 
the west side of the Santa Clara Valley, and an important 
manufacturing town; the population is 2,000. The railroad 
from Sunnyvale extends through Lawrence (2) to Santa 
Clara (3). 

SANTA CLARA is one of California's old mission towns. 
The population in 1910 was 4,348; at present it is over 5,000. 
The city has attractive residences and large commercial in- 



90 

terests. It is a shipping center for the orchards and seed 
farms of the surrounding country. The factories include a 
number of large industrial establishments. The Town Hall 
(Main and Benton streets), Public Library (on Main street) 
and High School (Bellomy and Washington streets) are prom- 
inent public buildings. (Santa Clara Hotel, E. P.; Pipes 
Hotel, E. P. $1 up.) 

The University of Santa Clara is one of the leading Roman 
Catholic educational institutions of the West. The Univer- 
sity has an attendance of 1200 students. The campus con- 
tains many imposing structures and new buildings are being 
erected at a cost of over $1,000,000'. The institution was for- 
merly known as Santa Clara College, but was recently em- 
powered to assume the position of a university. Founded in 
1851, it is the oldest college on the Pacific Coast. Santa Clara 
College grew up about the old Mission Santa Clara, which 
still stands on the grounds. 

The Mission Santa Clara was founded January 12, 1777, 
being the eighth of the Franciscan Missions established in 
California. Father Tomas de la Pena presided at the foun- 
dation. The present structure is the third to be erected by 
the parish of Santa Clara. The original adobe walls of this 
church were replaced by wooden ones in 1885. The exterior 
has been further changed by the replacing of the bell tower 
and facade with the belfries at either end of the front. Al- 
though the mission structure has been restored to such a de- 
gree externally, the interior remains practically as it was 
in the days of the padres, with furnishings and ornamenta- 
tions almost unchanged. Many sacred relics are within the 
church, the old pulpit, the large crucifix, the tabernacle, 
the candelabra shelves, the reredos (background of the main 
altar) and the copy of the miraculous and historic painting 
of "Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe." There are wooden 
statues of St. Joachim, St. Ann, St. John Capistran (San 
Juan Capistrano) and St. Colette. There are besides many 
other statues and medallions. Much of the interior decora- 
tion of Mission Clara is of interest. There are three old 
bells, donated to the mission by the King of Spain, 
in the belfry to the right. Two bear the dates 1798 
and 1799 and the third bears the double date of 1805-64, 
having been recast in 1864. In the University Library there 
are other historic relics of former days, including missals, 
breviaries and vestments, as well as early paintings relating 
to the Mission life. Santa Clara Mission was connected with 
the Pueblo of San Jose by a portion of El Camino Real 
known as the Alameda. It has a broad tree-shaded road. 



91 

much traveled in the early days, and has of late years been 
restored. 

The city of SAN JOSE (pronounced San Ho-say), is south- 
east of Santa Clara, the two cities being practically one com- 
munity. It is the largest city of the Santa Clara Valley and 
is the county seat. At the 1910 census, the population cred- 
ited was 28,946, but the gain during the succeeding years has 
been great. Postoffice reports and the city directory census 
show a population of approximately 48,000. San Jose's com- 
mercial importance is augmented by a rich tributary region, 
and Port San Jose, to be developed near Alviso, nine miles 
to the north on San Francisco bay, will increase its trade; 
the region about Port San Jose is within the municipality of 
San Jose. The manufacturing plants are numerous and im- 
portant. Among the industries of interest to tourists are 
the large fruit canneries and dried fruit packing houses. The 
brick factories are among the most extensive in the West. 
As a residence city, San Jose ranks especially high. It de- 
serves its fame as the "Garden City." The twenty square 
miles of the city's area are beautified with broad avenues 
and shady walks. There is a great wealth of flowers, trees 
and shrubs, mainly semi-tropic. The city is particularly noted 
for its roses, of which there are over 165 varieties growing in 
the city's gardens. 

San Jose is one of the historic cities of California, al- 
though not a mission town. It w^as founded on November 
29, 1777, three miles south of the Mission of Santa Clara, and 
was the first pueblo to be established in Alta California (the 
present state). Its full title was San Jose de Guadalupe. It 
is a fact of historical interest that Don Caspar de Portola and 
his men, marching up from the south, passed and looked down 
upon the site of San Jose four years before the Boston Tea 
Party. 

There are many noteworthy public buildings in San Jose. 
The Postoffice (San Fernando and Market streets) is one of 
the finest built by the government. The City Hall is situated 
a block south on Market street, facing the City Hall Park. 
The State Normal School, with attractive buildings of the 
Mission style, is in the center of Washington Square (bound- 
ed by Fourth, Seventh, San Fernando and San Carlos streets). 
Facing San Fernando street, on the eastern corner of Wash- 
ington Square, is the San Jose High School, and on the 
western corner of Washington Square is the Public Library, 
with a collection of 23,539 volumes. The County Court House 
and the Hall of Records are on First street, facing St. James 



92 

Square. The Hail of Justice is nearby, at the corner of St. 
James and Market streets; the county jail is also on this 
bloclv. Among the private educational institutions are the 
College of the Pacific (at College Park), a Methodist school, 
and the College of Notre Dame (on West Santa Clara street), 
a Roman Catholic institution. 

San Jose has a number of excellent hotels, including some 
which appeal particularly to the tourist. Among the hotels 
are the Vendome, A. P. $3, E. P. $1.50; St. James, A. P. $2.-50 
up, E. P. $1 up; Montgomery, E. P. $1 up; Russ House, A. P. 
$2; Lenox, E; P. 75 cents up; Angelus, E, P. 50 cents up. 

The park system adds to the beauty of the city. St. James 
Park (bounded by First, Third, St. John and Santa Clara 
streets) is said to contain a greater variety of shrubbery 
growing in the open air than any other park of like size in the 
world. In this square is the handsome monument to President 
William McKinley, who delivered an address in this spot 
shortly before his assassination. The bronze figure is 9 feet 
high and stands upon a granite base; the monument's total 
height is 25 feet. Washington Square and City Hall Park 
are other parts of the park system. Luna Park is a popular 
amusement center (reached by Luna Park car line). 

Alum Rock Park, seven miles to the east, is a wonderland 
where Nature is seen at its best. This is a city park, and the 
visitor to San Jose should not fail to see it; it is easily 
reached by electric car or automobile. The tract covers an 
area of 1,000 acres of mountain and canyon. The Alum Rock 
Canyon, through which flows the Penilencia creek, is situated 
between mountains which rise to the north to the height of 
2,114 feet above sea-level, and to the south to 1,889 feet. The 
creek is lined with s^^camore, madrona, laurel and oak trees. 
There are sixteen mineral springs in the canyon, with waters 
differing in composition. There are hot and cold springs, 
containing sulphur, soda, iron, magnesia, arsenic and various 
compounds. The city has made many improvements in Alum 
Rock Park, including the laying out of attractive Avalks and 
drives, the erection of a restaurant and the building of plunge 
and tub baths. There are also deer paddocks, a bear den and 
an aviarj''. An object of interest is Alum Rock, a pinnacle 
towering over the canyon. The Meteor, w^hich is partially im- 
bedded in the earth, is a curiosity. On the way to Alum Rock 
are the Linda Vista golf links and a large ostrich farm. 

There are many attractive side trips about San Jose. The 
lines of the Peninsular Railway (electric) extend through a 
large region to the west. One route of this railway runs north- 



93 

west through Meridian (5^^), Cupertino (3i/^), Monta Vista 
(1) and thence along the route already described (see under 
Mayfield), through Los Altos (51/2) to May field (4), and thence 
to Palo Alto iiy2). Another Peninsular Railway trip which is 
popular with tourists is that describing a "loop," beginning 
at San Jose and ending there, after a picturesque ride through 
the foothills to the west. This route is through Meridian, 
where it turns southwest to Moreland, continuing Ihrougli 
Saratoga to CONGRESS SPRINGS (Congress Hall, $2). This 
is a favorite recreation ground situated in a picturesque foot- 
hill canyon; the mineral springs add to the value as 
a resort. Congress Springs is a point of departure for Califor- 
nia Redwood Park (Big Basin), distant 18 miles by trail (guide 
at hotel, by appointment). From Congress Springs the elec- 
tric railway runs to Los Gatos (described under Route 4, be- 
low) and thence northeast through Campbell, Hamilton and 
Fairfield to San Jose. Other delightful rides by electric lines 
are to Santa Clara and its Mission and to Alum Rock Park. 

A favorite drive by carriage or automobile is to Berryessa, 
a short distance northeast of San Jose; the road runs through 
a model fruit region. The so-called "Triangle" is a magnifi- 
cent valley and foothill drive, running through Santa Clara 
and Sunnyvale to Mountain View, returning to San Jose 
through Cupertino, Los Gatos, Campbell, the Dry Creek road 
and the Willows. There are short automobile drives out of 
San Jose to the north, reaching Alviso (Port San Jose), where 
there are yachting, fishing, rowing and bathing; beyond is 
Saline City (Drawbridge), where there are good fishing and 
hunting. Drives to the southeast reach Lomas Azules, Ever- 
green and Edenvale, places of beautiful homes and fine 
orchards. 

The New Almaden trip can be made by either of two 
routes over the lines of the Southern Pacific Company. The 
first route is from San Jose through Campbell (4) and Thona 
(6) to New Almaden (5). The second is through Hillsdale (5) 
and Greystone (6) to New Almaden (2), The New Almaden 
quicksilver mines are worth traveling far to see. They are 
famous for having produced the largest amount of quicksilver 
of all American mines. They were named after the equally 
noted Almaden quicksilver mines of Spain. The extent of the 
operations which have been carried on here for many years 
may be judged by the fact that here are over eighty miles of 
tunnels. The Hacienda at New Almaden is among the pic- 
turesque villages of California. The recent discovery of new 
deposits of cinnabar near here assures the growth of the 
quicksilver industry in Santa Clara county. 



94 

San Jose is also the point of departure for Mount Hamilton 
and the Lick Observatory. The observatory is 13 miles east 
from San Jose as the crow flies, but 27 miles by road. A daily 
stage runs from the city to the observatory, making the trip up 
the mountain in 5i/4 hours, and the return in 4 hours. The 
road to the observatory is one of the best mountain roads in 
the state and is excellent for automobile travel; it passes 
through some of the most beautiful of mountain scenery. 
Luncheon and dinner are had at Santa Ysabel (Santa Ysabel 
Hotel, $2 per day), near Smith Creek, This is a fishing and 
hunting resort popular with summer visitors. 

LICK OBSERVATORY is situated on the summit of Mount 
Hamilton, 4,209 feet above sea level. Its white domes are 
visible from all portions of the Santa Clara Valley. The 
observatory was endowed by James Lick with $750,00*0. His 
body lies buried under the great telescope, which is the second 
largest refracting telescope in the world. The Lick Observa- ■ 
tory is open to the public; visitors are allowed to look through 
the large telescope on Saturday evenings only. A day trip is 
well worth while, however, as the equipment of astronomical 
instruments is complete and interesting. The many photo- 
graphs of the moon, stars, planets and other phenomena of 
the skies are likewise instructive. The Lick Observatory is 
a part of the University of California. 



4. San Jose to Santa Cruz 

This route, while not on the "Coast Line" of the Southern 
Pacific running direct to Los Angeles, may be taken without 
a long detour, as the main line may be reached again at Wat- 
sonville Junction (Pajaro). The trip to Santa Cruz is en- 
joyable, because of the mountain and ocean scenery and the 
attractions of the city of Santa Cruz. The journey from San 
Jose through Gilroy, Watsonville Junction and Castroville 
is described under Route 5. Santa Cruz can be reached from 
this line also, as a side trip from Watsonville Junction. 

The Santa Cruz branch of the Southern Pacific runs south- 
west from San Jose through Campbell (4), a pretty orchard 
town, to Los Gatos (6). 

LOS GAT'OS, "the Gem City of the Foothills," is situated 
at the mouth of a deep and picturesque canyon, which divides 
the city in half. A massive bridge of stone, steel and con- 
crete arches the canyon and joins the two sections of the 



95 

city. Los Gatos has many beautiful residences, built in the 
canyons and on the hillsides, from 350 to 1,500 feet above sea 
level. The population of the city is about 3,500, but there 
are always many visitors, as Los Gatos is popular as a sum- 
mer and winter resort. (Hotel Lyndon, A. P. $2.50, E. P. $1.) 

Los Gatos contains several parks and plazas which afford 
pleasant views over the valley and its orchards. The public 
buildings include a Public Library (with 5,510 volumes) and 
a High School, of attractive mission architecture. The No- 
vitiate of the Sacred Heart, a Jesuit training college, with 
several imposing buildings, holds a commanding situation on 
the hillside above the city. The view from the large bridge 
(near the railway station) down into the canyon of Los Gatos 
creek is impressive. 

There are many inviting trips about Los Gatos. The road 
up the Los Gatos canyon toward Santa Cruz is popular with 
automobilists and walking parties. Alma Soda Springs, Con- 
gress Mineral Springs, Nippon Mura and Saratoga are popular 
resorts within easy reach. Most of the side trips described 
under San Jose (see Route 3) may be taken from Los Gatos 
by electric railway or automobile. Tramping and hunting in 
the mountains above the city are popular diversions in the 
summer months. Tliese highlands once were infested by 
many small mountain lions or wildcats, which caused the 
early Spanish settlers to give the name Los Gatos (The Cats) 
to the locality. These animals have entirely disappeared 
from the vicinity, though the hunter may still find them oc- 
casionally in the higher Santa Cruz Mountains. 

The railroad continues from Los Gatos on the ascent of 
the rugged mountain range, passing through Lyndon (2), 
Alma (1) and Eva (3) to Wright (1), v/hence a road leads to 
The Willows, a popular summer resort, situated at an altitude 
of 1,800 feet above sea level. From Wright the route enters 
SANTA CRUZ COUNTY at Laurel. Santa Cruz is the smallest 
county in area in the state, outside of San Francisco, covering 
but 435 square miles. In shape the county forms a rude cres- 
cent, reaching from the Santa Cruz Mountains to the ocean 
and Monterey Bay, The scenery of both the mountain and 
coast regions is famous. The county is popular with tourists 
and summer campers, many thousands sojourning here every 
year. The principal agricultural industries are carried on in 
the wonderfully fertile Pajaro Valley in the south. This is 
one of the most celebrated apple-growing regions in the West, 



96 

Horticulture and floriculture are important industries in many 
parts of Santa Cruz county. Dairying and lumbering are 
carried on in the mountain regions, while commercial deep- 
sea fishing is another great resource. The population of the 
county in 1910 was 26,140. The Spanish name Santa Cruz 
signifies "Holy Cross." 

The Southern Pacific line from Laurel runs through beau- 
tiful mountain scenery to Glenwood (1^/^). (Glen wood Hotel, 
$2 up.) Near here are the picturesquely situated town of 
Skyland and the Hotel de Redwood. Loma Prieta (3800 feet), 
the highest point in the Santa Cruz Mountains, lies to the east. 
Throughout this mountain region there is excellent hunting 
for quail and deer in season, as well as fishing in the torren- 
tial creeks. There is much timberland, covered with red- 
wood, madrona, pine and other trees, making the Santa Cruz 
Mountain region most delightful for summer "camping out.'' 

The route from Glenvv'ood thi'ough Zayante (4) to Eccles 
(2) and thence to Mount Hermon (2). Here is a reservation 
of 400 acres of giant redwoods, a mountain resort owned by 
an association representing the Presbyterian Church. Prom 
here the railroad runs to FELTON (1). This is a junction 
point whence the line runs to Boulder Creek, near the Big 
Basin Redwood Park. (This side trip is described under 
Section a of the route.) Felton is a shipping point for the 
vineyards and orchards of the surrounding mountain and hill 
region. (Grand Central Hotel, $1.50.) Many popular resorts 
are located in the vicinity. 

From Felton the main route coniinues to Big Trees station 
(1). Here is a grove of giant redwoods which are even larger 
than those in Big Basin. This is known as Fremont Grove, 
because of the fact that General Fremont and a body of sol- 
diers camped here for several months in the winter of 1848, 
sheltered in a great hollow tree. Many of the sequoias here 
have their lowest branches 75 to 100 feet above the ground. 
"Giant," the largest tree in the grove, is 306 feet high and 
64 feet in circumference. This is the most easily accessible 
of any of the groves of big trees in California. The park con- 
tains twenty acres. 

From the Big Trees the railroad extends down the San 
Lorenzo canyon, past the great Dupont Powder Works (4), 
one of the largest in the West, employing 300 men. There 
are many lime kilns along this route, the production of 
lime and the manufacture of Portland cement being important 
industries of Santa Cruz county. After passing the powder 
works the city of Santa Cruz is reached (2). 




Route from San Jose to Santa Cru: 



98 

SANTA CRUZ is picturesquely situated at the upper end 
of Monterey Bay. The population is over 12,000. Santa Cruz 
is an old mission town, but the mission, founded in 1791, has 
disappeared. A memorial arch stands on its former site be- 
fore the present Catholic church. The myrtle-covered bury- 
ing ground of the mission is one remaining relic of the past. 
A settlement called Branciforte was established near the mis- 
sion in 1797 on the site of the present city. Though chiefly 
known as a seaside resort, Santa Cruz is growing along com- 
mercial and industrial lines. There are important manufac- 
tures and the harbor improvements are being increased. The 
public library is a handsome building, containing a collection 
of over 15,000 volumes. The United States postoffice is an- 
other imposing structure. The city possesses Laveaga Park, 
a magnificent recreation ground on the headlands, as well as 
a number of smaller parks and plazas. Laveaga Park, still 
in its natural beauty, embraces an area of 565 acres; from 
here a commanding view is had. 

The greatest attraction in Santa Cruz is the seashore. 
The beach is of smooth white sand, firmly packed, which pro- 
vides excellent surf bathing at all seasons of the year. A 
splendid Casino (costing over $800,000), offers many forms 
of amusement. There is a bathing pavilion, as well as a 
great pleasure pier. In conjunction with the Casino, is oper- 
ated the Casa Del Rey, a popular tourist hotel. A point of 
much interest along the beach is the wharf, the center of the 
extensive deep-sea fishing industry. At the wharf can be hired 
boats, with expert fishermen as guides. A board walk leads 
from the Casino to the mouth of the San Lorenzo River, to 
the east. Monterey Bay is particularly famed for its king 
salmon fishing, but many barracuda, yellowtail, smelt, sea 
bass, bonita, sole, flounder, kingfish, halibut, rock cod, pom- 
pano and some tuna are caught. Practically every kind of 
fish native to California's shores is found in the waters of the 
bay. Boating and yachting on the bay and San Lorenzo River 
are popular amusements. The Casa del Rey golf links 
(18-hole course) are among the best on the Pacific Coast, and 
the situation is ideal. 

The walks and rides in and about Santa Cruz are pleasant. 
The trip to the Fremont Big Tree Grove (6 miles) is popular, 
many reaching the grove by train and returning on foot 
through San Lorenzo Canyon. Inspiration Point, an elevation 
commanding a view of the bay, hills and the city, is reached by 
Ocean Cliff cars. (Get off at Highland avenue and walk to the 
point.) The Ocean Cliff car follows a scenic route, reaching 
Garfield Park and Cliff Museum, Swan ton Park, Arch Rock, the 
lighthouse on Santa Cruz Point and Seacroft. Another attract- 



99 

ive trolley-trip is to Seabright, Twin Lakes, Santa Maria del 
Mar, the cars leaving corner of Pacific and Soquel avenues 
(civic center). 

There are many excellent hotels in Santa Cruz, as well as 
the seaside and mountain resorts within easy reach of the 
city. Among the leading hotels are: Hotel Casa Del Rey, 
E. P. $2; Riverside Hotel, A. P. $2 up (see advertising sec- 
tion); Hotel Hageman, $2; Hotel Waldo, E. P. $1 up; Pope 
House, $2.50; Santa Cruz Plotel, A. P. $2 up; Sea Beach Hotel, 
A. P. $3 up; St. George Hotel, A. P. $3 up, E. P. $1.50 up. 

The Cliff Drive is a picturesque boulevard leading west- 
ward along the coast for miles. TTie Blackburn Gulch and 
Scott's Valley roads are scenic routes to the north of Santa 
Cruz. In Blackburn Gulch is the Santa Cruz Mountain 
Winery, where the cellars are tunneled in the solid rock, main- 
taining uniform temperature throughout the year. Pleasant 
walks and drives take the visitor to the neighboring seaside 
resorts of Seabright, Twin I^akes and Capitcla. North of Cap- 
itola is Soquel (1), a picturesque agricultural village. Most 
of the roads about Santa Cruz are ideal for motoring, popular 
automobile trips being those over the mountains by way of 
Soquel and Wright to San Jose, and also that along the coast 
to the west. This latter route follows the general course of 
the Ocean Shore Railway and the Davenport branch of the 
Southern Pacific. 

From Santa Cruz the Ocean Shore Railway runs a line 
northward along the coast through Rapetti (2) to Davenport 
(11). Thence this route extends through Davenport Landing 
(2) and Folger (1) to Swanton (2). This is the present ter- 
minus, but the line is to be extended north to meet the 
northern division of this road in San Mateo County. The 
Davenport branch of the Southern Pacific follows the coast 
line through Orby (2) and Godola (5) to Davenport (4). Near 
DAVENPORT is the great plant of the Santa Cruz Portland 
Cement Company, one of the largest In the United States, 
employing 500 men. There are also large lumber mills and 
bituminous rock quarries. The rock is used as paving ma- 
terial. Northeast of Davenport is the resort town of Bonnie 
Doon, at the base of Ben Lomond. 

The trip from Santa Cruz to Monterey is described later 
under Section b of this route; the first part of this route (as 
far as Watsonville Junction) is that followed by tourists to 
Los Angeles. 

Appended are the side trips from the route from San Jose 
to Santa Cruz. They are (a) from Felton to Boulder Creek, 
and (b) from Santa Cruz to Monterey. 



100 



( a ) From Felton to Boulder Creek 

The branch line of the Southern Pacific Railroad from Fel- 
ton extends northwest along the beautiful San Lorenzo river, 
reaching the town of BEN LOMOND (4), a charming resi- 
dential point at the base of Ben Lomond (2,500 feet). Hotel 
Ben Lomond, $2.50 up; The Dickenson, $2.50; Hotel Rowar- 
dennan, $2.50 up; (see advertising pages). The Rowardennan 
hotel is situated on the river, three miles from the Santa 
Cruz Big Trees and twelve from the California State Redwood 
Park. The Legislature has provided for the construction of 
a new road into the Redwood Park, but the present road pro- 
vides a good route for automobiles, Ben Lomond and Row- 
ardennan are points of departure for other resorts in the 
Santa Cruz Mountains. 

The railroad runs from Ben Lomond through Siesta (1) to 
Brookdale (1). At this place is situated the Santa Cruz 
County Fish Hatchery, where many million salmon and trout 
eggs are hatched annually to stock the mountain streams that 
empty into Monterey Bay. F^om Brookdale the line extends 
to the terminus, the town of Boulder Creek (2), situated in a 
region of great scenic charm at the point where Boulder 
Creek, a mountain stream, joins the San Lorenzo River. 
(Commercial Hotel, A. P. $2.50.) The stage road leading 
to the California State Redwood Park (Big Basin) follows the 
course of the creek northwest 7 miles. 

TTie park is situated in v/hat is known as Big Basin, and 
includes 3800 acres. It was set apart by the state in 1902 as 
a public reserve. It contains some of the finest redwoods 
(Sequoia Sempervirens). While not the big tree (Sequoia 
Gigantea) of the scientists, which grows only in the Sierras, 
these redwoods are immense. Many specimens measure 25 
feet in diameter and 300' feet in height each. 



(b) Santa Cruz to Monterey 

From the city of Santa Cruz the Southern Pacific line runs 
southeast through Seabright (1), Twin Lakes (1) and Del 
Mar (1), to Capitola (2), an ideal seaside resort, with cottage 
city and camp sites. (Hotel Capitola, $3 up.) The route con- 
tinues to Aptos (3), Here there are stock farms, where some 
famous trotting horses were bred. From here is reached the 
town of Loma Prieta by a branch line lo the north. The route 
extends from Aptos to Watsonville (11). 



101 

WATSONVILLE is a city of 5000 people in the fruit ship- 
ping center of the fertile Pajaro Valley. (Hotel Appleton, A. 
P. $3, E. P. $1; Mansion House, $2.) The city has a public 
library and other handsome public buildings. The large Wat- 
sonville pavilion (110 by 220 feet) is used for exhibition pur- 
poses, especially to house the annual apple show. The Pajaro 
Valley is one of the largest apple-producing regions in the 
world. Berries, sugar beets and choice vegetables are grown 
'on a large scale. Tliere are four beautiful lakes in this 
valley, near Watsonville, where there is good fishing, and 
hunting for wild ducks in season. Auto roates from Watson- 
ville include runs to Moss Landing, Dumbarton and Chitten- 
den; from the latter two can be reached the old Mission San 
Juan Bautista. 

From Watsonville the route reaches (2) Watsonville Junc- 
tion (Pajaro), where it joins the main line of the Southern 
Pacific until it comes to Castroville (10), where it turns south- 
west to Del Monte, Monterey and Pacific Grove. This latter 
stage of the journey is described under Route 5, San Jose to 
Monterey, where the Monterey Peninsula and its attractions 
are treated in detail. 



5. San Jose to Monterey 

This route is along the main line of the Southern Pacific 
as far as Castroville, where a short branch runs to Monterey, 
Pacific Grove and Del Monte. While these communities are 
not on the direct route from San Francisco to Los Angeles, 
every traveler in California is urged to visit them. The Mon- 
terey peninsula contains some remarkable scenic attractions, 
and the region is rich in romantic associations. 

The railroad (Coast Line of the Southern Pacific) runs 
from San Jose southeast in a fertile valley orchard region 
through Hillsdale (5), Edenvale (2), Coyote (5), Perry (4), 
and Madrone (2), to Morgan Hill (2), a growing orchard town 
with a fruit packing house and cannery. From here the route 
extends through San Martin (4) to Gilroy (6). GILROY is 
one of the oldest cities in the Santa Clara Valley and is the 
shipping center of the southern part of the valley. (Central 
Hotel, $2; Southern Pacific Hotel, $2.) The rich surrounding 
territory produces large quantities of hay, grain, vegetables, 
dairy products and live stock. Near here are the largest seed 



102 

farms. The population is about 3,500 and the town is grow- 
ing steadily. In the Mount Hamilton spur of the Coast 
Range, to the eastward, is the popular health resort, Gilroy 
Hot Springs (14), situated at an elevation of 1-240 feet. (Gilroy 
Hot Springs Hotel, $3 up.) From Gilroy the Tres Pinos 
branch of the Southern Pacific Company runs southeast into 
San Benito county, reaching HoUister and Tres Pinos. This 
attractive side trip is described below under Section a of this 
Route. 

From Gilroy the main line runs to Sargent (6), whence an- 
other side trip is made by stage to the old Mission San Juan 
Bautista, one of the best preserved of the early Franciscan 
establishments. This trip is described below under Section b 
of this Route. 

The railroad continues from Sargent through Chittenden 
(5), Aromas (3) and Vega (2) to Watsonville Junction (3), 
formerly known as Pajaro. From here the traveler can take 
a side trip northwest through Watsonville to Santa Cruz (see 
under Route 4b). After passing Aromas the traveler has en- 
tered Monterey County. 

MONTEREY COUNTY contains some of the most beautiful 
-coast and mountain scenery in the state. Moreover, this re- 
gion has probably the most historic and romantic associations 
of any in California, The area is 3,330 square miles, with 
large valleys set in the rolling hills and rugged mountains. 
The principal valleys are the Salinas and Pajaro Valleys, the 
former extending the length of the county. The population 
of Monterey County in 1910 was 24,146; at the previous census 
it was 19,380. The most important agricultural products are 
sugar beets, potatoes, fruit and grain. Dairying and cattle- 
raising are leading industries. There are many summer and 
winter resorts in Monterey County, both on the ocean and in- 
land, that are popular with tourists. 

Watsonville Junction (Pajaro), is a railroad r-enter and is 
of importance as a shipping point for that part of Pajaro Val- 
ley lying in Monterey County. From here the line runs 
through Elkhorn (6) to Castroville (4i/^). This is a consider- 
able farm center, with a population of 800. Two miles from 
the town are two curious lakes, the source of whose water 
supply is unknown. 

From Castroville the main Coast Line continues southeast 
up the Salinas Valley, while the route to Monterey extends 
southwest. The former is described under Route 6 of this 
book, Monterey to San Luis Obispo. 



103 

The line to Del Monte and Monterey runs from Castro- 
vllle through Nashua (2), Neponset (1) and Bardin (2) to 
SEASIDE (S). This picturesQue little town occupies a de- 
lightful situation on Monterey Bay and is growing in favor as 
u. summer resort. To the east of the town are Del Monte 
Heights and Vista Del Mar. From Seaside the railroad con- 
tinues to Del Monte (1), noted as the location of the Hotel 
Del Monte. 

HOTEL DEL MONTE, one of the famous resorts on the 
Pacific Coast, is an immense building of Swiss architecture^ 
containing over 500 rooms. This is one of the headquarters 
of pleasure seekers at all seasons. The grounds of the hotel 
form a magnificent park, which is open to visitors. The 125 
acres of lawns and flower beds are the result of more than a 
quarter of a century of landscape gardening. The grounds 
contain 1,366 different varieties of plant life; there are 78 va- 
rieties of coniferous trees, 210 varieties of- evergreen trees 
and shrubs, 114 of deciduous trees and shrubs, 285 of herbace- 
ous plants and 90 varieties of roses. In the Arizona garden 
the are 63 different kinds of cactus, besides other desert 
plants. Near the rose garden is a replica of the famous maze 
at Hampton Court, England, The opportunities for sport are 
varied. There are an eighteen-hole golf course, a clock golf 
course, bitumen tennis courts (where the championship games 
of the Pacific Coast are contested), polo grounds, bowling 
green and fields for archery, quoits and croquet. The Del 
Monte bath-house affords excellent bathing in warm salt wa- 
ter; there are here a long, sandy beach and a pleasure pier. 
The scenic boulevards about Del Monte and Monterey afford 
delight to the automobilist; the famous Seventeen-Mile Drive 
begins and ends at Del Monte. Another feature of Del Monte 
is the Art Gallery, where the works of leading California 
painters, sculptors, etchers and artist-photographers are dis- 
played. (Hotel Del Monte, A. P. $4 to $6.) 

Prom Del Monte the route extends to the old city of Monte- 
rey. MONTEREY is without question one of the most inter- 
esting places in California and should be visited by every 
tourist. The city occupies an attractive position on the shore 
of the Bay of Monterey and its strategic position promises 
considerable commercial importance with the construction of 
railroad lines to the interior, which are planned. Monterey's 
trade by sea is already extensive, more than 500,000 tons of 
freight being shipped annually. The population of the city 
in 1910 was 4,923; in 1900 it was J, 749. Tliere are now about 
3 0,000 people within the city and its suburbs. (The Monterey, 
$2.50 up; Central House, $1.50 up.) 



104 

To the tourist, Monterey is interesting chiefly because of 
its historic associations and many old landmarl^s. Monterey 
was the capital of California from 1770 until 1849. The history 
of this region begins with 1602. when Sebastian Vizcaino 
dropped anchor in the bay, December 16. He named it after 
his patron, the Count de Monterey, viceroy of Mexico. He 
sailed for the north January 3, 1603. In 1606 Philip III., King 
of Spain, ordered Monterey to be occupied, and provision 
made there to succor and refit ships sailing to and from the 
Philippines; but his orders were not carried out, and the citj'' 
was not founded until over a century and a half later. In 1770 
Don Caspar de Portola and Father Junipero Serra arrived and 
began the settlement, the governor establishing his residence 
there. Monterey was visited by Vancouver in 1792, and in 
1796 the first American ship touched at the port. When the 
province of California was declared a part of Mexico in 1822, 
Monterey continued the capital, as well as after the revolution 
of 1836, when the attempt of the Californians to become inde- 
pendent of Mexico ended in compromise. In 1846 the town 
was captured by the Americans and the flag raised over the 
Custom House. Under the American regime, Monterey held 
for a short time its political eminence. On September 1, 1849, 
the first constitutional convention was held in Colton Hall 
and the foundation laid for the entrance of California into the 
Union. Though bereft of its former position as the seat of 
government, Monterey has always attracted visitors. Many 
famous men have been residents of the city and its vicinity. 
Among those whose names are associated with this region are 
Robert Louis Stevenson, Bret Harte, Mark Twain, Joaquin 
Miller, Ambrose Bierce, Commodore Sloat, Commodore Stock- 
ton, General Fremont and General Sherman. 

The historic buildings are numerous and interesting. The 
old Custom House is probably the most notable. This old 
Spanish building, constructed of adobe, is in excellent pres- 
ervation; it is situated on the bay close to the car tracks. 
Here the American flag was first officially raised in Califor- 
nia, July 7, 1846, by Commodore Sloat. The flag had previous- 
ly been raised without authority by Fremont on the peak bear- 
ing his name near San Juan Bautista (see Section b under 
this Route), March 11, 1846. Colton Hall, in which was held 
the first constitutional assembly of California, 1849, is another 
interesting structure. This building was erected by Walter 
Colton, the first American clergyman, judge and editor in Cal- 
ifornia; he was alcalde of Monterey. Colton Hall is under the 
protection of a board of trustees appointed by the state au- 
thorities to preserve this historic landmark. To Californians 
the building holds especial interest, since it was here that the 



105 

first State Constitution was formulated. Tiie old adobe opera 
house, the first theater in the state, was built in 1847. Jenny 
Lind sang here in the early days. The son and daughter of the 
Swedish Nightingale recently came all the way from England 
to pay their devotions at this shrine. The little building which 
served as the first United States postoffice in California is 
nearby. The ship Natalie, that bore the First Napoleon to 
Elba, was wrecked in Monterey Bay. The skeleton of the ves- 
sel may be seen at low tide not far from the shore. 

Several buildings in Monterey are known as the first of 
their kind in California. The first brick iiouse in the state, 
built in 1847, is still standing. Nearby is the first timber 
house, put up in 1849, built of lumber brought from Australia. 
T'he first theater and the first postoffice have already been 
mentioned. Another interesting landmark is the old Washing- 
ton Hotel, built in 1832. Near it is the Stevenson house, an 
attraction to lovers of the author's works. It was during the 
latter part of 1879 that Robert Louis Stevenson sojourned at 
this place. The home of Governor Alvarado is a low adobe 
building, shaded by the trees distinctive of the peninsula; Al- 
varado was the Governor of California from 1836 to 1842. The 
Hall of Records, in the poetical Spanish language called "the 
House of the Four Winds," was built in 1824. Not far dis- 
tant is the home of the first American consul, Thomas O. Lar- 
kin. The old San Carlos Church, the parish church of Monte- 
rey, is a point of unusual attention. It is not, property speak- 
ing, a mission, though it greatly resembles many of the mis- 
sion structures, especially the San Carlos del Carmelo, or 
Carmel Mission. It is often confused with the latter because 
of the similarity of name and the fact that the Monterey 
church stands on the first site of the mission before it was 
moved to Carmel. Among the ecclesiastical relics of Monterey 
are the ruins of a convent, built in 1797, which can still be 
traced. On every side are to be seen other reminders of the 
early history of California. Romantic interest attaches to the 
Sherman Rose, bringing to mind a love affair of the hero of 
the March to the Sea, while he was a young lieutenant at the 
Monterey Presidio; he planted it in the yard* of the home of 
his sweetheart, Senorita Bonifacio. 

The Presidio of Monterey was founded by Portola in 1770 
and served as a military post under Spanish and Mexican 
rule. After American occupation it continued to be garrisoned 
but was unimportant until the Spanish-American war. Since 
then it has been greatly enlarged and has been maintained 
as a ten-company post, the troops stationed here being for 
the most part bound for Hawaii and the Philippines, or return- 



106 

ing from the islands. The total population of the Presidio, 
military and civilian, is approximately 1,200. From the heights 
of the United States Military Reservation an extended view 
is had over the bay and the city. Here is a monument to 
Junipero Serra, the pioneer Franciscan father, commemorat- 
ing his landing in 1770 to found the San Carlos Mission. It 
was erected by Mrs. Leland Stanford in 1891. Near the en- 
trance to the Presidio is a cross, p'aced by James A. Murray, 
marking the landing place of the padre. Along the heights 
there are a number of obsolete cannon, pointing seaward. In 
the Presidio also is the Sloat Monument, constructed of stones 
from every county in the state, commemorating the landing 
of Commodore Sloat in 1846. 

The beach of Monterey is popular with sea-lovers. The 
clean, white strand fronts the entire bay shore. TTie fishing 
industry is an interesting feature of the water-front. There 
are more than 150 species of food fish in Monterey Bay. The 
bay is the extreme southern habitat of the cold water fish, 
and the northern limit of the run of the warm water fish. This 
produces the great variety of marine life found in these 
waters. The steelhead trout, salmon, barracuda, yellowtail, 
sea-bass and skip-jack and even the tuna are taken here. 
Monterey was formerly the center of the whaUng industry on 
the Pacific Coast; even yet these huge denizens of the deep 
may sometimes be seen disporting in the waters of Monterey 
Bay. 

Beyond the Presidio is New Monterey, and adjoining this 
is PACIFIC GROVE, a city of 3,000 inhabitants, a growing 
residence city and noted as a summer and winter resort. It 
is situated on the hills and rocky cliffs of the outer peninsula, 
but is well sheltered. Behind it are the woods which gave it 
its name. Founded in 1869 as a camp meeting ground, it later 
became a permanent colony, the Pacific Coast Chautauqua be- 
ing held here; this is still the location of its annual sessions. 
Among the other conventions held here regularly are those 
of the Women's Christian Temperance Union, the Methodist 
Episcopal Church California Conference, the Itinerants' Club 
of the Conference, and the Students' Conference of the Young 
Men's Christian Association. During the summer season at 
Pacific Grove the visitors increase the population to 10,000. 
Summer cottages and tents may be rented at reasonable 
rates; the Pacific Grove Hotel (A. P. $2.50 to $4) and Del Mar 
Hotel ($1.50) are also popular with vacationists. 

Pacific Grove has many sheltered beaches, and these pleas- 
ant coves are among the safest bathing places. Here is sit- 
uated the Seaside Laboratory of Stanford University and the 



107 

University of California will spend $250,000 on its marine lab- 
oratories, fo]- which it has purchased an eight-acre site. The 
Public Museum is a point of unusual interest. It contains a 
collection of 10,000 specimens of California flora and fauna, 
mainly collected about the bay and the Monterey peninsula. 
The collection of mounted marine animals is one of the finest 
in the "West. 

Glass-bottomed boats at Pacific Grove furnish unending de- 
light for visitors. The clear waters along the coast form a 
great aquarium and through the windows which take the 
place of keels in these boats one may look down and observe 
the denizens of the deep in their native element. Tlie marine 
gardens, with their sea-mosses and kelp, are to be matched 
only by those of Santa Catalina island. The strange rock 
formations and the infinite variety of sea-life seen from the 
glass-bottomed boats add to the charm of the gardens. Santa 
Catalina (Avalon) is the only place on the Pacific Coast be- 
sides Pacific Grove where the wonders of the ocean floor are 
seen by means of glass-bottomed boats. Although the marine 
gardens off the Monterey peninsula have been generally 
known only a few years, they have already become noted. 

Pacific Grove has several noteworthy public buildings, in- 
cluding the Public Ijibrary and the High School. A feature 
of the school system is the chain of public playgrounds. At 
Lover's Point there is a large bath-house, besides a beach. 
The Japanese Tea Garden here is another popular attraction. 
West of Pacific Grove is Point Pinos (Pine Point), on which 
there is a large government light-house. This point was 
named Punta de los Pinos by Vizcaino in 1602. Annually, in 
July. Pacific Grove holds its Lantern Festival, when land and 
water are lighted in the evening; at this season promenade 
band concerts are given. 

The Monterey peninsula has many attractions outside of 
the cities on its northern shore. These cannot be claimed 
for any one of them alone, since they are reached with equal 
facility from Monterey, Pacific Grove or Del Monte. The 
scenic drives on the peninsula make accessible all of these 
attractions. The drives, including those recently completed, 
total over fifty miles of excellent highway. T'he original 
Seventeen-Mile Drive is well known, and the new Scenic 
Boulevard offers vistas of hills, woods and the sea which are 
no less beautiful. 

The Seventeen-Mile Drive begins at Monterey and runs 
through Monterey and Pacific Grove to Moss Beach, where 
there are beautiful sea-mosses to be gathered, and along 



108 

whose shores extend the white sand dunes. From here are 
passed Point Joe and Restless Sea and a little farther on the 
road skirts the coast opposite the Seal Rocks, which com- 
prise the largest seal rookeries on the Pacific Coast. Farther 
out to sea are the Bird Rocks, about which swarm hundreds 
of gulls and other water-fowl. The drive continues between 
the white sand dunes and the sea along Fan Shell Beach to 
Cypress Point. On this point and in the grove farther on 
grow the Monterey cypress, which are found nowhere else in 
the world than on the Monterey peamsula. These trees are 
many of them several thousand years old; they somewhat re- 
semble in form the cedars of Lebanon and the flat-topped 
cypress trees of Japan. It is believed that the seeds of these 
trees were swept across the Pacific from Japan by ocean cur- 
rents. The only groves of Monterey cypress are the one near 
Cypress Point and another on Point Lobos, south of Carmel 
Bay. A remarkable formation on Cypress Point is the so- 
called Ostrich Tree, in reality two cedar trees blown by the 
force of the winds into a strange shape, somev/hat resembling 
an ostrich. From here the road leads through the Cypress 
Grove, covering a tract of limited area. In this grove is the 
fabled Itzapa Spring, to which Indian and Spanish legends .at- 
tributed the powers of the Fountain of Youth. Just be- 
yond is Midway Point, with its strange rock formations which 
from certain angles appear like ruined battlements, giving 
to one part the name of Loreleys' Castle. Beyond here are 
popular picnic grounds; the drive extends around Pes- 
cadero Point to Pebble Beach, where the Pebble Beach Lodge 
is operated by the management of the Hotel Del Monte. There 
are many attractive country homes at Pebble Beach; to the 
east there is an excellent bathing beach. Arch Rock juts out 
of Carmel Bay opposite here. From Pebble Beach the Seven- 
teen-Mile Drive continues past Promontory Point and then 
crosses the peninsula by way of Pescadero Canyon and Car- 
mel Hill to Monterey, and thence to Del Monte. 

The Scenic Boulevard diffeis from the Seventeen-Mile 
Drive in that it is farther inland, winding through the forests 
and along the heights of the peninsula. From Pacific Grove 
it passes near little Lake Majeila and continues along the 
hills, presenting sweepmg views over the Pacific Ocean, Car- 
mel Bay and the Bay of Monterey. The highest elevation on 
the route is 870 feet above sea-level. 

There are many delightful side trips from Monterey, in- 
cluding rides by electric car to Seaside, Del Monte and Pacific 
Grove. By stage are reached Carmel and the coast to the 
south. (See next page.) 



109 

CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA lies across the peninsula from 
Monterey, on the picturesque curve of Carmel bay. (Pine Inn, 
A. P. $2 and $?>.) It is connected with the city by an auto- 
mobile and stape road running across the neck of the penin- 
sula. This little settlement is known widely as a literary cen- 
ter; many writers, artists and scientists have their permanent 
or summer homes here. The Forest Theater, formally in- 
augurated in ] 910, occupies an ideal situation on the hillside 
overlooking Carmel Valley and the Mission. Here are pro- 
duced pageants and plays of high artistic merit, both classical 
and by California authors. 

Along the beach of white sand which fronts the bay is ex- 
cellent bathing, and there is a bath-house as well. Other fa- 
cilities for enjoyment are the public tennis courts and the 
bowling alleys. The permanent population of Carmel is 400, 
but the summer population is over 1,000. There are a public 
library and a town hall. A point of interest near Carmel is 
the Carnegie Botanical Institute, one of the leading establish- 
ments of its kind in the country. 

TTie Carmel Mission (San Carlos Borromeo del Carmelo de 
Monterey) is situated in the Carmel Valley at the foot of the 
town. This was the second mission established in California, 
being founded by Padre Junipero Serra. The first site of the 
mission was at Monterey, where it was established June 3, 
1770. In 1771, Father Serra removed the site to the present 
location, because of the lack of water and fertile soil at Monte- 
rey. The place was called Del Carmelo from the name of the 
river nearby; Vizcaino named the stream in honor of the Car- 
melite priests who accompanied his expedition in 1602. Father 
Serra died in 1784 and his remains lie buried In the mission. 
The present building was begun in 1793 and dedicated in 1797. 
San Carlos del Carmelo was one of the most wealthy of all 
the missions, as indeed befitted the establishment where la- 
bored Father Serra and his beloved companion. Father Crespi. 
The mission is distinctive among the Franciscan establish- 
ments in its architecture; the single massive tower and the 
shape of the dome are unique. Carmel Mission departs 
also from the usual white color of the mission structures; it 
is built largely of a soft straw-colored stone, which was quar- 
ried nearby. The roof was originaHy of red tiles, but in the 
restoration shingles have taken their place. T'he mission was 
restored mainly through the efforts of Rev, Angelo Cassanova, 
pastor of Monterey, who commenced the work in 1882. Serv- 
ices are held in the mission once a month; on these occasions 
the bells in the tower are rung. 



110 

A stage road runs southward from Carmel along the coast, 
past Point Lobos, with its grove of Monterey cypress, and 
Yankee Point, to Point Sur, twenty-one miles from Monterey. 
Here is located one of the largest light-houses in the world. 
Inhere is excellent trout fishing with deer hunting in the moun- 
tains. Pico Blanco peak (3,600 feet) east of Point Sur, is the 
highest eminence in this region. Four miles from the light, 
on the Little Sur River, is Id^ewild Hotel. A mile from the 
hotel and two miles from the ocean are hot mineral springs, 
on the north fork of the Little Sur. On the ocean near here 
are Slate's Hot Springs. There are 25 mineral springs (sul- 
phur, salt and iron) with a temperature ranging from 110 to 
160 degrees. The springs are so near the ocean that sea bath- 
ing can he delightfully combined with the warm mineral baths. 
The coast scenery about the mouths of the Big Sur and Little 
Sur Rivers is particularly fine. 



( a ) Gilroy to Tres Pinos 



From Gilroy the Tres Pinos branch of the Southern Pacific 
enters SAN BENITO COUNTY. The county, with an area of 
1,392 square miles, had a population of 8,041 in 1910: in 1900 
the population was 6,633. This region received its name from 
the San Benito River (originally called the San Benedicto) 
which runs almost the whole length of the county. The val- 
leys of San Benito, San Juan, Santa Ana and Tres Pinos are 
fertile and prosperous farming and fiuit-grovving regions. Half 
of the quicksilver found in California comes from San Benito 
County. The great New Idria mine in the southeastern part 
of the county is one of the most noted in the world. It has 
been worked since 1853 and has produced millions of dollars. 
Its output is still very large. 

HOLLISTER. county seat and principal town of San Benito 
County, is situated in the heart of the San Benito Valley, a 
continuation of Santa Clara Valley. The population in 1910 
was 2,30'8, but is rapidly increasing. In J900 it was 1,315. TTie 
town has fine high school and grammar school buildings and 
a new library. The hay warehouses at Hollister are the 
largest in the world. The tcfwn is the center of the apricot 
orchard region. (Hotel Hollister, A. P. $2.50; Hotel Hartmann. 
A. P. $2.50; Western Hotel, $1.50.) 

TRES PINOS (Three Pines) is in the San Benito Valley, 
six miles south of Hollister, at the terminus of the Southern 
Pacific branch railroad of that name. It is the center of a 
great hay and grain region. In August, 1873, the band of out- 
laws under Vasquez, the most notorious bandit of California 



Ill 

after Joaquin Muricta, made a raid on Tres Pinos. They ter- 
rorized the town, killed several people and gained much booty. 
Vasquez and several of his band were ^subsequently hanged for 
this act. 

(b) Sargent to San Juan Bautista 

From Sargent is reached by stage the old Mission of San 
Juan Bautista, one of the best preserved of all the Franciscan 
establishments in California. The quaint little town of San 
Juan and Fremont's Peak, where the American flag was first 
raised in the state are other points of interest on this side 
trip. From Sargent ihe road leads south, traversing a fertile 
orchard and grain-growing country. The valley of the San 
Juan is one of the most beautiful in the state. 

SAN JUAN, six miles from Sargent, one of the oldest 
towns of California, once had a population of 2,000, but it has 
steadily declined, so that in 1910 the population was only 326; 
in 1900 it was 449. The plaza is the center of the scattered 
community. On one side are the mission buildings; on an- 
other the old hotel and the historic Castro house. On this 
plaza the American flag was raised by Captain Fremont, July 
]8, 1846, The Castro house was the home of a rich Spanish 
family prominent in the early history of CaMfornia. The most 
celebrated was General Jose Castro, commandant of the Cal- 
ifornia forces, who made it his headquarters. The house, 
which is in good repair, is a plain two-story building, with 
overhanging balcony along the front. The walls are three feet 
thick and the roof is of tiles. The garden is filled with a 
luxurious growth of plants and flowers. It is said, on uncer- 
tain authority, that General FVemont stayed a while at this 
house, though he and Castro were later arrayed in the field 
against each other. Next to the Castro house is the old hotel, 
a long, plain building with a balcony along it, erected about 
100 years ago. 

Mission San Juan Bautista, on the plaza, founded in 1797, 
is one of the best preserved in Califcirnia and is still in use as 
a parish church. The church, begun in ISOo and dedicated in 
1812, is a large building with thick adobe walls supported by 
massive buttresses on either Ride, some of them in ruins. The 
walls and ceiling are whitewashed. There is a choir-loft over 
the entrance. The baptismal font, standing three feet high, 
is of carved sandstone. The main altar, dedicated to St. John 
the Baptist, is brilliantly decorated in red, green and gold. 
There are a life-size figure of St. John and four smaller ones, 
all well executed. These figures are carved from redwood, 



112 

which proves that the work was done in California, possibly 
by the Indian converts. There are many interesting relics 
here, including old music and musical instruments, the organ 
brought from England in 1797, paintings and the vestments 
and robes of the early mission days. In the chancel, marked 
by a stone slab, is the grave of Esteban Tapis, one of the 
early presidents of the California missions, who labored here 
in his later years and died in 1825. There are two bells in 
the belfry. One is the last of a chime of nine bells, which orig- 
inally were at the mission; the other is one cast in San Fran- 
cisco, in 1874, from two of the old ones. In the belfry also is 
the old wooden contrivance used to call the people to church 
upon days when the Catholic church rings no bells. 

Next to the church is the long, low, tiled-roofed building, 
containing the rooms of the resident father. Along the front 
is the cloistered passage, with square, massive pillars and 
graceful round arches. In the garden are pear trees, planted 
over 100 years ago, which are still in bearing. An old sand- 
stone sun dial stands in the garden. It is 2% feet high. 

Mission San Juan Bautista was established June 24, 1797, 
the day dedicated to St. John the Baptist. From 1798 to 1800 
it suffered much from the attacks of Indians. In 1823 the pop- 
ulation of the mission reached its highest figure, 1,248 souls. 
TTie cemetery (campo santo) is along one side of the church. 
Here, in the space of about an acre, are buried 4,500 bodies, 
one grave above another. The view of the country toward 
the east from the cemetery is very fine. The land slopes 
away for some distance, until it reaches the foothills of the 
Mount Diablo Range. 

From San Juan may be ascended Fremont's Peak, the 
highest of the Gabilan mountains. This range runs southwest, 
forming the boundary between San Benito and Monterey 
counties. The name is a corruption of Spanish "gavilan," 
meaning "hawk." There is an excellent road to the top of 
the mountain, and the place is well worth visiting, because 
of its scenery and historical associations. The peak was as- 
cended by Captain John C. Fremont and his American troops 
(March 4, 1846), and the mountain top was fortified in defi- 
ance of the Mexican authorities. Tlie American flag was 
raised then for the first time on California soil, though without 
proper authority. Fremont remained encamped at this spot 
for three days, and then retreated toward the north, as he had 
only sixty men and was greatly outnumbered by the Califor- 
nians under Castro. Remains of the breastworks, overgrown 
with weeds, and the stump of the tree on which the flag was 



113 

raised can yet be seen. An iron flagstaff was erected here 
in 190S in commemoration of Fremont's exploit. Tlie Amer- 
ican flag was then raised by Lieutenant John C. Fremont of 
the navy, a grandson of "the Pathfinder." 

The view from Fremont's Pealv is superb — to the south 
the Salinas Valley, on the west Monterey Bay and Pajaro 
Valley, to the north the San Juan Valley, and beyond a range 
of hills the Santa Clara Valley, the view extending to Mount 
Hamilton, 50' miles away. The eastern view is of the valley 
of the San Benito, with glimpses of the great San Joaquin 
Valley through different passes. 



6. Monterey to San Luis Obispo 

From Monterey the traveler reaches Castroville, on the 
main line of the Southern Pacific. From Castroville the route 
runs up the Salinas Valley. This great valley is 100 miles long 
and has an average width of 10 miles. Tlie Salinas River 
flows the entire length. The valley is a fertile farming and 
fruit-raising district, being especially noted for the famous 
SaUnas Burbank potatoes. T'he Salinas is the largest valley 
in the Coast Range. The health-giving winds that sweep up 
the trough of the valley every day from Monterey Bay are a 
remarkable feature of this region. The railroad extends 
from Castroville southeast thi-ough Cooper (3) to Salinas (4). 

SALINAS; the county seat, is a city of about 5,000 popula- 
tion; in 1910 it had 3,738, (Abbott House, A. P. $2.50 up, E. 
P. $1 up; Oriental Hotel, A. P. $2.50 up.) It has considerable 
manufactures and the surrounding country is well developed 
agriculturally. The city has two pretty parks, a public library 
and other attractive public buildings. Every July there 
is held in Salinas the "Big Week," a carnival in which the 
departing days of the Wild West are revived. The wooded 
mountains to the west are the Santa Lucia Range, 
while those to the east of the valley are the Gabilan Range. 

From Salinas a stage road runs to Tassajara Hot Springs, 
situated in the rugged coast hills at the headwaters of the 
Carmel River. There are more than twenty springs, some 
on the rocky hillsides and some bubbling up with a tempera- 
ture of 160 degrees in Arroyo Seco. TTiey contain sulphur, 
sodium, magnesia, iron, phosphates and other minerals. From 
Salinas another road runs northeast through Santa Rita and 
by the San Juan grade to the old Mission San Juan Bautista 



114 

(16), in San Benito County (see above). The route is made 
longer, but easier, by taking the road by way of Dumbarton. 
South of the road beyond Dumbarton are some picturesque 
rock formations. 

Three miles south of Salinas is the town of SPRECKELS, 
the center of the beet-sugar industry. The Spreckels beet- 
sugar refinery here is one of the largest in the worl.d. The pro- 
cess of manufacture is wonderful, seldom, failing to interest 
visitors. Monterey County is one of the most important beet- 
sugar producing regions of the state. Spreckels is reached 
by the Pajaro Valley Consolidated Railroad, branches of the 
same system running from Salinas to the nearby towns of 
Alisal and Buena Vista. 

From Salinas the route extends through Spence (5) to 
Chular (4). This town, with a population of 150, is the center 
of an extensive grain and dairying region. From here the line 
runs through to Gonzales, a growing town of 500. one of the 
largest dairy centers of the county. From. Gonzales the route 
continues through Camphora (6) to Soledad (2^^). SOLEDAD 
one of the old mission towns, has a population of 400. It is 
the trading center for a large region devoted mainly to dairy- 
ing and beet culture. 

La Soledad Mission, properly Mission de Nuestra Senora 
de Soledad (Mission of Our Lady of Solitude), situated in a 
field four miles west of the town, is a heap of ruins. A few 
crumbling walls alone mark the spot where a flourishing 
mission settlement once stood. Nearby can be seen the re- 
mains of a vineyard, planted by the padres, one of the 
oldest in California. This lonely place was named Soledad 
(Solitude) by Governor Portola in 1769, and on October 9, 
1791, a mission was founded here by Father Lasuen. TTie 
adobe chapel was completed in 1797. 

Near the ruins of the mission, five miles from Soledad, are 
the Paraiso Hot Springs. (Paraiso Springs Hotel, $2 to $2.50.) 
In 1791 twenty acres of land, containing these springs, were 
granted to the padres, who gave it the name of Eternal Para- 
dise. The place is now a popular resort. The soda, sulphur 
and iron springs lie at an elevation of 1400 in a canyon of the 
Joothills, 

Another point of interest reached from Soledad is the na- 
tional monument knoM'n as Vancouver's Pinnacles. These 
strange geological formations are situated on the eastern bor- 
der of Monterey County. The mountains here are of volcanic 
origin and have been cleft into fantastic domes and turrets. 



115 

The walls of many of the pinnacles are 50G' feet high. This 
picturesque region embraces about ten square miles; the na- 
tional monument contains 2,080 acres. Vancouver, the famous 
navigator, while exploring this region in behalf of the British 
government, discovered this remarkable range of granite and 
basalt hills. West of Soledad is Fort Romie, one of the three 
farm colonies conducted by the Salvation Army in America. 
Another flourishing town in the vicinity is Greenfield. Alfalfa 
is the principal i)roduct of this region, though there are large 
seed farms near Greenfield, 

Tlie main route continues from Soledad along the Salinas 
through Riverbank (4), Metz (4i^) and Coburn (61/2) to KING 
CITY (5). This is a rapidly growing place of 1,200 inhab- 
itants. It is the chief trading point of the southern Salinas 
valley. The surrounding country produces much fruit and 
grain, as well as cattle. Near King City is a large gypsum 
mine. From King City a delightful stage and automobile trip 
is across the mountains to Jolon and the Mission San Antonio 
de Padua (described in detail in Section a under this route). 

From King City the Southern Pacific Coast Line continues 
southeast through Welby (3i/^) to San Lucas (5). This town 
is the center of a large grain and general farming district. 
There are also considerable grazing ranges around San Lucas. 

From San Lucas the line continues through Upland (5) to 
San Ardo (5^^). San Ardo is the distributing center for a 
rich part of the SaUnas Valley. The river is here spanned by 
a modern steel and concrete bridge. From this place the 
route leads through Wunpost (6^A) to Bradley (QV2). This 
town is the center of a rich tributary country, including 
Hames and Indian Valleys. At this point the San Antonio 
River joins the Salinas. Nacimiento, on the river of the same 
name, lies on this line 5i/^ miles south of Bradley. Near here 
the Salinas River is crossed and about two miles south the 
route enters San Luis Obispo county. 

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY has an area of 3,334 square 
miles. TTie population in 1910 was 19,383; in 1900 it was 
16,637. The agricultural products include fruits and grain and 
dairy farms are numerous. After crossing the county line 
the station of Chans^or is soon reached. From this point the 
Stone Canyon Railroad runs northeast to the Stone Canyon 
Coal Mines, which embrace an area of 2,500 acres. This is de- 
clared to be one of the largest coal deposits in the west. South 
of Chanslor is the old mission town of San Miguel, on the 
Salinas River. The mission, founded in 1797, is in excellent 



116 

preservation and should be visited. The town is in the midst 
of a rich stock and grain country. 

Mission San Miguel is but a short way from the railroad 
station. The chapel is still in use and there is a resident 
pastor. The interior decorations are especially interesting. 
The mission buildings consist of the church and a long row of 
low buildings. Tlie corridor of the building and the church 
are unusual because of the varying size and shape of the 
arches. Inside the church may be seen the original decora- 
lions and ornaments made by the Indians. The white board 
ceiling rests on massive beams. The walls are frescoed in 
blue and red-brown. The altar is high, is artistically embel- 
lished and crowned by a statue oi St. Michael, the archangel, 
patron saint of the mission. The rude pulpit is painted in 
strange blendings of dark green, dull blue and purple. All 
this decorative work was executed by the Indians, Mission 
San Miguel was founded by Father Lasuen, assisted by Father 
Buenaventura Sitjar, July 25, 1797. The present chapel was 
built in 1800. Despite the first hostility of the Indians and a 
destructive fire, the mission became prosperous. The largest 
number of neophytes was in 1814, when there were 1,076. 
Water for the mission was brought from the Santa Ysabel 
Springs by a ten-mile conduit. An adobe wall 15 feet high 
and four miles long enclosed the buildings. 

From San Miguel a road leads southeast along the Estrella 
River to the farming communities of Estrella and Bern, The 
main route leads south to Wellsona (4) and thence to Paso 
Robles (5) and the Paso Robles Hot Springs. 

PASO ROBLES (Paso Robles Hot Springs Hotel, A. P. $3 
up), the second city of San Luis Obispo County, lies east of 
the Santa Lucia Range on the Salinas River, The population 
in 1910 was 1,441, in 1900 it was 1,224. The rolling country 
around the city is dotted with oaks, which give it its Spanish 
name, which signifies "The Pass of the Oaks." The great 
hot sulphur springs are among the most famous in the world. 
There is here a great tourist hotel and sumptuous bath-house 
which is not excelled by any establishment in Europe. The 
springs include sulphur, iron, mineral, soda, lithia, mud and 
sand springs. The water is excellent for both external and in- 
tenal uses. The Indians are said to have brought their sick 
even from as far as Texas in order to make them well in 
these curative waters. The great bath-house (Kurhaus) is 
directly over the main sulphur spring, which has a flow of ap- 
proximately 2,000,000 gallons a day. The temperature of this 
spring is 107 degrees. The Municipal Bath-house, owned by 
the city of Paso Robles, situated near the park, is attractive 



117 

and is operated at popular prices. The elevation here is 720 
feet above sea-level, about that of Carlsbad, Baden-Baden or 
Kissingen. 

Paso Robles is the center of a beautiful region, much of 
it rich farming, grazing and fruit land. There are many de- 
lightful trips and walks to be taken, into the surrounding 
country. By all means, Santa Ysabel Springs, situated on the 
ranch of that name, three miles south of Paso Robles, should 
be visited. Here there is a real wonder, a lake of sparkling, 
hot mineral water under the oaks, where one may go boating 
or swimming. The ranch itself is one of the model dairy 
ranches of the state. 

Roads diverge from Paso Robles in several directions. One 
of these runs northeast through Union and Shandon to Cho- 
lame, in a farmJng and grazing region. Another road leads 
southeast through Lynne to Creston, in a thrifty agricultural 
district. To the west lies another road; this reaches Adelaide 
and Las Tablas Colony of Mennonites, in a diversified agricul- 
tural area. From Adelaide a road leads north to Gibbons 
and thence into Monterey County. Another runs west to San 
Simeon, on the coast, passing through Cambria, a dairy and 
mining center, at the head of the Santa Rosa Valley. Six 
miles from San Simeon is Piedras Blancas Point light-house. 
From Cambria a road leads along the coast to Cayucos, a 
shipping point for a prosperous dairy and farming back- 
country. From Cayucos the road continues to Morro, a sea- 
side resort, where there are surf-bathing and boating. The bay 
is rather a narrow, land-locked lagoon. Opposite rises lonely 
Morro Rock, a precipitous island, standing 573 feet above the 
sea at high tide. It is the haunt of seal and thousands of sea 
fowl. From Morro the road leads along the sea coast to San 
Luis Obispo (12). 

The Southern Pacific Coast Line and main county road 
from Paso Robles traverses the Salinas Valley. TEMPLETON 
(6) pleasantly situated on a slight elevation overlooking the 
river, is in a beautiful and fertile region, now mainly takeu 
up with dairy farms. Templeton is one of the four great 
military camps of the United States go/ernment used for 
maneuver grounds. Since 1904, ac the Atascadero Rancho of 
23,000 acres, three miles from Templeton, regular soldiers 
and militia of tHe Department of the Pacific have gathered 
for the annual Fchool of instruction. The maneuvers continue 
from, two to four weeks, including sham batt'es and rifle 
practice. 



118 

From Templeton the main route leads through Asuncion 
(3) and Atascadero (3) and Eaglet (2) to SANTA MARGAR- 
ITA (5). This town, at the head of the Salinas Valley, is a 
commercial point of considerable importance. Near here are 
the remains of the old stores erected by the padres of the 
Mission of San Luis Obispo. From this town a road leads 
east to Pozo and La Panza, across the San .Juan river to Simm- 
ler. South of these places lies the Carisa plain, a plateau of 
about 1,400 feet elevation, with no drainage outlet. In the 
midst of the plain is a huge sandstone rock or hill, having a 
great chamber in its center 120 feet long and 225 feet wide. 
This chamber is open to the sky and the walls are covered 
with Indian paintings in colors. This is one of the most inter- 
esting remains of the aborigines in California. There are sev- 
eral dry lake beds on the Carisa plain. 

From Santa Margarita the road crosses the Santa Lucia 
Mountains by way of the Cuesta Pass. The Santa Lucia 
Mountains were so named by the navigator Vizcaino, Decem- 
ber 14, 1602. In this part of the range the band of Joaquin 
Murieta had its stronghold in 1852, and here was fought a 
pitched battle between his men and the Americans, in which 
twenty men were killed on each side, the Americans refilling. 

At Cuesta (3i/^), the road becomes steep, approximating a 
15 per cent grade, and the Summit, 1570 feet, is reached be- 
tween Cuesta and Serrano. From Serrano (4i/^) the railroad 
comes down into the valley by means of a great horse-shoe 
curve, which presents many fine views; the track to be cov- 
ered ahead often comes in sight from the windows of the car. 
From Serrano the route runs through Goldtree (4) to the city 
of San Luis Obispo (SVi^). 

SAN LUIS OBISPO, the county seat, is a growing com- 
munity of about 6,000. The population in 1910 was 5,157; in 
1900 it was 3,021. Tlie city is beautifully situated at the base 
of the Santa Lucia Mountains, 9 miles from the ocean. The 
pyramidal mountains in the vicinity are remarkable forma- 
tions. Two that are close together and strangely cleft suggest 
a bishop's miter, and this fact is said to have influenced the 
padres to give the city its name, San lAiis Obispo de Tolosa 
(St. Louis, Bishop of Toulouse). The ])ublic buildings include 
the Free Library, the stone high school and other school struc- 
tures, and the county buildings. Near the court house are to 
be seen overgrown earthworks, erected by order of General 
Fremont in 1846. The Polytechnic School af San Luis Obispo 
is a state institution for the free teaching of industries and 
is one of the few schools of the kind on the Pacific Coast. The 
main buildings are attractive adaptations of the mission style 



119 

of architecture. (Hotel St, James, K. P. 50 cents, 75 cents and 
$1; Andrews Hotel, A. P. $3 up.) 

Mission San Luis Obispo, situated in the city, is interest- 
ing. The remains of the old church are protected by a modern 
arched ceiling and roof; a modern bell-tower has been added. 
An old statue of the patron Saint Louis, the Bishop of Tou- 
louse, wearing the miter, stands above the altar. Among the 
Ireasures of the mission are the cope and stole of Father 
Junipero Serra and the old cross used at the first mass. The 
mission was founded September 1, 1772, by Fathers Serra and 
Cavalier, the fifth mission in Alta California. The Indians 
for some time were hostile and burned many 
of the buiMings. The church was finished in 1793. The build- 
ings also included barracks, granary, guard-house, workshops 
and the like. 

There are many delightful walks and drives around San 
Luis Obispo. One is the seven-mile trip up Reservoir Canyon 
to the northeast of the town. The canyon is situated between 
two high ridges of hills. Those on the east are the highest, 
the three main peaks coming into sight being Lopez Mountain 
(2,860), Gay Mountain (2,850) and Piney Ridge (2,845). An- 
other pleasure trip is to Oak Park and Arroyo Grande. Morro, 
with its bay and rock (see above), is 12 miles from the city 
and should be visited by the lover of the sea-shore. El Pizmo 
beach, to the south, on the main line of the Southern Pacific, 
is another place of interest to nature lovers, to be noted later. 
The trip to the port of San Luis can be made by the county 
road or the line of the Pacific Coast Railroad. The route runs 
through Miles (^¥2) to San Luis Obispo Hot Sulphur Springs 
(1/^). These sulphur springs are situated a short distance 
from the San Luis Creek in a beautiful sycamore grove. Over 
3 00,000 gallons of mineral water run from the springs every 
day. Popular amusements here are boating and fishing in the 
creek. From the springs the line runs to Avila (1) where 
there is a pleasant beach. A large modern public wharf has 
been constructed here by the county of San Luis Obispo. 

From Avila the line leads (2) to PORT SAN LUIS. This 
port ranks high in the aggregate tonnage. Port San Luis is 
the terminus of several large pipe lines from the great oil 
fields of Kern and Santa Barbara Counties, making this one 
of the greatest oil-shipping ports in the world. The national 
government has improved the harbor by the construction of a 
breakwater. This is the most sheltered port on San Luis 
Obispo Bay. The bay was discovered in 1542 by Cabrillo, the 
great Spanish navigator, who called it Todos Santos (All 
Saints) Bay. 



120 

The region about Port San Luis is notable for the arched 
rocks and other strange formations on the coast. Fisherman's 
Rock is probably most noted, the arch being almost perfectly 
rounded ; nearby, too, are the Overhanging Rock and numerous 
sea caves. Near Port San Luis are ocean terraces, pro- 
nounced by scientists to be remarkable, showing the manner 
in which this part of the coast has been raised; the lowest 
terrace is ten feet above high tide, the middle one 60 feet, and 
the upper one 100 feet. 

An attractive side trip from San Luis Obispo is to Los 
Olivos and Mission Santa Ynez, by tiie line of the Pacific Coast 
Railroad. T'his is described at length in Section b under this 
route: San Luis Obispo to Los Olivos. 

(a) King City to Mission San Antonio 

From King City a road, part of El Caniino Real, runs across 
the mountains to .Jolon (17i/^), and further on is the old Mis- 
sion San Antonio de Padua (6). The route is an attractive 
one bordered by grain fields and cattle ranges. The Jolon 
grade is rather rough, but the rest of the road is good. The 
summit of the pass is 1,500 feet above sea level. Jolon (pro- 
nounced Holon) has a population of 250 and is the chief town 
of the valley of the same nam_e. Other towns of this farming 
region are Lockwood and Pleyto. 

Mission San Antonio de Padua, situated six miles from Jo- 
lon, was the third founded by the Franciscans in California. 
This vast ruin stands alone on the banks of Mission Creek, a 
small stream flowing into San Antonio River. The beautiful 
rolling country about is studded with oaks, which caused Fa- 
ther Serra to call the valley Los Robles (The Oaks). Behind 
the mission in the distance rises Santa Lucia Peak, 6.967 feet 
in altitude, the highest point in the Coast Range. The situa- 
tion of San Antonio is regarded by many as the most beautiful 
of all the mission sites. 

The mission was founded July 14, 1771, by Father Junipero 
Serra. It is told that when the father and his companions ar- 
rived in this spot, he had bells hung upon the branch of a tree 
and began to strike them. When asked by a missionary why 
he did this when there was not a single one in that region who 
knew the meaning of the ringing bells, he replied "Let me, 
father, relieve my heart, wishing that this beU might be heard 
bj'^ the whole world." An altar was set up and mass celebrat- 
ed, a single native, attracted by the beHs, being present. The 
tree may still be seen on the road to the mission. 

The first mission settlement was on the San Antonio River, 
but in 1774 it was moved three miles away on Mission Creek. 



121 

The present ruins are those of the second church, commenced 
in 1809 or 1810. The mission grew rapidly and became. noted 
lor its prosperity. In 1798 there were 1,076 neophytes enrolled 
at the mission, the largest in California at the time. The In- 
dians here had a legend of priests who had come to them 
5'ears before and brought them their religion. These are be- 
lieved to have been Spanish missionaries from New Mexico 
about 1631. In 1805 the population of the mission was 1296. 
Long after the secularization of the missions (1832) the In- 
dians lived here, but they finally deserted the mission on the 
death of Father Ambrose in 1882. 

For many years the roofless adobe walls of San Antonio 
were exposed to the elements, but the roof has been restored 
by the California Historic Landmarks League preventing fur- 
ther destruction. The facade of the chapel is to the east and 
is faced with burnt brick, and above may be seen openings 
where the mission bells once swung. The walls are very sub- 
stantially built, being six feet thick. Architecturally, San An- 
tonio was one of the most imposing of the missions. Adjoin- 
ing the church is a long cloistered bulging, with rows of 
pillars and arches. The interior decorations of the mission 
disappeared long ago. In front of the church is an old olive 
tree planted by the padres in the early years of the mission. 

(b) San Luis Obispo to Los Olivos 

The line of the Pacific Coast Railroad runs from San Luis 
Obispo southeast into Santa Barbara County, reaching Los 
Olivos, whence the old Mission Santa Ynez is easily accessible. 
This is a delightful side trip from San Luis Obispo, traversing 
a fruitful and picturesque region. The excellent automobile 
road follows the same general course as the railroad. 

After passing Edna (6), where there are large asphalt re- 
finery plants, the traveler reaches Arroyo Grande (4%), the 
center of the flower-seed industry of the county. The little 
valley is literally one great garden of flowers. The population 
is about 1,000. About one mile east of Arroyo Grande are the 
Newsom White Sulphur Springs. Roads run to the neighbor- 
ing towns of Musick and Huasna. 

From Arroyo Grande the route leads through a prosperous 
agricultural region, passing Los Berros (4i/^), Summit (2), 
Nipomo (3), and into Oso Flaco Valley. This valley received 
its name (meaning "Lean Bear'') from the Spanish soldiers 
of Portola in 1769, because they killed here a hungry-looking 
bear; but there is nothing lean about the crops raised here 
in modern days. The route crosses the Santa Maria River into 



122 

Santa Barbara County, reaching the city of SANTA MARIA 
(7). In 1910 the population was 2,260. It is one of the large 
oil centers of the state, and the agricultural resources of the 
surrounding country add to its prosperity. Barley, beans, oats 
and poultry form sources of revenue. The oil fields are in the 
hills on the southern side of the valley; Santa Maria has an 
output of 7,500,000 barrels of petroleum annually. There are 
also productive natural gas wells here. (Hotel Bradley, $1.50 
to $2.50.) 

A branch line of the railway from Santa Maria follows 
the course of the Sisquoc River southeastward, running 
through Suey (5) and Garey (6) to Sisquoc (3). Farther up 
the river is rugged scenery, with the Cuyamas Range to the 
north and the San Rafael Range to the south. An electric 
line runs from Santa Maria west to Guadalupe (10) on the 
Southern Pacific Coast line. 

The main route from Santa . Maria extends southeast 
through Union (2) to Lake View (2) and Orcutt (2), in a rich 
agricultural territory. From Orcutt the line runs to Los 
Alamos (14), in the valley of the same name, which is devoted 
largely to the growing of grain. Beyond here, after passing 
Wigmore (4) is reached LOS OLIVOS (8), the terminus of the 
railroad. 

From Los Olivos an excellent stage road, a favorite road 
for autoists, runs to SANTA YNEZ MISSION (4). The mis- 
sion stands in a beautiful spot to the east of the road and 
north of the Santa Ynez River. The building is long and low, 
made of adobe lined with burnt brick and surmounted by tiles. 
The mission is fronted by an arched colonnade. At one end 
is the chapel, with the bells swung in niches in the arcade, 
similar to the arrangement at San Gabriel. The interior is 
plain, paved with large square bricks; the ceiling is supported 
by massive carved beams. The mission was founded Septem- 
ber 17, 180'4, and dedicated to St. Agnes (Santa Ynez). The 
present structure was begun in 1812. The Indian revolt of 1824 
started at Santa Ynez and many of the buildings were de- 
stroyed. The mission continued as a religious establishment 
until 1850, when it was abandoned. To the northeast of the 
mission is the town of Santa Ynez. 

Near Los Olivos are several points of scenic interest. To 
the northeast about ten miles is pretty little Zaca Lake, with 
mountain peaks on all sides. On the south rise Lookout 
Mountain (3,490) and Zaca Peak (4,333 feet). Near Los Olivos 
also is the Rancho del Alamo Pintado, an attractive mountain 
resort. From Santa Ynez the coast can be reached by any 
one of three passes, Gaviota, Refugio or San Marcos, all 
notable for their wild grandeur. 



7. San Luis Obispo to Santa Barbara 

This is one of the most remarkable scenic routes in the 
world, running as it does for most of the distance along the 
edge of the Pacific Ocean. 

From San Luis Obispo the Coast Line of the Southern Pa- 
cific continues southeast through Edna to EL PIZMO (12), on 
the Pacific Ocean. El Pizmo Beach, 17 miles long and several 
hundred feet wide, is of firm sand. The beach is excellent for 
surf-bathing, and an automobile can be driven over it the 
whole distance. There are several strange formations at 
Pizmo Beach, including the interesting Arch Rock. The route 
extends to Oceano (2), at the entrance of the Arroyo Grande 
Valley. Here there are acres of seed farms, especially 
fragrant sweetpeas, a beautiful sight in bloom. The fragrance 
of the blossoms is wafted for miles. From Oceano the line 
passes through Callendar (4) and Bromela (25^) to Santa 
Maria River, the boundary between San Luis Obispo and 
Santa Barbara Counties. 

After crossing the Santa Maria River, the Coast Line of the 
Southern Pacific reaches Guadalupe (3i^) in SANTA BAR- 
BARA COUNTY. This county has the shape of a parallelogram, 
with 100 miles of seacoast; 60 miles of this, from Point Con- 
cepcion eastward, has a southern exposure, which accounts 
for the fame of Santa Barbara as another Riviera. The area 
of the county is 2,740 square miles; the population 1910 was 
27,738. The Santa Ynez range divides the county, the terri- 
tory to the south being most populous. Tlie agricultural re- 
sources of this region are great; it is devoted mainly to the 
culture of walnuts, olives, lemons and beans. The northern 
part of the county contains four large valleys — the Lompoc, 
Santa Ynez, Los Alamos and Santa Maria. The latter is one 
of the largest in Southern California. In the hills on the 
south side of this valley are extensive oil fields, as at Summer- 
land, below the city of Santa Barbara. For the tourist, Santa 
Barbara County, with its wonderful climate, its beaches and 
mountains, its three old Franciscan missions and other varied 
attractions, is of unusual interest. 

Guadalupe is a shipping point for the Santa Maria Valley. 
The town is situated about six miles from the ocean; along 
this part of the coast, as at Mussel Rock, the ocean has carved 
interesting grottoes, arches and caves in the limestone cliffs. 
The line of the Pacific Coast Electric Railroad connects with 
the Southern Pacific, running east through Betteravia (5), 
where is situated a large beet-sugar refinery, to Santa Maria 
(5), whence the Pacific Coast Railroad (narrow-gauge) leads 



124 

southeast to Los Olivos, near Santa Ynez and its old mission. 
(See Route 6 b.) 

From Guadalupe the Coast Line of the Southern Pacific 
runs through Casmalia (11), Tangair (10), across the Santa 
Ynez River, near its mouth, to Surf (5%). This is a town 
situated on a rock-bound coast, where the waves break into 
spray. The railroad runs along the very edge of the ocean. A 
branch line of the Southern Pacific runs from here southeast 
to LOMPOC (10). Of particular interest in the Lompoc re- 
gion are the seed farms, and in bloom the acres of sweetpeas 
and other flowers present a beautiful sight. A profitable in- 
dustry of the valley, the only one of its kind in the United 
States, is the raising of mustard for market. The town of 
Lompoc is beautifully situated on the southern bank of the 
little Santa Ynez River; hills lie all around, except on the 
west, where the land slopes to the ocean. Founded in 1874 
as a temperance colony, the town has now a population of 
1,800 and is growing. (Hotel Arthur, A. P. $2.) 

T*he remains of two missions are near Lompoc. Old Puris- 
ima, founded December 8, 1787, by Father Lasuen, is a pile 
of ruins beyond redemption, situated on a slight eminence 
about V2 mile south from the center of the town. Only a few 
walls remain. It was destroyed by an earthquake, December 
12, 1812. The site of the mission, La Purisima Conception, 
was then moved five miles farther down the river on the op- 
posite bank. The first structure here was destroyed by the 
Indians in the revolt of 1824. The mission whose ruins now 
remain, was begun in 1825. Portions of the new Puris- 
ima which stand show the substantial character of the build- 
ing; the adobe walls are from four to five feet thick; the roof 
is of red tile. The mission Is unique in the absence of the 
arches which marked most of the Franciscan structures. In- 
stead, square pillars support the veranda along the front. The 
mission building Is long and low, containing 21 rooms; the 
church takes about half the space. While the mission cannot 
be said to be among the most characteristic, its situation, 
with its back to the hills, is picturesque. At the end of its cor- 
ridor a fine view of the valley, with the ocean in the distance, 
is obtained. The Santa Ynez mission (see Route 6b), further 
up the valley, may be reached from Lompoc by a picturesque 
route (24 miles). TTie road is excellent for automobiles. 

From Surf the Coast Line of the Southern Pacific continues 
for 100 miles along the coast., on cliffs 50 to 200 feet above the 
waves, descending now and then to the beaches; landward 
rise the Santa Ynez Mountains. This is one of the most re- 
markable coast routes in the world. The line continues past 



125 

Point Argiiello and its ligbthouse through Sudden (15) to Con- 
cepcion (8), at the head of the Santa Barbara Channel. The 
lighthouse at Point Concepcion is on the shelf of a surf-beaten 
cliff, which rises 220 feet above the sea. The land behind is 
much lower and from the ocean the cliff seems to be an island. 
The point was discovered by CabriUo in 1542. Point Concep- 
cion is of great importance in the geography of California; it 
marks a decided change in direction of both the coast and 
the mountain range. From here a continuous mountain range 
extends easterly far into the deserts of the south. 

The route from Concepcion runs eastward through Drake 
(9) to Gaviota (5). From here a stage road and auto route 
run to Los Olivos and the Santa Ynez mission by way of a 
beautiful gorge, Gaviota Pass. The mission can also be 
reached by the Pacific Coast Railroad from San Luis Obispo 
or from Lompoc (see above). T'he grade is rather steep, but 
the scenery is well worth the climb. At the head of the Gav- 
iota Canyon, tortuous and high-walled, is the village of Las 
Cruces, 4 miles north of Gaviota. From here there are pleas- 
ant walking trips into the mountains. About % of a mile to 
the southeast are Las Cruces Sulphur Springs, in a grove of 
oaks and sycamores. Five miles to the northeast, among roll- 
ing hills, are the beautiful Nojoqui Falls (pronounced No-ho- 
quee), where the little creek plunges over a precipice, a sheer 
drop of over one hundred feet. These falls can also be reached 
from Gaviota Pass by means of a rough road running to the 
north. Beyond Las Cruces the main road ascends to Gaviota 
Pass, whose summit is 1,00'0 feet above sea level. To the 
south is Gaviota Peak (2,451 feet). The road descends from 
the summit, across the Santa Ynez River and past the Mission 
Santa Ynez to Los Olivos (see route 6 b), 17 miles from Las 
Cruces, 

The coast route from Gaviota continues eastward through 
Tajiguas (6) and Naples (10) to Elwood (4). Here are large 
groves of eucalyptus (the oldest in Southern California) and 
many acres planted in olives. Tlie mountains north of this 
portion of the route are the loftiest in this part of the Coast 
Range. Santa Ynez Peak is 4,292 feet above sea level and to 
the east rise Condor Point (3,000 feet), and Brush Peak (3,059 
feet). From Elwood the traveler reaches Goleta (4), whence 
the road crosses the mountains by the grand San Marcos Pass. 
The summit is 2,224 feet above sea-level; to the east towers 
Brush Peak and to the west the mountains rise even higher. 
On the eastern side of the pass is the Painted Cave, reached 
from the main road by a narrow wagon road. The interior of 
the cavern is covered with rude painted figures and hieroglyph- 



126 

ics, undoubtedly the work of Indians. From the summit of 
the pass the road runs into the Santa Ynez Valley, reaching 
Los Olivos. From Goleta the main route continues to Santa 
Barbara. 

SANTA BARBARA is especially noted for its equable cli- 
mate and its well-preserved Franciscan mission. The census 
of 1910 gave a population of 11,659; in 1900 it was 6,587. The 
city faces the beautiful Santa Barbara Channel and is situated 
on a gentle slope at the base of the foothills of the Santa Ynez 
mountains. The first Spanish settlement here was in 1782, 
when Ortega, with Father Serra. founded the Presidio. The 
city was laid out in blocks in 1851. It is gaining commercial 
importance, besides being widely known as a summer and win- 
ter resort. 

Santa Barbara has an excellent system of paved streets, 
boulevards and suburban drives, parks, pleasure grounds and 
athletic fields. The beach is broad and clean; bathing is safe 
here because there is no undertow. A palm-lined boulevard 
fronts the ocean. At one end are well-equipped bath-houses 
and a pleasure-pier near the beautiful Plaza Del Mar. TTie 
grounds of the Arlington and Potter Hotels are elaborately 
parked. The Potter Hotel faces the sea and the Plaza Del 
Mar. In the groimds of the Arlington Hotel may be seen 
ancient palm trees planted in the early mission days, as well 
as an old rose tree with a trunk 14 inches in diameter. The 
city is noted for the diversity of the plant life in its gardens; 
shrubs and trees from many different countries of the world 
having been acclimated here. It is estimated that of palms 
alone there are 150 varieties growing in Santa Barbara. 

The celebrated Mission of Santa Barbara is situated in the 
foothills about two miles from the water, on the northern out- 
skirts of the city (end of Garden-street car line). This is with- 
out question the best preserved of California missions (it has 
never been restored) and is one of the most interesting. It 
is constructed almost entirely of stone, and js surmounted by 
a roof of tiles. The imposing church building is 140 feet long 
by 40 feet wide; this is flanked by a long line of low buildings 
with arched corridors. Before the main building is the large 
fountain, quaint and artistic in design. The massive walls of 
the church, 6 feet thick, are strengthened with solid stone but- 
tresses and within may be seen the heavy cross-beams used 
in the structure. Santa Barbara is the only one of the mis- 
sions which has two towers. One of these is the bell-tower, in 
which hang mellow-toned bells, brought f.Tom Spain, where 
they were cast in 1818. This belfry may be ascended by visit- 
ors; from it is a sweeping and delightful view. TTie inner gar- 



127 

den of the mission is used for the private quarters of the 
priests and therefore is closed to the public. Women are for- 
bidden to visit this sacred enclosure; only two women have 
been accorded this privilege, Mrs. Benjamin Harrison and 
Princess Louise, Marchiones of Lome. The east garden is a 
part of the old burying-groiind, where 4,000 bodies are interred, 
one grave upon another. This area, about an acre in extent, 
is now covered with roses and rare plants and trees. In the 
garden fountain abound gleaming goldfish. Near the center of 
the garden is a large crucifix. The interior of the church is plain, 
though evidences remain of a frescoed ceiling. The most val- 
ued treasure of the mission is a piece of the true cross, 
brought from the Holy Land. There are also preserved here 
gorgeous robes and vestments used in early mission days. 
The library contains massive leather-covered books and parch- 
ments, together with archives and mission records which are 
of inestimable value to the student of the history of California. 
TTie tomb of Francisco Garcia Diego, first Bishop of Alta 
California, is under the floor at the right of the altar, in the 
nave of the church. 

The mission was founded on December 4th, 1786, by Father 
Fermin Francisco de Lasuen. The first permanent chapel was 
built the following year, but the establishment grew rapidly 
and the present edifice was begim in 1815. The new church 
was dedicated on September 10, 1820. Since 1852, a Fran- 
ciscan college with a novitiate has been established here for 
the education of young men. The reception hours at the mis- 
sion are from 8 to 11:30 o'clock and from 1 to 5. 

The Santa Barbara Public Library, situated at 14 East 
Carrillo street, and the Court House are points of interest. 
The iVIuseum of Natural History, at Anacapa and Carrillo 
street, is open to the public Wednesday and Saturday from 
2 to 4. In the heart of the city are many relics of the early 
days. The ruins of the Casa de Aguirre, built in a quadrangle 
after the Spanish style of architecture, are of interest. The 
material for this old building was brought in ships from New 
York. After serving as a dwelling for years, it was used as a 
place for political meetings and was later the barracks of 
the First California Volunteers. Another old residence, the 
De la Guerra House, is of unusual romantic interest (13 East 
De la Guerra street). Here lived for some time Concepcion 
de Arguello, the heroine of Bret Harte's beautiful poem of 
that name, after the death of her lover, the Russian Rezanoff. 
This house has offered hospitality to many celebrities, includ- 
ing Generals Sherman, Fremont and Halleck and Richard 
Henry Dana, author of "Two Years Before the Mast," who de- 



128 

scribed in that book the festivities at the De la Guerra house. 
Much of the furniture and material used in this house were 
brought from Spain. 

There are many attractive drives about Santa Barbara 
which should be seen by the leisurely tourist. Among them, 
one of the m.ost beautiful, is the Mountain Drive, which makes 
a circuit back of the foothills; beginning at the old Mission, 
it extends easterly to Montecito Valley, connecting with 
Riven Rock road, and thence runs by way of Hot Springs ave- 
nue to Ocean Drive and Boulevard. This is a popular half- 
day trip. The Mission Ridge Drive, affording a fine view of 
the city, connects with the Mountain Drive, The trip up the 
Mission Canyon, northeast of the city, is through a wooded 
residence district. The Montecito Drive is a route of unusual 
scenic interest: the round trip is from 10 to 16 mlies, by way 
of the Ocean Drive and Sycamore Canyon road. The Cliff 
Drive trip embraces a tour of 12 miles; the route extends 
west by way of Hollister avenue. Central avenue and Modoc 
road, passing Hope Lake and the Potter Country Club; the 
return is by Cliff Drive and Mesa avenue, passing the light- 
house and entering the city at the west end of Canon Perdido 
street. Hollister Avenue is the main county road, leading 
west through Goleta walnut groves and by the Elwood and 
Glen Annie ranches; the distance to Elwood is 12 miles. The 
Tunnel Drive is up Mission Canyon to the new city tunnel, 
bored through the mountain and furnishing the city's water 
supply, whence it is four miles by foot trail to Seven Falls. 
La Cumbre Drive leaves the Mountain Drive at the sign, "La 
Cumbre Trail," and runs one mile up the grade to El Reposo. 
The road to San Marcos Pass (14 miles to the summit from 
Santa Barbara) is by way of the Goleta road, and embraces 
some of the finest scenery in California; the pass and the 
Painted Cave nearby have been described above. Other points 
of interest reached by road from Santa Barbara are San Jose 
Farm (one mile east of Goleta), Smith's Canyon, where there 
are beautiful waterfalls (to right of Goleta at Patera, 13 
mi^es), San Ysidro Rancho (6 miles), Crocker Rancho (by 
Ocean Drive, coast road, San Ysidro and Montecito road; re- 
turn by Sheffield Drive, 8 miles), Shepard's Inn and Stanley 
Park (17 miles), and Carpinteria (see below). The famous 
Ojai Valley (described under Route 8 a) may be reached from 
Santa Barbara by the picturesque Casitas Pass. 

There are also many horseback trails about Santa Barbara 
which reach places inaccessible to automobile travel. One of 
the finest of these is La Cumbre Trail, reaching La Cumbre 
Peak (3,985 feet). By way of the Mountain Drive and La 



129 

Roca Grande this trip is 12 miles; by way of Los Canoas Can- 
yon it is 10 miles. The Tunnel Trail to La Cumbre (8 miles) 
and to Santa Ynez river (JO miles) is another horseback trip. 
The Moore Trail connects Mission Canyon with San Roque 
Canyon (3 miles). San Roque Trail runs from Hollister Ave- 
nue to the Ridge Trail on the summit of the mountains. The 
Summit Trail, built by the government, extends from San Mar- 
cos to Matilija. The Franklin Canyon Trail leads up Franklin 
Canyon from Carpinteria Valley, 12 miles east of Santa Bar- 
bara, to the summit of the range, 5 miles ; thence to the Santa 
Ynez river (2 miles) and to the mouth of Juncal Canyon. The 
Andrews Trail runs from the San Roque Trail by way of 
Bryant, Barger and Loma Abaca canyons to the Cieneguitaa 
road (4 mi'es). The Cold Springs Trail is reached by Monte- 
cito roads or Mountain Drive to Easton place, whence the trail 
leads to the summit (12% miles). From the Cold Springs 
Trail the Waring Trail turns to the right, returning to Monte- 
oito by way of Bradbury place (10 miles). The Romero Trail 
leads from the Ortega schoolhouse to the Santa Ynez river (9 
miles). From Shepard's Inn the Rincon Trail reaches the 
Ridge Trail, and thence leads to the river (13 miles). 

The parks of Santa Barbara add much to the beauty of the 
city. Plaza Del Mar, on the waterfront (reached by aU car 
lines) has been described. Oak Park (terminus of Oak Park 
car line) is a fine natural grove of oaks and sycamores. Plaza 
Alameda (reached by Garden-street cars) is a beautiful park 
of ten acres in the heart of the city. From Lavigia Hill (290 
feet), above Santa Barbara Point, a beautiful view of the city 
may be obtained. The Santa Barbara Hot Springs lie about 
five miles northeast of the city in a picturesque canyon, at an 
elevation of 1,420 feet. The springs are about twenty in num- 
ber, the water varying from 60 degrees to 120 degrees. The 
view from here over the city and its suburbs, the channel and 
the islands, is magnificent. 

Y'achting and fishing in the channel are among the sports 
of Santa Barbara, which include as well practically all forms 
of outdoor recreation, such as golf, polo and tennis, swim- 
ming, hunting and mountain climbing. In the calm waters 
of the channel the United States battleships hold maneuvers; 
in fact, the Santa Barbara Channel has come to be known as 
"the playground of the Pacific Fleet." Speed tests for war 
vessels built on the Pacific Coast are made in these waters. 
The fishing is for barracuda, bonito and albicore, which 
abound in mid-channel and for tuna on the seaward side. 
The Channel Islands may be visited by sailboat or launch; 
Santa Cruz Island, with its wonderful sea caves, is especially 
popular with tourists. 



130 

The leading hotels of Santa Barbara are The Potter Hotel, 
A. P. $3 lip; Arlington Hotel, A. P. $3 up; Hotel Mascarel, A. 
P. $2 to $3. 



8. Santa Barbara to Los Angeles 

The Coast Line of the Southern Pacific runs from Santa 
Barbara to SUMMERLAND (5). This place started as a 
summer resort, but petroleum was discovered and now it is 
a growing oil center. A remarkable feature is the fact that 
the oil derricks reach out into the ocean some distance be- 
yond the low-tide mark, pumping the crude petroleum from 
the veins far beneath the ocean bottom. 

From Summerland the route extends to CARPINTERIA 
(5). Here is the largest grape vine in the world, with a base 
circumference of 9 feet. The vine is of the celebrated Mission 
variety. It bore ten tons of grapes in 1896, its record vintage. 
Tliough not as old as the great vine at Hampton Court in 
England, the Carpinteria vine is considerably larger. About 
the town are extensive orchards and vineyards. Stewart Ed- 
ward White, the well-knewn author, resides near the beach 
at Carpinteria. In the mountains, six miles from Carpinteria, 
on Rincon Creek, is Stanley Park, a popular resort. There 
are hot and cold sulphur springs at this place, and the hunt- 
ing and fishing are excellent. Shepherd's Inn is about one 
mile distant from Stanley Park. These resorts are in the 
Santa Ynez Forest Reserve, and there are five trails leading 
into the mountains (described under Santa Barbara) . 

The route from Carpinteria reaches Benham (3), entering 
VENTURA COUNTY. This county has an area of 1,878 
square miles, with about 50 miles of sea coast. The popula- 
tion in 1910 was 18,347; in 1900, it was 14,367. The principal 
products of the county are beets and beans, but there are also 
many orchards of apricot, lemon and orange trees and exten- 
sive walnut groves. The coast region of Ventura county and 
the territory adjoining to the north and south constitute the 
greatest bean-producing section in the United States; thou- 
sands of tons of Lima beans are grown here. From Carpin- 
teria the roads skirt the coast upon the high bluffs overlook- 
ing the ocean, the hinterland being a rich agricultural dis- 
trict, hay and beans being the main crops. From Benham the 
route runs through Punta Gorda (IV2), Seacliff (3), Dulah (4), 
to Ventura (iVa). 



131 

VENTURA (San Buenaventura), the county seat, is one 
of California's mission towns. The population in 1910 was 
2,945, but with environs it now numbers 5,000. (Hotel Ana- 
capa, A. P. $2 up.) The situation of the city is picturesque, 
lying at the mouth of the Ventura River, extending from the 
ocean back into the foothills. Ventura is fast becoming a con- 
siderable commercial and manufacturing point. The beach is 
one of the best and safest for bathing on the California coast, 
without undertow or tide-rip. The public buildings include 
the public library, with seven thousand volumes, town hall, 
high school and other schools, county court house and county 
hospital. The Bard collection of reMcs connected with early 
California history may be seen at Ventura. There are two 
public parks. 

The point of greatest interest is Mission San Buenaventura, 
founded March 31, 1782. TTie church, all that remains of the 
old mission buildings, is in excellent preservation and is still 
the parish church of the Catholics of the community. The 
church stands in the center of the city, passed by electric 
cars. The brick walls are six feet thick; the roof is covered 
with shingles, instead of the original tiles. The two-story 
belfry tower is characteristic and still holds the old bells, 
brought originally from Spain and later from Mexico on mule- 
back. The interior of the mission is newly and handsomely 
decorated. Nearly 4,000 are buried in the little graveyard 
west of the church. The founding of the mission was the last 
work of Father Junipero Serra. It was estabMshed Easter 
Sunday, March 30, 1783. It grew rapidly, and when Vancou- 
ver visited the mission in 1793 he was struck with its gardens 
and orchards. A disastrous fire caused the erection of new 
buildings, the present church being erected in 1794-1809. The 
mission takes its name from San Buenaventura, Doctor Sara- 
fico (Saint Bonaventura, Serafic Doctor). An aqueduct six 
miles long carried water to the mission from the Ventura 
River. Two large date palms, planted in the early days of 
the mission, still remain. One of these ancient trees stands 
in a pleasant park, with a protecting lodge beside it built 
by the Native Daughters of the Golden West. 

From Ventura a side trip of unusual attractiveness is to 
Nordhoif and the Ojai Valley, described in Section a of this 
Route. There are two routes from Ventura to Los Angeles. 
T'he old route is by way of Santa Pau^a and Camulos (Ra- 
mona's home) to Saugus, and thence through Fernando and 
Burbank to Los Angeles; this trip is described in Section b 
under this Route. The newer and shorter way between Ven- 
tura and Los Angeles is through Oxnard and Chatsworth, and 
is outlined herewith. 



132 

The railroad extends southeast from Ventura to Montalvo 
(5), named in honor of the early Spanish author in whose 
novel the name California fiist appeared. At this place the 
branch line to Santa Paula and Camulos diverges. (See 
Route 8b.) Prom Montalvo the main line crosses the Santa 
Clara River to El Rio (2) and thence to Oxnard (2). 

OXNARD, the second city of Ventura county, is the center 
of the sugar beet industry, with a tributary region raising 
also grain, beans and walnuts. (Hotel Oxnr.rd, A. P. $2.50 
up.) The population is about 3,500'; in 1910 is was 2,555. 
There is an excellent library in a handsome building. In the 
center of the city is a pretty plaza. The Oxnard sugar beet 
factory is the largest in the world, and the processes employed 
in this manufactory are of interest to tourists. 

Local railroad lines from Oxnard lead to Nordhoff and the 
Simi region. The Ventura & Bakersfield Railroad runs from 
Oxnard to Ormonde Beach and the old town of Huenema (4), 
and thence along the coast to Round Mountain. The Ventura 
County Rai'road also runs a daily motor-car service between 
Oxnard and Hueneme. 

From Oxnard the main route extends east to Camarillo (9) 
in a rich bean-growing and orchard section. From here a pic- 
turesque auto route runs to Los Angeles through Russell Val- 
ley, between the Simi Hills on the north and the Santa Monica 
Mountains on the south. This road passes through Newbury 
(10) to Calabasas (16), in Los Angeles county. Los Angeles 
is 29 miles farther east. 

Beyond Camarillo the main line passes Somis (3), Lagol 
(3), Tunez (1^^) and Moorpark (3). All these towns are in 
the bean-growing region. To the north of here, in the foot- 
hills, is the town of Epworth. From Moorpark the line trav- 
erses the Simi Valley, mainly a stock-raising country, to the 
towns of Simi (5) and Santa Susana (5i/^). From here the 
railroad passes through the Santa Susana tunnel into Los An- 
geles county at Chatsworth. 

LOS ANGELES COUNTY is the largest in the state in 
point of population, and ranks high in wealth and resources. 
Its land area is 4,067 square miles. Within its limits may be 
found a variety of scenery and climate which can scarcely be 
matched by any other California county. The topography in- 
cludes the breezy seashore, the warm inland plains and mesas, 
the cool uplands and snow-covered mountains, and even the 
islands of the Pacific, for Santa Catalina and Santa Barbara 
islands are parts of Los Angeles county. This diversity of 
surroundings has made the region popular with tourists and 



133 

liomeseekors alike. The result of making known to the 
world the delights of Los Angeles county may be seen in the 
United States census reports. In 1S80 it had a population of 
only 33,881; in 1890 it had 101,454; in 1900 this had increased 
to 170,298. The census of 1910 showed a population of 504,131 
in Los Angeles county, and the growth since then has been 
unchecked. These figures show that the county has increased 
in population fifteen-fold within the last thirty years. An even 
more remarkable growth has been in the assessed valuation 
of property, increasing from $26,655,294 in 1882 to $607,182,757 
in 1912 (including railroads). The principal industry is horti- 
culture, the development of orange growing during the last 
few years having been great. Besides the orange and lemon, 
the principal fruits raised are the fig, prune, apricot, peach and 
pear; walnuts, almonds and berries are grown extensively. Ir- 
rigation has rendered the farmer independent of the season's 
rainfall and added to the productiveness of the land, but suc- 
cessful farming can be carried on in most parts of the county 
without irrigation. About four-fifths of the area of Los An- 
geles county is capable of cultivation, the rest being moun- 
tainous. About 90 per cent of the people live within thirty 
miles of the ocean. 

From Chatsworth (Chats worth Park) the main line of the 
Southern Pacific continues southeast to Burbank (18). BUR- 
BANK, two miles from the city limits of Los Angeles, is sit- 
uated in the foothills of the Verdugo Mountains, with a rise 
of several hundred feet. Its commanding position has given 
it the name of "the panorama city." Burbank is a choice resi- 
dential section and is connected with Los Angeles with broad 
boulevards and electric railways, as well as by the Southern 
Pacific lines. From Burbank the railroad runs to the River 
Station (9) and thence to Arcade Depot, Los Angeles (2). 
(The city of Los Angeles and its suburbs are described in 
Route 9 of this book.) 



(a) Ventura to Nordhoff 



From Ventura a branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad 
and several automobile roads lead northward to the famous 
OJAI VALLEY. Ojai (pronounced o-high) is said to mean 
"nest" in the Indian language. This country was first her- 
alded to the world by Charles Nordhoff, the journalist, whose 
name is borne by the principal town of the valley. The Ojai 
can be reached from Santa Paula, or from Santa Barbara, 
the latter route being by the Casitas Pass, noted for the 
beauty of its scenery. The roads leading to NORDHOFF, in 



134 

the lower Olai Valley, foPow a beautiful route along the Ven- 
tura River and San Antonio Creek. The valley is divided into 
the upper and lower Ojai, embracing together about 18,000 
acres. The altitude of the lower valley is 800 to 1,00'0 feet; 
of the upper valley, 1,100 to 1,300 feet. About it lie mountains, 
the Topa range. The valley is adapted to agriculture, but its 
attractions to tourists make it best known. Scattered over 
the val'ey and hills are great live-oaks, which give it the ap- 
pearance of an English country park. 

NORDHOFF, with a population of about 650, is a quiet 
town, 14 miles north of Ventura. (Foothills Hotel, A. P. $3 
up; Ojai Inn, A. P. $2.) From this center many delightful 
side trips are taken. There are numerous resorts in the vicin- 
ity for tourists and health-seekers. Near Nordhoff is Casa 
Piedra, the Thacher school for boys. In the surrounding 
mountains are numerous hot springs, with hotels and bath- 
houses. Matilija Springs (pronounced Mah-tee-lee-ha), four 
miles from Nordhoff, are hot sulphur springs situated in the 
Matilija Canyon near the Ventura River. Here are popular 
camping grounds. This region is the home of the white Ma- 
tilija poppy. Farther up the Matilija Canyon is Lyon's. Near 
the source of the river are beautiful falls. The overhanging 
rock in Matilija Canyon is another object of interest. From 
here are reached Pine Mountain and White Rock Creek, where 
the wild beauty of the scenery holds the traveler. 

Across the mountains from the Ojai, reached by a 14-mile 
trail, is Lathrop's Camp, on Sespe Creek, where there are ex- 
cellent trout-fisMng and quail and deer hunting in season. 
Twelve miles down the Sespe are Willett's Hot 
Sulphur Springs, and farther on are the Big Sespe Hot 
Springs, with the largest flow of sulphur water in the world. 
The mountains in the northern part of Ventura county (in the 
government Forest Reserve) contain much rugged and grand 
scenery, though not much visited by tourists. The game in- 
cludes deer and mountain quail, with an occasional brown 
bear and mountain Hon. In the Lockwood Valley are exten- 
sive borax mines, while placer mines are worked along the 
Piru Creek, in this region. At the mines of San Felician gold 
was taken out in paying quantities some years before Mar- 
shall's discovery at Coloma. (See El Dorado County.) 

Between Nordhoff and Santa Paula, 6 miles from either 
place, are the Sulphur Mountain Springs, on the side of the 
remarkably striped Sisar Peak, at the junction of Sisar and 
Santa Paula Creeks. This is a resort for those wishing rest 
or recreation. 



135 



(b) Ventura to Los Angeles via Santa Paula 

From Ventura this route extends Lo Montalvo (5), whence 
it leaves the main line, running up the Santa Clara Valley. 
The line follows the northern bank of the river to Sa,ticoy (4), 
the center of a thriving agricultural district, producing mainly 
Lima beans and walnuts. The population is about 400. From 
Saticov the route passes through Haines (,4) to Santa Paula 
(31/2). 

SANTA PAULA, a city of 2,500 inhabitants, is situated at 
the point where the Santa Paula canyon opens out into the 
broad Santa Clara Valley. (Casa Ledrillo, $2 up.) The city 
is the center of the petroleum production of Ventura county, 
the oil being found in the surrounding hills. This is also a 
great citrus fruit district, and near here is the largest lemon 
orchard in the world, the Limoneria Ranch. Santa Paula has 
an excellent library, and the public schools are first class. 
From Santa Paula a stage line runs to Sulpliur Springs. 

Beyond Santa Paula the railroad passes through Sespe (7) 
and Brownstone (1) to Fillmore (2), near tiie juncture of the 
Sespe Creek with the Santa Clara river. There are well-kept 
lemon and orange orchards about this rapidly-growing city. 
A bridge across the Santa Clara here connects Fillmore with 
a fertile tributary region. Near Fillmore is the town of Bards- 
dale. The route continues from Fillmore through Cavin (3i/^) 
and Buckhorn (2), to Piru (2). This old town is in a rich 
district, with fruit and nut orchards. The mountains on the 
north, which separate the valley from the Mojave Desert, are 
the San Rafael range; to the south is the Sierra San Fer- 
nando. From Piru the train runs to Camulos (3). The little 
town of CAMULOS, on the Camulos Rancho, is well known 
as forming the setting of "Ramona," Helen Hunt Jackson's 
famous novel. The house which she took for her model is the 
old Del Valle home, typical of early California life. The house 
is situated near the station, and a glimpse of it may be had 
from the train, l)ut usually a visit of an hour or more is en- 
joyed by tourists about "Ramona's House." 

The house, constructed of adobe, was built about 60 years 
ago. The patio, with its flowers and its fountain, and the 
south veranda are of interest. The room of Ramona is at 
the eastern end of this veranda; that of Father Salvierda at 
the western (raised) end. Close by the house is the quaint 
chapel, its decorations brought from Spain. Near the chapel, 
hanging in a wooden frame, are three old bells once belonging 
to the missions of San Fernando and San Buenaventura. 



136 

South from the chapel a short distance is another fountain, 
bordered with hollowed stones used by the early Indians as 
mortars for grinding corn. Beyond the grape arbor near the 
fountain is the creek, mentioned so often in the novel, and 
farther on is the Santa C'ara River. The picturesque grave- 
yard of the Del Valle family lies on a slope some distance from 
the settlement. It is remarkable that Helen Hunt Jackson 
spent but two hours at Camulos, yet was able to accurately 
reproduce its details in "Ramona." 

From Camulos the railroad reaches past Kemp (4) into Los 
Angeles county, just beyond that town. The route from Kemp 
runs through Castaic (6) to Saugus (5), where the main line 
of the Southern Pacific (Valley Route) is joined. This line 
from Saugus continues through Fernando and Burbank to 
Los Angeles, and is described under the route, "Bakersfield 
to Los Angeles.'' (Consult Table of Contents.) 



9. Los Angeles 

LOS ANGELES is situated on a broad plain sloping toward 
the Pacific Ocean, 16 miles distant; to the north rise the high 
mountains of the San Gabriel Range and the Sierra Madre, 
while the plain is broken in other directions by hills and 
mountains of lesser elevation. Los Angeles is known abroad 
as the "ideal tourist city," and not the least of her attractions 
for travelers is the picturesque location. The pleasures of 
the beaches and mountain-tops within easy reach of the city 
add to the charm. The city is the metropolis of Southern Cal- 
ifornia and of the great Southwest. The import- 
ance of the metropolitan area of which Los Angeles is the 
center may be judged by the fact that there are over fifty 
towns and cities of considerable size which may be considered 
as suburbs, as well as thousands of acres of thickly settled 
land, devoted mainly to orange culture. The territory to the 
east of Los Angeles is the greatest citrus fruit region in the 
world. This is one of the contributing causes to the growth 
of the city. Another is the climate, famous the world over. 
The annual average temperature is 62 degrees, while the aver- 
age yearly rainfall is 15.55 inches. Besides soil and climate, 
location has been a factor in the upbuilding of the community, 
and this will increase in force with the development of Port 
Los Angeles, on San Pedro Bay, with its facilities for com- 
merce and manufacturing. 

All of these advantages which Los Angelea Is acknowledged 
to possess have caused one of the most remarkable growths 



137 

of population recorded in history. From a little Spanish 
pueblo thirty years ago the community has sprung into a mod- 
ern American city, one of the most progressive and energetic 
in the United States. Most of this development has come 
within the last ten years. The official figures are instructive. 
In 1890 the population was 50,395; in 1900, it was 102,479; in 
1910, 319,198. The present population is about 500,000. Other 
statistics show the importance and progressiveness of the city 
today. The taxable wealth is $496,522,390. The banks number 
41, with deposits aggregating $181,886,445. The bank clearings 
for the year 1912 were $1,168,941,700. The value of building 
permits issued in 1912 amounted to $31,366,357. Over $11,- 
000,000 is being spent by the city and the federal government 
on the improvement of San Pedro harbor, described in a later 
paragraph. There are 2,400 manufacturing establishments 
in Los Angeles, their total annual output being valued at $85,- 
000,000. There are 127 public school buildings, 22 public parks, 
with a combined area of 3,897 acres; 312 churches, represent- 
ing all denominations. Twenty-five years ago there was not 
a single paved street in Los Angeles; now the city has over 
600 miles of graded and graveled streets, 102 miles of paved 
thoroughfares and 467 miles of sewers. The commercial im- 
portance of the city is considered later under the description 
of Fort Los Angeles (San Pedro). 

One of the most remarkable engineering works ever under- 
taken by a municipality is the great Los Angeles Aqueduct. 
The city possesses water rights for manj' miles along the 
banks of the Owens River, in Inyo county, and from there the 
water will be brought to Los Ange'es, a distance of 240 miles, 
by means of an aqueduct and more than 20 miles of tunnels. 
The cost of the enterprise was estimated at ?23,000,000, and it 
will be completed for less. The aqueduct will supply water 
sufficient for 2,000,000 people. Much of this can be used for 
irrigation and the water will also furnish a great amount of 
electric power for lighting and factories. The aqueduct is 
the longest in the world; it will carry ten times as much wa- 
ter as was furnished by all the famous aqueducts of ancient 
Rome combined. There will be 258,000,000 gallons of water 
a day delivered into the San Fernando reservoir, 25 miles 
northwest of the Los Angeles city hall; this is one of the six 
reservoirs included in the project. No pumping plants will be 
required, as the system is gravity throughout. This great 
water course is constructed entirely of steel and concrete, 
an army of almost 4,000 men being employed in its constrac- 
tion. 

The history of Los Angeles holds much of interest; it can 
here be briefly summarized. On August 2, 1769, Caspar 



188 

de Portola, governor of California, crossed the San Gabriel 
River with 64 men. Among the party were Fathers Juan 
Crespi and Francisco Gomez. The site of the present city, 
because of the date (a Franciscan feast day), they called 
"Our Lady the Queen of the Angels," or in th sonorous Span- 
ish, "Nuestra Senora la Reina de Los Angeles." There was an 
Indian village in this region, but the first settlement by whites 
was not until 1781. On September 4 of that year a company 
of pcb adores, or colonists, founded the pueblo of Los Angeles. 
These people had been brought frora the states of Sonora and 
Sinalca, Mexico, tor the purpose of establishing an agricul- 
tural settlement to raise produce for the soldiers at the pre- 
sidios throughout California. This little band was a mixed 
assemblage; there were 72 Spanish-Americans, 1 European, 
■f Indi-^ns, 22 mulattoes and 39 Mestizos. The Mission Church 
of Nuestra Senora de los Angeles (described later), was com- 
pleted in 1822. The town grew slowly, and in 1831, fifty years 
after the founding, it had only 770 inhabitants. The popula- 
tion in January, 1847, was 1,500. In the Mexican War the 
town was the scene of important miUtary operations. After 
the American occupation it continued to be a small though 
distinctive town, until the completion of the Atlantic and 
Pacific railway in 1885. Since that date it has been the 
metropolis of Southern California. Its phenomenal growth 
during the last twenty-five years has been described already. 

Not the least of the attractions of Los Angeles to the tour- 
ist are the residence districts; in fact, many visitors decide to 
make their permanent abode in Los Angeles after viewing the 
comfortable homes of the city. Along the wide tree-lined 
avenues are row after row of beautiful homes. Many of them 
are built in the famous Mission architecture. The original 
East Indian bungalow style has been modified and developed 
in this region so that now it is scarcely less distinctively 
Californian than is the Mission style. Most of the streets are 
lined with palms; the homes occupy spacious lots, with flowers 
and lawns surrounding them. The conditions of solid comfort 
in the homes of Los Angeles add vastly to the city's charni. 
There are a number of attractive residence districts, probably 
the finest homes being westerly of the business section. 
Northwest of the mercantile center is the Angelino Heights 
district; to the southwest are Arlington Heights, Pico Heights 
and the University District. To the northeast are the East 
Side, Garvanza and Highland Park; to the east are Boyle 
Heights and Brooklyn Heights. Vernon is southeast of the 
mercantile center. The Westlake District lies to the west. 
East of the Plaza is Chinatown, while north of the Plaza is 
Sonora Town, or the Mexican quarter. 



139 

The business section of Los Angeles extends for a mile or 
more along Broadwa5% Main street and Spring street, and the 
thoroughfares adjacent. The fashionable shopping district 
is mainly along Broadway. The retail stores rival those of 
New York, Chicago and San Francisco in their variety of 
wares and commodious quarters. The business streets are 
lined with office buildings of steel and concrete, with stately 
public structures, theaters, clubs, restaurants, shops and lux- 
urious hotels. Nothing is lacking in the equipment of Los An- 
geles to mark it as a modern American city of the first class. 
The wholesale and manufacturing districts extend eastward 
from Los Angeles street to the bed of the Los Angeles river 
and northward from the X^laza. Los Angeles is one of the 
best lighted cities in the world. 

There are many fine public buildings in the city. TTie 
Federal Building (Postoffice) is an imposing edifice situated 
at Temple and North Spring streets. The City Hall is situated 
on the east side of Broadway, between Second and Third 
streets. The County Court House and the Hall of Records 
stand together at Broadway and Temple street, two blocks 
north of First street. The Los Angeles Public Library is lo- 
cated at 320 West Eighth street; it has a collection of 203,555 
volumes; ther are 41 branches in the city, of which 22 have 
reading rooms. The Chamber of Commerce occupies a hand- 
some building of its own, 122 to 134 South Broadway, and 
is visited by hundreds of thousands of people yearly, the aver- 
age annual registration being 185,000. Information and liter- 
ature concerning Los Angeles and every part of the state 
may be obtained here. TTiere is a large free exhibit of nat- 
ural and manufactured products of Southern California on 
the second and third floors. In the Assembly Hall are given 
free lectures daily concerning the resources and scenic attrac- 
tions of California; these are illustrated with stereopticon 
lantern slides and moving pictures. The Temple Auditorium 
is at Olive and West Fifth streets, facing Central Park. This 
is the largest structure of its kind in the country, is built of 
reinforced concrete and is fireproof. It includes an auditorium 
seating 4,000, a banquet hall to serve 1,000, two large concert 
halls and an office building. 

The State Normal School building at the corner of Fifth 
street and Grand avenue, cost $150,000. The University of 
Southern California is a richly endowed institution and splen- 
didly equipped, with a College of Law, College of Dentistry 
and College of Fine Arts, in addition to the usual curriculum 
in the College of Liberal Arts. The principal group of build- 
ings is in the southern part of the city, on Wesley avenue. 



140 

There are over two thousand pupils enrolled in the various 
col'eges. Another leading educational institution is Occidental 
College, located at Highland Park; there are 300 students. 
The white granite and marble buildings occupied by the Poly- 
technic High School are among the finest public school struc- 
tures in America; they are situated in the block at the head 
of Hope street, on Washington street. TTiere are 127 public 
schools in Los Angeles, with 1,680 teachers and over 50,000 
pupils. Among the private schools and academies are the 
Harvard Military School (Western avenue, corner of Six- 
teenth street). Girls' Collegiate School (Adams and Hoover 
streets), Los Angeles Academy (920 West Ninth street), Los 
Angeles Conservatory of Music and Arts (Walker Auditorium 
building, 730 Sorth Grand avenue), Los Angeles Military 
Academy, Los Angeles School of Art and Design, St. Vincent's 
College, Westlake School for Girls (612 South Alvarado 
avenue). 

The Southwest Museum contains one of the most valuable 
and interesting coPections on the Pacific Coast. It is the 
property of the Southwest Society, Archaeological Institute of 
America, and Southwest Museum, Incorporated. Established 
in 1903, the endowment of the museum now amounts to over 
$300,000. The present quarters of the museum are in rooms 
of the Hamburger building, 320 West Eighth street. The fu- 
ture location will be largely on Museum Hill, in the north- 
eastern part of the city (Avenue 46, opposite Sycamore 
Grove), where sixteen acres have been purchased for a site 
and a handsome building is being erected. The collections 
cover the archaeology and history of the Southwest. They 
include the relics of General John C. Fremont, many of 
Junipero Serra and other early Franciscan missionaries, re- 
minders of o]d Spanish days in Southern California and a vast 
amount of other material relating to the Southwest during 
historic and prehistoric times. The library comprises 4,500 
volumes. The museum is open to the public daily except Sun- 
day from 2 to 4 p. m. The exhibit of the Los Angeles Chamber 
of Mines and Oil, located in the Germain building, 224 South 
Spring street, is of interest to those investigating the natural 
resources of the state. Tliere are also interesting collections 
in the museum building in Exposition Park (see below). 
There are art exhibitions at Blanchard Hall (233 South 
Broadway), Kanst Gallery (642 South Spring street) and 
Steckel Gallery (336i^ South Broadway). 

There are churches in Los Angeles representing all the 
leading denominations, the buildings numbering 312. The 
church architecture adds much to the beauty of the city. The 



141 

St. Paul's Pro-Cathedral (Episcopalian) is at 523 South Olive 
street. St. John's Episcopal church is at Figueroa and Adams 
streets. The Cathedral of St. Vibiana (Roman Catholic) is 
situated on Main street, between Second and Third. St. 
"Vincent's is a magnificent Roman Catholic church at Grand 
avenue and Washington streets. The Broadway Church of 
Christ (Christian) is opposite the Court House on Broadway; 
First Christian church at the corner of Hope and Eleventh 
streets; First Baptist church at 725 South Flower street; 
First Congregational church at 837 South Hope street. The 
First Church of the Nazarene is situated at the corner of 
Sixth and WaU streets; T'rinity Methodist Episcopal Church 
South is at Ninth street and Grand avenue; Central Methodist 
Episcopal at 133 West Fifteenth street; First Methodist at the 
corner of Sixth and Hill streets. The First Presbyterian 
church is at Twentieth and Figueroa streets; Immanuel Pres- 
byterian, at the corner of Tenth and Figueroa streets; 
Central Presbyterian at 220 South Hill street; Cumberland 
Presbyterian, on Union avenue near Tenth street. The First 
Unitarian church is at 925 South Flower street The First 
English Lutheran church is nearby at 80'0 South Flower 
street. The First Universalist church is at 1500 Figueroa 
street. TTie Friends' church is at Third and Fremont streets. 
The Channing Street Mission (Brethren) is situated between 
Ninth and Tenth streets, on Channing. The Seventh Day Ad- 
vent church is at 133 North Twenty-second avenue. The 
Boyle Heights Holiness church is at 131 North Chicago 
street. The Fellowship church is at 101 Blanchard building, 
Broadway between Second and Third streets. TTie First 
Church of Christ, Scientist, is on Seventeenth street near 
Figueroa; the Second Church of Christ, Scientist, is on West 
Adams street, near Hoover. The Jewish synagogue, Congre- 
gation B'nai B'rith, is at the corner of Ninth and Hope streets. 
These are on'y a few of the leading churches; the others may 
be found in the city directory and in the Saturday newspapers. 
The large Young Men's Christian Association building is lo- 
cated at Seventh and Hope streets; the Young Women's Chris- 
tian Association has its headquarters at Third and Hill 
streets. 

The oldest church in the city is the so-called Mission 
Church of Our Lady of the Angels (Nuestra Senora de los 
Angeles), which faces the Plaza on North Main street (take 
North Broadway car). The church and buildings are in an ex- 
cellent state of preservation and services are regularly held 
in the chapel. This is not, strictly speaking, a mission; it 
was founded as the pueblo church of Los Angeles. The citi- 



142 

zens gained permission to build a church in 1811, and laid the 
cornerstone in 1814, but the building was not completed and 
dedicated until December 8, 1822. The present structure was 
built in 1861, out of material taken from the old building. 
There are some curious paintings to be seen in the church. 
The work of Indian neophytes in the old mission days, they 
o.re for the most part rather crude. The chorals, vestments 
and paintings brought originally from Spain are equally in- 
teresting, and the pictures are of higher artistic merit. The 
Inner court or patio adjoining the chapel, and the church gar- 
den are worthy of a visit. 

Among the imposing buildings of Los Angeles the hotels 
hold no small position. Some of the greatest tourist hotels 
in the country are located within the city limits, and there 
are others (mentioned later) at Pasadena, Long Beach and 
other nearby cities. The largest hostelries, perhaps, are the 
Alexandria, the Van Nuys, the Lankeishim, the Westminster 
and the Angelus, but there are a great number of commodious 
hotels throughout the down-town section and in the suburbs. 
Los Angeles has accommodations in her hotels alone for 
3 00,000 visitors. Among the city's hotels a few of the most 
representative are here mentioned: Hotel Alexandria, E. P. 
$2 up; Angelus, E. P. $1.50 up; Auditorium, E. P. $1 up; Al- 
varado, A. P. $2.50 up; Alhambra, E. P. $1 up; Antlers, E. P. 
$1 up; Balboa, E. P. $1 up; Baltimore, E. P. 75 cents to $2; 
Chickasaw, E. P. $1 up; Chapman, E. P. 75 cents up; Fremont, 
A. P. $2.50 up; Gates, B. P. $1 up; Hollenbeck, E. P. $1 up; 
Hay ward, E. P. $1 up; Heinzeman, E. P. $1 up, A. P. $2.50 up; 
Huntington, E. P. $1 up without bath, $1.50 up with bath; In- 
graham, A. P. $2.50 up; King Edward, E. P. 75 cents up; Lank- 
ershim, E. P. $1.50 up; Leighton, A. P. $3.50 up; Lakeview, A. 
P. $2.50 up; Melrose, A. P. $2.50' up; Nadeau, E. P. $1 up; New 
Broadway, E. P. 75 cents up; Natick, E. P. 50 cents up, A. P. 
^1.25 up; Occidental, E. P 75 cents up; Pepper, A. P. $2 up; 
Pleasanton, A. P. $2 up; Rosslyn, E. P. $1 up, A. P. $1.50 up; 
Sherman, E. P. $1 up; Snow, E. P. $1 up; Trenton, E. P. $1 up; 
Valdemar, E. P. 75 cents up; Van Nuys, E. P. $1.50 up; Vic- 
toria, E. P. $1 up; Watson, E. P. $1 up; Westminster, E. P. $1 
up; Westmoore, A. P. $2.50 up; Woodward, E. P. $1 up, A. P. 
$2 up. 

The theaters of Los Angeles include some of the finest on 
the Pacific Coast. TTie leading playhouses are the Mason 
(Broadway, near Second street). Majestic (Broadway, near 
Eighth), Morosco (Broadway, between Seventh and Eighth 
streets), Burbank (Main and Sixth streets). Century (Main 
street, between Fifth and Sixth), Auditorium (Fifth and Olive 



143 

streets), Empress (Spring street, near Fourth), Orpheum 
(Broadway, between Sixth and Sevenrh streets), Grand Opera 
House (First and Main streets), Belasco (325 South Main 
street), Los Angeles (334 South Spring street), Princess (119 
West First street). Unique (East Third street), Clune's (Fifth 
and Main streets; Broadway, between Fifth and Sixth 
streets). Tally's (Broadway near Eighth), Walker's (Grand 
avenue, near Seventh). 

Several of the public parks of Los Angeles are of consider- 
able size and contain attractions for the visitor. Westlake 
Park is situated at Seventh and Alvarado streets (end of 
Seventh-street car line). This is a highly cultivated area of 
35 acres, with pleasant walks and drives and a boating lake. 
Eastlake Park, in East Los Angeles at Mission road and Al- 
hambra avenue is a tract of fifty acres (reached by North 
Broadway or North Main-street cars). This park contains 
many attractions for children, as it has playgrounds with 
swings and a merry-go-round, a zoo and a boating lake. There 
is a'so a botanical exhibit. Hollenbeck Park is situated in the 
Boyle Heights district, on the east side of the river (reached 
by East Fourth street and Cummings street lines). The tract 
is about 20 acres in extent and contains a long, winding lake, 
surrounded by picturesque shrubbery. Central Park, the best 
improved of all the municipal parks, is on Sixth street, not 
far from the business center. Echo Park, at Temple street 
and Lake Shore avenue, contains the largest body of water in 
the city, Echo Lake. This is excellent for boating; there are 
tree-covered islands in the lake and it is spanned here and 
there by bridges. TTiere is also a children's playground; the 
total area of the park is about 30 acres. It is reached by th<? 
Temple-street car line. Exposition Park, at Santa Monica anC 
University avenue, formerly known as Agricultural Park, is 
undergoing extensive improvements. The Art and Science iVIu- 
seum is open from 10 a. m. to 4 p. m. on week days, and from 2 
TO 4 p. m. on Sundays. The exhibits include a collection of 
fossils, mounted birds, butterflies and other scientific speci- 
mens. There are also a grandstand and a race course in the 
park. The total area is 110 acres. It may be reached from 
the main business center, West Jefferson car on Main street 
and the University car on Spring street. 

Griffith Park is a large mountain reserve belonging to the 
city and lying back of Hollywood (reached by Hollywood car 
to Vermont or Western avenues; by Burbank car to Vine 
street). The views over the city and the adjoining lowlands 
are splendid. There are large picnic grounds in the park, 
with plenty of fresh water and shady trees. A fine automobile 




CENTRAL PART OF THE 



146 

road leads through the park and there are mi^es of bridle 
paths and trails. Griffith Park is the site of the new zoological 
gardens and public golf course. The aviation field lies on the 
north side of the park. Another public recreation ground 
which almost is in its natural state is Elysian Park, situated 
at North Broadway and the Los Angeles River (reached by 
North Broadway car on Broadway, and Garvanza car on Main 
street). T'his reservation contains 548 acres overlooking the 
river valley, with commanding views of city, mountain, ocean 
and plain. There are many interesting trails through the park. 
Much of the tract (548 acres in extent) is covered with trees 
and underbrush; this is a remnant of the thousands of acres 
of such land which the city formerly owned. Sycamore Grove, 
at Avenue Forty-nine and Pasadena avenue, is a park of 20 
acres, situated among the hills (reached by South Pasadena 
and Annandale cars, on Main street). This park has large 
trees, flowers, lawns and other improvements and is popular as 
a picnic place. Besides the parks already mentioned there 
are many smaller plazas scattered through the city. Among 
these are Ascot Park (Slauson and Central avenues), Prospect 
Park (Echandia, Mitchell and Judson streets), South Park 
(South Park avenue and Fifty-first street), Sunset Park (West 
Sisth street, between Boston street and Commonwealth ave- 
nue). Terrace Park (West Pico and Alvarado streets). 

Among the amusement parks of Los Angeles are Luna 
Park (corner of Main and Washington streets) and Fiesta 
Park (bounded by Grand avenue, Pico, Hope and Twe'fth 
streets). The Baseball Park is at the corner of Grand avenue 
and Washington street; the national game is furnished here 
diOi^ing the season every afternoon, except Mondays and 
Thursdays. On Thursday afternoons and Sunday mornings 
games are played at Venice; the Los Angeles and Venice 
teams of the Pacific Coast League (Class AA), are the base- 
ball representatives of the southern metropolis. TTie Alligator 
Farm (adjoining Eastlake Park) is a point of unusual interest. 
Here are to be seen hundreds of saurians of all sizes, the 
largest coFection known to exist. Special exhibitions are 
given daily at 4 p. m. of trained alligators; guides conduct 
visitors through the farm, explaining the habits and life of 
the alligators. "Okeechobee," the largest specimen in captiv- 
ity, is estimated to be 500 years old. The Pigeon Farm repre- 
sents another interesting industry (take Garvanza car north- 
ward on Main street to Dayton avenue). There are here 
3 00,000 old birds producing 450.000 young ones per annum. 
The Cawston Ostrich Farm at South Pasadena is described 
^ater under Pasadena. An excellent birdseye view of Los An- 
geles is had from the Angels' Flight (Hill and Third streets). 



147 

This includes a cable incline and observation tower, as well 
as a camera obscnra. The Bimini Baths include a good swim- 
ming pool; there is also a hotel in connection (take Bimini 
Bath car on Broadway). The waters here are from warm 
mineral springs (104 degrees Fahrenheit), discovered in 1900 
at a depth of 1,750 feet while boring for oil. Among the 
amusement places of Los Angeles the beach resorts hold a 
high place, and these are described fully in the side trips from 
the city (see pages following). 

Chinatown, situated east of the Plaza, holds much of in- 
terest to the tourist. It lies principally a^ong North Los An- 
geles and Marchessault streets, occupying eight blocks (reached 
by Main-street cars). This is one of the largest Chinese quar- 
ters outside of the Orient and offers opportunities to view 
Chinese life in its various phases, social, religious and com- 
mercial. TTie Chinese stores, restaurants and markets, the 
Joss House, Temple of Worship and Shrine, are all points of 
interest. The Chinese Theater is at 212 Marchessault street. 
Parties for the tour of Chinatown leave the information bu- 
reau at the Pacific Electric Depot (Sixth and Main streets) 
every evening at 8 o'clock. An experienced guide-lecturer ac- 
companies each party. 

There are excellent facilities for tourists with only a lim- 
ited time to see the main points of interest in Los Angeles. 
The "Seeing Los Angeles" Observation Car leaves Fourth and 
Spring streets daily at 2 p. m., taking the tourist on a ride of 
40 miles through the business and residence districts (fare, 
50 cents; time of trip, 3 hours). This trip includes free ad- 
mission to the Los Angeles Ostrich Farm and the Pigeon Farm 
at Garvanza. There are a number of regular automobile 
sight-seeing tours. 

No visit to Los iVngeles is complete without seeing the 
surrounding country. TTiis region has so much interest for 
tourists that the various cities and towns reached from Los 
Angeles will be treated separately as side-trips (see below). 
If the tourist has not time to visit them one by one he may 
use to advantage the special trips of the Pacific Electric 
Railway — the Balloon Route T'rolley Trip, the Triangle Trolley 
Trip and the Old Mission Trolley Trip. Each of these tours 
occupies an entire day, the fare for the round trip being $1 
(cars leave at 9:30 a. m. from Main and Sixth streets. All 
tickets include free admission to various attractions. The 
Balloon Route is a scenic ride of surpassing beauty paralleling 
the mountains from Los Angeles to the ocean and then along 
the beaches for 28 miles; the tourist passes through Holly- 
wood, Beverly Hills, Sawtelle (National Soldiers' Home), 



148 

Santa Monica, Redondo Beach, Moonstone Beach, Playa del 
Rey, Venice and Ocean Park. The Triangle Trip is through 
the garden spots to the south of Los Angeles, the cities and 
beaches of the South Coast; among the places visited are 
Santa Ana, Huntington Beach, Naples, Long Beach (where a 
stop of two hours is made). Point Firmin, San Pedro and 
Aviation Field. The Old iVlission Trip includes a ride skirting 
the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains and through the 
beautiful cities northeast of Los Angeles; tne tourist sees 
San Gabriel and its old Mission, Alhambra, Pasadena (where 
a stop of two hours is made), Glendora, Monrovia, Oneonta, 
South Pasadena and the Cawston Ostrich Farm. There are 
several longer one-day excursions by rail from Los Angeles 
to the cities lying to the east. The Kite-Shaped Track trip of 
the Santa Fe system embraces stops at Riverside and Red- 
lands. The Orange Belt Excursion makes a rapid run to Red- 
lands and Riverside; this trip is over the lines of the Salt 
Lake Route and the Southern Pacific. The Inside Track trip 
of the Southern Pacific stops at Pomona, Ontario, Redlands 
and Riverside. Descriptions of the cities of Pomona, Ontario, 
Riverside, Redlands and smaller communities passed through 
on these trips are given in other parts of this book (consult 
index). 

The various side trips from Los Angeles will now be taken 
up in detail. These are (a) Pasadena and South Pasadena, 
(b) San Gabriel, (c) Hol'ywood, (d) Santa Monica, (e) Venice, 
(f) Redondo, (g) San Pedro, (h) Santa Catalina Island, (i) 
Long Beach, (j) Naples, Huntington Beach, Balboa, (k) Mount 
Lowe, (1) Mount Wilson, (m) other side trips. 

(a) Pasadena and South Pasadena 

PASADENA, the "Crown of the Valley" (the signification 
of its Indian name), is situated about six miles east of Los 
Angeles (reached by Pacific Electric and railroad). The sit- 
uation of the city is superb. The mountains of the Sierra 
Madre rise on three sides of the San Gabriel Valley, while the 
country toward the ocean is open. Pasadena enjoys a world- 
wide reputation as a health and recreation resort. The sump- 
tuous hotels of the city hold a rank equal with that of any 
in the country. The largest of these are the Raymond, Green 
and Maryland, but there are a number of other excellent re- 
sort hotels. All of them are situated in beautiful grounds. 

The residence sections of Pasadena contain some of the 
finest homes in the state; in fact, the city is noted for the num- 
ber of wealthy people who dwell within it. Some of the most 



149 

palatial residences are along Orange Grove avenue. The 
sunken gardens at the homes of Adolphus Busch and Hulett 
C. Merritt are unique and beautiful in their landscape garden- 
ing; they are of unfailing interest to sightseers. Throughout 
the city the streets are made attractive with a wealth of 
trees, shrubs and flowers, many of them from semi-tropic 
climes. This luxuriant growth which makes the entire city vir- 
tually a great flower garden has rendered famous the Tourna- 
ment of Roses, which is held in Pasadena every January. 
Flower battles and floral parades on New Year's Day are feat- 
ures of the carnival. 

The city of Pasadena is one of the fastest growing commun- 
ities in the United States. The population in 1910 was 30,291 
in 1900 it was 9,117. While the growth of the city has been 
mainly as a residential center, there is also a substantial busi- 
ness section. There are imposing public buildings. The free 
library occupies a handsome structure. There are a number 
of notable private schools, including the Throop Polytechnic 
Institute and the Orton School, as well as the excellent public 
schools. The hotels of Pasadena are Plotel Raymond (A. P. $5 
up). Hotel Maryland (A. P. $4 up), Hotel Green, Hotel Guir- 
nalda (A. P. $8 up), Hotel Astoria, Hotel Carlton, La Casa 
Grande (A. P. $2.50 up). 

SOUTH PASADENA is a residence suburb of Los Angeles 
(take South Pasadena car of Pacific Electric Railway). The 
principal point of interest is the celebrated Cawston Ostrich 
Farm. The farm is situated in a semi-tropic park of great 
beauty. There is here the largest flock of ostriches in Amer- 
ica. Besides many smaller birds, there are 150 gi- 
gantic ostriches always on exhibition. The amusing gambols 
and antics, the feeding and the domestic habits of these 
strange birds are sources of unfailing interest to visitors, more 
than 100,000 of whom view them in a year. This farm was 
established in 1886 with ostriches brought from South Africa 
by Mr. Edwin Cawston. This was the first of the CaMfornia 
ostrich farms and opened the way for a new and interesting 
industry. At the Cawston farm may be seen an almost price- 
less collection of plumes; the great incubators are the largest 
of their kind. Another point of interest in the park is the 
aviary of rare birds. 

(b) San Gabriel 

SAN GABRIEL is situated in the San Gabriel Valley, 7 
miles northeast of Los Angeles (reached by Pacific Electric 
line and Southern Pacific). The town itself is interesting, 




Los Angeles and Vicinity. 



151 

preserving much of the old California spirit; many quaint 
adobe houses line the roadsides. To the tourist the place is 
interesting especially as the location of the Deautiful San Ga- 
briel Mission and as the seat of the Mission Play, a pageant- 
drama representing early California history. 

MISSION SAN GABRIEL is one of the most interesting 
of the Franciscan establishments in California. The archi- 
tecture of the church differs somewhat from the usual style 
of the mission. A pleasing feature of the exterior is the 
campanile, or bell tower, with its six open arches. To the 
left of the campanile is the long wall, with its ten massive 
buttresses, which give the air of solidity to the edifice. An- 
other picturesque feature is the stone stairway which leads 
to the choir loft; an old pepper tree shades the steps. The 
entire church is of stone and plaster. The roof was originally 
arched and there was a tower, but the earthquake of 1804 
so severely damaged these that the roof was restored in its 
present shape and the tower was not rebuilt. 

The interior of the church contains much of interest. The 
ceiling is paneled with oak; the walls are plastered and hung 
with old paintings of the apostles. The figures back of the 
altar are some of the most valued art treasures in California; 
most of them belong to the original decorations of the church, 
brought from Mexico. The central figure above is that of the 
name-saint of the mission, St. Gabriel (San Gabriel); to the 
right is St. Padua and to the left St. Francis. In the center 
below is a figure of the Virgin Mary, with St. Dominic to the 
right and St. Joachim to the left. Under the floor of the 
church are the graves of many of the leading persons in the 
history of California under Spanish rule. At the foot of the 
altar is buried Father Jose Sanchez, at one time president of 
all the missions in Alta California; within the walls also are 
the tombs of Fathers Boscano, Antonio Crusado and Miguel 
Sanchez, who guided San Miguel in its early progress. Many 
of the decorations used from the foundation of the mission 
can yet be seen here, and they form a collection of relics 
which can scarcely be equalled elsewhere in the state. There 
are old robes and vestments, frescoes and paintings, original 
Mission furniture and fixtures, and other objects illustrating 
life in the early years of this region. Of particular value are 
the antique books and documents; the records of the mission 
are intact and are accessible to visitors. Objects of interest 
preserved for over a century include the old brass font, the 
silver bowl and sprinkler for holy water, the brass candle- 
sticks and the odd silver baptismal shell. 



152 

The little cemetery, situated at the rear of the church, is 
said to contain the bodies of 7,000 of the Indian neophytes; 
they are believed to have been interred very deep and one 
upon another. There are also here the graves of members of 
early Spanish and Mexican families. The oldest orange 
groves in the state are at San Gabriel, where Father Sanchez 
set out the jRrst tree about 1771; several of the ancient trees 
remain; these are not the ancestors of most of the orange 
trees of California, as the original stock of the naval oranges 
of the state was brought many years later from Bahia, Brazil 
(see under Riverside). At the San Gabriel Mission were 
planted also the first vineyards in California and a number 
of vines which have gained a great size may be seen. These 
grapes belong to the Mission variety, still extensively grown 
throughout the state; they were brought by the padres from 
Mexico. 



Mission San Gabriel Archangel was founded September 
8, 1771, by Fathers Angel Somera and Pedro Benito Cambon; 
it was the fourth established in California. The original site 
of the church was nearer the San Gabriel River. The pres- 
ent church, the only building remaining of the once large 
establishment, was completed in 1800. At that time there 
were 1,078 neophytes at the mission, 1,953 persons had been 
baptized, 869 had been buried in the churchyard and 296 
couples had been married. San Gabriel continued for years 
as one of the most prosperous of the Franciscan missionary 
outposts and was widely known throughout California as 
"The Pride of the Missions." Not only in the number of 
converts, but in worldly wealth as well, San Gabriel prospered. 
The total number of baptisms prior to secularization was 
7,709. After secularization, in 1832, the mission declined in 
wealth and prosperity. Since that time it has remained the 
parish church for the Catholics of the surrounding region. 

A point of interest in San Gabriel besides the mission is 
the Mission Play Theater, built opposite San Gabriel Mission. 
The theater is surrounded by attractive grounds and in the 
architectural design and the interior furnishings the Mission 
style has been followed throughout. The ''Mission Play" is 
the work of John Stevens McGroarty, and portrays in a strik- 
ing manner the life of early California. The production has 
received instantaneous recognition and approval and has been 
termed the "Passion Play of the New World." The play is 
produced every afternoon and evening from December to 
July, except Monday evening. 



153 



( c ) Hollywood 



HOLLYWOOD, a suburban section of Los Angeles recently 
incorporated with the larger municipality, is situated north- 
west of the business center (reached by Hollywood cars). 
The location of Hollywood in the foothills of Santa Monica 
Mountains, with the Cahuenga Valley below, affords an ex- 
cellent view over the city. The residences of Hollywood are 
among the finest in Los Angeles and these alone make a visit 
to the community pleasant and interesting. Hollywood was 
founded as a separate town in 1888, but most of the growth 
has come within the last eight years. The population of the 
district is about 10,000. 

There are a number of attractive public miildings. The 
Public Library is situated at the corner of Hollywood avenue 
and Ivar street; there are over lO.jOOO volumes. A short dis- 
tance to the west of the library is the Moorish villa of the 
late Paul de Longpre, the famous painter of flowers; the resi- 
dence and grounds are artistic and universally admired. The 
Italian Gardens at the residence of Mr. G. W. Wattles, seen 
from the Hollywood boulevard (to the north), are a remark- 
able example of landscape gardening. The Polytechnic High. 
School, situated in a 12-acre campus on Highland avenue near 
Sunset boulevard, is housed in imposing buildings and has a 
high standard of efficiency. Among the private schools of 
HoFywood are the College of the Immaculate Heart (for girls) 
and the Hollywood School for Girls, both surrounded by beau- 
tiful grounds. The public school system includes, besides 
the high school, grammar and primary schools and kinder- 
tens. 

The Hollywood Hotel, built in the Mission style, is one of 
the well known tourist hostelries of Southern California. It 
is situated at Olive avenue and Hollywood boulevard, and is 
surrounded with palms, tropical shrubr, everblooming flowers 
and rose gardens. Other hotels of Hollywood are the 
Mountain View Inn and Hotel Bonnie Brier (E. P.) ; there are 
also a number of excellent apartment houses. 

There are fine boulevards suitable for automobile driving 
in Hollywood. A suggested route is as follows: Along Ver- 
mont avenue to Sunset boulevard, and thence west to High- 
land avenue, where a turn is made to the north through the 
famous Cahuenga Pass and along the Calabasas Road to Lau- 
rel Canyon Inn, where the ascent of Lookout Mountain begins 
over the new serpentine road. From the top of this moun- 
tain is one of the grandest views in all of the Southland ; the 



154 

eye roams over the great city and its picturesque suburbs, the 
mountains and hills, and the ocean on the western horizon. 
The return on this auto route is made by way of Laurel Can- 
j'on, Hollywood boulevard and Franklin avenue. Throughout 
the trip are seen palatial residences, blooming gardens and 
pleasant vistas which charm the visitor. 

There are many points of interest about Hollywood. To 
the west (reached by Pacific Electric cars) is SHERMAN, 
where there are large power plants, car barns and machine 
shops of the electric lines; it is the eentei* of an oil district 
of prominence. Southwest of here is the Beverly Hills dis- 
trict, with many attractive residences. The Beverly Hills 
Hotel is popular with tourists (A. P. $3 up). Farther on (by 
way of the Pacific Electric lines) is the National Soldiers' 
Home, near Sawtelle. Here are the comfortable quarters of 
3,000 war veterans, situated in a park of 700 acres. From 
here is reached Santa Monica and the other beach cities (de- 
scribed later). The Cahuenga Valley, in which Hollywood is 
located, is a frostless belt which is a highly cultivated area, 
with orange, lemon, fig and walnut groves. At Cahuenga the 
native Californian forces under Colonel Andreas Pico surren- 
dered to the Americans under General Fremont, January 18, 
1847. This ended hostilities in California and gave the state 
into the hands of the Americans. 



(d) Santa Monica 



SANTA MONICA, 16 miles from Los Angeles, occupies an 
ideal situation on a high plateau above the Pacific Ocean, 
with its residence sections reaching back into the foothills. 
At the foot of the bluffs stretches for two miles a broad 
beach, one of the city's chief attractions. Back of the city 
rise the Santa Monica Mountains and they reach out to sca 
at the north, protecting the city from cold winds and making 
its climate pleasant at all seasons of the year. Santa Monica 
is known as a sum.mer and winter resort, as well as a pleasant 
place of residence. The population is about 20',000. The city 
is reached by three electric car lines from Los Angeles. 
(Windemere Hotel). 

As a beach resort, Santa Monica is popular; the beach it- 
self is one of the safest in Southern California, for there is no 
tide-rip or undertow. There are a great many amusement 
places along the seashore, among which are the Eraser Pier, 
Bristol Pier, Busch Casino and the Dragon's Gorge. Besides 
these the strand is lined with a large number of smaller 
pleasure concessions, and at night these are brilliantly lighted. 



155 

In the season there are popular band concerts in the Plaza. 
For those who enjoy fishing as a diversion, Santa Monica 
offers excellent opportunities, as there are few places on the 
coast where better sport is had; there are a number of good 
piers for the use of fishermen, among them the municipal 
Long Wharf. Over three miles of cement promenade joins 
Santa Monica with OCEAN PARK, on the south, where there 
is a great pleasure pier. (Hotel Decatur, E. P. $1 up.) The 
excellent bathing beach continues all the way. For those who 
prefer indoor bathing there is an immense bath-house at Santa 
Monica. 

The city has many fine boulevards, which are favorites 
with automobilists and motorcyclists. A great auto road race 
is held annuaUy at Santa Monica, most of the boulevards be- 
ing within the city limits. Many records have been broken 
in these races, testifying to the good condition in which the 
streets and roads are kept. One of the finest boulevards is 
along the bluffs overlooking the beach and the ocean. In 
back of Santa Monica is some picturesque canyon and moun- 
tain scenery, which is easily accesible. This combination of 
sea and highland vistas has proved a great asset to the city 
as a resort. There is good deer hunting in the Santa Monica 
Mountains in season. 

The public Buildings of Santa Monica are attractive. The 
City Hall is built along the Mission style of architecture and 
is a good example of its use in securing the best effect in 
municipal structures. The Public Library is another hand- 
some bui-ding, and contains a collection of 16,960 volumes. 
The new Polytechnic High School (cost $250,000) is a model 
institution of this character. Among the public plazas, Linda 
Vista Park deserves special notice; it is situated on the bluffs 
and affords a sweeping view over the ocean. 



( e ) Venice 



VENICE, 14 miles west of Los Angeles, is essentially an 
amusement place. Broad canals run along its streets, and 
much of the architecture is patterned after that of the Venice 
of the Old World. There are archways and pergolas, colon- 
ades and arcades a^ong Windward avenue which remind one 
of the beautiful "Queen of the Adriatic." The famous St. 
Mark's Plaza has its replica in the "Venice of America"; 
there are also graceful bridges spanning the canals and a 
Venetian Villa City, The likeness to the European city is 
heightened by the numerous gondolas which ply in the canals 
and by the famed ship hotel (Hotel Cabrillo), modelled after 



156 

the galleons of the Middle Ages, and apparently moored to the 
wharf. Another hotel at Venice is Hotel Windward (E. P. 
$1 up). 

There are many amusement features; in fact, Venice is 
said to be one of the best equipped with pleasure devices of 
any resort city on the coast. There are immense bath- 
houses, a fine promenade, a dancing pavilion and an auditor- 
ium. At the end of Windward avenue, built around a broad 
basin, is a Midway which contains many concessions much en- 
joyed by the light-hearted. Of this Coney Island variety of at- 
tractions perhaps the most prominent are the scenic and min- 
iature railroads and the racing coaster. There are many 
Oriental exhibits on the large pleasure pier. From the end of 
the pier there is good deep-sea fishing, and this spot is popu- 
lar with anglers. A novel amusement at Venice is night 
bathing in the glare of monster searchlights. The baseball 
park is another amusement attraction; games are played on 
Thursday afternoons and Sunday mornings. 

The Aquarium is notable, containing one of the finest 
marine collections on the Pacific Coast. Here may be seen 
the varied animal life of the Pacific Ocean, beautiful or hid- 
eous. Among the strange creatures are the octopus, the devil- 
crab, sharks, sea-hares, mottled and knobby sculpins and the 
kelpfish; there is also a splendid array of beautiful fish from 
Santa Catalina island. One could easily spend a day viewing 
the wonders of the aquarium and the interesting collection 
of Indian craftsmanship and relics of the cliff dwellers. 

T*wo miles south of Venice is PLAYA DEL REY, its Span- 
ish name signifying "the beach of the king." Here there is 
an extensive lagoon for boating and bathing; picnicking and 
fishing are other popular amusements. There is a big audi- 
torium; also a pavilion, with a dining room, attached. From 
Playa del Rey is had a fine view of Venice, with its spires 
and minaret-like towers. The resort may be reached by the 
Pacific Electric lines from Venice or Los Angeles. From 
here a line runs along the coast as far as Redondo. After 
passing through Holton and Hyperion, the traveler along this 
route reaches EL SEGUNDO. This is a new industrial city, 
16 miles from Los Angeles, where there are located the large 
refineries of the Standard Oil Company and a number of big 
factories. After leaving El Segundo the line runs through 
Peck's Beach, Manhattan (a popular resort), Shakespeare 
Beach and Hermosa Beach, a residence section and resort of 
note, to Redondo. 



157 



(f) Redondo 



REDONDO. 18 miles from Los Angeles, is a resort city and 
n commercial port of importance. It is reached direct from 
Los Angeles by the Santa Fe Railway or the Pacific Electric 
lines, or from Venice and the other coast resorts to the north. 
The situation of the city is picturesque; it is built in a series 
of broad terraces overlooking the Pacific. There are many 
beautiful residences and gardens; an attractive industry in 
the surrounding region is the growing of carnations, sweet 
peas and other flowers for commercial purposes, fiPing the 
salt air for miles around with their fragrance. The Esplanade 
is one of the finest boulevards, lined on both sides with stately 
homes, surrounded by a luxuriant growth of palms, semi-trop- 
ical plants and flowers. The municipal park on the bluff over- 
looking the ocean affords a fine view and the banks are ablaze 
with the amethyst sea-moss of the southern coast. The 
grounds of the Hotel Redondo are filled with tropical trees, 
native and imported. 

The amusement features of the city are many. The bath- 
ing beach is large and safe at all seasons of the year. The 
bath-house is the largest hot salt water plunge in the world; 
it is equipped to accommodate 7,000 bathers at one time; there 
are 1,350 dressing rooms. The auditorium has one of the 
largest dancing floors on the Pacific Coast; its architectural 
style is striking for that of an amusement pavilion, built as 
it is in the Mission style, with arcades along its front. There 
are daily afternoon band concerts in the summer, with danc- 
ing every evening except Sunday. The Sunday afternoon and 
evening concerts are especially fine, many distinguished solo- 
ists adding to the musical program. Another amusement 
feature of Redondo is the casino; there are a number of pleas- 
ure concessions. The fishing from the wharves is excellent; 
another popular diversion is yachting. 

The famous Moonstone Beach, to the north of Redondo, 
should be visited. Here are to be picked up along the surf- 
line great numbers of semi-precious stones. Among the vari- 
eties found here are moonstones, jasper, water-opals, sardonyx, 
opals, chalcedony, moss agates and carnelian. Many of these 
fragments of jewels from Nature's treasure box are of fairly 
regular shape and require no lapidary's cutting; when polished 
they make beautiful and valuable souvenirs. 

TTie commercial side of Redondo has been emphasized of 
recent years, for it has become a port of no small magnitude. 
Among the factories are mills and car shops. Redondo is 



158 

an important seaport for the lumber interests and the Stan- 
dard Oil Company. It is a United States port of entry and is 
the first point of call for the steamers of the Pacific Coast 
Steamship Company south of San Francisco. The population 
of the city is steadily increasing and numbers more than 

4,ooa 

( g ) San Pedro ( Port Los Angeles ) 

SAN PEDRO, or Pore Los Angeles, is a part of the city of 
Los Angeles and is situated 22 miles south of the center of the 
city. (Hotel Wiedewald, $2.) San Pedro is reached by the 
Southern Pacific, Salt Lake Route and Pacific Electric lines. 
There are extensive harbor improvements going on here. The 
federal government has spent $3,000,000 on the breakwater; 
the dredging of the inner channel is still under way. The pos- 
sible water frontage of the harbor is about 22 miles, and while 
it is almost entirely an artificial harbor, it promises to rank 
high among the ports of the world. Already steamship lines 
are in operation from San Pedro to the Hawaiian Islands, 
Mexico, Pacific and Atlantic ports, and with the opening of the 
Panama Canal this commerce will be materially increased. 
On the inner harbor at Wilmington are several immense 
lumber yards, where vessels discharge their cargoes direct. 
In 1912 San Pedro imported more lumber than any other port 
in the world; this included 720,000,000 feet of sawed lumber, 
251,982,000 shingles and a great number of shakes, laths, poles, 
posts, piles and ties; the aggregate was equivalent to almost 
800,000,000 feet of timber, with a wholesale value of approx- 
imately $20,000,000. 

The net tonnage of vessels entering the harbor in 1912 
amounted to 1,920,570 tons, and included 2,^87 steamers and 
]55 sailing vessels. During 1912, including the Avalon traffic, 
201,292 passengers arrived at the port and 214,308 departed. 
The extent of the fishing industry may be judged from the 
fact that over 5.000,000 pounds of fresh fish were shipped from 
San Pedro in that year; there are 700 men employed in the 
fisheries here. The exports include cement, merchandise, 
crude oil, plaster and asphalt; besides woodstuffs, the imports 
include merchandise, grain, crude oil, paper, flour, sheep, 
cattle and refined oil. 

The government and municipal works at the harbor afford 
considerable interest to visitors. The great breakwater, 
sheltering the eight-mile frontage of the outer harbor, is 
11,000 feet in length. It is 100 to 200 feet wide at the bottom, 
38 feet wide at low water and 20 feet at the top; it rises 14 



159 

feet above low water. T'he amount of stone used in the con- 
struction of the breakwater was 2,707,772 long tons. At the 
end of the breakwater is the United States light-house. The 
distance between the end of the seawall and the inner harbor 
opening is 4.000 feet, the depth ranging from 38 to 40 feet. 

At the entrance of the inner harbor, where extensive work 
is being carried on by the city in the way of dredging and 
general improvement, is Deadman's Island. This rocky island 
received its sinister name from the fact that here were buried 
six Americans killed in the battle of Dominguez, fought a few 
miles to the north, October 8 and 9, 1846. This was a victory 
for the Californians. under Carrillo and Flores. The bodies 
were later removed to the military cemetery at Wilmington. 
At the end of Deadman's Island there is now a government 
light-house. The inner harbor leads to a turning basin, in 
the shelter of Terminal Island, on which are the yards of the 
San Pedro, Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad (Salt Lake 
Route). Here also are many suburban and summer homes. 
The turning basin is 2^^ miles from the inner harbor entrance. 
T'he East Basin channel beyond here is now being dredged 
20 feet deep, 200 feet wide and 12,000' feet long from the turn- 
ing basin northeasterly. The West Basin channel is being 
dredsed to the same depth and width, and 5,100 feet long from 
the turning basin northwesterly. Adjoining the East Basin 
are the Wilmington Basin (adjoining the old town of Wilming- 
ton) and the Morm.on Island Channel. In the outer harbor 
are the West Channel and East Channel, well in the shelter of 
the seawaH. 

Stretching out to sea to the west of San Pedro Bay is 
Point Fermin. Here is some of the finest coast scenery in this 
region. The electric car runs to the brink of the cliffs, down 
which paths lead to the beach below, strewn with huge boul- 
ders. An incessantly beating surf lashes the base of the 
cliff, on which is situated the government light-house. Far 
out at sea may be seen the purple heights of Santa Catalina 
Island. On the bluffs to the west of the point the United 
States government has selected a site where strong fortifica- 
tions will be built as a protection to Los Angeles and the 
port. Farther west rise the San Pedro HiUs. Near San Pedro 
is the Aviation Field with its colossal grandstand, from which 
thousands have watched the world's greatest birdmen break 
records for speed and altitude. 

From San Pedro is reached Santa Catalina Island, or Cata- 
lina, as it is often called. This delightful side trip should be 
made by every tourist in Southern California, and is described 
on the next page. 



160 



(h) Santa Catalina Island 



SANTA CATALINA ISLAND rises out of the ocean 23 
miles from the city of San Pedro, and is reached from that 
place in less than two hours in a weF -appointed sea-going 
steamer that is spacious, comfortable and safe. Schools of 
flying fish and porpoise, playing about the vessel, afford 
amusement for the passengers. Santa Catalina is one of the 
Channel Islands, discovered by Cabrillo in 1542; the great 
navigator died and was buried on San Nicolas, an island of 
this group. Avalon Bay, the best harbor on Santa Catalina 
Island, is a veritable haven of rest. The town of AVALON, 
where the steamer docks, is a typical resort for tourists, 
having no less than thirty hotels, apartment houses, flats, 
bungalows, tents and the like for the accommodation of visit- 
ors; most are open the year round. There are also restau- 
rants, markets and delicacy stores. Avalon Bay is on the 
landward side of the island and is so perfectly protected from 
the sea winds that its waters are as calm as a mill pond. The 
smooth beach is a favorite bathing place for women and chil- 
dren, and is frequented by hundreds daily. The graceful cres- 
cent of the shore line gives an indescribable charm to the 
scene. 

Glass-bottomed boats, patrolling the waters of the bay at 
all hours, are filled with pleasure seekers who delight in view- 
ing the submarine gardens that here attain a perfection 
seldom equalled. The boats have dark-colored awnings or cov- 
ers above, an arrangement that permits passengers to peer 
through the glass bottoms and study at their leisure the won- 
ders of life beneath the surface. Plant life is abundant and 
beautiful. Shrubs and trees with luxuriant foliage wave in 
the moving tides like groves bending under the breezes above. 
The changes are kaleidoscopic, every hue of the rainbow ap- 
pearing in the ever-varying color scheme. The electric eel, 
the huge b'ack bass, the shapely, swift-darting tuna, the 
swordfish and bonita, the barracuda and the albicore may be 
taken with rod and reel. Boats fully equipped and manned 
for sea-fishing are offered for hire, making this form of sport 
as safe for the stranger as for the most experienced angler. 
Excursions by power launches are made to San Clemente 
Island when desired. 

Concerts by the Catalina orchestra are held in the Greek 
Theater, free to all. There is dancing in the open-air pavilion 
every night except Sunday. The aquarium is a point of in- 
terest to the visitors. Mountain coaching parties are organ- 



161 

ized nearly everj^ day, and these, with riding and driving, 
offer an unending source of diversion. Mountain climbing 
in mid-ocean is a sport that the tourist may enjoy when visit- 
ing Santa Catalina Island. Only the most robust, however, 
participate in this form of strenuous outdoor recreation. The 
island is in reality a range of mountains, 23 miles long and 
sufficiently rugged in its upper reaches to win the devotion 
of the most venturesome. The highest peak (Orizaba) has an 
elevation of 2,200 feet. For genuine excitement the visitor 
will choose a trip to the Crags, to hunt the wild goats. Horses, 
guides, rifles and other necessaries are obtainable on the 
island. The Catalina golf links are picturesque and well-liked 
by expert players. Near the clubhouse are tennis courts for 
the use of visitors to the island. The climate is so genial 
that camp life is enjoyed by families and large parties. Fur- 
nished cottages may be rented by those who prefer to "keep 
house" during their sojourn on the island. Wireless telegraph 
on the steamers and at Avalon afford continuous communica- 
tion with the mainland. The regular fare, round trip, from 
Los Angeles, is $2.75; week-end rate, $2.50 for round trip. 
Tickets may be had at Pacific Electric Building, No. 104 (main 
entrance), Los Angeles, or at the railway passenger 
stations. The principal hotels at Avalon are Hotel Metro- 
pole, E. P. $1 up; Ocean View, E. P. $1 up; Sea Beach, E. P. 
$1 up; Grand View, E. P. $1 up; Hotel Catalina, E. P. $1 up; 
Hotel Central, E. P. $1 up; Hotel del Mar, E. P. $1 up; Hotel 
Glenmore, 75 cents a day, meals a la carte; Stanford, with or 
without housekeeping, $1 up; Miramar, E. P. 75 cents up; Ho- 
tel Windsor, 75 cents up; Campus Virginia, tents, cottages, 
bungalows, 50 cents up; Morris Camp, tents and cottages, with 
or without housekeeping, 50 cents up. 



(i) Long Beach 



LONG BEACH is situated on the Pacific Ocean, 22 miles 
south of Los Angeles. It is reached by the Pacific Electric 
lines, the Southern Pacific Railroad and the Salt Lake Route. 
The location of the city is picturesque; from the bluff fronting 
on the strand a high mesa extends back to the foot of Signal 
Hill, o^y^ miles distant. The population of the city is rapidly 
increasing, and at present is over 25,000. There are three 
sides to the city's life which make it particularly attractive: 
)Long Beach is known as a resort, a residence city and as a 
commercial center. 

As an all-the-year-round resort, Long Beach has been long 
celebrated, earning the title "The Atlantic City of the West." 
The equable climate brings here thousands of visitors and 



162 

has caused the building of a number of tourist hotels. The 
Hotel A^irginia, facing the beach, is one of the largest and 
handsomest on the Pacific Coast (rates, A. P. $3 up). Among 
the other hotels of Long Beach are Hotel Julian (A. P. $2 up), 
The Riviera (E. P. 50 cents up) and Hotel Del Mar. Along 
the front of the city there is a broad expanse of gently sloping 
beach, where surf-bathing is enjoyed in winter and in summer. 
The great Long Beach bath-house offers opportunities for still- 
water bathing and high diving in the warm salt water. Along 
the beach extends a boulevard which is popular with automo- 
bilists, while at low tide the packed sand of the strand itself 
is used as an auto speedway. Parallel with the surf-line is a 
fine promenade tv/o miles in length, known eis the "Walk ot 
a Thousand Lights," because of the brilliant electric illumina- 
tion at night along its entire length. There are numerous 
amusement features on the Pike, a typical pleasure resort ar- 
cade near the municipal pier. Two privately owned amuse- 
ment piers, representing an outlay of $1,000',000, help to add to 
the appeal of Long Beach as a resort. The municipal pier 
reaches out into the Pacific for 1800 feet. It is double decked, 
with sun parlors and a promenade walk on the upper tier; 
from the lower deck leave the launches and pleasure-craft. On 
the lower deck, also, anglers may catch with rod and reel a 
large variety of food fish. The sea is usually calm beyond the 
breakers and in the deeper waters the fighting tuna, bonita 
and enormous sea-bass are taken. Trolling is the usual meth- 
od employed in catching these larger fish, and launches or row- 
boats may be hired at the pier. Regular trips are made to 
the fishing banks and to Santa Catalina Island, the home of 
game fish. Yachting is another popular aquatic sport at Long 
Beach. Many regattas are held; the headquarters of the Sun- 
set Yacht Club, the largest in Southern California, are at the 
Hotel Virginia, 

At the landward end of the pier is the great municipal 
Auditorium, overlooking the crowded Pike and the sweep of 
the seven-mile strand. Long Beach is a favorite convention 
city, and many meetings are held in the auditorium. Near the 
auditorium is the municipal band-stand, where the city's band 
of forty pieces gives daily concerts. 

As a residential city Long Beach has been a favorite since 
its attractiveness became generally known. The population 
in 1910 was 17,809, increasing from 2,252 in 1900, showing 
a gain for the decade of 690.8 per cent. The growth since the 
last census has been little less than phenomenal. The city 
has many artistic homes, with well-improved gardens and 
streets. There are five municipal parks, besides a series of 



163 



playgrounds for the children. Among the many notable 
boulevards are the Ocean Front boulevard, extending five 
miles along the bluffs above the surf; the Beach Drive, which 
comprises ten miles of ideal strand along the shore, and the 
boulevard from Los Angeles to Long Beach. This drive, a 
broad oil macadam roadway, is considered one of the best in 
California and is the delight of automobilists; its cost was 
$100,000. 

The city has attractive municipal buildings. The Public 
Library occupies a handsome stone structure in Central Park, 
one of the city's finely improved plazas. The library contains 
over 25,000 volumes; the loan exhibit of water color and oil 
paintings, etchings and other works of arts is of great value; 
there is also a display of objects illustrating modern artistic 
handiwork and craftsmanship. The Long Beach Polytechnic 
High School (built at a cost of $250',000) is one of the best 
equipped in the state: there are thirteen grammar schools. 
From Signal Hill, east of the city, is obtained a superb view 
of Long Beach and the surrounding region; the summit is 364 
feet above sea level. This eminence received its name from 
the fact that is was used as a signal station and point of ob- 
servation by General Fremont in the early days. On the 
Bixby Ranch, not far from the hill, is one of the oldest adobe 
houses in Southern California. 

The commercial side of Long Beach has come into prom- 
inence within the last fev/ years. Harbor improvement has 
been a prominent factor in bringing about this development. 
Through the utilization of municipal and private capital an ex- 
cellent artificial harbor has been created where once was only 
a waste of tide-lands. Fully $1,500,000 has been devoted to 
harbor development, and further improvements are planned 
and under way. A channel 7,000 feet long is projected to con- 
nect Long Beach harbor with Port Los Angeles. The city 
owns its own v/harvos and the tracks thereon are also mu- 
nicipal property. When the present plans are completed the 
city will have five miles of water frontage. 

The landward side of the harbor is sewed by the Pacific 
Electric, Southern Pacific and Salt Lake Route. The tracks 
of the latter span the harbor entrance, running over a bascule 
bridge, one of the largest of this type of bridge ever con- 
structed; the cost was $175,000. The harbor entrance is 
guarded by two jetties 1,000 feet long, between which there 
is a passageway with a width of 300 feet and a depth of 30 
feet. Behind this there is a turning basin, 1-3 mile long and 30 
leet deep. The depth of water at the municipal docks is 26 



164 

feet. Along the harbor frontage there are many factories, 
some of them of gigantic proportions. The Craig Shipbuilding 
Plant has the only shipyard and drydock on the Pacific Coast 
south of San Francisco. Big vessels, including several for the 
United States navy, have been constructed here. Other im- 
portant industrial establishments are the Long Beach Salt 
Works, one of the largest in the West, and the Southern Cal- 
ifornia Edison Company, an immense electrical concern. The 
Union Oil Company has also a large plant here, and ware- 
houses, lumber yards and factories make up an industrial sec- 
tion which assures a substantial trade for Long Beach in the 
future. The city also has a growing business section. 

From Long Beach can be reached the beach resorts de- 
scribed in the next side trip. 

( j ) Naples, Huntington Beach, Newport 

Along the coast to the southeast of Long Beach there is a 
succession of resorts which are rapidly coming into prom- 
inence. These may be reached from Los Angeles by the 
Southern Pacific (via Santa Ana) or the lines of the Pacific 
Electric Company. The Southern Pacific route runs from 
Santa Ana (described under route 10) to Newport Beach, 
whence a branch line extends through Huntington Beach, La 
Bolsa; Winterburg, Smeltzer and Stanton to West Anaheim. 
The beach resorts may be reached by two lines of the Pacific 
Electric system; one is by way of Watts, Dominguez Junction 
and Willowville; the other is through Santa Ana to Hunting- 
ton Beach, a central point in this coast region. 

ALAMITOS BEACH, adjoining Long Beach on the south- 
east, is situated on a high bluff overlooking the ocean. Ala- 
mitos has a colony of cottages clustered about the pavilion 
and pier; there is also a small bay here, above which are the 
Alamitos Heights. The San Gabriel River empties into the 
ocean at Alamitos Bay, marking the boundary at this point be- 
tween Los Angeles and Orange counties. Beyond Alamitos is 
NAPLES, a growing resort town. Like Venice, this is a place 
of waterways and canals, connecting the tov/n with Alamitos 
Bay. There is good boating at this place, with bathing and 
fishing as added attractions. All along this stretch of coast 
are splendid accommodations for picnickers. There is a good 
hotel at Naples and a pavilion patterned after the Palace of 
the Doges at Venice. The resort centers of Bay City, Anaheim 
Landing and Sunset Beach reach from Naples southward. 

Farther down the coast is HUNTINGTON BEACH, a little 
city which is reached by two lines of the Pacific Electric sys- 



165 

tern and the Southern Pacific Railroad. Jliis place, though 
quiet and unobtrusive, is one of the most popular recreation 
resorts of Southern California. Known as "The Encampment 
City," Huntington Beach is coming to the front as a place 
for annual assemblages. This is the location of many com- 
fortable homes, and the industrial prospects of the town are 
bright. Beyond Huntington Beach is NEWPORT, into which 
has been merged Balboa. This is an incorporated city of the 
sixth class, with most of its homes on a tongue of land which 
stretches between the ocean and Newport Bay, giving the re- 
sort a decided individuality. There is fine still-water bathing 
in the bay; visitors enjoy boating, hunting and fishing and 
an excellent dance pavilion. Across the bay lies Corona del 
Mar. Balboa, lying at the tip of the peninsula, is the terminus 
of this line of the Pacific Electric system. Newport Bay is the 
principal shipping point for Orange county. 

(k) Mount Lowe 

Alaskan scenery in orangeland draws the tourist to Mount 
Lowe and the region round about. The trip of 25 miles is 
made in two hours. (Take cars at Pacific Electric station, 
Sixth and Main streets; round trip, $2.50; on Saturdays, Sun- 
days and holidays, $2.) 

TTie first part of the journey is through the busy sections 
of Los Angeles. Follovv^ing the edge of Eastlake Park and 
skirting the Indian Village (where there is a large exhibit of 
Indian handicraft work), the car soon reaches Oneonta. To 
the east the San Gabriel Valley extends, rich with groves 
of yellow fruit — the "golden apples of the Hesperides." Cross- 
ing a part of the valley near Oak Knoll, the trolley car leaves 
the Hotel Raymond on the left and the Huntington mansion 
(with its treasures of art and its marvelously valuable library 
of rare books) on the right. The first regular stop is made 
at Pasadena (see section a). 

There is a moment's pause in front of the Hotel Maryland 
and then the traveler is carried onward past ALTADENA, 
with its glowing poppy fields, abloom after the winter's rains. 
Here the climbing of the steeper grades begins, the track 
winding among the lower shoulders of the mountains. The 
mountain wall opens and the way leads up Rubio Canyon, 
where the electric line stops. Rubio Canyon is a wildly pic- 
turesque gorge situated 2200 feet above sea level; it is a 
favorite picnic ground and has fine waterfalls. From here 
reaches an incline up which cars are drawn by a steel cable 



166 

to Echo Mountain 3,500 feet in altitude. The ascent of 1,300 
feet is made np a 62 per cent grade, tlie total distance trav- 
eled on the incline being 3,000 feet. This famous incline road 
is remarkable as an engineering feat; the ascent is rendered 
perfectly safe by inegnious devices; the steel cable is tested 
to 100 tons, while the weight of the car is but five tons. From 
the top of Echo Mountain the visitor enjoys an enchanting 
vision of the surrounding country. At Echo is located the 
Mouint Lowe Observatory, directed by Dr. E. L. 
Larkin. The main equatorial telescope has an object glass 
of 16 inches diameter. Here also is the great World's Fair 
searchlight, with a lens 5 feet in diameter; the strength of 
the searchlight is 3,000,000 candle-power and its light is 
visible 70' to 100 miles away. 

From Echo starts the electric road which winds to Alpine 
Tavern, a substantially built line with grades seldom ex- 
ceeding 7 per cent. The cars travel lightly around curves, 
above yawning chasms, along the brinks of precipices, 
over bridges spanning the canyons, and at every turn un- 
folding views of mountain scenery of wonderful beauty. At 
places the tracks are on scaffolding built out from the moun- 
tainside and overhanging space. On the trip up the mountain 
are miany natural objects of interest — Devil's Slide, Live Oak 
Grove, Millard's Canyon, Grand Canyon (one mile across and 
3,000 feet deep) and Granite Gate, at the tipper end ot the 
canyon and the portal to Ye Alpine Tavern. This noted hos- 
telry is situated at the upper terminus of the electric line at 
an elevation of 5,000 feet above sea level. It is built in the 
Swiss style of architecture and is surrounded by oaks and 
pines. 

From the Tavern trails lead in many directions. One of 
these is to Inspiration Point, 5,080 feet above the valley, from 
which an entrancing view is had. A favorite time to visit 
Inspiration Point is on a moonlight night, when the majesty 
of the mountains and the glittering lights of Pasadena, Los 
Angeles and half a hundred towns below make an earthly 
panorama only matched by the starry sky above. The trail 
up the mountain is a path starting from the Tavern and 
reaching to the summit, 1,100' feet above. This journey may 
be made by horse or burro and is perfectly safe, though the 
sensation of climbing the mountain in this manner is thrill- 
ing. The summit affords one of the finest views anywhere; 
the elevation above sea level is 6,100 feet. Mount Lowe was 
named in honor of Professor T'. S. C. Lowe, who built the 
scenic railway up its sides. 



167 



(1) Mount Wilson 



Another mountain trip from Los Angeles which is greatly 
enjoyed hy tourists is that to Mount Wilson, situated in the 
Sierra Madre to the southeast of Mount Lowe. The journey 
begins with a ride over the lines of the Pacific Electric Rail- 
way to AVilson Trail station, whence the summit of the moun- 
tain is reached by an excellent trail; the last stage of the 
trip is made by burro or afoot. 

From Los Angeles the Sierra Madre line of the Pacific 
Electric system runs through Covina Junction and Bairdstown 
to SIERRA VISTA, seven miles distant from the city. TTiis 
foothill town is a charming residence place; the route con- 
tinues from here through Oneonta Park and El Molino to 
SAN MARINO, the division point of lines for the foothills 
and the valley; it is the gateway into "'Orangeland." The 
foothill line continues through El Camino and El Rincon to 
SIERRA MADRE, at the foot of the mountains of the same 
name. Sierra Madre signifies in Spanish "Mother Mountains." 
The town is picturesquely situated and offers extended views 
over the plains and highlands. (Hotel Sierra Madre, A. P. $2 
up.) Half a mile beyond Sierra Madre is Mount Wilson Trail 
station, 16 miles from Los Angeles, the terminus of the elec- 
tric line. 

The trail leading up the mountain from the station is 
seven miles long and may be climbed by the experienced 
mountaineer afoot. For the average tourist, however, the 
trip by burro or horse is recommended; the animals can be 
hired for the journey at the foot of the trail. (Burros, $2 
round trip.) The trail is one of the finest mountain paths in 
California, as it has been made broad and well-beaten by the 
great number of tourists who have made the ascent. 

The scenery along the trail and the views from the heights 
down into the lowlands are delightful features of the climb. 
Canj^ons cut deep in the mountainside, gushing springs and 
waterfalls, cliffs and forested ridges, present ever-changing 
vistas to the traveler's eye. At the summit is Mount Wilson 
Hotel (A. P. $3 per day) and comfortable cottages. The 
crest of the mountain is a park-like tract covered with giant 
pines. The view from here is all-embracing; in one direction 
lie the valleys and the cities, a mile below, while in another 
the visitor looks across a tremendous gorge into the very 
heart of the range. The altitude at the summit is 6,000 feet. 



168 

At the summit of Mt. Wilson is the Carnegie Astronomical 
Laboratory. The observatory is designed especially for the 
scientific study of solar phenomena. It possesses the largest 
solar reflecting telescope in existence. The first observations 
were taken in December, 1.908, and since that time many im- 
portant astronomical facts and data have been collected. In 
1910 the observatory was the scene of a convention of distin- 
guished astronomers from all parts of the world. Besides 
the great telescope, there is also a 21-inch reflector and many 
other instruments particularly adapted for use in observing 
the sun. The dome of the building revolves upon a double 
track and with such smoothness that the motion is hardly 
noticeable; if necessary, a complete revolution can be ac- 
complished in six minutes. Another interesting fact is that 
the whole building can be made airtight, thus protecting the 
instruments from damaging changes in temperature. Many 
photographs of astronomical value have been taken and the 
museum of the observatory, containing these photographs, 
has recently been completed and is open to the public. 

There are many trails leading from the hotel throughout 
the mountains. A picturesque journey to the east is to the 
great Santa Anita Canyon; to the west is Eaton's Canyon. 
Among the points of interest about the summit are Echo Rock 
(5,760 feet), Observatory Point (5,580), Pulpit Rock, the 
Springs (5,570), the Casino (6,000), Prospect Point (5,580), 
Sunset Rest (5,380), Signal Point (5,870). A remarkable 
feature is Old Man Rock, l^^ miles from the hotel. Among 
the peaks reached by trail are Mt. Markham (5,900 feet), Mt. 
Harvard (5,533) and Mt. Alta (5,730). The canyon of the 
West Fork of the San Gabriel River is three miles distant. 



(m) Other Side Trips 



The country about Los Angeles is particularly interesting 
to tourists. The side trips already outlined are among the 
most prominent, but there are a number of others which are 
popular. Those which may be reached along the usual lines 
of through travel are described in later portions of this book; 
the descriptions maj' be found by consulting the index. Los 
Angeles has one of the most completely equipped electric rail- 
way systems of any city in the United States. The interurban 
lines reaching out in all directions afford unexcelled opportun- 
ities for pleasure jaunts. 



169 

Popular journeys in the region about the city not already 
described are to WTiittier, in a rich agricultural region, and 
farther along the same line to La Habra; to Lankershim and 
Van Nuys, whence the traveler may reach Fernando and the 
old Mission San Fernando (described later). A trip to the 
north which is popular is through Tropico and Glendale to 
La Ramada, an old Spanish restaurant at the foot of the 
Glendale Mountains. 

The manufacturing city of Torrance, to the southwest of 
Los Angeles, though but recently established, contains large 
manufacturing plants. Among the communities to the east 
in the orange region are many which delight the visitor. 
Monrovia, Duarte, San Dimas and Azusa are pleasant towns 
in this district. From Azusa are reached the many camping 
and pleasure resorts in the San Gabriel Canyon. At San 
Dimas there are picturesque waterfalls and the entire region 
is attractive. 

About Los Angeles there are numerous scenic boulevards 
which offer great attractions for autoists; all of the towns 
and most of the places of interest described can be reached 
over finely improved highways. 



1 0. Los Angeles to San Diego 

This route, which completes the journey from San Fran- 
cisco to the southern boundary of the state, is one of the 
most attractive From Los Angeles the line of the Santa Fe 
(Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway) runs southeast 
'through Hobart (3), Rivera (7) and Los Nietos (2) to La 
Mirada (6). After leaving La Mirada the traveler enters 
ORANGE COUNTY at Northam (1). As its name implies, 
this county has a great acreage set in oranges, though the 
agricultural products are varied. The county is small, hav- 
ing an area of 795 square miles. The population in 1910 was 
34,436; at the previous census it was 19,G96. 

From Northam the route extends to Fullerton (5), a city 
with a popu'aticn of 1,725 in 1910 (Cottage Hotel, A. P. $1.50 
up), and thence to ANAHEIM (3), with 2,628 people by the 
same census. (Commercial Hotel, $1.50.) The Anaheim 



170 

country was among the first developed in Southern California. 
From Anaheim the line runs across Santa Ana River to 
Orange (4). (Orange Villa, $1.50; Palmyra Hotel, $2.) Five 
miles east of here, on the road to El Toro, is the picturesque 
Orange County Park. From Orange the main route runs 
south to the city of Santa Ana (3). 

SANTA ANA, the county seat of Orange County, had a 
population of 8,429 in 1910 and is the largest place in this 
region. (The Rossmore, E. P. 75 cents). It is situated a short 
distance from Santa Ana River; to the north flows the San- 
tiago Creek. Santa Ana is a pleasant city of homes, parks 
and beautiful drives. Nearby are great sugar factories. The 
city is an important transportation center, being reached by 
the Santa Fe. Southern Pacific and two lines of the Pacific 
Electric system. 

From Santa Ana the route continues southeast through 
Aliso (3) Irvine (Myford) (6) to El Toro (5) and thence 
south to SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO (9), one of California's 
old mission towns. 

Mission San Juan Capistrano is situated in the town, to 
the west of the main road, on the sloping side of a low hill. 
Of the original great church building only the eastern end 
remains standing. This shows, however, the splendid archi- 
tecture of the original establishment, as the surrounding 
ruins testify to its extent. The images are ensconced in the 
niches of the church may still be seen in the chapel — one of 
San Juan Capistrano and the other of the Virgin Mary. The 
church is roofless, but it is planned to cover the building in 
a short time. The Landmarks Club of California has done 
much toward restoring San Juan Capistrano. The present 
chapel was originally made up of several living-rooms, from 
which the partitions were removed — the whole made into 
one apartment and the interior restored and decorated. The 
chapel is still in use. Here may be seen many relics of the 
once magnificent church — the old font, high candlesticks, pro- 
cessional cross, images, old paintings and other interesting 
remains of the mission days. Tlie kitchen is adorned with a 
quaint and artistic chimney, unique among the mission build- 
ings. The bell tower, long and low, is curious in architecture 
and the fine old bells still swing in their niches. The quad- 
rangle, about 200 feet square, is an interesting part of the 
ruins; many of the graceful cloistered arches are standing. 

The mission was founded in October, 1775, by Fathers 
Lasuen and Amurrio, but it was not until November 1, 1776, 



171 

ihat a permanent foundation for a mission was made here by 
Father Serra. The mission received its name from Saint 
John Capistran, a doughty champion of Christianity, who 
strove against the Turks at Belgrade. Capistrano became 
prosperous, though it was not remarkable for either its 
wealth or its size. The stone church whose ruins remain 
was begun in February, 1797, and dedicated September 7, 
1806. It was one of the most imposing of the mission build- 
ings, measuring 159 by 30 feet; it was partly destroyed by 
earthquake, December 8, 1812, killing 40 of the parishioners 
at their Sunday morning prayers. It was never rebuilt. 

From San Juan the route runs down the east bank of 
San Juan Creek to Serra (3), on the ocean. Two miles west 
of here are San Juan Capistrano Point and San Juan Rock. 
From Serra the line continues along the shore, a picturesque 
route. San Mateo Rocks are passed and soon after San Mateo 
Point, where the traveler enters San Diego County at San 
Onofre (9). 

SAN DIEGO COUNTY is one of die southernmost in Cal- 
ifornia. Tlie agricultural resources are particularly varied; 
the soil and climate will produce any food plant, tree or 
shrub cultivated by civilized man. Both citrus and deciduous 
fruits are grown on a large scale; the olive also thrives. 
Intensive farming is being followed in several parts of the 
county, causing the rural districts to settle up rapidly. San 
Diego county produces more honey than any other part of the 
United States and the bee-culture is one industry which al- 
ways attracts the attention of the tourist. The mineral wealth 
of the county is also considerable. Gems of every variety, 
excepting diamonds, emeralds and rubies, have been un- 
earthed here, including some found in no other part of the 
world, such as kunzite, discovered at Pala. The population 
of San Diego County in 1910 was 61,665, growing from 35,090 
in 1900. At the present time it is estimated at 90,000. The 
land area of the county is 4,221 square miles; the frontage 
on the Pacific Ocean is over 75 miles. 

From San Onofre the railroad runs through Las Flores 
(10) to Oceanside (71/2). OCEANSIDE, the trading and ship- 
ping center of the San Luis Rey Valley, is an important rail- 
road point, branch, lines running hence to Fallbrook and Es- 
condido. (Hotel Mira Mar, A. P. $2 up.) The population in 
1910 was 673. There is a fine bathing beach, one of the most 
extensive on the Pacific Coast; there is always good fishing 
here. Oceanside is also noted for its large commercial flower 



172 

gardens, especially those of carnations. Two of the old 
Franciscan missions (San Luis Rey and Pala) are most easily 
reached from Oceanside. San Luis Rey is nearby, and is 
described herewith; the side trip to Pala, though interesting, 
takes the traveler farther from the main line and is de- 
scribed separately (see section a under this route). 

Mission San Luis Rey, four miles northeast from Ocean- 
side, is situated on a slight eminence, with a commanding 
view over the surrounding region. Nearby flows the San 
Luis Rey River, often dry in the summer, but a torrent in 
winter. The mission was founded June 13, 1798, by Fathers 
Lasuen, Santiago and Peyri, its full title being San Luis Rey 
de Francia (St. Louis, King of France). Under the charge 
of Father Antonio Peyri it soon rose to the head of the mis- 
sions, leading all others in number of neophytes, wealth of 
land, cattle and produce, as well as in the size and grandeur 
of its buildings. In 1826 it had an enrollment of 2,869 neo- 
phytes. On the expulsion of the Franciscan order in 1829, 
Father Peyri returned to Spain. So attached to him were his 
Indian converts that he left them secretly by night. They 
learned with great grief next day of his departure, and many 
followed him to San Diego, to see him on board a ship just 
getting under way. T^vo Indian boys swam after the vessel, 
were taken on board and carried to Europe; for a time they 
studied at Rome, but their subsequent fate is unknown. The 
mission was the only one which progressed after seculariza- 
tion, but it, too, gradually declined. During the Mexican war 
it was used as a military post by the American troops. After 
years of decay, the mission has come again into the hands 
of the order which founded it, the Franciscans. It is now 
used as an ecclesiastical college. 

The mission was built in the form of a large square, with 
the church at one corner. The other buildings are in a state 
of ruin, but the chapel is well preserved. To its right are 
the remains of a long cloistered row of buildings; a few 
standing arches give an idea of the appearance of the great 
quadrangle a century ago. The architecture of the church is 
said to be truer to the Moorish style (which the padres evi- 
dently intended to copy) than that of any other mission. The 
bell tower is massive, yet graceful; the chapel has also a 
typical doorway and a finely arched facade. The church is 
built of adobe, faced with burnt brick and covered with plas- 
ter, much of which has scaled off. The church was completed 
in 1802. It is 189 by 30 feet in dimension. In the quadrangle 
is a gigantic pepper tree, said to be the parent of the many 



173 

beautiful trees of this kind in California. It was brought 
from South America by a sea captain and presented to the 
fathers for their garden. 

Branch lines of the railroad run from Oceanside to Fall- 
brook and Esco:ndido, described later (see Section b under 
this route). 

The main line continues south from Oceanside along the 
coast through Carlsbad (6) and Encinitas (9) to DEL MAR 
(5). This is a residence town with a fine bathing beach, a 
mile and a half long, and there is a commodious bath-house 
as well. A concrete pier reaches far out into the ocean, af- 
fording good fishing. Del Mar in Spanish signifies "by 
ihe sea." Here is situated the Stratford Inn, built upon 
Elizabethan lines of architecture (rates, A. P. $3 up). Soon 
after leaving Del Mar the Santa Fe line strikes inland, pass- 
ing through Sorrento (5), Linda Vista (-1). Selwyn (1), and 
ihence traversing Rose Canyon, reaches San Diego. 

SAN DIEGO, the nearest United States port to the Panama 
Canal, is a rapidly growing city of about 60,000 population. 
The 1910 census gave the city 39,578 people; in 1900 there 
were 17,7G'0 inhabitants. San Diego has become one of the 
manufacturing and industrial, centers of the west and is 
steadily progressing along these lines. Commercially the fu- 
ture of the city is assured by her magnificently land-locked 
harbor, now ranking as third in importance on the Pacific 
Coast. Six million dollars is being spent on harbor develop- 
ment. San Diego Bay is one of the best natural harbors in 
the world, and the improvements will make its position as a 
great port assured. The total area of the bay is 22 square 
miles; it is 16 miles long. The commercial prosperity of the 
city will be enhanced by the completion of the San Diego & 
Arizona Railroad, giving San Diego two transcontinental lines. 
The equable climate of the city is also a potent factor in 
its upbuilding. The fame of the cool summers and temperate 
winters brings thousands of visitors to San Diego every year, 
and her tourist hotels are noted. 

Historically San Diego is important, for the earliest settle- 
ment on the Pacific Coast of the United States was made here 
in 1769. The bay was discovered on September 28, 1542, by 
Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, who named it San Miguel. In 1602 
the bay was entered by Sebastian Vizcaino, who named it San 
Diego de Alcala (St. James of Alcala). No settlement was 
made by the Spaniards, however, until the arrival by 
sea of the first division of an expedition from Mexico, April 



San Die^o, 

Showing central location of 
Exposition site in City Park 7] 




Map of San Diego. 



175 

11, 1769. Gaspar de Portola and Father Junipero Serra, com- 
manding the expedition, arrived with the land division on 
June 30. The first permanent settlement (May 14, 1769), was 
en a hill in what is now known as "Old Town," where a 
stockade was built and cannon mounted. On July 16, 1769, 
Father Serra founded the mission of San Diego (see later), 
the first in California. 

Among the public buildings of note are the Free City Li- 
brary, high school, new polytechnic high school, state normal 
school and public bath-house. The new federal building, oc- 
cupying an entire block, is one of the most attractive archi- 
tecturally in the country, being built in the mission style. 
Among the hotels is the U. S. Grant Hotel, in the heart of 
the city, fronting the plaza. This is one of the largest con- 
crete fireproof buildings in the world; its cost was $2,000,000. 
Across the bay, in Coronado, is the Hotel del Coronado, an- 
other famous hostelry (described later). 

San Diego has 6,000 acres of park lands. The most beau- 
tiful is Balboa Park, the site of the Panama-California Expo- 
sition, to be held here in 1915, opening January 1st. The 
park comprises 1,400 acres of high land, intersected by deep 
canyons, sloping gently from broad mesas. From the higher 
elevations of Balboa Park a diversified panorama stretches 
away in every direction. Attractive features are the aviary 
and the electric fountain, the finest in the United States. 

The main buildings of the exposition are permanent, to 
be used by the municipality after 1915. This group will be 
known as the Mission City, of Spanish architecture. The 
exposition grounds proper embrace 400 acres, the main en- 
trance being at Laurel and Park avenues on the west side 
of Cabrillo Canyon. A bridge and causeway lead to the east 
side of the canj^on, where are the main buildings. In Spanish 
Canyon a dam will be built, creating a lagoon, upon which 
water craft of all kinds will ply. The section of concessions 
and privileges is to be known as The Rodeo. In all over 
$10,000,000 will be spent in perfecting the exposition. 

The scope of the Panama-California Exposition covers the 
interests of the Southwestern United States, Mexico, Central 
and South America. Special features are a world congress 
of Indian tribes, gathe^-ed from all parts of the two Amer- 
icas; exhibits from the United States reclamation, forestra- 
tion, conservation and immigration bureaus; archaeological 
material, the most complete ever gathered in America, cov- 
ering the entire American continent; ethnology, embracing 



176 

all the peoples that ever lived on the continent; the ancient 
ruins and relics; the beautiful, unique and striking things 
from all these countries, reciting the history of the aborigines 
of America back to the remotest times before the discovery 
and conquest of America. 

North of the city and within the corporate limits is Old 
Town, truly an "old town," as it was the earliest permanent 
settlement of Europeans on the Pacific Coast in our country. 
The place still retains its old world air and is a source of 
never-failing interest for the tourist. Some distance beyond 
are the ruins of the mission, situated on a slight eminence 
overlooking the San Diego River and Mission Valley. 

Mission San Diego de Alcala, the first to be founded in 
Alta California, was founded July 16, 1769, by Father Junipero 
Serra. In its early years the mission suffered from the at- 
tacks of hostile Indians, and in 1775 the chapel and other 
buildings were destroyed; Father Jayme and two others were 
murdered. Despite these setbacks the mission prospered; in 
1783 there were 740 neophytes under the care of the mis- 
sionaries. After secularization, the mission steadily declined 
and in 1846 it was sold by the Mexican authorities, but the 
United States government declared the sale invalid and the 
property reverted to the church. 

Little more than the facade of the church now remains — a 
plain adobe wall, terminating in a broad, high arch, present- 
ing a graceful outline against the sky. Behind the facade 
only two or three ruined walls remain. Tliis church was 
begun in 1804 and completed in 1813. It has been somewhat 
restored. Near by the old mission are the buildings of an 
Indian school; its little chapel is interesting. Here is stat- 
uary carved by the padres and their pupils 150 years ago. In 
the museum are many relics of old mission days, such as stir- 
rups, hollow iron cannon-balls, stone mortars and pestles, an 
old olive press used by the padres, and parts of the old beams 
of the church, brought by the Indians from the mountains 
forty miles away. 

Opposite the church is an olive orchard, planted by the 
missionaries over a century ago. In this orchard is an aban- 
doned well which had an underground passage connecting it 
with the mission, used by the padres when the mission was 
attacked. The road between the mission and the orchard 



177 

Is the beginning of El Camino Real, the famous highway 
which joined the 21 Franciscan establishments in California. 
There is an excellent view from the little shrine on the height 
above the mission. 

At Old Town are many points of interest to tourists. Here 
is the old Estudillo home, the house made famous by Helen 
Hunt Jackson as the place in which Ramona was married. 
The house contains a large collection of mission relics. In 
the garden is an old oven of rough construction. Near the 
mission are the two grand palms planted by the earliest Cal- 
ifornia settlers, and swinging from a beam outside an Old 
Town building are two bells from the San Diego mission. 
The site and ruins of the Presidio are also here. Many adobe 
houses built in the early days still remain in Old Town, with 
romantic and historic interest attached to them. It was here 
that the first American flag was raised over Southern Cal- 
ifornia, by General Fremont. An attractive ride is to Mis- 
sion Cliff Gardens (take No. 1 car north on Fifth street). 
From these pleasant gardens is obtained a wonderful scenic 
panorama. A large and interesting ostrich farm adjoins the 
gardens. 

On the opposite side of the bay from San Diego is CORO- 
NADO, with its famous hotel and tent city. Coronado is now 
reached by ferry from San Diego. Hotel del Coronado is 
noted as one of the largest all-the-year-round tourist hotels 
in the world, and is visited annually by thousands from all 
points of the globe. It is set in the center of a luxuriant 
semi-tropical garden. The hotel is built in the shape of a 
hollow square (rates, A. P. $4 up). Near it are the polo field, 
golf links and tennis courts, where many national and inter- 
national championship contests are held. Tlie tent city, 
stretching along the beach from the hotel for several blocks, 
is composed of tent-houses, built on platforms. Bathing is 
good the year round; fishing, yachting and other aquatic 
sports make life enjoyable for the dwellers in the tent city. 
There is also a large Casino. South of this point is the 
famous Silver Strand, a narrow strip of sandy beach connect- 
ing Coronado with the mainland. On North Island (really a 
peninsula), north of Coronado, is one of the largest and most 
perfect aviation fields in the world. Climatic conditions here 
are as nearly perfect as can be found on the continent for 
scientific navigation of the air and expert volators are en- 
thusiastic in praise of this location. It was here that Glenn 
H. Curtiss perfected his famous hydroplane and here that 



178 

many of the most famous aviators of the country have made 
notable flights. North Island is now largely utilized for avia- 
tion experimental work by the government. 

POINT LOMA is reached by launch from San Diego or 
by a wonderful boulevard leading around the upper end of 
the bay. The Point Loma Railroad operates a line to Ocean 
Beach (9 miles) on Point Loma (cars leave Third and D 
streets, San Diego). OCEAN BEACH lies immediately to the 
south of Pacific Beach and is beautifully situated. The bath- 
ing beach is excellent, and above it rise the cliffs of the pro- 
montory. 

Point Loma is a high peninsula ridge rising 400 feet above 
ocean and bay, less than a mile in width. On the extreme 
point is the government Military Reservation. North of the 
reservation is the town of Point Loma (Roseville) ; here is 
the famed colony of theosophists. Under the guidance of 
Madame Katherine Tingley (The Purple Mother), the Theo- 
sophical Brotherhood of America has established its head- 
quarters here and constructed a series of mysterious shrines 
and buildings. The colony is open to the public and is of 
much interest to tourists. The general architecture of the 
main buildings is after the style peculiar to ancient Greece, 
Egypt and Assyria. The Raja Yoga Academy is a graceful 
structure, topped with double domes, one of aqua marine 
and the other of heliotrope or purplish color. The hotel (of 
Moorish design), the Aryan Memorial Temple and the girls' 
dormitory are attractive buildings. The Temple of Music 
is surmounted by a vast glass dome, encircled by a balcony 
for sight-seeing. In the outdoor Greek Theater many old 
Hellenic plays have been given. The grounds of the Point 
Loma colony are filled with rare plants and trees. 

South of the Theosophical Institute, on the highest point 
of the ridge, in the Military Reservation, is the government 
wireless telegraph station, and beyond this the United States 
Military Cemetery. Here sleep the heroes of the "Benning- 
ton" disaster and others who died in the service of their 
country. Farther down the point stands historic Fort Rose- 
crans, the southernmost fortress on the Pacific 
Coast. Tourists are allowed to visit the fortifications. At the 
very end of Point Loma is the government light-house. 

There are many side trips from San Diego which are de- 
scribed separately in later pages. The interesting journey 
to La JoUa is outlined in Section c under this route; the trip 
into the interior of the county to El Cajon Valley and Foster 



179 

is described in Section d under this route; from Foster are 
reached Santa Ysabel and other interesting towns. Still an- 
other popular side trip is that to the south, reaching the Mex- 
ican border and Tia Juana; this is given in Section e under 
this route. 

The roads of San Diego County include 500 miles of excel- 
lent highway, well adapted for automobile travel. The roads 
center on the city of San Diego, with Escondido as the hub 
of the system in the north. There are many fine boulevards 
included, especially around San Diego. A much-travelled 
road is that into Imperial County, following to a great extent 
the route of the San Diego and Arizona Railway. There are 
several branch roads from this which lead to interesting coun- 
try. From Dulzura on the main road is reached the little 
town of Jamul, with a picturesque old Spanish ranch-house, 
now used as an inn. From Clover Flat, on the main route, a 
branch road leads northwest through La Posta to Buckman's 
Lithia Springs. 

The hotels of San Diego are numerous and commodious. 
Among the leading hotels are Hotel U. S. Grant, E. P. $1.50 
up; New Southern Hotel (Sixth and B streets); Hotel Cecil, 
E. P. $1 up; Hotel Brewster, E. P. $1 up; Hotel Imperial, E. P. 
$1 up; Hotel Lanier, E. P. $1 up; Hotel Martin, E. P. 75 cents 
up; Hotel Robinson, E. P. $1 up; Hotel Tioga, E. P. $1 up; 
New San Diego; New Palace. 



(a) Oceanside to Pala 



From Oceanside is reached, besides San Luis Rey, another 
old mission, that of Pala, situated 24 miles to the northeast 
at the headwaters of the San Luis Rey River, along which 
the road leads. Near the road, four miles from San Luis Rey 
mission, is the typical Spanish ranch of Guajoma, said to have 
been one of the places after which Helen Hunt Jackson drew 
the ranch in "Ramona." Mrs. Jackson spent several weeks 
at Guajoma. Passing the little town of Bonsall, the traveler 
traverses one of the most beautiful regions in CaMfornia, 
finally reaching the Indian settlement of PALA. The village 
is picturesquely situated in a valley, surrounded by mountains 
except to the west. The shape of the valley gave the name 
10 the town, Pala meaning "shovel." In the hills are found 
precious gems of various kinds, chiefly tourmaline and Kun- 
zite. 



180 

The Pala Mission (San Antonio de Pala) was founded as 
a branch establishment to San Luis Rey in 1816, by Father 
Peyri. Within two years a thousand converts were enrolled. 
The ruined buildings are long and low, constructed entirely 
of adobe and covered with red tiles. Originally the buildings 
formed a square, but all is obliterated except a part of the 
front. Here is the church, still in use by the Indians. Within 
is a statue of San Luis Rey, formerly at the mission dedicated 
to him. TTiis figure was carved by the Indians. About 30 
feet from the buildings, in the midst of the grave yard, or 
campo santo, is a bell-tower. This is unique among the mis- 
sions; there is no other campanile like it. It is constructed 
of stone and cement, overlaid with white plaster. There are 
two arched openings, one above the other, in which swing 
sweet-toned bells. The structure is surmounted by a cross, 
beside which grows a sturdy cactus, which took root there 
long ago. This campanile is Pala's most beautiful and dis- 
tinctive feature. 



{ b ) Oceanside to Fallbrook and Escondido 



From Oceanside the Fallbrook branch line runs northeast 
through Ysidora (5) and Deluz (8) to FALLBROOK (7). This 
town is situated in a rolling mesa country, producing grain, 
hay and olives, but also well adapted to fruit-growing. The 
popula,tion of the town is about 400. A picturesque region is 
the Temecula Canyon, northeast of Fallbrook; from Gavilan 
Mountain (1,800), to the north, just over the line in River- 
side County, an attractive view is obtained. 

Another branch road from Oceanside is the Escondido 
branch. This route extends eastward through Falda (6) to 
Vista (4) and thence southeast through San Marcos (7) and 
Richland (1) to ESCONDIDO (4), a city of 2,000' people, the 
chief shipping point of the beautiful and fertile Escondido 
Valley. (Escondido Hotel, $2.) TTie products of this region 
include hay, grain, cattle, hogs, oranges, lemons, raisins, wine, 
honey, butter and eggs. The area of the valley is 15,000 acres 
and the population is about 5,000. Escondido is the hub from 
which radiate four trunk roads of the 450-mile county highway 
system. At the little town of SAN PASQUAL, a few miles 
southeast of Escondido, are the picturesque ruins of the old 
Spanish chapel. Near San Pasqual was fought a battle, De- 
cember 6, 1846, between the Americans under General Stephen 



181 

Kearny, and the Mexican troops commanded by General Pico. 
The Americans lost 36 men killed and wounded, but retained 
possession of the field, their opponents retreating. 



( c ) San Diego to La Jolla 



The line of the Los Angeles and San Diego Beach Railway 
runs northward to La Jolla (14); the company operates 
gasoline motor cars and steam trains on this route, leaving 
Fourth and C streets, San Diego, TTie route runs through Old 
Town (3) and Morena (3) along False Bay (Mission Bay) to 
PACIFIC BEACH. Here is one of the finest bathing beaches 
on the coast. Pacific Beach is growing as a residential town, 
as well as a summer and winter resort. It is the home of the 
San Diego Army and Navy Academy. From Pacific Beach 
the line reaches LA JOLLA (5) (pronounced La Hoya). The 
town of 1,500 is a residence suburb of San Diego and is with- 
in the corporate limits. It is a noted seaside resort and the 
long curved beach is popular with bathers. Rocky shoals ex- 
tend for some distance into the ocean from the beach and 
among the tumbled rocks are many secluded nooks and 
coves. The cliffs north of the beaches are wonderfully carved 
by the sea and exquisitely colored. Many of the rocks have 
been worn by the waves into strange shapes, such as Cathe- 
dral Rock, Seal Point and Alligator Head, with its natural 
bridge and caverns. Goldfish Point is so named from the 
schools of golden perch which can be seen swimming down 
among the kelp-beds. The sea-mosses about here are partic- 
ularly beautiful; they retain their exquisite colorings even 
when dried, and many of them are collected by visitors. 
Emerald Cove is another attractive spot on La Jolla strand, 
with a natural bridge, three-portaled cavern and improvised 
stairway. The cliffs are penetrated by deep caverns, among 
them the famous caves of La Jolla. They are open toward 
the sea, to whose ceaseless action they owe their origin, but 
are entered by visitors through a tunnel some distance from 
the shore. There are ten principal caves, running back un- 
der the hills from four to six hundred feet. Some of these 
vast sandstone vaults are 400 feet broad and 200 feet high. 
Tlie Western Cave, entered by the tunnel, is the largest and 
most beautiful of the excavations. It has a dome-shaped roof 
and the walls are oddly sculptured by the waters. When the 
tide is up the whitecaps break far inside the cave with the 
roar as of heavy artillery. While the western cave is easily 
accessible, the other caves face deep water and can be visited 



182 

with safety only at extremely low tide and by people in bath- 
ing suits. This latter condition is not obligatory on visitors, 
but is suggested for their personal comfort. Only those who 
are able to swim should make this venture. The White Lady, 
formed by the bright light at the entrance and outlined on 
the walls of the cave, is found in the fourth cave from the 
Devil's Slide. An interesting story has been written about 
the phantom White Lady by Mrs. Rose Hartwick Thorpe. 
Copies of the book may be procured at La jolla. It is well 
illustrated and is a suitable souvenir of La Jolla. The Devil's 
Slide is a highway to unique Rocky Beach. Many of the fine 
abalone shells are found on the rocks here at low tide. For- 
merly visitors slid down the face of this cliff and then climbed 
up again as best they could, but now a stairway of about one 
hundred steps makes the visit to this beach one of greater 
convenience. 

Southeast of La Jolla is Soledad Mountain (822 feet), ris- 
ing almost from the waters edge. The panorama from the 
summit is unsurpassed. On a clear day can be seen the vari- 
ous mountain ranges of Southern California, the Channel 
Islands to the north and to the south San Diego and its har- 
bor, with the mountains of Mexico in the distance. 

At La Jolla is situated the Bishop's School, an Episcopal- 
ian boarding school for girls. This institution, established on 
the Scripp's Foundation is one of the finest of its kind in the 
west. Two miles northeast of La Jolla is the Scripps Institu- 
tion for Biological Research, where there is much to interest 
the tourist, including an aquarium. Valuable scientific work 
is done in the laboratory. Among the attractive buildings 
of La Jolla is the little public library, of mission architecture. 
Four miles from the town are the picturesque Torrey Pines, 
situated in a pretty little valley; these trees are said to be 
the only ones of the kind in America. The grove is well worth 
visiting and is easily accessible by road. 



( d ) San Diego to Foster 



The Foster line of the San Diego, Cuyamaca & Eastern 
Railway (gasoline motor cars and steam trains) runs north- 
east to Foster (25). The first important station is LEMON 
G'ROVB (9), nestling among the foothills of San Miguel 
and commanding a fine view of mountains, bay and ocean. 
.There are large lemon and orange groves in the surrounding 



183 

region. From Lemon Grove the route continues to LA MESA 
(2), a town of 1,000 population in the midst of a rich agricul- 
tural district, particularly adapted to intensive farming, and 
thence to El Cajon (5). Between La Mesa and El Cajon is 
Grossmont, an isolated peak rising several hundred feet 
above the plain. An automobile road of easy grade leads to 
the top of the mountain, whence a fine view is obtained; near 
the summit is Grossmont Inn. EL CAJON is situated in the 
pleasant valley of the same name. El Cajon (the chest) 
Valley embraces about 12,500' acres and has varied agricul- 
tural resources. Citrus and deciduous fruits, olives, grapes, 
raisins, hay and grain are shipped from here. Beyond the 
town of El Cajon, farther up the valley, is Lakeside (6). This 
is a popular all-the-year-round tourist resort and is noted for 
ihe beauty of its surroundings. From Lakeside an excellent 
road runs east to Alpine. This is known as a health resort; it 
is situated at an elevation of 1,850 feet. The a.gricultural re- 
sources of the tributary region are being developed; fruits 
of every kind grow" here, including the olive. Beyond Alpine 
is the town of Descanso. Three miles north of Lakeside is 
Foster, the present terminus of the railroad. 

From Foster stage lines (daily except Sunday) travel over 
excellent roads to several interior towns. One of these runs 
northeast through the little tovv'^ns of Ramona and Witch 
Creek (where there is a iiotel) to SANTA YSABEL (27). Here 
are the ruins of the old Franciscan mission of the same name. 

Mission Santa Ysabel was founded in 1822, as a branch 
chapel of San Luis Rey. There were originally a church and 
several other houses, but only one wall of the adobe chapel 
is now" standing. The Indians have built a bower of branches 
of trees and tules (rushes) upon the old site, and this now 
serves as a chapel for the devout natives. The old bells of 
the mission swing from a cross beam between two upright 
posts near the church; there is also a rude cross hard by. 
It is said that at one time the Indians came for thirty miles 
around to worship at Santa Ysabel. 

From Santa Ysabel a road continues northwest to MESA 
GRANDE (signifying in Spanish "grand plateau"). It is sit- 
uated in the heart of the Cuyamaca Mountains. The mesa 
land is rolling and dotted with live oaks and pine groves. The 
surrounding hills are covered with forests and indented with 
rugged canyons. There are many waterfalls and springs. 
The attractions of the scenery and the climate make Mesa 
Grande a popular mountain resort. The region is also rich 



184 

in agricultural possibilities. Northeast of Mesa Grande, on 
Warner's Ranch, are the Warner Hot Springs. These springs 
(seven in number) are situated at an elevation of 3,175 feet, 
the united flow having a temperature of 148 degrees. They 
were known to the Spaniards as Agua Caliente (Hot Water). 

The stage road leads from Santa Ysabel southeast to the 
town of JULIAN. At an elevation of 4,300 feet, this region 
is one of the best apple-growing regions in the state. Mining 
is a considerable industry here. The gold and silver mines 
have produced several million dollars, and from here also 
come the famous semi-precious gems — beryl, tourmaline, jade, 
sapphire, topaz, hyacinth, kunzite and garnet. Stock-raising 
and lumbering are also carried on extensively in the Julian 
region. South of Julian is Cuyamaca, a picturesque mountain 
town, situated on Lake Cuyamaca. From here the road con- 
tinues south to Descanso. 

(e) San Diego to Tia Juana 

The San Diego Southeastern Railway operates steam and 
electric lines between San Diego and its southern suburbs. 
From San Diego one of these runs to NATIONAL CITY (6). 
This city (population 2,000), is a beautiful residential district, 
situated on rolling hills facing the bay. To the south and 
east is a productive country, assuring the city's commercial 
prosperity and growth. There is a free pleasure wharf with 
a bath-house at National City. Yachting, boating and fishing 
add to the enjoyment of inhabitants and visitors. The new 
high school building at National City presents one of the 
finest examples of missionesque architecture in the state. 
(San Miguel Hotel, $1.50 up.) 

South of National City is Sweetwater Junction (2), from 
which a side line runs northeast to La Presa. From Sweet- 
water Junction the Sweetwater branch of the San Diego & 
Southeastern Railway runs up the inviting Sweetwater Val- 
ley through Bonita (2), and Sunnyside (2), to the Sweetwater 
Dam (2), a famous piece of engineering, and thence to La 
Presa (1), the terminus of the branch. 

The main line extends from Sweetwater Junction south 
to CHULA VISTA (1), which well justifies its name, signify- 
ing "pretty view." Back of this town is one of the richest 
and most highly developed sections of San Diego County. 
Citrus fruits, especially lemons and grape-fruit, are the 
principal productions of the region. From Chula Vista is 



185 

reached OTAY (3) in another rich citrus-growing district. 
Around Chula Vista and Ctay is one of the best lemon-grow- 
ing districts in the world. The annual income from citrus 
fruits approximates $1,000,000. South of Otay is Nestor (2) 
and from here the line runs southeast to TIA JUANA (5), on 
the Mexican border. Most of this quaint village lies in Mex- 
ico. It has been long famous for its bullfights, and there are 
now being operated here a race-track, bull ring and casino. 
There are a number of curio stores where quaint Mexican 
mementos, blankets, scrapes, drawn-work, fine cigars, beauti- 
ful onyx and other like objects may be purchased. The 
Mexican Custom House and the American Custom House are 
adjacent on the international boundary. Tia Juana was an 
important point in the recent Mexican revolution, and a bat- 
tle was fought there. The name of the town is itself inter- 
esting. Its Spanish significance is "Aunt Jane." Here, how- 
ever, Tia Juana is a misnomer, being a corruption of Tiwana, 
the Indian name, meaning "by the sea." North of Tia Juana 
is SAN YSIDRO (4), a prosperous colony of "Little Landers." 
The town has now about 500 inhabitants and is growing 
rapidly. 



1 1 . San Francisco to Sacramento 



Among the most popular of the routes taken by tourists 
in California is that from San Francisco to Sacramento, the 
capital of the state. Many choose to continue the journey 
farther up the Sacramento Valley. Those travellers who plan 
to visit Oregon after California should save this trip to the 
last, reaching Oregon by way of the Shasta Route, up the 
Sacramento Valley. This section of the book with 
its routes will describe this great region to the northern 
boundary of the state, together with side trips from the main 
line of travel. 

Prom San Francisco the tourist travels by ferry to Oak- 
land and there takes the lines of the Southern Pacific or the 
Western Pacific; the former line will be followed in the de- 
scription, because of the fact that it continues all the way up 
the valley, being known as the Shasta Route. The Western 
Pacific reaches Sacramento by way of Stockton. (Consult 
Table of Contents.) 



186 

Sacramento may also be reached with ease from 
San Francisco by a number of river boats, the most prominent 
of which is called the Southern Pacific Netherlands Route. 

From Oakland the Southern Pacific runs northward 
through Berkeley and Richmond (described in Route 2). Be- 
fore reaching Richmond it enters Contra Costa County. 

CONTRA: COSTA COUNTY is a prominent manu- 
facturing and shipping county of California, and is also 
rich agriculturally. Contra Costa County has 70 miles of 
water-front, nearly all on deep water, and this shore-line is 
dotted with factories. The water is fresh along most of the 
shore, owing to the great volume of the waters from the Sac- 
ramento and San Joaquin Rivers. Over three-fourths of the 
area is under cultivation, the balance being devoted to graz- 
ing. Grain raising is an important industry; the agricul- 
tural resources include also the growing of potatoes, beans, 
asparagus and alfalfa. The chief geographical feature of 
Contra Costa County is Mount Diablo (3,896 feet), situated 
almost in the exact middle of the county (see later). Contra 
Costa County derived its name from its position across the 
bay from San Francisco; in Spanish it signifies "opposite the 
coast." The area of the county is 714 square miles; the pop- 
ulation in 1910 was 31,674, increasing from 18,046 in 1900. 

From Richmond the Southern Pacific follows the bay-shore. 
San Pablo (2) is the oldest town in the county; it was once 
the home of Juan Alvarado, an early Mexican governor of 
California. The route from here is by way of Giant (2), 
the location of the Giant Powder Works, where high ex- 
X)losives are manufactured. Beyond, at Rodeo (2) are large 
oil refineries. Near Vallejo Junction (3) are the works of 
the Selby Smelting Company, the largest in the state. From 
Vallejo Junction the trip to Vallejo and Mare Island Navy 
Yard is made by ferry. (See Section c under this route.) 

The main route continues from Vallejo Junction through 
Crockett (1), whore there are large flouring mills and agri- 
cultural works; great sugar refineries are in operation at 
Crockett. From Crockett is reached PORT COSTA (2). The 
town itself lies back out of sight of the railroad, a picturesque 
little place among the hills. (Ferry Exchange House, $1.) 
Port Costa is the principal shipping point in the county north 
of Richmond. Ocean-going steamers and sailing vessels of 
the deepest draught lie alongside of its immense warehouses 
and load and discharge their cargoes. 

From Port Costa the Southern Pacific trains are carried 
eastward across Carquinez Straits by the ferry boat "Solano," 



187 

the largest train ferry in the world. Carquinez Straits at this 
point are over a mile broad. To the west is San Pablo Bay 
and to the east Siiisim Bay; Mount Diablo may be seen to 
the south. 

At Benieia the ferry boat ends its passage. The traveler 
is now in SOLANO COUNTY. This county has an area of 
822 square miles, with a population in 1910 of 27,559. The 
agricultural resources are varied. While a great acreage is 
devoted to grain, alfalfa, sugar beets and gardening, almost 
an equal area is devoted to citrus and deciduous fruits. 
Dairying is in a high state of excellence, with several certi- 
fied and many inspected dairies, and stockmen have herds 
of juire bloods. The county has many important factories. 

BENICIA had a population of 2,3G0 in 1910. It was the 
capital of the state in 1853-54. The old brick capitol build- 
ing is still standing and in use as a town hall. The United 
States Army barracks and arsenal are other points of in- 
terest. Benieia has large tanneries, factories of agricultural 
implements and other industrial establishments. (Palace 
Hotel, A. P. $2.25.) 

From Benieia the route runs east to Army Point (2) and 
thence northward across the Suisun marshes, rapidly being 
transformed into rich alfalfa fields and truck gardening lands, 
through Goodyear (5) Cyprus (4) and Teal (1) to SUISUN 
(5). There are a number of fruit packing houses here and 
nearby is a great cement plant employing 1,000 men. The 
population in 1910 was 631. Just north of Suisun is FAIR- 
FIELD, the county seat, the two forming practically one 
city. The population of Fairfield was 834 at the last census. 
Here is situated an imposing granite Solano County building. 
From Fairfield the line continues through the towns, Tolenas 
(4) and Cannon (3) to Elmira (4), whence a branch line runs 
to Vacaville. This is a rich farming country, developing rap- 
idly because of irrigation and subdivisions. From Elmira the 
main route extends through Batavia (5) to Dixon (3), 

DIXON is a rapidly growing town of 1200' people; in 1910 
it had 827. It is the center of a fertile agricultural region, 
with alfalfa, dairying and fruits and nuts taking the lead. 
The town has an attractive plaza and' a public park of 23 
acres. The high school and other school buildings, and the 
postoffice are handsome structures. There is a good public 
library. Near Dixon is a date palm which is declared to ma- 
ture fruit farther north than any known tree of its kind in 
the world. 

From Vallejo Junction, Carquinez Straits are crossed by 
ferry to South Vallejo and thence the railroad runs north to 



188 

Vallejo. VALLEJO is situated on Mare Island Straits, oppo- 
site the Mare Island Navy Yard, where many of its inhabit- 
ants are employed. The city has besides considerable manu- 
facturing and commercial importance. Founded by General 
Vallejo before American occupation of California, it received 
his name. In 1850 it was the capital of the state, but the seat 
of government was later changed to Benicia and finally to 
Sacramento. The population in 1910 was 11,340; in 1900 it 
was 7,965. 

Across from Vallejo, reached by ferry, is the Mare Island 
Navy Yard. Mare Island is long and narrow, about ten miles 
in circumference. Anchorage in the stream is good. Admiral 
Farragut established the Mare Island yard in 1854. Of par- 
ticular interest to tourists are the shops, dry dock and marine 
barracks. Usually a number of vessels of the Pacific Fleet, 
which may be visited, are anchored in the roadstead. The 
large naval hospital is on Mare Island. When going to the 
island, secure a pass at the gate office; all are welcome. No 
smoking is allowed on the island. Cameras may be taken by 
special permission. Mare Island and Bremerton. Washington, 
are the only navy yards on the Pacific Coast. The route from 
Vallejo runs northward through Flosden (3) into Napa 
County, reaching Napa Junction (3). From Napa Junction 
a branch railroad runs through Creston (4) across into So- 
lano County and to Cordelia (4), a prosperous farming town. 
From Cordelia the branch connects with the main line at 
Suisun. 

A large number of bay and river boats from San Fran- 
cisco run to Vallejo and river points. RIO VISTA, an import- 
ant town, is reached by these lines. In 1910 it had a popula- 
tion of 884. It is the center of the great reclamation plan 
being carried out by the state and federal governments for 
improving the lower reaches of the Sacramento river. 

After leaving Dixon the traveler passes through Tremont 
(5) across Putah Creek into Yolo County at Davis. YOLO 
COUNTY has an area of 1,014 square miles, holding one of 
the largest unbroken expanses of fertile land in the state. 
The population in 1910 was 13,926, the principal industries 
being farming, stockraising and fruit-growing. 

DAVIS, the first town in Yolo County, entered from the 
south, is situated about twelve miles west of Sacramento, 
surrounded by productive nut, fruit and grain lands. (Hotel 
Buena Vista, $1.50.) Here is situated the State Agricultural 
College Farm, affiliated with the University of California. 
The farm begins at the western town limits and embraces 780 



189 

fertile acres. Both instruction and experimentation in agri- 
cultural subjects are carried on. 

Davis is an important junction point, the main route con- 
tinuing east to Sacramento, while another line runs north 
to Woodland. This journey is an interesting side trip. Pass- 
ing through the farming towns of Merritt (2i^) and Mullen 
(21/^) the traveler reaches WOODLAND, the county seat of 
Yolo County. (Burns Hotel, A. P. $2 and $2.50; Julian Hotel, 
E. P. .50 cents up.) The population in 1910 was 3,187 and 
now is estimated at 5,000. The city is fast growing along 
commercial and industrial lines. There are some attractive 
public buildings, including the Hall of Records, City Hall, 
free public library, high school and other schools. From 
Woodland lines of the Southern Pacific diverge to the north- 
west and northeast, the former running up the west side of 
the Sacramento Valley to Red Bluff (described as a separate 
route in later pages; consult Table of Contents). TTie line 
to the northeast runs to Marysville, and is described as a 
side trip in section e under the present route. Woodland is 
also connected with Sacramento by electric lines. It is im- 
portant to note that those w^ho desire to visit the western 
side of the Sacramento Valley should leave the main line at 
Davis. 

From Davis the main route passes through Swingle (3i/4) 
and Webster (V2) to Washington (8). This town, also known 
as Broderick, is on the west bank of the Sacramento River, 
opposite the capital. It is a railroad town with industrial 
prospects which are being developed. Crossing the broad 
Sacramento River, the city of Sacramento is reached. 

SACRAMENTO, the CAPITAL of California, has a popula- 
tion of over 54,000. It is the la.rgest inlaaid city of the state 
and its growth in recent years has been rapid. It is one of 
the principal manufacturing cities and the shipping point 
for the largest deciduous fruit region in the world. At Sac-> 
ramento are the general shops of the Southern Pacific rail- 
road Company and the Western Pacific Railroad Company's 
headquarters are here; electric lines and river steamship 
routes run from the city in all directions. Sacramento is 
one of the great transportation centers of the state. The 
city is situated on the Sacramento River at an altitude of 
23 feet, just south of the point where the American River 
joins the larger stream. The Sacramento River is one of the 
greatest waterways of the United States. It now ranks fourth 
among the rivers of the country in tonnage carried, and the 
government is to spend millions in improving it. The river 
has its source on the southwest slope of Mount Shasta and 



.90 




Centra! part of Sacramento. 



flows south 350 miles to Siilsim Bay; it is navigable to Red 
Bluff, 262 miles. At one time large ocean-going steamers 
went up to Sacramento, but erosion of soil from farming and 
mining filled the river channel with silt. The Sacramento 
Valley is one of the most fertile regions of the world. Three 
million acres of almost level land and several millions of foot- 
hill land are adapted to agriculture; in all there are 12,000,000 
acres embraced in the valley. It is approximately 160 miles 
long and varies in width up to 60 miles at its lower end. 

The Capitol at Sacramento is one of the most imposing 
and costly structures in the United States and is worthy of 
the great state of which it is the seat of government. It 
stands in a magnificent park of 35 acres near the center of 
the city, bounded by L, N, Tenth and Fifteenth streets. The 
Capitol stands on an embankment ten feet higher than the 
level of the surrounding streets. Begun in 1860, the corner- 
stone of the Capitol was laid May 15, 1861. It was completed 
in 1874, but since then many improvements have been made. 
The total cost amounts to over $3,000,000; competent authori- 
ties have declared that the structure could not be duplicated 
for $5,000,000. 



191 

The main entrance is on the west; there are two smaller 
entrances on the east. The corridor at the entrance is of 
white Utah sandstone, trimmed with California marble base 
and onyx panels. In the basement are mainly storage and 
record rooms. The corridors of the first floor are beautifully 
tiled; a colored representation of the great seal of the state 
in the floor, six feet across, ornaments the entra,nce to each 
corridor. In the center of the rotunda stands a heroic statue, 
Columbus before Isabella, presented to the state in 1883, by 
Darius Ogden Mills. It is the work of La,rkin G. Mead, the 
eminent American sculptor, and was executed in Florence, 
Italy, between the years 1S68 and 1874. The purchase price 
was $30,00'0. The group has been universally admired for 
its grace and expression. 

On the first floor of the Capitol are the offices of the Gov- 
ernor and other executive officers, and the law library. All 
the offices, especially those of the Governor, are artistically 
decorated and furnished. On the first floor is also the court 
room of the Second District Court of Appeal. On the second 
floor are the Senate and Assembly Chambers, besides execu- 
tive offices. The Legislative Cinambers are situated at either 
wing of the Capitol. 

The State Library, one of the largest in the country, is 
situated in a semi-circular wing, entered from the second 
floor. There are 162,080 volumes here, besides 14,658 vol- 
umes in traveling libraries and 2,609 embossed books for the 
use of the blind. The California Historical Department is of 
peculiar interest to students of the state's history. 

TTie Capitol Dome may be ascended from the fourth floor 
by means of the winding iron stairway. Stops may be made 
at the first and second landings, Avhere exterior protected 
platforms allow the visitor to walk around outside the rotunda, 
the landscape being attractive. To obtain the most satis- 
factory result the summit of the dome should be visited. 

From there a superb panoramic view of the city and the 
Sacramento Valley is gained, reaching from far-off Mount 
Shasta, on the north, to Mount Diablo on the south. The 
course of the Sacramento and American rivers may be 
traced for miles. 

The Capitol Park, ten blocks in extent, is thickly planted 
with trees and shrubs of over 120 varieties, coming from all 
regions of the world. To the east of the Capitol is half an 
acre set apart as a memorial grove; here are trees trans- 
planted from the prominent battlefields of the Civil War and 



192 

other peaces noted in American history. The State Printing 
Office is situated at the eastern end of the park facing Fif- 
teenth street. On the grounds also stands the State Insec- 
tory, where investigations have been made which have at- 
tracted the attention of entomologists the world over; the 
museum here is of interest alike to the specialist and the 
farmer. 

The city of Sacramento has many fine public buildings. 
The Sacramento County Courthouse occupies the square 
bounded by H, I, Sixth and Seventh streets. On this site 
stood until 1910 the building which served as State Capitol 
from 1855 to 1869. The cost of the magnificent new county 
building was $750,000. A short distance to the east, facing I 
street, is the city public library, containing 52,900' volumes. 
The new City Hall is situated on Ninth and I streets; the 
cost was $300,000. On the corner of Sixteenth and H streets 
is the Governor's Mansion, located in handsome grounds. 
The Postoffice building is at Seventh and K streets. The 
High School is one of the finest in California; the cost of the 
buiMing was $250,000. 

Tlie Crocker Art Gallery (Third and O streets), contains 
one of the finest art collections in the West. The exhibition 
numbers 700 paintings, chiefly by foreign artists, valued at 
more than $750,000. He'e are original paintings by Van 
Dyck, Murillo, Guido Reni, Salvator Rosa, Coreggio Tintor- 
retto, Leonard da Vinci, Luini and Sir Peter Lely, as well as 
canvases by Piloty, Kaulbach, Thomas Hill and other modern 
artists of note. There are also many valuable folios of orig- 
inal drawings from old and modern masters. This collection 
was presented to the city and the California Museum Asso- 
ciation in 1884 by Mrs. Margaret E. Crocker. TTie gallery is 
open every day. There is exhibted here also a large and 
valuable cabinet collection of minerals, the property of the 
state of California. 

One of the historic landmarks of the state is old Sutter's 
Fort, now the center of a public park, bounded by Twenty- 
sixth, Twenty-eighth, K and L streets. The building and en- 
closure, situated on a slight eminence, have been restored; 
much of the building is the original structure. The landmark 
was purchased by the order of the Native Sons of the Golden 
West and presented to the state. There is an interesting 
museum of pioneer relics in the main structure; within the 
ivalls nearby are a "prairie schooner" and an old stage- 
coach, once driven by the famous "Hank" Monk. TTie fort 
was founded in 1840 by General John A. Sutter, a native of 
Switzerland, who received a large grant in this region from 



193 

the Mexican government. He maintained a permanent gar- 
rison here and had twelve guns mounted on the walls. The 
fort was capable of holding 1,000 men; in the early days it 
was a notable trading post. It was one of the places seized 
by the Bear Flag revolutionists in 1846 and the Stars and 
Stripes floated over its walls soon after the historic flag- 
raising at Monterey in July of the same year. During the 
"days of gold" the fort continued a center of trade and ac- 
tivity in the hustling city that sprang up. 

Besides Capital Park, there are a large number of other 
beautiful public parks in Sacramento. The plazas were gen- 
erously given to the city in the early days by General Sutter. 
The old Plaza (Tenth and J) is in the business section of the 
city. Fremont Park, Marshall Park and Winn Park are other 
attractive squares. South Side Park, embracing 33 acres, is 
bounded by T, X, Sixth and Eighth streets. IVIcKinley Park, 
in the northeastern portion of the city, is the largest of all, 
containing 800 acres of oak-studded recreation ground. On 
the eastern outskirts of the city is the State Agricultural 
Park (85 acres) where the State Fair is held every year. 
Besides the race-track, stables and buildings for the accom- 
modation of stock, there are on the grounds a permanent 
Agricultural Pavilion and Manufacturers' Pavilion. The fair 
has been held annually since 1861 and is attended by people 
from all parts of the state. Oak Park, in the southeastern 
section of the city, is a popular amusement place. The 
Baseball Park (Pacific Coast 'League, Class AA), is at 
Eleventh and Y streets. Another attraction in Sacramento is 
an ostrich farm (Tenth and W), with from 50 to 100 birds 
always on exhibition. 

There are many blocks of parked boulevards in the city 
and the residence sections are adorned with a luxuriant 
growth of trees and plants. Popular drives from the city in- 
clude the Riverside Drive southward along the Sacramento 
and the drive northeast to Folsom, in the foothills. This is 
one of the finest stretches of level road in California. 

The hotels of Sacramento are the Capital Hotel, E. P. $1 
up; Hotel Land, A. P. $2 up; Hotel Sacramento, E. P. $1.50 
up; Golden Eagle Hotel, E. P. $1 up; Western Hotel, A. P. 
$1.25 up; Hotel Argus, E. P. $1 up. 

Sacramento is the railway center of interior California, 
thus giving unexcelled opportunities to tourists for pleas- 
ant side trips. The Southern Pacific lines run from the city 
in five directions. The line leading into the Sierras to the 
northeast is the Ogden Route, by which is reached Lake 



194 

Tahoe and other attractive mountain scenery; it is an excel- 
lent route for those leaving for the Bast and is described 
later in the divison, Sacramento to Truckee and Nevada Line. 
A pleasant .iourney to the east is made by a Southern Pacific 
branch reaching Placerville; this part of the state is covered 
in the route, Sacramento to Placerville (consult Table of 
Contents). The line running southwest from Sacramento has 
already been described, while the Shasta Route (as far as 
Roseville following the line of the Ogden Route) will be out- 
lined in the next main division of the book, Sacramento to 
Marysville. The line of the Southern Pacific extending south 
to Stockton is described later in the route, Stockton to Sac- 
ramento. The Western Pacific line, in the same region and 
from Sacramento northeast through the Feather River Can- 
yon, is also detailed in following pages. 

There are a number of electric lines converging at Sacra- 
mento. The Central California Traction Company's line runs 
south to Stockton through the rich valley country. The 
Northern Electric route extends east to Woodland (18 miles) 
and north to Marysville (42), Oroville (77) and Chico (91). 
The Vallejo and Northern is another electric line which runs 
southward toward the bay region. 

The Sacramento Southern branch of the Southern Pacific 
runs along the Sacramento River through Del Rio (5), Free- 
port (4) and Hood (7) to Walnut Grove (9). This line 
reaches rich fruit-growing and dairying territory. Beyond, 
along the river, is the Delta region, a jig-saw puzzle of islands 
stretching for miles, isolated by the river and sloughs. Grand 
Island, the largest, has 18,000 acres. Three lines of steamers 
run regularly from Sacramento to San Francisco, passing 
through this picturesque region. These are the Southern 
Pacific Netherlands Route, Lauritzen Company and Califor- 
nia Transportation Company. 

( a ) Port Costa to Stockton 

After leaving Port Costa the line of the Southern Pacific 
runs to MARTINEZ (4), the county seat, situated in the beau- 
tiful Alhambra Valley. (Martinez Hotel, A. P. $2 up.) At 
Martinez are a number of factories, including chemical works, 
oil works and the plant of the Mountain Copper Company. 
The population of Martinez in 1910 was 2,115. The county 
court house is one of the most attractive and modern in the 
state. Near Martinez are the Alhambra Mineral Springs, 
whose waters are favorably known as a table beverage. 
From Martinez or Port Costa may be I'eached the Mount 



195 

Diablo country by way of the San Ramon branch of the 
Southern Pacific, described in the next section, Martinez to 
Livermore. 

Prom Martinez the route extends through Avon (3), 
(whence the branch runs south to San Ramon) to Bay Point 
(3), where there is situated one of the largest lumber yards 
in the United States. From here the route extends through 
McAvoy (3) to PITTSBURG (4). This thriving industrial 
town of about 2,500 people was formerly known as Black 
Diamond, taking its name from the coal once shipped 
from the mines six miles in the interior. Pittsburg is now 
the center of a great fishing industry, about 250 boats putting 
out from here. Many of the inhabitants work in the salmon 
canning and packing factories. 

From Pittsburg the traveler passes through Los Medanos 
(3) to ANTTOCH (2), on the San JoaQuin. (Santa Fe Hotel, 
$1.50; Arlington, $1.50.) This is the center for a large and 
rich section, producing fruit and grain, hay and dairy prod- 
ucts. The delta islands in the vicinity of Antioch are noted 
for their fertility. Antioch has a high school and public 
library. In 1910 the population was 1,124. An electric line 
(Oakland and Antioch Railway) runs from here southwest 
across Contra Costa county to Oakland. (See Route 2 a.) 

The Southern Pacific line continues from Antioch through 
Brentwood (9) and Byron (5) to BYRON SPRINGS. These 
springs are famous for the curative properties of their waters 
and were used by the Indians and early Spanish settlers 
long before the coming of the Americans. The imposing 
hotel, of Moorish architecture, is situated in a beautiful park. 
In the wild hills six miles back of the springs, the notorious 
Joaquin Murieta and his band once held sway. These pin- 
nacles are known as Las Piedras del Muerta (The Rocks of 
Death) and Murieta's cave is among them. Tradition says 
that the bandits buried a great treasure in this vicinitj, but 
rieekers for the gold thus far have been disappointed. 

From Byron Springs the line crosses into San Joaquin 
County, reaching Bethany (8). Beyond here is Tracy (5), 
the junction point where the traveler turns northeast to 
Stockton, 20 miles distant. The region about Stockton is de- 
scribed in the route, San Francisco to Stockton, and in 
others from Stockton southward (consult Table of Contents). 

(b) Martinez to Livermore 

From Port Costa the San Ramon branch of the Southern 
Pacific runs through Martinez (4) to Avon (4). From 
here is reached the town of Concord (4). CONCORD, 



196 

a town of 1,000 inhabitants, is located near the pretty Ignacio 
Valley and adjacent to Mount Diablo. It is a shipping point 
for the surrounding agricultural region. A spot well worth 
visitng here is the plaza, in the center of the town, which con- 
tains many beautiful eucalyptus trees. (Concord Inn, A. 
P. $2.) 

A broad fourteen-mile boulevard is being built from Con- 
cord to the top of Mount Diablo, with less than a six per cent 
grade. From the summit of the mountain (3,896 feet) a mag- 
nificent view is had; on a clear day Mount Shasta, 200 miles 
to the north, can be seen, and the snow-capped Sierras to the 
east. The peak received its Spanish name, El Monte del 
Diablo, "Devil's Mountain," from the ancient legend of the 
Indians that a demon occupied its recesses who caused earth- 
quakes and landslides in the vicinity. Mount Diablo is 30 
miles from San Francisco. 

The San Ramon branch continues from Concord through 
Hookston (3) and Septimus (1) to Walnut Creek (2), at the 
loot of the long and narrow San Ramon Valley. T'raversing 
this beautiful dale, the tralever passes the pretty towns of 
Alamo (5) and Danville (2), reaching SAN RAMON (3). 
This is a charming village situated at the head of the valley 
of the same name. A commanding view is obtained from 
here over the fertile Livermore Valley, lying to the south in 
Alameda County. From San Ramon the line continues 
through Dougherty (6) and Radium (4) to Livermore (5), on 
the main route between San B'rancisco, Oakland and Stock- 
ton. 

The Mount Diablo region is being developed by the ex- 
tensions of the Oakland, Antioch and Eastern Railway, 
which is pressing construction work and running electric 
trains into and out of Contra Costa County, all connecting 
on the west with Key Route ferries for San Francisco. The 
point of departure in Oakland going east, (Fortieth street 
and Shaffer avenue) is 7.9 miles from San Francisco. From 
that station the run is made to San Pablo Bay. The stations 
and distances are here given: Leaving Fortieth and Shatter 
the succeeding stations are College and Shatter, (l^/^). Rock 
Ridge (1/2), Thornhill (2.3), Cape Horn (1), Havens (%), 
Eastport (1), Canyon (1.3), Pinehurst (1), Valle Vista (1), 
Moraga (1.1), Burton (2.3), Lafayette (2.9), Sanarap (1.9), 
Walnut Creek (11/2), Septimus (2.2), Hookston {V2), Meinert 
Junction (1.1). From Meinert Junction there is a branch 
running to Gavin (2), and Walwood (1). Those who wish to 
ascend Mount Diablo get off at Walwood. Resuming descrip- 



197 

tion of the main line, after leaving Meinert Junction the 
next station is Concord (2i/^); next come Ohmer (2i/^), Bay 
Point (3.3). The road will be completed to Sacramento in a 
short time. Connections are made at Bay Point with Santa 
Fe and Southern Pacific trains to and from all points. The 
Oakland, Antioch and Eastern Railway is standard gauge, 
allowing the use of Pullman cars and all regulation equip- 
ment. An observation car is run for tlie accommodation of 
excursionists. There are excursions over this road from San 
Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley and Alameda to Mount Diablo 
every Saturday and Sunday and on holidays. From Walwood 
the climb to the top of the mountain is easy for pedestrians, 
a trail having been cut for their accommodation; the nev/ 
automobile boulevard is utilized part of the way. 

(c) Vallejo and Mare Island 

From Vallejo Junction a ferry crosses Carquinez Straits 
to South Vallejo, whence the railroad runs north to Vallejo. 
The city can be reached direct from San Francisco by the 
Monticello Steamship Company's line. 

VALLEJO, already mentioned, again comes to the atten- 
tion of the tourist who makes this side trip. (Bernard Hotel, 
A. P. $2.00, $2.50 up; St. Vincent's Hotel, A. P. and E. P.) A 
good description of this part of the state will be found on 
page 188 of this book. 

The visit to the Mare Island Navy Yard, reached by ferry 
from Vallejo, will be enjoyed by visitors. 

Back of Vallejo rises Sulphur Springs Mountain (966 feet), 
from which an excellent view over the picturesque landscape 
may be had. On its western side, three miles from the city, 
are the Vallejo V/hite Sulphur Springs, which have a mild, 
tepid sulphur water. Southeast of Vallejo is a large govern- 
ment reservation. 

From Vallejo can be reached the Napa Valley, by way of 
the Southern Pacific line running through Flosden (3) to 
Napa Junction (3). From Napa Junction lines run to Napa 
and Santa Rosa, described in other sections of this book 
(consult index). 



(d) Elmira to Rumsey 



From Elmira the Rumsey branch of the Southern Pacific 
runs northwest to Vacaville (4). This town (population 
1,200) is situated in the little Vaca Valley, one of the noted 
early fruit sections of the state. There are extensive vege- 
table fields in this region. From here is reached Winters (12). 



198 

WINTERS, situated on Putah Creek, at the base of pic- 
turesque foothills, is the second town of Yolo County. It is 
a large shipping center for fruit, vegetables and corn. Win- 
ters has fine public buildings. This city, which was founded 
in 1875, had a population of 910 in 1910 and is growing 
steadily. 

Prom Winters the route extends through Ely (4i/^) and 
Citrona (3) to Madison (3%). This town is 12 miles due 
west from Woodland, with which it is connected by road. 
From Madison the town of Esparto (3) is reached through a 
rich orchard and grain territory and beyond lies Capay (2i/^), 
a center for stock-raising and agricultural district. At this 
point the fertile and picturesque Capay Valley, opens into the 
broad Sacramento Valley. 

From Capay the line traverses the valley of this name, 
along Cache Creek, through the farming towns of Cadanassa 
(4), Tancred (4), Surrey (21/^) and Amaranth (1) to Guinda 
(%). Guinda is in a rich fruit and alfalfa territory. Beyond 
Guinda lies RUMSEY {'SV2), at the head of the Capay Valley 
and the end of the railroad. The surroundings are very pic- 
turesque. Cache Creek, the outlet of Clear Lake, emerges 
from the narrow gorge, some distance above Rumsey. 

(e) Woodland to Marysville 

From AVoodland a line of the Southern Pacific runs north- 
east through the towns of Pent (3) and Curtis (2) to 
KNIGHT'S LANDING (4), on the Sacramento River. This 
is one of the oldest towns in the Sacramento Valley and was 
founded some years before California became a state. The 
town is the center of several large reclamation projects. 

From Knight's Landing the route crosses the Sacramento 
river into SUTTER COUNTY. The area of this county is 608 
square miles; the population in 1910 was 6,328. Situated in 
the center of the Sacramento Valley, the county is fertile and 
well watered. The county was named for General John A. 
Sutter, who received a Mexican grant in 1839 along the 
Feather River. Tlie chief industry is agriculture. Sutter 
County also has many vineyards, being the home of the 
famous Thompson seedless grape, now grown extensively in 
other parts of the state. Along the Sacramento river there 
are a number of prosperous farming and dairying centers, 
reached by excellent roads, the principal towns being Merid- 
ian, Verona, Kirksville, Cranmore and Kent. 

From the river the main route runs northeast through 
Vernon to Chandler, 11 miles from Knight's Landing. Thence 



199 

it continues to Marcus (21^^) and Tudor (4), in a grain and 
dairy region. Beyond Tudor, on the Feather River, is the 
old home of General Sutter, an interesting landmark. The 
railroad from Tudor continues through Oswald (4i/^) to Yuba 
City (41/2). 

YUBA CITY, on the Feather River, is the county seat of 
Sutter County. The population in 1910 was 1,160. There is 
a handsome hall of records, situated in a pretty park. From 
this modern little city the traveler crosses the Feather River 
into Marysville. 

From Yuba City a road leads westward to Meridian, on the 
Sacramento River, a route which is soon to be followed by 
an electric railroad line. On this route is Sutter City, with a 
population of 1,000, This point, situated at the base of the 
Sutter Buttes, is an excellent place from which to ascend 
these well-known eminences. They are sometimes known as 
the Marysville Buttes. These wonderful formations are the 
only elevations of note which break the surface of the great 
central valley of California. They are a group of isolated 
peaks, of remote volcanic origin, much eroded by the ele- 
ments. The main buttes, from the north to south, are North 
Butte, East Butte, South Butte and West Butte. They were 
seen and given the name "buttes'' by the French-Canadian 
voyager, Michael La Frambeau, who traversed this country 
in 1829 as an agent of the Hudson Bay Company. The view 
of the valley from the summit of this miniature mountain 
range, 2,000 feet above the sea-level, is at once unique and 
beautiful. From Sutter City the road continues to Meridian, 
a prosperous town of 500 population in a rich agricultural 
and dairy region. Northeast of here is the town of West 
Butte, reached by road from Sutter City. 

Marysville, reached from Yuba City, is described in the 
following route. 



1 2. Sacramento to Marysville 

This route is a continuation of the trip up the Sacramento 
Valley by way of the Southern Pacific. Marysville may also 
be reached from Sacramento by the Western Pacific Railroad, 
whose route is described later (consult Table of Contents) 
and by the line of the Northern Electric Railway, which fol- 
lows practically the same route as the Western Pacific. 
From Sacramento the main line of the Southern Pacific runs 



200 

northeast across the American River through Elvas (3), Ben- 
ali (3) and Antelope (8) into Placer County, reaching Rose- 
ville (4). Placer County and the attractive town of Roseville 
are described later, as this part of the Shasta Route is iden- 
tical with the Ogden Route, leading eastward from Sacra- 
mento to the Nevada line (consult Table of Contents). T'he 
Shasta, Route diverges from Roseville, passing through Lin- 
coln (8) to Sheridan (3), in a prosperous farming locality. 

From Sheridan the main Southern Pacific line crosses 
the Bear River (old Rio Oso) into Yuba County, reaching 
Wheatland (SVs). YUBA COUNTY has an area of 639 square 
miles, extending from, the Feather River into the mountain 
region. The population in 1910 was 10,042. In the fertile val- 
ley lands farming, dairying and fruit-growing are carried on 
extensively; in the mountains the industries are mining, 
lumbering and stock-raising. The county ranks fourth in 
gold production. 

WHEATLAND, the first town entered after crossing Bear 
River, is the second town of the county, with a population of 
481 in 1910. It is the center of a rich farming region. The 
largest hop fields in the world are near Wheatland, along the 
bottomx land of Bear River. Four thousand people are em- 
ployed here in the picking season. A road from Wheatland 
leads northeast through the small towns of Erie and Waldo 
into Nevada County. From Wheatland the railroad runs 
through Ostrom (6) to Marysville (6), 

MARYSVILLE, situated at the confluence of the Yuba and 
Feather Rivers, is one of California's historic cities. In the 
early days it became a distributing point for the gold mines. 
At that time large steamers could come up to MarysviUe with 
ease, but now it is difficult, owing to the shoaling of the riv- 
ers, caused by deposits of silt. 

In the fall of 1851, Joaquin Murieta, the notorious bandit 
chief, terrorized the region about MarysviUe by his depreda- 
tions. Among the residents of the city in the early days was 
William Walker, the noted filibusterer, who practiced law in 
MarysviUe for some time. His was a remarkable career. He 
led an expedition into Sonora, Mexico, in 1853; invaded Nic- 
aragua and became president of that country in 1856-7 and 
was shot in 1860 while trying to incite a revolution in Hon- 
duras. 

MarysviUe is a municipality of growing commercial and 
industrial interests. The population in 1910 was 5,430; in 1900 
it was 3,497. The city is beautified by nine parks. Ellis 
Lake, covering 60 acres, is an attraction of considerable in- 



201 

lerest. The public library (costiug $75,000) has over 8,000 
volumes. The levees surrounding the city protect it from 
freshets of the Yuba and Feather Rivers. These are con- 
ceded to be cimong the finest and strongest in America. Com- 
menced in 1875, the cost of building them was $1,000,000. 
There has never been a break. The crown of the levee is 
from 8 to 75 feet wide. 

The city is well supplied with railroad facilities. Besides 
the Southern Pacific, the main line of the Western Pacific 
reaches Marysville and runs thence to Oroville and the beau- 
tiful Feather River Canyon. This route is detailed in an- 
other portion of this work. The Northern Electric line 
reaches Marysville from Sacramento and runs north to Chico 
and Oroville. (Western Hotel, E. P. $1 up; United States Ho- 
tel, A. P. $1.25 to $2.50; E. P. 50 cents to $1.50.) 

Along the Yuba River above Marysville may be seen the 
extensive gold dredgers in operation, night and day. Ham- 
monton, with a population of 600, and Marigold, with a popu- 
lation of 100, are towns on the Yuba which are centers of 
this industry. Above these places on the same river is 
Smartsville, a mining town, from which a road leads northeast 
into Nevada County, reaching Nevada City and Grass Valley. 

Two side trips from Marysville which are of interest to 
touristfe are (a) Marysville to Oroville and (b) Marysville 
Into Sierra County. 



( a ) Marysville to Oroville 



This trip may be made by the Southern Pacific or Western 
Pacific Railroads, both following the same general route. 
The Oroville branch of the Southern Pacific runs north from 
Marysville through Ramirez (8) and Combs (2) into Butte 
County at Honcut (2). A road runs northeast from here 
along Honcut Creek to Bangor (6) in Wyandotte Valley, a 
prosperous foothill orange region. Northwest of here is 
Wyandotte colony, another orange-growing region. 

From Honcut the railroad runs north through Hearst (6) 
to Palermo (1). About Palermo is one of the richest orange 
and olive sections in Northern California. The famous Mis- 
sion olives attain a high standard in this and other parts of 
Butte County. Butte County oranges reach the markets 
very early. From Palermo the route continues through Villa 
Verona (3) to Oroville (3). 



202 

OROVILLB, beautifully situated in the foothills on the 
Feather River, is the county seat of Butte County. (Union 
Hotel 9nd Annex, A. P. $2.50 to $3; E. P. 50 cents to $2.) Tlie 
population in 1910 was 3,859; it is now 6,000". Near here were 
some of the richest of the early placer mines, and the develop- 
ment of gold-dredging in this region has once more made 
Oroville important as a mining center. But the name Oro- 
ville, "gold town," is appropriate as well, because of the great 
shipments of golden oranges made annually from the city. 
The orange tree furnishes the principal ornamental shrub- 
bery, lining the streets of the city and growing in the gar- 
dens. The largest olive piciding and olive oil v/orks in the 
courxtry are at Oroville. 

Across the river from Oroville is THERMALITO, joined 
to the larger community by a great steel bridge. Here was 
planted in 1886 the first orange grove in Northern California. 
The first orange tree in this section, planted in 1851, may 
still be seen at Bidwell's Bar, east of Oroville, The Ther- 
malito region is a prosperous orange and olive district. Prom 
the elevation above the depot can be had a commanding 
view, with the Sierras and Table Mountain in the background. 

A stage road (excellent for automobiles) extends east- 
ward from Oroville into the mountains, reaching som,e of Cal-r 
ifornia's finest scenery. The route lies through Hurleton and 
Enterprise to Mooretown (26 miles). (Guides at the hotel.) 
Near here, at the junction of Fall River and the middle fork 
of the Feather River is a region of wonderful beauty. At this 
point a remarkable granite cone. Bald Rock, rises almost per- 
pendicularly for 2,000 feet above the water. The canyon of 
the middle fork for six miles above here presents grand and 
rugged scenery. The great falls on the Fall River, are half 
a mile above the junction with the Feather River. Here the 
Fall River makes a sheer drop of 471 feet. This entire moun- 
tain region has many beautiful waterfalls, cascades, deep-cut 
canyons and rugged peaks, making it one of the most pictur- 
esque in the Sierras. 

Oroville is the gateway to the upper Feather River Canyon, 
a scenic region, reached by the line of the Western Pacific, 
described in a later portion of this work. 

(b) Marysville Into Sierra County 

A stage road leads from Marysville northeast to Brown's 
Valley, a stock, dairying, fruit and farming center. In this 



203 

region is one of the oldest irrigation systems in the state. 
From here the road continues through the picturesque Oregon 
Hills to Camptonville, a mining and stock-raising center, 50 
miles from Marysville. I'he road continhes thence into 
SIERRA COUNTY. The area of this mountain county is 923 
square miles; the population in 1910 was 4,098. The prin- 
cipal industry still is gold mining, over $190,000,000 having 
been taken from Sierra County mines and river beds since 
1849. One of the old mining regions made famous by Bret 
Harte, reached from Marysville, is described at the end of 
this section. Lumbering, and farming in the Sierra Valley, 
in the eastern section, are important industries of Sierra 
County. 

From Camptonville, the main stage line reaches Mountain 
House (13 miles), whence a side road extends to Forest and 
Alleghany, both mining towns. The main route continues 
north to Goodyear's Bar (5) the locale of some of Bret 
Harte's stories, and thence northeast to Downieville (4). 

DOWNIEVILLE, the county seat, is a picturesque town, 
situated at the juncture of the north and south forks of the 
Yuba River. (St. Charles Hotel, $1.) On all sides are tree- 
covered mountains. The residence section is situated on the 
south side of the river. The business section with its one 
narrow street is a quaint reminder of the old mining days. 
Downieville was founded in 1849 and is one of the oldest 
mountain towns in the state. In the time of the gold rush up 
the Yuba River, in 1852, the population was 5,000. In 1910 
the population of the township was 751. At Durgan Flat, 
within the present town limits, $5,000,000 in gold was taken 
out in the early days. Downieville is growing in popularity 
as a summer resort. 

From Downieville the main stage road continues northeast 
along the Yuba River to SIERRA CITY (13). The population 
is 350. (Mackay's Hotel, A. P. $2.) This old mining town 
was founded in 1850, and the rich Sierra Buttes mine is still 
worked. North of Sierra City rises Sierra Buttes Peak, the 
highest point in Sierra County. The loftiest pinnacle of this 
double peak rises 8,600 feet above sea-level. From the sum- 
mit a wonderful view may be had of the Sierra and its lakes; 
in the distance, to the west, the Sacramento River and to the 
east the sage-brush plains of Nevada. 

The Lake Region of Sierra County lies to the north of 
this peak, and from Sierra City is a road leading northwest 
through this district. Another point of departure is Bassett's 
(see below). In the lake region, justly termed the fisher- 



204 

man's paradise, are 27 lakes of various sizes, all within a half- 
day's walk of each other. These lakes are very deep, their 
basins ground out of solid rock by glacial action. Those eas- 
iest to reach are the Sardine Lakes, the Salmon Lakes, Squaw 
Lake, Gold Lake; the latter is the largest. Some miles be- 
yond, in Plumas County, is Long Lake, another of consider- 
able size. The beauty of this part of the Sierras invites a 
visit from the tourist as well as the sportsman. 

From Sierra City the main road runs northeast to Bas- 
sett's (5). TMs is a popular summer resort situated in the 
high Sierras at the headwaters of the north fork of the 
Yuba River. It is known for the hunting and fishing in its 
neighborhood; from it the lake region is easily reached. 

From Bassett's the route runs through the Yuba Gap, 
where the road makes many sharp turns. About here is the 
great timber belt of Sierra County. The road passes through 
Sattley (whence a branch road leads to Loyalton), to Sierra- 
ville (22), in the southern end of Sierra Valley. The Sierra 
Valley is the longest and most elevated of the valleys of the 
mountains, being 4,750 feet above sea level. There is much 
excellent farming land; stock-raising and dairying are con- 
siderable industries here. The valley is 30 miles long and 
10 miles wide and has a level floor, extending northward 
some distance into Plumas County. One mile from Sierra- 
ville are the Campbell Hot Sulphur Springs, from which a 
beautiful view of the valley is had. From here the route ex- 
tends southeast to Truckee, where the traveler reaches the 
Southern Pacific Railroad; this portion of the state is de- 
scribed in the route, Sacramento to Truckee and Nevada 
Line. T'ruckee is the point of departure for Lake Tahoe. 

A part of Sierra County which is interesting, though off 
the beaten path, is reached from Marysville by way of Forbes- 
town and Strawberry Valley. From Strawberry Valley the 
stage road runs northeast into Sierra County and into one 
of the oldest mining regions of California. The little settle- 
ments of Scales, Port Wine, St. Louis, Tablerock and Gibson- 
ville are passed en the way into Plumas County. Most of 
these are still maintained by mining. From Tablerock is 
reached Poker Flat, on Canyon Creek, famous as the setting of 
Bret Harte's story, "The Outcasts of Poker Flat." Deadwood is 
south of Poker Flat; near by are the Vv^indow Rock (a cave 
in the hillside), and Deadwood Peak. Saddleback Mountain 
(6,760 feet) is the principal peak in this region. West of 
Gibsonville is Whisky Diggings, another town which added 
color 10 Bret Harte's tales of early days. Brandy, south of 
Scales, is a mining camp with a name reminiscent of the 
"days of old." 



1 3. Marysville to Redding 

This route is a continuation of the journey up the Sacra- 
mento Valley. From Marysville the Southern Pacific line 
crosses the Breather River above Yuba City and runs through 
Berg (4) and Lomo (3) to Live Oak (3), a growing commun- 
ity with about 500 inhabitants. To the west rise the Sutter 
Buttes, which may be reached from here by way of Penning- 
ton, but better from Sutter City (see Route 3 2). 

From Live Oak the main Southern Pacific line enters 
Butte County, extending to Gridley (6i^). BUTTE COUNTY 
has an area of 1,722 square miles, with a varied land surface^ 
running from Sacramento Valley through foothills into the 
mountains. The agricultural products are numerous. In the 
foothill region are grown oranges and olives, while on the 
plains great rice fields are being planted, promising to rival 
the acreage in grain and alfalfa. Deciduous fruits of every 
kind flourish in Butte County, and dairying is an important 
industry. Butte is also the largest gold-producing county 
of California, the chief gold-dredging field lying around Oro- 
ville. 

GRIDLEY is a prosperous farming town, with a popula- 
tion in 1910 of 987. (Gridley Hotel, E. P. 75 cents up.) From 
here the line runs to Biggs (3), another flourishing agricul- 
tural center, with a population of 403 in" 1910. (Hotel Colonia, 
$2.) From Biggs it continues northwest through Richvale (6), 
Nelson (4) and Durham (7) to Chico (6). 

CHICO (pronounced Chee-ko) is a rapidly growing city 
credited by the census of 1910 with a population of 3,750, but 
claiming now over 10,000. (Hotel Auditorium, E. P. $1; Hotel 
Diamond, E. P. $1 up; Park Hotel, $2.50.) The city was 
founded in 1850 by General Bidwell, who established the great 
Bidwell fruit ranch adjoining. In Chico is situated one of the 
state's large normal schools. One of the finest municipal 
parks in the world is owned by the municipality; it contains 
1,900 acres and reaches to the center of the city. Three miles 
from Chico is the LTnited States government experimental 
farm of 100 acres. The great factory of the Diamond Match 
Company, employing 1,500 m'en, is situated at Barber, a 
southern suburb of Chico. The giant Hooker Oak, near the 
city, is declared to be the largest oak in the world by Sir 
Joseph Hooker, the scientist, and Gifford Pinchot, the well- 
known conservationist. 



206 

There are a number of pleasant side trips in the vicinity 
of Chico which well repay the traveler. In the foothills there 
is picturesque scenery. An excellent automobile road runs 
northeast from Chico to Richardson Mineral Springs, ten miles 
distant. (See advertising pages.) The springs are also 
reached by stage running every afternoon (except Sunday) 
from Chico. Richardson Springs are situated in a sheltered 
spot in Mud Creek Canyon; the hotel is open the entire year 
(rates, $12 to $14 per week). There are also facilities for 
camping out. The waters are of acknowledged curative 
properties; the springs are numerous and contain a variety 
of mineral substances in solution. The region about here 
contains much of interest. Good trails lead to Fern Canyon, 
Buzzard's Roost, the Arrow Point, Flag Point (the highest 
in these hills) and North Hill. From the heights are sweep- 
ing views over the Sacramento Valley. The so-called "Hole 
in the Rock," used by the Indians as a lookout post, is near 
here; the mortars employed by the aborigines in grinding 
their corn are formed out of the solid rock; there are also 
remarkable overhanging rocks at this point. The Falls of 
Corizanthus, making a plunge of 100' feet over the ledge into 
the gorge below, are in Mud Creek Canyon, one-half mile from 
Richardson Springs. 

Other interesting journeys can be made over the lines of 
the Northern Pacific Railway; one branch runs west across 
the Sacramento River to Hamilton, in Glenn County; an- 
other line extends southward to Oroville and Marysville. 

The Butte County Railroad runs northeast from Chico 
through the towns of Paradise (14), Magalia (5) and Appleton 
(3) to Sterling City (9). Roads from Chico lead into the 
Sierras, reaching Lassen Buttes and the Big Meadow resorts, 
described in other portions of this book (consult index). 

The main line of the Southern Pacific runs from Chico 
northward through Nord (7), to Vina (12), in TEHAMA 
COUNTY. This county has an area of 2,893 square miles, the 
population in 1910 being 11,401. The principal industries are 
horticulture, stock raising and lumbering. The head of navi- 
gation on the Sacramento River is Red Bluff, the county 
seat. The mountains of Tehama are lofty and rugged. The 
Sierras rise on' the east, while to the west are the Yalla 
Balla Mountains, the highest of the Coast Ranges. A num- 
ber of attractive resorts are located in the county. TTiere is 
excellent hunting for deer, bear and California lions, as well 
as smaller game. Salmon and other food fish are caught in 
the Sacramento River and trout in the tributary streams. 
The county roads are well adapted tb automobiling. 



207 

VINA is on the Stanford University Farm, in a rich sec- 
tion. There is a large winery located here. To the west, in 
the Sierras, is Camel Mound, a strafigely-shaped eminence. 
From Vina the route continues through Ensign (4) and 
Sesma (3i/^) across the Sacramento and to Tehama (1). 

TEHAMA had a population of 221 in 1910. It is the junc- 
ture of the Southern Pacific lines running up to this point on 
either side of the river. (Tait House. $1.50.) A fine railroad 
bridge spans the Sacramento at this point. Across the river 
is the new and growing town of Los Molinos, in the fertile 
colony of the same name. Dairying and raising alfalfa and 
fruit are the chief industries of this region. TTie roads are 
good and a new state highway is partly completed, running 
to Eureka, Humboldt County. At Tehama the line of the 
Southern Pacific running through the western side of the 
Sacramento Valley joins the line of the Shasta Route; the 
region traversed by this railroad is described later in the 
route, Woodland to Red Bluff. 

From Tehama the main line runs northwest through Pro- 
berta (21/2) and Rawson (3), to Red Bluff (4i^). 

RED BLUFF, the county seat and principal city of Te- 
hama County, has a population of about 4,000. In 1910 it 
had 3,530 people. It is a place of considerable commercial im- 
portance, being the head of navigation on the Sacramento 
River. The city is splendidly situated on a bluff overlooking 
the river. (TYemont Hotel, $2 to $3.) This thriving com- 
munity has many attractions for the visitor. The public 
buildings include a handsome new free library. There are 
considerable manufactures carried on in Red Bluff and the 
city is growing industrially. It is one of the centers of the 
lumber industry of Northern California. The farming country 
tributary to the city is exceedingly fertile. 

From Red Bluff roads extend in several directions. One 
to the southwest leads to the towns of Redbank and Lowrey. 
Beyond these places are Colyear Springs, in the mountains. 
This is a popular summer resort, situated near Tom's Head, 
(6,775), a picturesque peak in the Yalla Balla Range. To the 
southwest is Mount Linn (8,604) and to the northeast is Yalla 
Balla Mountain (9,000). 

Another road from Red Bluff runs west through Blossom 
and Hunter, and thence northwest through Rosewood to Bee- 
gum Peak. Here the road enters Shasta County, running 
through Harrison Gulch (Knob) and thence into TVinity 



208 

County. A road to the north from Red Bluff runs through 
Bend, the strawberry-growing center, and Jelly, across Battle 
Creek into Shasta County, and on to Balls Ferry, at which 
place is the great government fish hatchery. 

Still another road from Red Bluff which offers varied 
scenery along the route leads northeast to Payne's Creek. 
Near this road, nine miles from the city, are the well- 
known Tuscan Springs (see advertising pages). The springs 
are reached by a stage running daily (except Sunday) from 
Red Bluff; the latter part of the road winds through a pic- 
turesque gorge worn by the waters through the rim of the 
ancient crater in which the springs are situated. This is 
the only place in which the volcanic crater, extinct for from 
10,000 to 50,000 years, has been broken. The springs are 
situated at an elevation of 1,000 feet above sea-level; the cli- 
mate is excellent, with no snow in winter. The hotel 
is open throughout the year (rates, $12 per week and up). 
There are fifty springs here, with a large variety of minerals 
in solution; among these are lithia, iodine, soda and potassa. 
Farther to the northeast is the town of Payne's Creek, where 
the road branches. The south fork leads through Bell Mill 
to Lyonsville, in the lumber region. The main road continues 
through Mineral to Morgan Springs, at the foot of Mount 
Lassen (10,437 feet). This place is a favorite summer camp- 
ing ground. Both hot and cold springs abound in this region. 
From Morgan the road crosses into Plumas County through 
the Big Meadow district, described in another part of this 
TDOOk (see index). 

From Red Bluff the Southern Pacific line extends through 
Blunt (51/4) and Hooker (4i^) to Cottonwood (6i/^) in Shasta 
County. 

SHASTA COUNTY has an area of 3,858 square miles. The 
population in 1910 was 18,920. Farming and fruit-growing 
are the great industries in the valley land. In mineral wealth 
the county is ranked first in California, leading in copper 
and silver and being well up in gold production. The Sierras 
in the east and the Coast Range in the west lend Shasta 
much scenic beauty; the Coast Range is here especially 
rugged. TTie picturesque Canyon of the Sacramento in the 
north is dotted with pleasure resorts. The hunting and fish- 
ing in the mountains are unsurpassed. There are numerous 
mineral springs, especially in the eastern part of the county. 
Shasta County is also noted for the number and beauty of 
its streams and rivers. 



209 

COTTONWOOD is a growing town of 600 population, 
situated in an orchard and stock country. It is also the ship- 
ping point of a considerable lumber district. From Cotton- 
wood a road leads west along Cottonwood Creek to Gas Point. 
From Cottonwood the main route extends to ANDERSON, 
the 'great fruit center of the county. This prosperous town 
has a population of 1,500. (Oriental Hotel, $2.) Anderson 
is the terminus of the Anderson and Bella Vista Railroad, 
and is the chief center of the lumber industry. TTiis rail- 
way line runs northeast to the town of Bella Vista (17 
miles), through a picturesque country. From Anderson a road 
leads northwest through Olinda and Oak to Igo (see later). 
Another road runs northeast to Millville. The main route 
continues from Anderson through (jirvan (6 miles) to Red- 
ding (6 miles). 

REDDING, the county seat of Shasta County, has a popu- 
lation of about 5,000; the figures given by the 1910 census 
were 3,572. The city is beautifully located at the head of the 
Sacramento Valley. (Golden Eagle Hotel, E. P. $1 up; Hotel 
Lorenz, A. P. $1.50 up, E. P. 50 cents up; Hotel Redding, E. P.) 
To the east rise the Sierra Nevadas; to the west the Coast 
Range, while Mount Shasta is seen to the north. The river 
bounds the city on the north and east. Redding is the nat- 
ural shipping center of an immense fruit-growing, farming 
and mining district. It is the chief shipping point for Te- 
hama as well as Shasta County. Tlie city has a promising 
commercial future. The public buildings are numerous and 
attractive. The Shasta County court house and the hall of 
records are situated near the center of the city in a large 
square, surrounded by palms and orange trees. The city hall 
and the large high school are both substantial buildings. 
The Public Library is situated in a pretty park. 

From Redding there are a number of roads diverging into 
the mountainous districts upon eitlier side of the valley. 
One of these, running eastward to the country about Lassen 
Peak is described in Section a under this route. 
Another leading westward over the Shasta-Trinity Divide 
to Weaverville is described in Section b under this route. 

A road extending through the southeastern part of Shasta 
County reaches an interesting and picturesque region. It 
passes through Larkin to Igo and Ono, old towns situated in 
the "thermal belt," and surrounded by thriving orange or- 
chards. About here is a rich placer mining territory. From 
Ono the road runs to Harrison Gulch (Knob). Here is sit- 
uated the Midas mine, a heavy producer of gold ore. From 



210 

Harrison Gulch the road passes into T'ehama County. The 
mountain range traversed along this route is the Bully 
Choop Range, the main peaks being, from north to south, 
Mount Bally, Bully Choop Mountain and Chanchelulla Moun- 
tain. These are among the loftiest in the Coast Ranges. 

( a ) Redding to Lassen Peak 

Prom Redding the road leading eastward crosses the line 
of the Andrews and Bella Vista Railroad and extends through 
Palo Cedro to Millville, in a stock-raising country. From here 
a road runs south to Balls Ferry, at the juncture of Battle 
Creek with the Sacramento River. Here is the great fish 
hatchery operated by the United States government. The 
streams of many regions abroad have been stocked with 
game trout from this hatchery. About six miles v/est of 
Balls Ferry is the town of Anderson (see above). All of this 
region is popular with campers and pleasure seekers. From 
Balls Ferry the road continues northeast to Inwood and 
Shingletown, in the lumbering region, and thence through 
Plateau to Viola, situated at the base of Lassen Peak (often 
pronounced Lawsen). 

Lassen Peak (10,577 feet), is an extinct volcano. The 
sides of the mountain are timbered two-thirds of the way up. 
This is the loftiest Peak in this part of the Sierras. It was 
named after Peter Lassen, an early settler. Hot and boil- 
ing springs abound in the vicinity of Lassen Peak. North of 
Lassen Peak the mountains are high and rugged, the prin- 
cipal peaks being Latour Butte, Lookout Mountain, Crater 
Peak (8,724), Burney Butte (7,880), and Bald Mountain. Cra- 
ter Peak is an extinct volcano. 

From Millville a road runs northeast to Whitmore in the 
hop-raising section, thence north to Fern, where it ends. 
Another road from Millville leads farther to the north, 
through Oak Run to Round Mountain and Montgomery Creek. 
Here the road branches, one road running north through Pine- 
land and Wengler to Elena, on the Pitt River. This beautiful 
river is said to have received its name from the Indians who 
once lived on its banks, called the "Pit" Indians, because they 
trapped their game by means of covered-over pits. TTie Pitt 
River region is popular with tourists and pleasure-seekers. 
The main road from Montgomery Creek leads to Burney, at 
the base of Burney Butte. A side road leads north from 
here along Burney Creek, across the Pitt River to the town 
of Cayton. From Burney the main route runs northeast, 



211 

through Cassel and Carbon, in the fertile Hat Creek farming 
district, thence across the Pitt River to the town of Fall 
River. At this point the Fall River, one of the most pictur- 
esque in California, joins the Pitt River. The river received 
its name from the number of falls and rapids along its course. 
From the town of Fall River a road follows the valley of 
the river through Glenburn to Dana. The main road con* 
tinues from Fall River through McArthur to Pittville in Las- 
sen County, just over the county line. 

( b ) Redding to Weaverville 

Tlie stage road to Weaverville offers unexcelled scenery; 
half of the year an auto stage is run over this route in ad- 
dition to the regular stage. The route runs first to Shasta, 
the old county seat of Shasta County; the houses are strongly 
built, with heavy shutters and doors, being constructed orig- 
inally as a protection against the raids of Indians. From here 
the road extends through Stella and Fi-ench Gulch; this ter- 
ritory is old gold-mining country, worked in the "days 
of '49." 

From French Gulch the Redding-Weaverville road enters 
T'l^nity County, reaching Deadwood. TRINITY COUNTY has 
an area of 3,166 square miles and had a population of 3,301 
in 1910. The sparse settlement is due to lack of transporta- 
tion facilities, there being no railroad in the county. The 
principal industry for fifty years has been mining. Hy- 
draulic placer, drift placer, dredge and quartz mining are all 
carried on in the county and the various processes in ex- 
tracting the gold are of great interest to travelers. Farming 
and fruit-growing are developing industries in the southern 
part of Trinity County. Tlie scenic attractions are many and 
varied. Most of the territory is mountainous, the main 
ranges being the Trinity Mountains, the Scott Mountains and 
Salmon Alps, all to the north, the Yalla Balla Mountains in 
the east and the South Fork Mountains in the west. The 
principal rivers are the Trinity, Mad, Eel and Van Duzen. 
Tlie county received its name from the Trinity River. 

From Deadwood the stage road runs to LEWISTON. Near 
here is Paulsen Grange, one of the large ranches of Trinity 
County; accommodations for travelers may be had here. 
From Lewiston the main stage road crosses a fork of the 
Trinity River and reaches WEAVERVILLE, the county seat 
and principal town. (Union Hotel, $2; New York Hotel, $2.) 
The population of Weaverville township in 1910 was 674. To 



212 

the west of here are the Oregon Mountains; one of the most 
prominent mountains of this range is the Weaver Butte. 

Weaverville is the center from which radiate roads to 
various parts of Trinity County. One road runs west to 
Junction City, Canyon Creek, North Fork and East Fork; an- 
other runs southward to Douglas City, Hay Forli, Wild- 
wood and the State Highway; the latter connected with roads 
from Red Bluff and Redding. Another road reaches Trinity 
Center, whence are reached French Gulch and Delta (by a 
toll road) ; from Trinity Center also roads run northwest to 
Carrville and Coffee Creek and southwest to Minersville. 
There are two roads from Weaveryille to Lewiston. There 
are a number of other routes which make outlying sections 
of the county accessible. 

A good trail on a wagon road grade is being constructed 
down the Trinity River into Humboldt County. This will af- 
ford the tourist on foot or horseback the entrance into an 
extremely picturesque mountain region. 



1 4. Redding to Oregon Line 

This route embraces the conclusion of the trip up the 
Sacramento Valley and includes some of the finest mountain 
scenery of the state; for many miles upon this journey 
the towering form of Mount Shasta dominates the landscape. 

From Redding the line of the Southern Pacific railroad 
runs northward through the narrowing Sacramento Canyon. 
After passing Middle Creek (3) the traveler reaches Keswick 
(2). From here the Iron Mountain Railroad runs northwest 
through the stations of Lone Tree and Minnesota to Iron 
Mountain (11 miles) over a picturesque route. The main 
route continues from Keswick through Copley (4) to Coram 
(4), a town of about 1,000 population, situated in the copper 
producing region. From here the line runs to KENNETT 
(4), the center of the great copper industry. Since its incep- 
tion in 1896, this industry has grown enormously. Shasta 
County leads the state in the production of copper. The 
Moth Copper Company's smelter at Kennett is the largest in 
operation in California. The output is 40,000,000 pounds per 
year, valued at $5,50'0,000. Near here, four miles west of 



213 

Kenuett, is a mountain of pure limestone, the production of 
lime being large. The Pitt River enters the Sacramento a 
few miles north of Kennett. 

From Kennett the railroad leads to Pitt (2), from which 
place the Sacramento Valley and Eastern Railroad traverses 
the copper belt to Bully Hill, a distance of 15 miles. The 
road runs through Heroult (5), at which place is located the 
Noble electric iron plant, the only electric iron producer in 
this country. From here the line extends through Copper 
City (3) to Delamar (6), where there is a large copper plant, 
and thence to Bully Hill (1). The scenery along this line is 
impressive. At Baird, on the McCloud River, a short distance 
north of Pitt, is the United States Fish Hatchery. The Mc- 
Cloud River, rising at the base of Mount Shasta, is much 
sought by summer campers, as it flows through a valley of 
great scenic beauty. Upon its banks are many country 
homes of wealthy Californians. 

From Pitt the main road continues through Elmore (4) 
to Antler (7) and thence through Delta (5V2), La Moine (3i/4) 
and Gibson (3) to Sims (3), or Hazel Creek. There are a 
great many summer and health resorts along the Sacramento 
in this region. From Sims the line runs through Conant (4), 
Castella (2) and Castle Rock (1) to Castle Crag (2). These 
places are at the base of the picturesque Castle Crags. These 
peaks, of volcanic origin, are famous among California's 
scenic beauties. There is a trail up the almost sheer wall 
of the mountains from Castle Crags Farm and the ascent, 
though fatiguing, is rendered worth while because of the 
majestic grandeur of the surrounding scenery. From the sum- 
mit there is an outlook over miles of mountain and valley. 
Mount Shasta occupies the foreground to the north, while 
other peaks which can be made out are Mount Lassen, Mount 
Eddy, Black Butte and Eagle Peak. In the canyon below are 
forests of Norwegian pine, yellow and sugar pine and fir. The 
Sacramento River here is a rushing stream which affords 
fine fishing. At the point where the picturesque Soda Creek 
joins the river is situated Castle Crags Farm, a leading sum- 
mer resort. From here the crags may be reached by the 
trail on horseback. Only the hardiest should make the climb 
on foot. The topmost pinnacles of Castle Crags are almost 
perpendicular; these impressive ramparts flank the valley for 
some miles. 

From Castle Crag station the route enters Siskiyou county, 
reaching Dunsmuir (4). 



214 

SISKIYOU COUNTY, one of the extreme northern divi- 
sions of California, is larger than some of the Eastern states 
in area. Tlie county contains 6,256 square miles, about five- 
sixths of which is mountainous, the remainder being valley 
land. The mountain scenery draws many summer campers 
and tourists to Siskiyou. To the east tower the mighty peaks 
of the Sierra, with Mount Shasta (14,444 feet) rising above 
the range. The Trinity and Scott Mountains are in the south- 
west, the Siskiyou Mountains in the north and northwest, and 
the Salmon Mountains in the west. All of these ranges are 
joined by spurs, so that the central valley of Siskiyou County 
is completely surrounded by peaks and high mountain 
ridges. Though one of the most sparsely settled regions in 
the state (population in 1910, 18,801), Siskiyou is one of the 
oldest in point of history and one of the richest as regards 
natural opportunities. It was the scene of mining excitement 
in the early 50's, especially about Yreka, and mines are still 
worked throughout the county. Lumbering, stock-raising and 
agriculture are now far more productive than mining, how- 
ever, and are destined to become more important as the mil- 
lions of acres of pasture, farming and timber land in Siskiyou 
are developed. For the sportsman, Siskiyou offers unexcelled 
opportunities for angling and big-game hunting. The streams 
are filled with great steelhead trout, mountain trout, rainbow 
trout. Eastern brook trout and also salmon in the spawning 
season. Mountain sheep, muledeer, black-tail deer, white-tail 
deer, bear and smaller anim.als abound in the woods and 
mountains; quail, doves, ducks and geese add to the variety 
of game. 

DUNSMUIR, the first town entered from the south, is the 
largest community in Siskiyou County, having a population 
of 2,700. (Hotel Weed, E. P.) It has grown rapidly, partially 
due to the fact that it is the headquarters of the Shasta Divi- 
sion of the Southern Pacific Railroad. The elevation at Duns- 
muir is 2,300 feet. Going north, the train constantly ascends, 
the grade in some places being among the most difficult in 
the country. The pine-clad hills rising on either side make 
the ascent very picturesque. Beside the railroad track run 
the headwaters of the Sacramento River, and the scenery of 
the canyon is varied by rapids and waterfalls. Most notable 
of these are the beautiful Mossbrae Falls, near Shasta 
Springs. 

From Dunsmuir the route passes through Upper Soda 
Springs (1) and Shasta Retreat (1), both popular summer 
resorts, to SHASTA SPRINGS (1). The springs are situated 



215 

near the railroad track. The well-known Shasta water is bot- 
tled and shipped from here. A scenic railway takes visitors 
from the station through the pine woods and beside running 
creeks and cascades to the Shasta Springs Hotel, situated on 
the plateau above. From Shasta Springs a fifty-mile private 
automobile boulevard has recently been constructed to the 
McCloud River; the journey over this road is one of inde- 
scribable beauty, with Mount Shasta in sight most of the 
way. There are numerous other drives about Shasta Springs 
which invite the motorist. 

From here the railroad continues throrgh Cantara (2) and 
Mott (4) to Sisson (6). SISSON is a town of about 750 people, 
at the foot of Mount Shasta. It is a center of the lumber- 
ing industry. A point of interest is the State Fish Hatchery, 
which raises millions of fish each year, principally trout, and 
with them stocks the rivers and streams of California. This 
fish hatchery, which is open to the public, is the largest in the 
world. The Sisson Tavern ($2.50 up) and three other hotels 
furnish accommodations for tourists. A side trip of great 
charm is made from here to McCloud, on the river of the 
same name. A branch railroad runs to the town, which is a 
typical lumber camp, owned by a company which employs 
1,700 men; the yearly cut of lumber of this concern is over 
50,000,000 feet. Along the McCloud there are many summer 
homes. 

Mount Shasta, usually ascended from Sisson, is practi- 
cally a single cone of an extinct volcano. A road runs from 
Sisson to the timber line, whence the ascent is made by trail. 
It is the usual custom to camp for the night at the timber line, 
thus making the climb to the summit and return in one day. 
Guides for the trip can be secured at the hotels; the ascent is 
not especially difficult. From the summit of Mount Shasta 
(14,444 feet above sea-level), there is one of the most magnifi- 
cent views to be had anywhere, both in extent and variety of 
scenery. At the top of the mountain there are many evi- 
dences of the volcanic origin of the peak; steam still emerges 
from the higher crevices and molten sulphur bubbles out near 
the summit. There are also remarkable lava caves, caused 
by the cooling of the outer crust of the lava, while the molten 
core flowed out; some of these caves, or lava tubes, are very 
extensive, one being three-quarters of a mile long. On the 
eastern and northeastern slopes are two glaciers, the Whitney 
and McCloud. There is always snow around the summit of 
the mountain, though at some seasons it almost disappears. 



216 

From Sisson the railroad continues northward through Up- 
ton (2), Dietz (3) and Igerna (4) to WEED (2). This town, 
with a population of 1,500, is a great lumber center. Most of 
the inhabitants are employed in the sawmill and the sash 
and door factory — one of the largest concerns of this 
kind in the country. A branch line leads from Weed to Klam- 
ath Falls, Oregon. This road traverses the Butte Valley and 
goes through the growing towns of McDoel and Dorris, centers 
of the Dunkard colony in this region. From Weed the main 
route descends steadily into the Shasta Valley, running 
through Edgewood (5), a dairying center, and Gazelle (8), 
whence thousands of cattle are shipped annually, to MON- 
TAGUE. This town of 500 people is situated in a rich farming 
region. East of Montague is a small but fertile valley, hidden 
by the barren hillocks, reached by wagon road. It is the Little 
Shasta Valley, and is peopled by thriving and enlightened 
ranchers. On the eastern end of this valley, is Table Rock, 
once the scene of Indian ceremonies, and near which are 
found mineral springs. 

From Montague is made a short side trip to Yreka, the 
county seat of Siskiyou County. This region is well worth 
visiting, containing some of the most characteristic country 
of Northern California. The branch railway from Montague 
leads northwest to Yreka, 7 miles distant. 

YREKA is a thriving town of 2,500 inhabitants. It is mod- 
ern in every respect, with ample hotel accommodations. 
Franco-American Hotel, A. P. $1.50 to $2.50, E. P. $1 to $1.50; 
Clarendon House, $2.) The county court house and hall of 
records are handsome buildings. The town was founded dur- 
ing the mining excitement, when gold was discovered here and 
in the hills surrounding. Many became rich in this district 
through mining, but the yellow metal was quickly extracted, 
and all that remains to commemorate the "days of old, and the 
days of gold" in Yreka is an irregularity given to the land for 
acres outside the city limits, where mounds of upturned earth, 
now smoothed down by the wind and weather, show where the 
hard-fisted miners' claims were staked. However, there are 
still a few mines about Yreka, and a great many in the in- 
terior of the country. Yreka was in the region of the Modoc 
war, and relics of those early conflicts are still kept by old- 
timers living at Yreka and in other parts of the county. Many 
of the early inhabitants remember the fact that it was in this 
county that Joaquin Miller, the poet, spent several years of 
rough Western life as a miner, rancher and lawyer. 



217 

Beyond Yreka lies the Scott Valley, an important farming 
region of 150,000 acres. This country is reached by stage just 
as in the days of '49; an automobile line also runs from Yreka 
southwest 18 miles to Fort Jones (500 population) and to Etna 
(900 population), 12 miles south of Fort Jones, and in the cen- 
ter of a beautiful valley, bounded on all sides by pine-covered 
mountains. There are a number of smaller settlements in this 
region, among them Greenview, Callahan's, Scott's Bar, Ham- 
burg, Hajipy Camp, and Sawyer's Bar. T'he last four are min- 
ing camps. The western half of the county, bordering upon 
Del Norte and Humboldt, is very mountainous. Lumbering 
and mining are the industries of this part of the county. 

From Montague the main line of the Southern Pacific runs 
to Ager (11), whence a road runs to Klamath Springs, a popu- 
lar resort. (Klamath Springs Hotel, $2 and $3 per day.) The 
distance by the stage and automobile road is 20 miles. 7 miles 
of which are along the banks of the picturesque Klamath River. 
The railroad continues through Thrall (2) and Klamathon (2) 
to Hornbrook (3), with a population of 350. From here the 
line passes through Hiit (9) into Oregon, reaching Colestin 
(7). Beyond here is Ashland (20), from which the traveler 
reaches Portland. 



1 5. Woodland to Red Bluff 



The journey from Woodland along the western side of the 
Sacramento Valley includes a visit to some of the richest 
agricultural land in California. From Woodland the Southern 
Pacific Railroad runs northwest to the town of Yolo (4%). 
YOLO was once the county seat of Yolo County. It is situated 
on Cache Creek, in the heart of a fertile fruit district. The 
Yolo orchard, adjoining the town, is one of the largest in the 
state. From Yolo the route extends through Ronda (4), 
Zamora (2) and Brentona (2) to Dunnigan i^Vz). These towns 
are all farming centers; grain, hay and grapes being produced 
in this section. From Dunnigan the line runs into Colusa 
County at Hershey (3). 

COLUSA COUNTY has an area of 1,140 square miles, with 
a population of 7,732. It lies in the very heart of the fertile 
Sacramento Valley, its principal industries being agricultural. 
In the western part of the county, whioh is mountainous, with 
some productive valleys intervening, grazing and mining are 



218 

carried on. The county derived its name from an Indian tribe, 
the Colusa or Colusi, which formerly occupied the west bank 
of the Sacramento. 

The railroad route extends from Hershey through Harring- 
ton (2) to Arbuckle (5). (Hotel Ash, $2 up; Strickler House, 
$2.) The county road, the principal automobile route, runs 
from near Hershey northward to the town of College City and 
thence west to Arbuckle (3%). From this point northward, 
the road follows the general course of the railway. From Ar- 
buckle the route runs through Genevra (Berlin, 4) and Macy 
(1) to Williams (5i^). 

WILLIAMS, a considerable farming center, is the point at 
which roads diverge to the east and west, connecting the trib- 
utary region with the railroad. (Williams Hotel, $2.) The 
east road runs to Colusa, the county seat. The west road ex- 
tends to Venado, whence the roads reach into the mountain 
regions. One route runs southwest to Sulphur Creek, where 
there are small gold and quicksilver mines. The northwest 
road runs to the town of Leesville, where roads diverge into 
Glenn and Lake Counties. A pleasant side trip from Williams 
is by stage to Wilbur Springs, situated 25 miles west of the 
town. During the summer months an automobile service is 
also run to the springs. (Rates, $14 and $16 per week; see ad- 
vertising pages.) The springs are situated in the Coast Range 
at an elevation of 1,250 feet above sea-level; the waters are 
of recognized medicinal qualities. Among them are hot sul- 
phur, cold black sulphur, cold white sulphur, magnesia and 
warm salt water springs. There are a number of popular re- 
sorts in the western portion of Colusa County, in the Coast 
Range. 

From Williams the main route runs to Colusa Junction, 
where the Southern Pacific crosses the small Colusa and Lake 
Railroad. This line begins at Sites, where two large quarries 
take out the stone known as the Colusa sandstone, which is 
famous in California for building purposes. Many of the large 
buildings in San Francisco have been constructed from Colusa 
sandstone. From Sites the railroad runs southeast through 
Mills (41^), Fair view (2), Lurline (2i^) to Colusa Junction 
(3). Continuing west, the line extends to Colusa. 

COLUSA, the county seat, is situated on the Sacramento 
River. (Hotel Riverside, $2.) The population in 1910 was 
1,582. It has considerable river trade and is the center of the 
roads which extend along the river north and south, in the 
rich farming and daii:y region. The southern road runs 
through the towns of Sycamore, Grimes and Grand Island into 



219 

Sutter County, at Cranmore. The road- leading north extends 
to the town of Princeton, in the northeast corner of the county. 
The main route continues north from Colusa Junction through 
Maxwell (4) to Delavan (5) and thence to Norman (5). 

About two miles north of Delavan the railroad enters 
GLENN COUNTY. Glenn County has an area of 1,258 square 
miles, almost evenly divided between valley and mountain. 
The population of the county in 1910 was 7,172; in 1900 it 
was 5,150. The county was named for Dr. Hugh J. G'enn, an 
early wheat-baron, who at one time owned a ranch of 46,G'00 
acres here. The wheat-growing era has almost passed away, 
and now more diversified agriculture is the rule. The valley 
country lying along the Sacramento is exceedingly fertile, 
and in this county are several very large irrigating projects. 
In the foothills and mountains there is excellent hunting in 
season, deer, squirrels, quail and other game abounding; and 
wild geese and ducks are killed by hundreds from the middle 
of November to the first of March. Tliere is trout fishing 
in the mountain streams and a large number of food fishes 
are caught in the Sacramento River. The county roads, espe- 
cially in the valley districts, are in good repair. 

Norman, 5 miles north of Delavan, is the first town 
reached after crossing the county line. Thence the lines of 
travel extend almost due north through the county. From 
Norman they pass by Logandale to Willows (8). 

WILLOWS, the county seat, is a rapidly growing town. 
(The Crawford, E. P. 75 cents up.) The population in 1910 
was 1,139, but it is said to have increased to 3,500 in three 
years. Besides being the seat of the county government, 
Willows has one of the county's high schools, and a growing 
business section. From Willows a branch line of the 
Southern Pacific leads westward through Losac to Fruto, in 
the foothill orchard region. Elk Creek, the center of another 
rich region, lies northwest of Fruto, and is reached by road. 
The main lines extend north from Willows, through the small 
town of Lyman to Germantown (7), a place of about 200 pop- 
ulation. Greenwood, another small town, lies six miles north 
from Germantown and three miles further on is Orland. 

ORLAND, the second town of the county, had a population 
of 836 in 1910, but its growth of late has been rapid, and it 
now has 1,300 people. It has a county high school, and the 
grammar school building is one of the finest north of Sacra- 
mento. The surrounding country is embraced in one of the 
largest irrigation projects in the West, the national govern- 
ment having established here a model irrigation system to 



220 

prove what can be done by irrigation under the best condi- 
tions of soil and climate. The system covers 14,000 acres 
of fertile land in this vicinity. 

Prom Orland a branch line of the Southern Pacific reaches 
HAMILTON, a prosperous agricultural town on the west 
bank of the Sacramento River. (Shotover Inn, $2.50 up.) 
Hamilton has a large beet-sugar factory; the population is 
500. The town is the uerminus of the Orland branch of the 
Southern Pacific and the northern end of the Northern Elec- 
tric railway system. 

North from Orland the lines lead through Wyo (1) into 
Tehama County and to Kirkwood (7). From here the route 
continues to Corning (6*). 

CORNING, the second town of Tehama County, had a pop- 
ulation of 1572 in 1910. It is the center of a fertile orchard 
section. This is one of the chief olive-growing areas of Cal- 
ifornia; the manufacture of olive oil is an important indus- 
try, and the processes are interesting to tourists. Oranges 
are grown extensively in this region. Corning is the center 
of the Maywood Colony. (Hotel Maywood.) From here a 
road leads southwest to Henleyville and thence southwest 
along Thones Creek to Flournoy and Paskenta. 

From Corning the main route continues through Richfield 
(31/^), center of another agricultural colony, and Finnell (2) 
to Tehama (2i/^), where it joins the main line of the Southern 
Pacific Shasta Route, continuing to Red Bluff (see Route 13, 
Marysville to Redding). 



1 6. Sacramento to Placerville 

The route outlined below leads into a region famed in the 
early days because of its great gold production; in fact, gold 
was first discovered in paying quantities in California at 
Coloma, near Placerville. Aside from its historic interest, 
the trip is enjoyable because of the picturesque scenery along 
the route; no journey to California can be said to be com- 
plete without seeing the mountain and foothill regions of the 
Sierra Nevadas. Added value is given to the trip by the fact 
that Lake Tahoe can be reached to best advantage from 
Placerville by an automobile road, on which run regular lines 
of automobile stages during the tourist season. 

From Sacramento the route extends through Brighton 
(5) and Perkins (2) to Jura (9). A branch line from here 



221 

leads to FAIR OAKS (1). This town of 500 inhabitants is 
situated in the lowest foothills near the American River; 
along the banks of the American at this point there are pic- 
turesque bluffs. There is a fruit-packing house at Fair Oaks, 
as well as one at Orangevale, close by. From Jura the route 
extends through Alder Creek (4) and Natoma (1) to Folsom 
(1). FOLSOM, situated on the American River, is the center 
of a rich country. Here is situated a state penitentiary. The 
first railroad constructed in California was built between 
Sacramento and Folsom in 1854 (the Sacramento Valley 
Railroad). The main route rims from Folsom into El Dorado 
county, reaching Cothrin (12). 

EL DORADO COUNTY is one of the oldest in the state, 
having been created in 1850'. It has an area of 1,753 square 
miles. Situated on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains, it is one of the most famous of the "Mother Lode" 
mining counties. It was in the central portion that gold was 
first discovered in California, and ever since frontier days 
mining has played an important part in the life of the county. 
In the early days millions of dollars' worth of gold was 
extracted on or near the surface. For a time the forbidding 
of hydraulic mining by the Legislature caused mining opera- 
tions to decrease, but at the present time there are many 
placer and quartz claims being actively worked. Copper is 
also mined extensively, and quarries in the county furnish an 
exceptionally fine quality of slate. 

Most of the population of the county (7,492 in 1910) is to be 
found in the western, or foothill, region. Beyond an altitude 
of 3,000 feet very few live, except a temporary population of 
campers and pleasure-seekers and also timber cutters and 
cattle men, who invade the mountainous districts during the 
dry season. 

The eastern section of the county, (Extending to the Nevada 
line, and Lake Tahoe, is part of the Sierra forest country, 
rich in timber and latent water power, and dotted with gem- 
like mountain lakes. Many lovers of California scenery are 
attracted during the summer to this region. The mountains, 
at elevations of from 3,000 to 6,000 feet, are covered with 
virgin forests of coniferous trees, with sugar pine, Douglas 
spruce, fir and cedar, all noted for size and beauty. The game 
to be found here also adds to the attraction of the county. 
The beauties of the region are such as are described by John 
Muir in his "Mountains of California." 

TTie railroad runs from Cothrin to Latrobe (3), a pleasant 
foothill town. (Latrobe Hotel, $2 up.) From Latrobe, a north- 
eastern turn is made through Bula (2), Brandon (1^/^), Dugan 



222 

(1%) and Bennett (2), to Shingle Springs (3). This portion 
of the county is devoted principally to grazing and vineyards. 
Cummings (3%) and EI Dorado (3) are on the road to Dia- 
mond Springs (2). At this town is located the largest private 
enterprise of the county, the California Door Company. A nar- 
row-gauge line, thirty-three miles in length, operated by the 
company, penetrates the lumber country to the east and ter- 
minates at Caldor. During the summer, a passenger train is 
run through this scenic region once a week. 

PLACERVILLE, four miles from Diamond Springs, is at 
the end of the Southern Pacific branch running from Sacra- 
mento. Placerville is the county seat. It has a population of 
2,300. As the center of a prosperous mining and farming re- 
gion, it is a well-equipped supply point. There are five 
churches, two newspapers, a daily and a weekly, a box factory, 
the county high school, a library, and a new $120,000 court 
house. (Ohio House, A. P. $2.50'; Carey Hotel, $2.50.) 

Placerville is the historic "Hangtown" of early days, and 
gained its firsi name because it was the scene of many in- 
stances of swift and effective frontier justice. The name was 
later changed to Placerville. It was here that many early for- 
tunes were made, among them being that of J. M. Studebaker, 
then known as "Wheelbarrow John." The way in which the 
foundation for the ample Studebaker fortune was laid at 
"Hangtown" is part of the entertaining annals of El Dorado 
County. After the lapse of sixty years from the time that he 
first set foot in El Dorado County, Mr. Studebaker made a 
trip from his home in South Bend, Indiana, for the purpose 
of honoring his old-time friends and the place where he made 
his start in business. He first went to the old shop where he 
had wrought in making wheelbarrows, and then gathered his 
former companions at a banquet. In his after-dinner speech 
he explained that here he began the making of vehicles, an 
occupation to which he has devoted his life. Instead of dig- 
ging in the mines as most of his companions did, he stuck to 
his craft as a wheelwright, and at the end of a few years re- 
turned to his old home, where he and his brothers established 
the Studebaker factory, that gives employment to thousands 
of men. 

At Placerville is the famous old Pacific mine, from which 
over two million dollars worth of gold has been extracted. It 
is now being reopened by an English company. North of 
Placerville is Coloma, near which gold was discovered on Jan- 
uary 24, 1848, by John W. Marshall, at John A. Sutter's saw 
mill. The heroic statue of Marshall here does honor to the 
discoverer. Still farther north is Georgetown, the center of 



223 

a prosperous mining and fruit-growing country. (New George- 
town Hotel, $1.25.) 

From Placerville north there rims the Placerville & Lake 
Tahoe Railroad, operated by the El Dorado Lumber Com- 
pany. This line traverses the timber district as far as Cam- 
ino, and in time will extend to Lake Tahoe. Tliere also ex- 
tends from Placerville one of the most beautiful automobile 
roads in the state, the Placerville-Tallac state road to Tahoe. 
This thoroughfare extends through miles of mountain scenery 
that cannot be surpassed. 



1 7 . San Francisco to Napa 

and Clear Lake 

This trip may be made by several routes, the most popular 
of which is by the steamer of the Monticello Steamship Com- 
pany to Vallejo and thence by the lines of the Southern Pa- 
cific or the San Francisco, Napa and Calistoga Railway (elec- 
tric) northward through the Napa Valley; from Calistoga 
points on Clear Lake and in Lake County are reached by stage. 
Another way to reach Napa is by way of the route from San 
Francisco to Vallejo (described in Route 11 of this book). 
This trip is made by the Southern Pacific. 

After leaving Vallejo both the Southern Pacific and the line 
of the San Francisco, Napa and Calistoga Railway follow the 
same general route. The routes lead into Napa County, reach- 
ing Napa Junction. 

Four miles north from Vallejo the railroad and principal 
highway enter NAPA COUNTY, a rich orchard and grain-grow- 
ing region, noted as well for its grapes and wine-making. 
The population of the county in 1910 was 19,800; in 1900 it 
was 16,451. The area is 783 square miles. This county has a 
system of roads which is unexcelled in the rural districts of 
the state, and its excellent stone bridges are the best in the 
country; there are now 308 of all sizes and more are being 
constructed, all of durable masonry. 

NAPA JUNCTION, eight miles from Vallejo, is a town with 
cement and other factories. It is the point at which the 
Southern Pacific branch lines diverge; the Santa Rosa branch 
here turns to the west, the Suisun branch to the east. Tliese 
routes offer pleasant side trips. The Santa Rosa region is de- 
scribed in another section (see index). The Suisun branch 



224 

runs from Napa Junction through Creston (4) across into 
Solano County and to Cordelia (4), a prosperous farming 
town. About three miles to the north of here, at the head of 
Green Valley, in a shady canyon, is a pretty little waterfall, 
about 60 feet high. From Cordelia the branch connects with 
the main line at Suisun (see Route 11). 

TTie main route northward up the Napa Valley extends 
through the town of Suscol to the city of Napa, eight miles 
from Napa Junction. 

NAPA, the county seat of the county of that name, is a 
rapidly-growing community, about fifty miles north of San 
Francisco. The population in 1910 was 5,791; in 1900 it was 
4,036. It is the head of navigation on the Napa River, and a 
considerable trade by water with the city of San Francisco is 
growing up. The Napa river drains the Napa Valley, noted for 
its fertility. The valley is thirty miles long and five miles 
broad at its widest point; it is bordered on each side by spurs 
of the Coast Range. 

The city occupies a pretty location in a narrow part of the 
valley, surrounded by the foothills and mountains. To the 
northeast is George Mountain (1,888 feet), while to the north- 
west rise Bismarck Knob (2,370 feet) and Veeder Mountain 
(2,670 feet). The city has an excellent park and boulevard 
system, including a twelve-acre park with botanical gardens. 
There are several attractive public buildings, among them the 
public library, with 10,000 volumes. The hotels of Napa are: 
Alexandria Hotel, E. P.; Hottle House, A. P. $2, E. P. 50 cents 
up; Palace Hotel, A. P. $2.50; TTie Napa, A. P. $2. 

At Napa, southeast of the center of the city, is a State 
Insane Asylum, with 2,000 inmates. The grounds cover 1,900 
acres; there are fifteen buildings, costing in all $1,800',000. 
The name "Napa," in the language of the large and warlike 
tribe of Indians that formerly occupied this region, means 
"fish," and was first applied to the Napa river because of the 
abundance of fish in the stream. The Napa Valley was one of 
the first sections of the state to be settled by Americans, 
some >ears before the overthrow of the Mexican power. 

In the foothills, five miles north of Napa, are the Napa Soda 
Springs, known for their mineral waters and as a resort. An- 
other road from Napa northward leads to the little towns of 
Rector (12) and Atlas (16), lying at the base of Atlas Peak. 
(2,662 feet). There are several fertile little valleys lying 
among these mountains. Monticello, 25 miles northeast of 
Napa, is the principal town of the Eerryessa Valley. It is now 



225 

reached by stage from Napa, but a railroad is projected. The 
road leads northeast, through the town of Capell, in Capell 
Valley. Eerryessa Valley, 18 miles long and two miles wide, 
is a rich farming region. The bridge over Piitah Creek, near 
Monticello, is the largest stone bridge west of the Rocky 
Mountains; it is 298 feet long and cost $19,980. 

From Napa, the railroad lines and main road traverse the 
Napa Valley, through the towns of Union, Oak Knoll and Tru- 
body to Yountville, nine miles north of the county seat. This 
busy and pretty town is the center of a prosperous farming 
community. Yountville is the site of the Veterans' Home of 
California, accommodating 1,000 veterans. General H. W. Bur- 
ton, U. S. A., retired, is commandant. 

From YOUNTVILLE the roads pass through Oakville 
(3 miles from Yountville). West of Oakville rises St. John 
Mountain (2,370 feet). Two miles farther on is Rutherford, 
where is situated the agricultural home of the San Francisco 
Youth's Directory, with 200 children. Four miles from Ruth- 
erford is St. Helena. 

ST. HELENA (Grand Hotel, $1.50 up) is a well-built little 
city, the principal structures being of stone brought from 
nearby quarries. This is the second city of Napa county, and 
in 1910 had a population of 1,603; in 1900 it had 1,582. The 
stone grammar school and high school are models of their 
kind, the latter being especially fine. The public library, of 
mission architecture, contains 3,500 volumes. At St, Helena 
is the largest stone winery in the world, the Graystone; the 
surrounding district is a rich grape country. The St. Helena 
Sanitarium is 3 miles northeast of the city in the foothills of 
Howell Mountain. From St. Helena roads lead northeast to 
the towns of Ahgwin (8), Pope Valley (12) and thence north- 
west to Liddell (17). Another road leads west to the towns 
of Chiles, in Chiles Valley, and Lomitas. These are all pros- 
perous farming communities. 

From St. Helena the main road runs north nine miles to 
Calistoga (Calistoga Hotel, $2), a pretty town lying at the 
head of the Napa Valley and at the base of Mount St. Helena. 
The population in 1910 was 751; in 1900- it was 690. Tliis is 
the northern terminus of the railroad. Within the city limits 
are the well-known Calistoga Hot Springs. 

CALISTOGA is the entrance to the Robert Louis Steven- 
son country. It was in 1880 that the gifted author, with his 
bride, spent two summer months on the side of Mount St. 
Helena, coming down to Calistoga only occasionally. Steven- 
son has embodied this portion of his life in "Silverado Squat- 



226 

ters," which was written here. The little mining settlement 
of Silverado has disappeared; it was abandoned in Steven- 
son's time. The house in which he lived is likewise gone, but 
a monument has been erected on its site which is a shrine 
for admirers of the famous Scotsman. There is an excellent 
trail up the mountain to this spot. Here can be seen yet "the 
one tall pine beside the ledge," the shaft and mine across 
from it, opposite his cabin, all of which he describes. The 
ruined tunnel was used as a wine cellar by Stevenson. The 
old Toll House on the road below was where the Mount 
St. Helena Inn now stands. It was a two-story structure; 
on the porch Stevenson used to wait for the stage 
that brought him his mail. The monument to Stevenson is 
striking; it is in the form of a great desk that supports an 
open book, cut from rosy Scotch granite, all set on a rough 
granite base. 

Mount St. Helena is the highest peak in this part of the 
Coast Range, rearing its crest 4,343 feet above sea-level. The 
mountain was given this name by the Russian naturalist. 
Wosnessomsky, who ascended it in 1841; the name was given 
in honor of the Empress of Russia. The scenery about Mount 
St. Helena is impressive and beautiful, being thus described 
by Stevenson in his "Silverado Squatters": 

'It is the Mount Blanc of one section of the Coast Range. 
It looks down on much intricate country. It feeds in the 
springtime many splashing brooks. From its summit yoa 
must have an excellent lesson in geography, seeing to the 
south San Francisco Bay, with Tamalpais on the one hand 
and Mount Diciblo on the other; to the west and 30 miles 
away the open ocean; eastward and across the cornlands and 
thick tule swamjDs of Sacramento Valley, to where the Central 
Pacific begins to climb the sides of the Sierras; and north- 
ward, for all 1 know, the white head of Shasta looking down 
on Oregon. Three counties, Napa, Lake and Sonoma, march 
across its cliffy shoulders. Its naked peak stands nearly 4,500 
feet above the sea. Its sides are fringed with forest, and the 
soil, where it is bare, glows warm with cinnabar." 

From Calistoga roads lead into Lake and Sonoma Counties, 
a territory famous for the beauty of its scenery and the num- 
ber of its mineral springs. Stage lines from Calistoga reach 
many of the resorts, while the roads are excellent for auto- 
mobile touring. From Calistoga there are two main roads 
into Lake County, the Toll Road along the base of Mount 
St. Helena and one by way of Oat Hill. The former is much 
the better of the two and is four miles shorter than the other. 
At Oat Hill, 12 miles from Calistoga on the latter road, are 



227 

the Oat Hill mines, from which $9,000,000 in cinnabar has 
been taken out. About a mile beyond the road enters Lake 
County, and Middletown, eight miles from Oat Hill, is reached 
over a fairly good road through a picturesque region. 

The Toll Road traverses the country at the base of Mount 
St. Helena, past the Toll House, where toll must be paid. 
Lake County is entered at a point directly east of the summit 
of the mountain. 

LAKE COUNTY, known as a playground for tourists, 
holds some of the most famous scenery in California, and its 
very remoteness from the railroad lends it charm. In the 
summer it is sought by thousands of visitors from all parts 
of the country. Situated in the heart of the Coast Range, this 
region is dotted with beautiful lakes, the largest and best 
known being Clear Lake. Deer and smaller game abound, 
and excellent fishing is had in stream and lake. In the 
mountains there are a number of very fertile valleys where 
agriculture is carried on, while flocks and herds graze on the 
hillsides. The county is popular with automobilists, as the 
roads are good and the scenery grand. Lake County is noted 
for the large number of mineral springs and resorts within 
its borders. The principal of these are Allen, Anderson, Ad- 
ams, Bartlett, Bonanza, Bynum, Highlands, Glenbrook, How- 
ard, Harbin, Hoberg, Blue Lakes, Saratoga, Siegler, Soda Bay, 
Spiers. Newman, Hough, Gordon, Laurel Dell, Crabtree, Witter 
and Castle. The population of Lake County in 1910 was 5,526. 
The area of the county is 1,278 square miles. 

MIDDLETOWN, 16 miles from Calistoga, lies in the fertile 
Loconomi Valley, and is the gateway to many resorts. Har- 
bin, Spiers, Howard, Bonanza Springs, Siegler, Adams, Gordon, 
Hoberg and other springs and resorts lie a short distance to 
the north of Middletown, and are all accessible by good roads. 
From Middletown tw^o main roads diverge, one northwest to- 
ward Kelseyville and Lakeport, the other north toward Lower 
Lake. The former road passes through Glenbrook (13 miles) 
to Kelseyville (11 miles from Glenbrook). Kelseyville is in 
the heart of Big Valley, a rich orchard region. Here roads 
diverge to Highland Springs (8 miles) and thence into Sonoma 
County and to Soda Springs, on Clear Lake. The main road 
continues north to Lakeport (8 miles). 

LAKEPORT, situated on the very edge of Clear Lake, is 
the county seat. Its population in 1910 was 870; m 1900 it 
was 726. The view over Clear Lake from Lakeport is delight- 
ful and to enjoy it to the full a ride should be taken on the 
lake in the launches which can be hired here. Sailboats may 
also be had, and the fishing is excellent. 



228 

CLEAR LAKE is the largest body of fresh water on the 
Pacific Slope. Tt is 25 miles long and from 2 to 9 miles broad. 
The lake surface is 1,325 feet above sea-level. The water is 
very clear and blue. Fertile valleys and rugged mountains 
line the lake shore, upon which are situated many beautiful 
country lioines. Mount Konocti, known locally as "Uncle 
Sam," rises from the margin of the lake, and from its summit, 
4,246 feet above sea-ievel, a commanding view of lake, valley 
and mountain may be had. It is interesting to note, in com- 
parison, that the celebrated Loch Lomond, the largest of the 
Scottish lakes, is exactly the same length as Clear Lake, 
but is not so broad (1 to 5 miles) ; Ben Lomond, which rises 
above it, is not so high as Mount Konocti, its crest being 
only 3,192 feet above sea-level. Opposite Lakeport is the 
broadest part of Clear Lake. 

From Lakeport a road leads west past Glen Alpine into 
Mendocino County. The main road here travels northeast, 
following the lakf^ shore, to Upper Lake (11 miles). From 
here there are delightful short journeys to be taken to Witter 
Springs, lying bej^ond the Blue Lakes (7 miles) ; Blue Lakes, 
Laurel Dell a,nd Saratoga Springs. These places can also be 
reached by road from Lakeport, about 15 miles to the south- 
east. The Blue Lakes and the Laurel Dell Lake are well 
worth visiting, because of the beauty of the scenery in their 
vicinity, although they are of no great size. From these re- 
sorts northwest of Upper Lake, the roads lead into Mendocino 
County. 

From Middletown, the second main road leads past Guenoe 
(5 miles) to Lower Lake (16 miles). Lower Lake is the center 
of a large and prosperous agricultural and stock-raising dis- 
trict. From Lower Lake a road leads through Kelseyville (16 
miles) to Lakeport. Another road from Lakeport passes 
through Upper Lake (11 miles) to Bartlett Landing, on Clear 
Lake (17 miles). From this point roads lead to Bartlett 
Springs, Newman Springs, Hough Springs and Allen Springs; 
another road leads south along the lake to Morrison's Land- 
ing. The road from Lower Lake to Bartlett cannot.be traveled 
except by the lightest kind of vehicles. 



1 8. San Francisco to Santa Rosa 

This is the first stage of the journey through the northern 
coast counties, reached by the Southern Pacific and the North- 
western Pacific Railroad. A Southern Pacific branch from 



229 

Vallejo by way of Napa Junction, runs to Santa Rosa, 
This route follows the same general course as the Sonoma 
Valley route of the Northv/estern Pacific, described later, but 
continues past Glen Ellen, the terminus of the former line, 
and runs thence through Kenwood (4), "Los Guilicos (3) and 
Melitta (2) to the city of Santa Rosa. 

The Northwestern Pacific Railroad begins at Sausalito, 
reached by ferryboat from San Francisco (see Route la). 
Sausalito (described on page 64) is the gateway to Marin 
County, and from here can be reached Mill Valley, Mount 
Tamalpais, Tiburon and Belvedere, besides San Rafael, on the 
main line. A branch line to Cazadcro from Sausalito is de- 
scribed in Section a under this route. 

MARIN COUNTY has an area of ."29 square miles. Much 
of the surface is broken and hil^y, the highest point being 
Mount Tamalpais, 2,608 feet. The county is a peninsula, bor- 
dered on the west and south by the Pacific Ocean and on the 
east by San Francisco Bay. The principal industries are 
dairying and grazing, but fruit-growing and horticulture are 
coming into prominence. The population of the county in 
1910 was 25,114; in 1900 it was 15,702. Marin County received 
its name from an Indian chief who for some years bravely de- 
fended this territory against the Spaniards. 

From Sausalito the main line of the Northwestern Pacific 
Railroad runs through Baltimore Pari: (QV2) and Detour (V2), 
Green Brae (V2) and Schuetzen Park (1) to San Rafael (1). 

SAN RAFAEL, the county seat of Marin County, is a pretty 
residence city, with a population of 5,934 in 1910. (Hotel 
Rafael, A. P. $3.50 up, E. P. $2.50 up; Glen Rose Hotel, E. P.) 
There are some of the finest country homes in California sit- 
uated in San Rafael and in Ross, a short distance to the west. 
The county building is a fine example of architecture of its 
kind. Three miles southeast of San Rafael, on San Fran- 
cisco Pay, is San Quentin, where is situated the California 
State Prison. A stage line runs west from San Rafael to Bo- 
linas. San Rafael is an old mission town, but the mission 
building of San Rafael Archangel, founded in 1817, has disap- 
peared. 

The main route of the Northwestern Pacific runs north 
from San Rafael through St. Vincent's (5), Ignacio (3) and 
Novato (3) to Burden {ZV2), From Ignacio a branch line di- 
verges from the main route, running up the Sonoma Valley. 
This side trip is described in Section b under this route. On 
the border between Marin and Sonoma counties, in the Peta- 
luma Valley, was fought in 1815 a desperate battle between the 



230 

Spanish soldiers and the Indians under Chief Marin, From 
Burdell the railroad crosses into Sonoma County, reaching 
Petaluma HVz). 

SONOMA COUNTY has an area of 1,620 square miles and 
two water frontages, one along San Pablo Bay on the east and 
the other on the Pacific Ocean to the west. The population in 
1910 was 43,394. The main products are hops, grapes, apples, 
prunes, cherries, dairy products and poultry; while peaches, 
pears, plums, apricots are raised at a profit. All of the grains 
and vegetables mature early and command the highest market 
prices. There are over 2,500 acres of berries, and the largest 
berry field in the United States is located in the county. So- 
noma County alone produces 11,000,000 gallons of wine an- 
nually, valued at $2,50'0,000. 

Sonoma County is the home of the world's great horti- 
culturist, Luther Burbank. The climatic and soil conditions 
had great influence with Mr. Burbank in settling the question 
of a location for his life work, and the fact that he selected 
Sonoma County speaks in itself for the general conditions. 
This county produces as much poultry and eggs as all the 
remainder of the state. 

TTie streams and water-courses of Sonoma County are nu- 
merous. Russian River, the largest stream, enters on the 
north, flows in a southeasterly direction for 20 miles, turns at 
Fitch Mountain and finds its way to the largest depression in 
the Santa Rosa Basin, from which it breaks through a gap in 
the Coast Range to the Pacific Ocean. This river gathers the 
waters from three-fifths of the area of the county. The Rus- 
sian River country is popular with summer vacationists, and 
more than 100,000 of them visit Sonoma County every year. 
There are many delightful springs and resorts throughout the 
county which aid in entertaining the summer throng. Added 
to all is the glamor of romance lent by landmarks of former 
days, such as the mission at Sonoma and Old Fort Ross (see 
later) . 

This region is remarkable for its varied history; it has at 
different times been under five different flags — those of Spain, 
Russia, Mexico, California Republic (1846) and the United 
States. Sonoma is an Indian word meaning "Valley of the 
Moon." 

PETALUMA, the first city of Sonoma County reached by 
the main line of the Northwestern Pacific, is widely known as 
the greatest poultry center in the world. (Continental Hotel, 
E. P. 50 cents up; New American Hotel, A. P. $2 up.) The city 
is situated at the head of navigation on the Petaluma River, 
an arm of San Francisco Bay. The population of Petaluma 



231 

and its suburbs is 10.000; by the census of 193 there were 
5,880 people within the corporate limits. The poultry industry 
in Petaluma and the country immediately surrounding is im- 
mense. In 1910 there were 1,000,000,000 eggs and almost 
1.000,000 head of poultry exported from this region. Much of 
the city's prosperity is due to the poultry industry, but there 
are considerable manufactures in the city as well and diver- 
sified farming in the tributary country. TTie factories include 
the only silk mill west of the Mississippi. There is also a 
large winery. 

The city of Petaluma has a system of parks seldom 
equalled by a community of like size. Hill Plaza and Walnut 
Park are two attractive spots in the heart of the city; Oak 
Hill Park is another tract which is being beautified. Kenil- 
worth Park, comprising 67 acres, lies one-half within the city 
and one-half without, on the eastern boundary. Part of the 
park is wooded, the remainder being level, open land. This 
park is a popular recreation ground. Petaluma possesses a 
splendid Public Library building. It is built of native stone 
from the quarries at Roblar, north of Petaluma, and contains 
over 10,000 volumes. The city has also attractive and effi- 
cient public schools. 

From Petaluma, a branch line of the Northwestern Pacific 
runs east through Lakeviile (6) to Donahue (1), in a prosper- 
ous farming region. The Petaluma & Santa Rosa Railway 
Company operates an electric system of 36 miles, with tide- 
water connections, with Petaluma as its southern terminal. 
jThe road runs thence north through Sebastopol to Santa 
Rosa, with a line to Forestville. 

From Petaluma the main line of the Northwestern Pacific 
runs through Corona (2), Ely (2), Penn Grove (1), Cotati (2), 
Wilfred (3) and Bellevue (3) to the city of Santa Rosa. 

The beautiful city of SANT'A ROSA, the county seat of 
Sonoma County, has a population of about 12,000; in IBIO- it 
had 7,817 inhabitants. (Hotel Overton, E. P. $1 up; Occiden- 
tal Hotel, A. P. $2.50 up.) Structurally, the city is progres- 
sive, claiming more steel frame and reinforced concrete 
buildings than any city of its size on the Pacific Coast. The 
county court house here is one of the finest in the state; it 
w^as constructed in 1910 at a cost of $500,000. The postoffice 
building is another imposing structure. There are a dozen 
public and private schools, including the Santa Rosa Sem- 
inary. There is an excellent public library, housed in a fine 
building. The manufactories of the city are numerous, includ- 
ing wineries, fruit canneries and tanneries. 



232 

Santa Rosa has long been tlie home of Luther Bnrbank, 
"the plant wizard," most of whose great horticultural devel- 
opments and discoveries have been made here. On his 
•private grounds he has extensive experimental gardens. 
Santa Rosa holds annuaUy a Carnival of Roses which was one 
of the first fetes established during the revival of the pageant- 
spirit in England and America. The flower battles and the 
garlanded processions of the fiesta are famous. TTie celebra- 
tion includes also a representation of the varied agricultural 
resources of the surrounding territory, choral singing and ath- 
letic games. 

From Santa Rosa a branch line of the Northwestern Pa- 
cific runs southwest through Kenilworth (2) to SEBASTO- 
POL (4). This town of 2,000 inhabitants, situated in the 
heart of the Gold Ridge, one of the finest apple-growing re- 
gions in the West, is widely known as the home of the Grav- 
enstein apple, which reaches its perfection here. The ship- 
ments from Sebastopol in 1910 included 215,000 boxes of ap- 
ples, besides many other agricultural products. Sebastopol 
has excellent schools, a public library and an attractive city 
park. Luther Burbank's principal gardens are situated close 
to the city limits. 

(a) Sausalito to Cazadero 

From Sausalito the Cazadero branch of the Northwestern 
Pacific runs through Corte Madera, Larkspur and Ross to 
SAN ANSELMO, two miles west of San Rafael. This is a 
pretty town with a population of 1,531. It is situated in Ross 
Valley, at the base of picturesque Red Hill (502 feet). Here 
is situated the San Anselmo Theological Seminary (Presby- 
terian) on a detached hill. Seminary Mound. The graystone 
buildings of this institution are substantial and attractive in 
architecture. 

T'he route from San Anselmo runs to Fairfax (3), a beau- 
tiful suburban town, and thence through Alaerneys (4), San 
Geronimo (1), Lagunitas (2), Camp Taylor (3) and Tocaloma 
(3) to Point Reyes Station (5), on Tomales Bay. West of 
here is Point Reyes, a bold promontory, in the shelter of 
which lies Drake's Bay, to which is attached great historic 
interest. Drake's Bay was discovered on June 17, 1579, by 
Sir Francis Drake, the great British sea-fighter. He landed 
and remained encamped here 37 days, refitting his ship, tue 
"Golden Hinde," and stocking it with wood and water. He 
viewed from afar the heights of Tamalpais, but did not as- 
cend the mountain. If he had dene so he would have discov- 
ered San Francisco Bay, the entrance of which he had 



233 

passed, unaware, in a fog". He made note of the giant trees 
(redwoods) which grew here. Drake took possession of the 
country in the name of Queen Elizabeth and called it "New. 
Albion," because of the white cliffs lying toward the sea. It 
was at this time that the first English church service was 
held in America, Master Francis Fletcher, the chaplain, offi- 
ciating. The "Prayer-Book Cross" in Golden Gate Park, San 
Francisco, commemorates the event. Drake left the harbor 
July 23, and sailed to the Southeast Farallones, where he laid 
in a store of seal meat, and on July 29, 1579, continued on, 
his way around the world to England. Early Spanish navigat- 
ors to seek Drake's Bay were Carmenon, who was wrecked 
here in 1594, and Vizcaino, who entered the bay January 8, 
1603. 

A road leads south from Point Reyes down the Olema Val- 
ley to Bolinas Bay, reaching to Olema and Inverness. Bolinas 
is a town situated on the shores of the bay. Close by are Dux- 
bury Point and reef, where many ships have foundered. The 
road continues along the edge of the beach to Willow Camp 
and thence around the base of T'amalpais to Sausalito. Ten- 
nessee Cove and Big Lagoon are attractive inlets along the 
southern Marin coast. 

From Point Reyes Station the railroad continues north 
along the shore of Toma'es Bay through Millerton (4) and 
Marshall (5) to Hamlet (4) and thence inland through Camp 
Pistolesi (2), Tomales (2), Fallon (2) and Clark Summit 
(1), into Sonoma County, reaching Valley Ford (3). This re- 
gion is devoted mainly to dairying. From Valley Ford the 
route continues north through Bodega Roads (3), Freestone 
Q) and Occidental (4) to Camp Meeker (1), a popular summer 
resort. From here the line extends through Tyrone (4j to 
Monte Rio (1). Cazadero, eleven miles from Monte Rio, is 
the end of this line. The coast and river regions about Monte 
Rio, Cazadero and Fort Ross are described under the side 
trip, Santa Rosa to Cazadero. 

(b) San Rafael to Glen Ellen 

The Sonoma Valley line of the Northwestern Pacific Rail- 
road runs from San Rafael through Ignacio (8) to Black Point 
(4), and thence into Sonoma County, continuing through Sears 
Point (5) and McGill (3) to Schellville (4), the first valley 
town. From here is reached, passing through Vineburg (2) 
and Buena Vista (1), the picturesque town of Sonoma (1). 

SONOMA is historically one of the most interesting cities 
in California. The old Franciscan Mission in this town was 
the northernmost and also the last established of all missions. 



234 

The church building and the long row of one-storied buildings, 
with verandas, still remain. The mission was founded July 
4, 1823, and the present church erected the following year. In 
1832 there were 996 neophytes enrolled at Sonoma, or Solano, 
as it was later called; this was its greatest population. After 
secularization, Sonoma declined and ceased to exist as a mis- 
sion community after 1840. At Sonoma another interesting 
landmark is the former military residence of General Mariano 
Vallejo. On the morning of June 14, 1846, the "Bear Flag"' 
revolutionists took possession of Sonoma, pnlled down the 
Mexican ensign and captured General Vallejo. He was im- 
prisoned at Sutter's Fort, Sacramento. About three weeks 
after this the "Bear Flag" forces placed themselves under the 
command of John C. Fremont. Sonoma is the largest ship- 
ping and trading point in the Sonoma Valley and has a pop- 
ulation of about 2,000. There are a number of important man- 
ufactories here. The city hall is an imposing building con- 
structed of cut stone, situated in a plaza of eight acres. There 
are excellent schools and a public library. (Union Hotel, $2.) 

From Sonoma the Northwestern Pacific continues to Ver- 
ano (1), a summer retreat and a center of the poultry indus- 
try, and thence to Boyes Hot Springs (1), a popular health re- 
sort. Opposite the springs is Woodleaf Park. One mile be- 
yond are the Agua Caliente Springs, a large and well-known 
resort. (Agua Caliente Springs Hotel, $2.) Near here are 
the Hooker Falls, amid scenery of surpassing beauty. Eleida 
Springs are in this neighborhood. 

From Agua Caliente the railroad runs through Eldridge (2) 
to GLEN ELLEN (1), the northern terminus of the Sonoma 
Valley line. (Merwyn Hotel, A. P. $2.) Glen Ellen is de- 
lightfully situated among hills and canyons and is popular 
with tourists. Jack London, the author, has a ranch- 
home near here. 

(c) Santa Rosa to Cazadero 

From SANTA ROSA runs one of the scenic routes of 
Northern California, that toward the west through the Rus- 
sian River country to Cazadero; from here the return can 
be made to San Francisco by way of the line along the coast, 
described in section a of this route, Sausalito to Cazadero. 
The trip from Sausalito to Santa Rosa, thence west to Monte 
Rio and south again to Sausalito forms the Triangle Trip of 
the Northwestern Pacific, affording a pleasant one-day side 
trip from San Francisco. 



235 

From Santa Rosa the Cazadero branch runs to Fulton (5), 
where it diverges from the line of the main route. Passing 
through Meacham (2), Trenton (3) and Forestville (2), 
Green Valley (2), Hilton (2) and Rionido (2), all small towns 
In the productive fruit-growing region, the railroad reaches 
GUERNEVILLE (2). This is the principal of the towns of So- 
noma County lying near the coast; the population is 800. It 
is an important dairy, fruit and lumber center; its apples 
are especially fine. There are numerous summer resorts 
along the Russian River here. (Guerneville Hotel, A. P. $2.) 

Among the redwoods near Guerneville is the Bohemian 
Grove, where the annual festival of the Bohemian Club of San 
Francisco is held. There is a natur.al amphitheater in the 
grove where the famous Bohemian play is enacted. 

From Guerneville the railroad runs through Rio Campo 
(3) to MONTE RIO (1). This is one of the most popular 
summer resorts in Northern California. Picturesquely situ- 
ated on the steep hills overlooking the Russian River, Monte 
Rio is justly famous for the variety of natural scenery in its 
vicinity. There is a good bathing beach and the aquatic 
sports include rowing and launch rides on the river. There 
are many delightful walks through the majestic redwood for- 
ests, gathering wild flowers and ferns of many varieties, 
which are found in profusion. In summer there are from 
2,000 to 3,000 people at Monte Rio. 

The line of the Northwestern Pacific runs from Monte Rio 
to Duncan Mills (4), where there is a large lumber industry, 
and thence north to CAZADERO (7). TTiis is another popu- 
lar resort town, well known for the beauty of its surround- 
ings. It is an important dairy center. (Cazadero Hotel, $2; 
Watson's Hotel, $2.) Cazadero is the present terminus, but 
an excellent road leads west to the sea coast and historic 
Fort Ross (11). 

FORT ROSS, reached from Cazadero by stage, is situated 
on one of the most beautiful bits of coast in all California. 
The fort is an old Russian outpost. It was founded in 1812 
and was held by them until 1842, when they voluntarily with- 
drew. Though this territory was claimed by Spain (and 
later Mexico) the Russians m.aintained this military and trad- 
ing post in California despite all protests. The original set- 
tlement contained over fifty houses, of which nine were 
within the stockade. At diagonal corners of the quadrangle 
were erected blockhouses of hewn logs a foot in thickness. 
The quadrangle was about 300 feet square, inclosed by red- 
wood limbers, 8 inches thick and 15 feet high, set upright in 



236 

the ground. There were forty cannon mounted at the fort; it 
was so well protected that it was never threatened by the 
Spanish. The buildings now standing within the stockade 
are the old Governor's house, the barracks, the granary and, 
the Greek chapel (restored). T'he site of Fort Ross is said 
to have been purchased from the Indians for three blankets, 
three pairs of trousers and a few trinkets. The name of Fort 
Ross is a modification of the Spanish "Fuerte de los -Rusos" 
(Fort of the Russians). There are apple trees near the fort 
which were planted by the first settlers in 1812; they are 
still bearing fruit. 

Near Cazadero, and within easy reach by a good road, is 
CAMP DIXIE, a delightful place of summer homes among 
the sequoias and the running streams. The region round- 
about is one of great scenic beauty. 



1 9. Santa Rosa to Willi ts 

This is the continuation of the tour of the northern coast 
counties of California by way of the Northwestern Pacific 
lines. From Santa Rosa the railroad extends to Fulton (5), 
whence the side trip to Cazadero (described in the preceding 
section) is made. FULTON, with a population of 250, is an 
agricultural town, the surrounding region producing hops, 
grapes and prunes. From here the main line continues north- 
west to Mark West (1), near which are the Mark West 
Springs. (Hotel.) After passing througli the town of Wind- 
sor (3) and Grant (4), Healdsburg, in a rich fruit-growing 
region is reached. 

HEALDSBURG, an incorporated city of 3,000 people, is 
attractively situated on the Russian River. The fruit ship- 
ments from here are 1,000 carloads annually; the city has 
large canneries and fruit-packing establishments. Tliere are 
fine public schools and a free library. Healdsburg is a pop- 
ular resort town, with boating, bathing and other summer 
pleasures. (Sotoyome House, $2 up; Union Hotel, A. P. $2, 
E. P. $1.) There are many camping places, resorts and 
country residences among the redwoods and along the river. 
A new branch line of the Northwestern Pacific is being con- 
structed from Healdsburg northwesterly. 

The main line of the railroad runs from Healdsburg 
through Lytton (4) to GEYSERVILLE (4), located near the 
Russian River. Many resorts are visited from. here. Among 



237 

them are Skaggs Hot Springs (9), to the west, reached by 
stage or automobile. The temperature of the springs is 
125 to 3 35 degrees Fahrenheit. Points of Interest near the 
springs are Falls Creek Canyon, the Falls and Redwood 
Canyon. 

The railroad continues from Geyserville to ASTI (6), the 
center of the Italian-Swiss Colony. Tliis company (affiliated 
with the California Wine Associaticn) has at Asti the largest 
wine vineyard in America, consisting of 2,000 acres. Here 
also is the largest wine cistern in the world; the tank, with 
a capacity of .50'0,000 gallons, is cut in solid rock, lined with 
glazed-surface cement. From Asti the route continues to 
Cloverdale (4), an incorporated city of 1,300. 

CLOVERDALE is a great grape and wine center; the 
growing of citrus fruits, especially oranges, is the other prin- 
cipal agricultural industry. (United States Hotel, $2.50.) 
The Russian River flows by the city, making it popular as a 
summer resort. In the vicinity there are numerous mineral 
springs. The best known of these are The Geysers (Hot 
Springs Hotel, $12 up per week), by stage to the east. There 
are points of unusual interest around the Geysers, including 
many strange natural features; there is excellent bathing in 
the swimming lake of mineral waters and good fishing in 
the Pluton River. 

From Cloverdale the main route passes through Preston 
(1) into Mendocino County at Echo (2i^). MENDOCINO 
COUNTY has an area of 3453 square miles. The population 
in 1910 was 23,929. TTie principal industry is lumbering, 
there being over 600,000 acres of redwood in the county, 
mainly on the slopes of the Coast Range, from 10 to 30 miles 
inland. There are besides great acreages of tanbark-oak 
and pine. Fruit-growing, horticulture and general farming 
are carried on in the numerous valleys, and stock-raising 
and dairying are important industries. The mountain and 
coast scenery of Mendocino County is especially beautiful. 
The Russian River, flowing south, and the Eel River, flowing 
north, have their source in this county. There are many 
shorter streams along the coast, most important being the 
Garcia, Navarro, Noyo and Big Rivers. 

From Echo the railroad runs through Cummiskey (2) to 
Pieta (31/4), whence a stage line runs into Lake County to 
Highland Springs, Kelseyville, Soda Bay, Lakeport and Bart- 
lett Springs. From Pieta the main route extends through 
Fountain (IVg) to HOPLAND (3). This is a thriving farming 
town of 1,000 people, situated in Sanel Valley. (Thatcher 
House, $2.) From there a stage line runs southwest to Dun- 



238 

can Springs (Duncan Springs Hotel, $2.50). The route from 
Hopland north follows the course of the Russian River 
through Largo (81/2) and El Roble (5i^) to Ukiah (4i^). 

UKIAH is the county seat of Mendocino County and is 
growing rapidly. The population in 1910 was 2,136. (Occi- 
dental Hotel, $1.50; The Alhambra, $1 to $2.) It is the cen- 
ter of Ukiah Valley, the most thickly settled part of the 
county. This region is devoted mainly to growing fruit and 
grapes. At Ukiah is one of the six International Latitude 
Observatories in the world. The main purpose of the ob- 
servatory is to measure the variations in the position of the 
North Pole. A large fish hatchery is conducted at Ukiah by 
the California State Fish and Game Commission. There are 
many schools and an excellent public library. Ukiah is a 
city of increasing industrial importance. (Hotel Cecille, E. P. 
$1 up.) 

Stage roads lead in several directions from Ukiah. One 
to the east reaches Vichy Springs (Vichy Springs Hotel, $2 
up), Saratoga Springs, Blue Lakes, Laurel Dell Lake, Witter 
Springs and Upper Lake. A road running northeast extends 
through Pomo to Potter Valley, a town of 576 in 1910. This 
stage line also reaches Sanhedrin Heights, John Day's, San- 
hedrin Resort and Hullville. North of Hullville, in Lake 
County, rises picturesque Sheet Iron Moimtain. TTiere is still 
another stage road northwest from Ukiah to Orr's Hot 
Springs. 

From Ukiah the main route extends north to Calpella (6) 
and Redwood Valley (2), in a farming and vineyard region. 
From here the road runs through Laughlin (2) and Ridge- 
wood (7) to Willits (8). 

WILLITS has a population of about 2,000 and is develop- 
ing rapidly. In 1910 the population was 1,153. It is situated 
in Little Lake Valley, where grain farms and apple orchards 
predominate. Willits is a considerable lumber town, as well 
as a farming center, there being several large mills here. 
The pretty Little Lake Valley lies at the foot of the Sanhed- 
rin Range, the highest point of which is Signal Peak (6,800 
feet). 

Willits is the last large town on the line of the North- 
western Pacific Railroad; from here northward two lines of 
this system extend, one of which is being built into Plum- 
boldt County to Eureka, These lines are described in the 
route, Willits to Eureka. Roads run from Willits to Fort 
Bragg, Westport and Mendocino, on the coast, and to 
Hearst and Sawyers, in the mountains to the northeast. 
The most attractive side trip is that to Fort Bragg, described 



239 

herewith; from Fort Bragg may be reached other coast towns 
by stage. 

( a ) Willits to Fort Bragg 

California Western Line 

From Willits the line of the California Western- Railroad 
and Navigation Company rims west to Fort Bragg, by one of 
the scenic routes of the state. After leaving Willits the rail- 
road gradually ascends the mountains to the height of 1,740 
feet, affording a cielightful view of Little Lake Valley, and 
then passes through a tunnel (800 feet in length) and emerge.'^ 
Into tho redwood forests; descending the mountain, the track 
winds back and forth so that at one place it is necessary to 
travel 8 1-3 miles to cover a distance of 1^/2 miles. The train 
then reaches the beautiful Noyo River, along whose banks 
the remainder of the trip is made; the railroad crosses the 
river no less than thirty-two times. The route traverses a 
beautiful camping country and passes Noyo River Tavern, a 
new resort, located at Northspur, among the redwoods and 
on the picturesque Noyo River. Other places on the line are 
Eagle's Nest and Alpine. There is good fishing in the 
Noyo River; hunting in the mountains adds to the at- 
traction of this region for the sportsman. Within three 
miles of Fort Bragg the railroad enters a tunnel (1,128 feet 
in length) from which the tracks follow Pudding Creek, 
in which millions of feet of logs are stored for the sawmills 
at Fort Bragg. 

FORT BRAGG, the largest city of Mendocino County, is 
a rapidly growing community of 3,100 people. (Grand Hotel, 
A. P. $2; Windsor Hotel, A. P. $2.) It is one of the largest 
lumber centers on the California coast, its output being 
mainly redwood. The city is well equipped with educational 
institutions, including a high school; there is also a public 
library. A city park adds to the attractiveness of Fort 
Bragg; nearby on the coast is some beautiful scenery, with 
wave-worn cliffs and sandy bathing beaches. Fort Bragg has 
two harbors and is the terminus of the National Steamship 
Company, whose vessels enter and leave twice each week, 
making the voyage to San Francisco within one night. 

From Fort Bragg there are stage lines running north and 
south along the coast. The road running south from the city 
passes through Noyo (1) to Caspar (6), a lumber center, and 
thence to Mendocino City (5%). This place, with a population 
of 1,200, has large lumber mills. From Mendocino the road 
continues south across Big and Little Rivers to Albion, an- 
other lumber mill town. From Albion a branch of the North- 
western Pacific Railroad runs southeast through South Fork 
to Wendling, in the Anderson Valley. The line is being con- 
structed up this valley to connect with a line from Healds- 



240 

burg. It will run through Philo to Boonville (population 
500), Fairbanks and Yorkville. 

The coast road continues south from Albion through Na- 
varro, on the river of that name, to Greenwood, a lumber mill 
town, and thence through Miller to Manchester, in a rich 
dairy region. Prom here the route crosses Garcia River to 
the town of POINT ARENA. (Point Arena House, $1.) This 
is the principal town on this part of the coast, with a popula- 
tion of 600. It is the center of a prosperous farming and dairy 
region. Nearby, on Point Arena, is a large government 
lighthouse. 

The coast road running north from Fort Bragg is a pic- 
turesque route, the Mendocino Cliffs presenting striking 
scenic effects all along the way. There are many remarkable 
sea caves in these cliffs. The stage road from Fort Bragg ex- 
tends through Cleone (4^^), Inglenook (3) and across the 
Ten-Mile River at Newport, to Westport (10%). This is a 
prosperous lumbering town. (Westport Hotel, $1.50.) 



20. Willits to Eureka 

This route concludes the tour of the northern coast coun- 
ties of California. At the present time the Northwestern 
Pacific is being built through from Willits to Eureka; the 
two cities are now joined by an automobile stage line. 

Two railroad lines run northvv^ard from Willits. The main 
line of the Northwestern Pacific, being connected with the 
system of that company in Humboldt County, runs through 
Outlet (5) and Arnold (5) to Longvale (3%). From Longvale 
a stage road runs to Laytonville, a branch road running 
thence northeast to Covelo, in Round Valley, a great hay- 
producing region. The railroad continues from Longvale to 
Dos Rios (14), the present terminus, but it is being rapidly 
extended to connect with the Northwestern Pacific line in 
Humboldt County. To the north of the line in Round Valley 
is the Indian Reservation. 

A branch of the Northwestern Pacific from Willits runs 
northeast through Rowes (9), Sylvan Dale (1), Encinal (2) to 
Sherwood (l^-^)- This place is in Sherwood Valley, a farm- 
ing region, and is also a center of the lumbering industry. A 
stage road follows the course of the railroad from Willits to 
Sherwood, continuing thence to Laytonville (15), whence a 



241 

branch runs to the town of Covelo, and to Ciimmings (13), 
whence another branch reaches Redwine (5). The main 
route continues from Cummings through Blue Rock (6) to 
Bell Springs (11) and thence into Humboldt County, reaching 
Harris (11). 

HUMBOLDT COUNTY has an area of 3,634 square miles. 
The population (estimated) is 45,000. Lumbering is the prin- 
cipal industry and stock-raising is carried on in most parts 
of the county, whose surface in the main is hilly. Gold is 
mined to some extent along the Klamath and Trinity Rivers. 
Farming and fruit-raising are growing industries, especially in 
the Humboldt Bay country. Humboldt is the largest dairying 
county in the state. The mountains and streams appeal to 
sportsmen and tourists. Flj^-fishing for salmon trout and 
steelhead on Eel River, Mad River and the lagoons offers keen 
sport for the angler. Commercial fishing is an important in- 
dustry in this county, both in the rivers and the ocean. 

From Harris the stage road continues north across a roll- 
ing country to Fruitvale (23) and thence to Dyersville (11) 
on the South Fork of the Eel River. Thence the road follows 
the general course of the Northwestern Pacific Railway up the 
Eel River Valley. The route continues rrom Dyerville 
through Pepperwood (9), and Rio Dell (8), across the Eel 
River to Metropolitan (3) and thence through Alton, (3) For- 
tuna (4), Loleta (3) and Beatrice (6) to Field's Landing, on 
Humboldt Bay, and to Eureka (7). There is a reinforced con- 
crete bridge built in 1911 across the Eel River at Weott cost- 
ing nearly $250,000. It is 1,451 feet long and with approaches, 
2,476 feet; the width is 24 feet. 

EUREKA, the metropolis of Northwestern California, is a 
growing city, with a population of 11,845 in 1910. (Hotel 
Vance, A. P. $2.50 up.) It is the largest place in California 
north of Sacramento and is the westernmost city of continen- 
tal United States, being 20 miles nearer the Orient than any 
other city. It has fine city, county and federal buildings, as 
well as public parks. Its commercial Importance is great and 
with the opening of the Panama Canal and completion of the 
Northwestern Pacific Railroad it will greatly increase. Ulysses 
S. Grant, while an officer in the regular army, was stationed 
here in 1853. 

HUMBOLDT BAY, the best harbor on the Pacific Coast 
between San Francisco and Portland, is 14 miles long and 
from V2 to 4 miles wide. The bay was found by accident by 
gold-seekers, who were trying to find their way to the Trinity 
goldfields, but it is said that Russians had previously an- 
chored here and hunted for sea-otter. Captain Ottinger of the 



242 

ship "Laura Virginia"' named the bay in honor of Baron Alex- 
ander Humboldt, the eminent scientist. The harbor is being 
improved at great cost by the government. The improve- 
ments will be completed within five years. 

Prom Eureka lines of the Northwestern Pacific extend 
north and south. The northern route, extending as far as 
Trinidad, runs through Bay side (5) to Areata i^Vz), a town 
of 1,121 people. (Union Hotel, $1.50 up.) This Is an import- 
ant junction point. A short branch line of the Northwestern 
Pacific is operated between Areata and the town of Samoa, 
on the western side of the bay. 1 he Areata and Mad River 
Railroad also operates a line through Blue Lake (10), a town 
of 507 inhabitants (census of 1910), to Korbel (2), the ter. 
minus of the route. 

The main line of the Northwestern Pacific northward from 
Areata crosses the Mad River to Essex (5) and thence runs 
through Fieldbrook (iVz), Little River Junction (3), Bull- 
winkle (1) and Luffenholtz (3) to TULNIDAD (4). 

Trinidad is situated near Trinidad Head, a high promon- 
tory. The scenery about Trinidad Bay is remarkably pictur- 
esque. Trinidad (Trinity) Bay was discovered by Captain 
Bruno Ezeta on Trinity Sunday, June 11, 1775. From Trinidad 
a road leads north to Orick and thence across into Del Norte 
County to Requa and thence along the coast to Crescent City. 
This is a popular automobile route. 

DEL NORTE COUNTY, as its Spanish name indicates, one 
of the most northerly of the state, had a population of 2,417 
in 1910; almost half of the inhabitants are in the county seat 
and principal seaport, CRESCENT CITY (population in 1910, 
1,114). The principal industries are dairying and lumbering, 
but farming, fruit-growing, salmon fishing and mining are 
other industries which are developing. There is delightful 
scenery in Del Norte County, both along the coast and in the 
interior mountains and valleys, especially along the Smith 
and Klamath Rivers. Crescent City beach, for a stretch of 
five miles to the southward, is one of the finest in the state, 
excellent for bathing, driving or automobiling, as it is firmly 
packed and hard. T'o the north of the city is a rocky and 
rugged coast, with many natural features which attract the 
tourist, such as Pebble Beach, Woody Island and Lovers' 
Rock. The area of Del Norte County is 1,024 square miles. 

The Northwestern Pacific Railroad running southeast 
from Eureka, extends through Bucksport (31/^), South Bay (3) 
and Beatrice (4) to Loleta (3), near the mouth of the Eel 
River. From here a road leads south along the coast through 
Ferndale (5), a town with a population of 905 (census of 



243 

1910), to Capetown (15). Near here is Cape Mendocino, the 
most western point in the United States. The cape is a bold 
promontory, discernible far out at sea. It was discovered 
in 1542 by the Spanish navigator Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, who 
named it in honor of Don Antonio de Mendoza, the first vice- 
roy of New Spain. 

The railway from Loleta leads to Singley (1^/^), whence a 
stage line runs to Ferndale (American House, $1). The main 
route continues through Fortuna (0V2), a town with a popula- 
tion of 883 in 1910, and Rohnerville (2) (Grand Hotel, $1), to 
Alton (2). From here a branch line runs southeast through 
Hydesville (2) to Carlotta (o^/^). From Alton the main line 
extends through the town of Metropolitan (2l^), Canyon Park 
(1), Robinson's Ferry (1), Scotia (3), Elinor (6), Shively (4), 
Bryan (li/4) to South Fork (5i/^). Though this is the present 
terminus of the line, it is being rapidly extended southward to 
connect with the line of the Northwestern Pacific Company 
in Mendocino County. The route will be in operation by 
January 1, 1914. 



2 1 . Western Pacific Lines 

(Feather River Canyon) 

The lines of the Western Pacific Railway in California run 
from Oakland (reached by ferry from San Francisco), to 
Stockton, thence north to Sacramento, thence through Marys- 
ville and Oroville into the Feather River country, one of the 
most picturesque regions of the state. The lines of the 
Western Pacific, before leaving Oroville, cover practically the 
same territory as that traversed by other lines; in order to 
avoid repetition, therefore, only an outline of the routes will 
be given up to that city, the traveler being referred to other 
parts of the book for a general description of the country 
passed through. 

After leaving Oakland, the Western Pacific runs to Hay- 
ward (13), and thence through Niles (10), Livermore (18), 
Midway (15), Carbona (9), and Lathrop (10), to Stockton(lO). 
This general route, with a description of the principal towns 
passed through, including the city of Stockton, will be found 
outlined under Route 24 of this book, San Francisco to Stock- 
ton. 



244 

From Stockton the main line of the Western Pacific runs 
northward through Kingdon (11), Brack (5), Thornton (4), 
Glannvale (-5), Franklin (6) and Cordova (9) to Sacramento 
(5). The character of the country passed through is de- 
scribed in Route 25, Stockton to Sacramento. 

TTie Western Pacific from Sacramento runs to Marysville 
through Del Paso (5), Counsman (7), Pleasant Grove (7) and 
Denniston (14) to Marysville (7). A description of Marysville 
and the surrounding country is given in Route 12, Sacramento 
to Marysville. From Marysville the Western Pacific extends 
through Tambo (7), Craig (7) and Palermo (,6) to Oroville. 
Oroville, and the region about the city, are described in 
Route 12a. 

The line of the Western Pacific continues from Oroville 
up the Canyon of the Feather River through the towns of 
Bidwell (8), Bloomer (5), Las Plumas (3), Berry Creek (3), 
Blinzig (5), Intake (3), Poe (3), and Big Bar, into Plumas 
County, reaching Merlin (9). 

PLUMAS COUNTY has an area of 2,594 square miles and 
has the largest area of timber land in the state, being prac- 
tically one continuous forest. In the numerous mountain 
valleys agriculture is carried on, while mining has been a 
source of much wealth. The county is interesting to the 
tourist because of the magnificence of its scenery, with its 
mountains, forests, lakes and meadows, and above all the 
Canyon of the Feather River. There is hunting for deer and 
bear in the mountains, as well as smaller game. Plumas 
County received its name from the early Spanish name for 
the Feather River, Rio de las Plumas (River of the Feathers). 
The headwaters of this beautiful stream rise in Plumas 
County. Tlie roads of Plumas County are excellent. 

From Merlin, the Western Pacific follows the course of 
the north fork of the Feather River through Belden (12), Rich 
(5), Virgilia (5) and Twain (4) to KEDDIE (7). This grow- 
ing town is the shipping point for Indian Valley, a rich grain- 
producing region. From Keddie a road leads south to Quincy 
(7), the county seat. QUINCY township had a population of 
884 in 1910. This town lies nestled in the American Valley 
in a beautiful situation at the base of pine-clad hills. It is 
six miles from the Western Pacific line, with the Quincy 
Western Railway connecting it with that line at Marston. 
A stage line leads west from Quincy through Spanish Ranch 
to Meadow Valley, at the base of picturesque Spanish Peak; 
from here the road runs southwest into Butte County. An- 



245 

other road leads from Quincy to Nelson Point and Onion Val- 
ley, past Pilot Peak into Sierra County. 

The region north of Keddie is reached by a stage-road 
from there, past Indian Falls to Crescent Mills, in the rich 
Indian Valley. From this i)oint roads diverge to the east and 
west. The eastern road leads to Taylorsville and thence roads 
extend north to Susanville and southeast to Gennessee Valley 
and Red Clover, in Lassen County. The other stage-road 
runs northwest to Greenville, in a rich quartz-mining district. 
Near here are fine warm bathing springs. At Greenville is 
the county high school. From here the road continues 
through Easton, at the foot of Mount Dyer and Mount Keddie, 
to Prattville. This town, in the Big Meadows, is a well-known 
summer resort. The beauty of the scenery and the hot 
springs in the neighborhood attract many visitors. At Long- 
ville, in Humbug Valley, to the southwest on the Oroville 
road, are springs whose waters are valued for their medicinal 
properties. To the northwest, past the town of Chester, is 
Hot Spring Valley, reached in a half-day's travel. Here are 
a great number of rumbling hot springs, with steam issuing 
from them, as well as bubbling hot mud springs. To the 
southwest of the valley are other indications of nearness to 
an active volcano, in the Geysers and a lake of boiling mud 
about ten acres in extent. This region is well worth visiting. 
Above the valley towers Mount Harkness (8,873). 

From Keddie the Western Pacific runs southeast through 
Marston (7), Spring Garden (9), Sloat (5) and Blairsden (8) 
to Clio (4). This is in the lumbering territory. From here 
the celebrated lake region of Plumas and Sierra Counties may 
be i^eached (see Route 12b), as well as the Sulphur Spring 
Ranch, at the head of Mohawk Valley. The springs are both 
warm and cold. The towns of Mohawk and Johnsville, at 
the foot of Eureka Peak, are in this section. 

From Clio the road passes along Castle Canyon through 
Mabie (4) to PORTOLA (3), on the middle branch of the 
Feather River. It was named for the first Spanish governor 
of California. The Sierra Valley Railway (a branch of the 
Nevada-California-Oregon Railway), runs southwest from Clio 
to Plumas Junction (see Route 22). Portola is the northern 
terminus of the Boca and Loyalton Railway. This route be- 
gins at Boca, in Nevada County, on the line of the Southern 
Pacific. From Boca the line runs northward into Sierra 
County, along the Little T'ruckee River, thence through the 
Sardine Valley into the Sierra Valley. Loyalton (population 
983 in 1910) is the principal town in this valley, and is the 



246 

center of the lumber industry. The Sierra County high school 
is situated here. From Loyalton the railroad extends north- 
ward into Plumas County, reaching Beckwith, on the Western 
Pacific, and continuing to Portola, the terminus, a distance 
of 45 miles from Boca. 

South of Portola rises Beckv.ourth Peak. From the town 
the Western Pacific mounts the Sierras, passing Hawley (7) 
and Chilcoot (12) and through the Beckwourth Pass into Las- 
sen County. 

LASSEN COUNTY, in the California highlands, has an 
area of 4,531 square miles; the population in 1910 was 4,802. 
Much of the surface is mountainous, but there are several fer- 
tile valleys where agriculture and stock-raising are carried 
on, the chief being Honey Lake Valley, Big Valley and Long 
Valley. The lakes of Lassen County are numerous, the 
largest being Honey Lake and Eagle Lake. The hunting and 
fishing in the mountains are excellent. The principal indus- 
tries are farming, stock-raising and dairying. The county 
was nained for Peter Lassen, one of General Fremont's guides 
and a famous frontiersman and pioneer. More concerning 
Lassen County is given in the next route. 

T'he Western Pacific line runs northeast from Chilcoot 
through Red Rock (12), and Constantia (4) to Omira (2), and 
thence to Doyle (5). From this place it continues north until 
it crosses the line of the Nevada-California-Oregon Railway, 
where it turns east to Calneva (15). Soon after leaving this 
place it crosses into Nevada, continuing across that state 
to Salt Lake City, Utah. 



22. Plumas Junction to Alturas 

The line of the Nevada-California-Oregon Railway (Sierra 
& Mohawk Railway) runs from Reno, Nevada, into the north- 
eastern counties of California, crossing the line into Oregon 
at Lakeview. This route may be taken from Reno (reached 
by the Southern Pacific Ogden Route) or from a number of 
stations along the Western Pacific line (described above), as 
the two lines run parallel for some distance. Beckwith is 
an important point of transfer from the Western Pacific 
lines to those of the Nevada-California-Oregon Railway, but 



247 

there are other stations at which the change may he made, 
such as Portola, Clio and Doyle. 

The line runs from Reno to Purdy (28), in the northeast 
corner of Sierra Couniy, California, thence continuing along 
the Western Pacific route to Portola, Clairville and Clio, 
the end of this branch. 

From Plumas Junction the main line continues north 
through Chat (4) to Doyle (19). At Doyle the railroad veers 
to the east, while the main county road runs along the west 
side of Honey Lake to Susanville. 

The railway from Doyle, after passing Liegan (6) trav- 
erses the eastern side of Honey Lake Valley, to Amedee (16), 
on Honey Lake. The lake has an elevation of 3,940 feet 
above sea-level. Its surface area is 64,000 acres. The fertile 
Honey Lake Valley lies about it, containing an area of 380,000 
acres. Alfalfa is grown and exported on a large scale and 
fruits and vegetables (including sugar beets) are produced 
as well. This territory was settled early in the history of the 
state and it experienced various political vicissitudes before 
it was incorporated as part of Lassen County. In 1864 it was 
the scene of an armed struggle between the people of Nevada 
and those of Plumas County, California, in which blood was 
shed on both sides. Tlie scenery around Honey Lake is noteci 
for its beauty, the surrounding hills and mountains rising to 
8,000 feet above sea-level. 

AMEDEE is the center of the extensive sheep and wool 
industry covering a wide territory to the north and east. 
There are a number of boiling mineral springs here of 
medicinal value. From Amedee the railroad runs northwest 
to Hot Springs (Purser) (5), where there are more mineral 
springs. East of this place rises Hot Springs Peak (7,000 
feet). From Hot Springs a road runs northwest by way of 
Standish (8) and Johnstonville (9), along the course of the 
Susan River to Susanville (5). 

SUSANVILLE is the county seat of Lassen County and 
is the principal place of that region, having a population of 
1,500. It has electric lights, waterworks, a good sewer sys- 
tem, concrete sidewalks, improved streets, good schools, two 
prosperous banks, a fine fireproof theater and three good ho- 
tels. Tourists are attracted by hunting and fishing" in the 
mountains and waters, near at hand. 

The railroad extends from Hot Springs through the town 
of Murray (6) and Secret Valley (9) to Horse Lake Station 
(131/^). The scenery in the vicinity of Horse Lake is beauti- 



248 

ful, with Fredonia Peak (7,995 feet) towering above. From 
Horse Lake the route runs through the towns of Ravendale 
(3 2) and Termo (5) to Madeline (14). These towns are sit- 
uated on the extensive Madeline Plains, a great stock-raising 
country. To the east of the plains rise McDonald Peak 
(7,954), Hat Peak (7,676), Observation Peak (8,009) and 
Shinn's Peak (7,000). To the north is South Fork Peak 
(7,40'6). 

Ftom Madeline the railroad runs north to Likely, in Mo- 
doc County, crossing the county line some miles before reach- 
ing that place. MODOC COUNTY, in the extreme north- 
eastern corner of California, has an area of 3,823 square 
miles. The population in 1910 was 6,191. Farming is car- 
ried on in the many fertile valleys, as well as dairying and 
stock-raising. About one-half the area is occupied by the 
lava bed section. The county is well known for its big game. 
There is hunting for bear, mountain lions (panthers), wolves, 
deer and antelope. 

From Likely (population 75) the road runs through Bay- 
leys (5) and Meridian (5) to Alturas (9), the county seat. 
ALTURAS had a population of 916 in 1910; at the present 
the population is about 1,200. (Hotel Morse, A. P.) The 
high school is an imposing stone building (cost $40,000) ; 
there is also an excellent public library. Near here is Rattle- 
snake Butte (4,973 feet). From Alturas a road leads south- 
west along the picturesque Pitt River, past the Hot Springs 
to Canby; from there a road leads south, through a mining 
region, to Adin, the chief town of Big Valley, near the Lassen 
County line. The population is 200. From here a road leads 
to Lookout, whence another road leads north across the 
county, through Happy Camp and Straw to Cornell, on Tule 
Lake (Rhett Lake). In this region there are hundreds of 
caves, some of which reach 2,000 feet into the hills; most of 
them contain ice-pits. In one of these are ancient Indian 
hieroglyphics. Near here also are the noted Modoc lava beds 
and Glass Mountains, where one can toss volcanic rocks as 
big as a horse, so light in weight are they. TTie region is be- 
coming popular with tourists. It was in the caverns and 
crevices of this lava bed that the Modoc Indians, under Cap- 
tain Jack, so long resisted the soldiers. Near Tule Lake is 
Clear Lake, to the north of which is the town of Clear Lake, 
while to the east is Steele Swamp. 

From Alturas the railroad continues northeast twenty 
miles to Davis Creek (population 150) on Goose Lake. This 
body of water, with its northern portion in Oregon, is 40 
miles long; its surface is 4,800 feet above sea-level. From 
Davis Creek the railroad leads .along the shore twenty miles 



249 

to Pine Creek (population oOO), on the California-Oregon line. 
The terminus of the route is at Lakeview, Oregon (14). 

From Alturas a road leads east across the Warner Range 
into the fertile Surprise Valley. The principal peaks are 
Eagle Peak (9,934). Warren Peak (9,665), Cedar Peak (8,304), 
Fandango Peak (7,840) and Bidwell Peak (8,531). Surprise 
Valle}"- is 60 miles long. In it are situated the Upper, Middle 
and Lower Alkali Lakes, all of considerable size. Ccdar- 
ville, on Middle Lake, has a population of 500. South of it is 
Eagleville, with a population of 150, and to the north Lake 
City, a town of about the same size, near Upper Lake. Fort 
Bidwell, in the northern part of Surprise Valley, has a popu- 
lation of 200. At the Indian school and reservation here are 
the survivors of the once numerous Piute tribe. Near here, 
at Hoag, are several gold mines of recent development. Cow- 
head Lake (Pelican Lake) is northeast of Fort Bidwell. The 
mountains on the east of Surprise Valley are called the 
Forty-nine Range, or Colman Mountains. 



23. Sacramento to Truckee 

and Nevada Line 

This route is that followed by travelers leaving California 
for the east or by those wishing to reach Lake T'ahoe. The 
latter change at Truckee to the line of the Lake Tahoe Rail- 
way and Transportation Company. 

From Sacramento the railroad (Ogden Route of the 
Southern Pacific) runs through Elvas (3), Benali (3) and 
Antelope (8) into Placer County, reaching Roseville (4). 

PLACER COUNTY embraces a region of varied topography 
including valley, foothill and mountain land. It is about 
100 miles long from east to west and varies in width from 
10 to 30 miles; the total area is 1,395 square miles. The pop- 
ulation of Placer County in 1910 was 18,237. The resources 
are varied and include farming and fruit-raising in the valley 
and foothill districts, lumbering, mining and stock-raising. 
There are extensive granite quarries in the county, producing 
a high grade of stone; these are around Rocklin and Penryn. 
The scenic features of Placer County appeal strongly to 
tourists. In the mountains is scenery which vies in grandeur 
with the Alps; in the eastern section of Placer and El Dorado 
counties is the famous Lake Tahoe, much sought by travelers 



250 

and tourists. In the mountain atreams and lakes the 
angler will find sport fit for a king and the hunter has not 
far to seek to find grouse, valley and mountain quail, doves, 
wild pigeons and deer; if he is out for big game, he may find 
bear and mountain lions in the higher Sierras. Part of Lake 
Tahoe is in the state of Nevada. 

ROSEVILLE, the first place of importance in Placer 
County entered on this route, is a city of 2,608 people. (Hotel 
Barker, E. P. 50 cents up.) It is the center of a fertile farm- 
ing and fruit section, in which plums, cherries, almonds, 
grapes and berries bear abundantly. Roseville is the freight 
terminal of the Southern Pacific Company . and is important 
as a railroad center; the lines of the Shasta Route run from 
this point to the northwest (see Route 12), while the lines 
of the Ogden Route continue northeast. Following this route, 
the traveler passes the little towns of Rocklin (4), Loomis 
(3) and Penryn (3). At Rocklin and Penryn are large gran- 
ite quarries, the finished product ranking in excellence with 
the best produced in the New England states. These towns 
in the foothill orchard region, the soil being for the most 
part decomposed granite, especially adapted to the growing 
of peaches. Near Loomis is the government experimental sta- 
tion for fig raising; fig trees thrive in this region, producing 
large crops and requiring no irrigation. 

After passing Penryn, the town of NEWCASTLE (3) is 
reached. This is one of the largest shipping points for fresh 
fruit in California, peaches and plums being the main ex- 
ports. There are large orchards of other fruits, however, be- 
sides extensive berry fields. The largest cherry trees in the 
world are near Newcastle, one of them yielding over 3, 000 
pounds in a single season. From Newcastle the railroad runs 
to Auburn (5). 

AUBURN, the county seat of Placer County, is a pretty 
little city of 2,376 people (census of 1910), situated in the 
midst of the foothills. (Conroy Pouse. $2 up; Freeman Ho- 
tel, $1.50 to $2.50). The surrounding country is one vast or- 
chard, cherries and plums being especially adapted to the 
soils of this locality. One of the largest model olive orchards 
of the state is here. The city has attractive parks, homes 
and public buildings. The railroad continues beyond Auburn 
to Bowman (3), where there are large berry ranches, and 
thence to Clipper Gap (4), another town in the orchard region, 
with manufacturing interests, including large powder works. 
From Clipper Gap the route extends to APPLEGATE (3), the 
center of another fruit-growing region. Less than a mile from 
Applegate is Walmond, a popular health and recreation resort 



251 

(see advertising pages). Walmond is situated in the hills 
at an elevation of 2,000 feet; for the accommodation of 
guests there are a swimming tank and amusement pavilion 
The surrounding region is picturesque; from Pine Crest, an 
observation platform built in the tallest tree on the highest 
summit of the neighborhood, there may bo had a sweeping 
view of the mountains and valleys for miles in every direc- 
tion. From Applegate the traveler passes through Lander 
(5) to Colfax (3). 

COLFAX, the largest town in this section of the county, is 
a prosperous community in the midst of a fertile fruit-growing 
district. (Gillen House, $1.25 up; Mountain View House, $1.50 
up.) The soil of this region is particularly adapted to the 
raising of Hungarian prunes, Bartlett pears and flame Tokay 
grapes. From Colfax the Nevada County Narrow Gauge Rail- 
road runs northward into Nevada County, reaching Grass 
Valley and Nevada City. This delightful side trip is over a 
route of great scenic attractions. It is described fully in 
Section a under this route, Colfax to Nevada City. Another 
region which is accessible from Colfax by road is the mining 
district to the southeast. One of the principal towns of this 
region is FOREST HILL, on the Forest Hill Divide, an old 
mining and timber district. (Forest Hotel, $1.) Mining, 
once the principal resource of Placer County (as evidenced 
by its name), is still carried on extensively, the production 
of gold in 1910 amounting to almost $260,000. It is estimated 
that the total amount of gold taken out of the county since 
the discoveT of the precious metal at Auburn, May 16, 1848, 
is over $75,000,000. Among the mining towns reached from 
Colfax are Iowa Hill, Westville, Bath, Michigan Bluff and 
Last Chance — all on the Forest Hill Divide. This region con- 
tains much beautiful scenery, with hundreds of rushing 
mountain streams and forests of white, yellow and sugar 
pines, spruce, madronas and several varieties of oaks. Thou- 
sands of sheep fatten in the grasslands of the Divide every 
summer. 

From Colfax the main line continues through Gold Run 
(10) and Dutch Flat (2), places which were formerly mining 
centers. When the legislation against hydraulic mining put 
a stop to the mining industry of this region, the miners 
turned farmers and planted the acres around these towns 
with fruit trees, mainly apples and pears, and now foraa 
prosperous agricultural communities. Beyond Dutch Flat u> 
Alta (2), where there is a beautiful lake, on the shores of whicn 
are many fine summer homes. Owing to the late snows in 



252 

this region, the apple here attains a crispness which rivals 
that of the best fruit on the Pacific Coast. 

Beyond Alta the railroad runs through a succession of 
small mountain towns, most of them established in the early 
days of the state's history; this was the route of one of the 
early emigrant trails from the East. From Alta the route 
extends through Towle (1), Midas (4), Blue Canyon (5), 
Fulda (3), Emigrant Gap (2) and Yuba Pass (4) to Cisco (5). 
(Cisco Hotel, A. P. $2.) After leaving Emigrant Gap the 
railroad enters Nevada County, then runs southward again 
into Placer County, and as far as the city of Truckee runs 
along the boundary line between the two counties. 
From Cisco the route passes through Tam.arack (3), Spruce 
(4), and Summit (6) to Lake View (3). From here can be 
seen beautiful Donner Lake, in Nevada County. It is one of 
the most picturesque alpine lakes of California. In 1846 a 
body of emigrants, known as the Donner party, perished in 
the snow near the shores of the lake, to which the name of 
their leader has been given. The railroad passes over the 
summit of Donner Pass, through which led one of the early 
overland trails to the mines, and Truckee, 11 miles from Lake 
View, is reached after passing through a long tunnel. 

TRUCKEE, a town with a population of 1,600, is situated 
in the Truckee Basin (Nevada County), at an elevation of 
5,818 feet. (New Whitney Hotel, $2.) The chief industries 
in this region are lumbering, stock-raising, ice-cutting and 
dairying. In and around Truckee there are natural ice-plants 
with a producing capacity of 200,000 tons; 1,100 men are em- 
ployed during the ice harvest. Truckee is also a great lum- 
ber center and is an important railroad town. At Hobart 
Mills, near Truckee, there are immense saw mills. 

The Lake Tahoe Railway and Transportation Company 
runs south from Truckee to Tahoe, on the shores of Lake 
Tahoe. This is a side trip from the main line which no tour- 
ist of California should omit to take. Lake Tahoe is one of 
the jewels in California's crown of scenic wonders, making 
the state known abroad as the tourist's paradise. The scen- 
ery of Tahoe and the surrounding region will be found de- 
scribed at length in another section of this book (consult 
Table of Contents). 

The railroad from Truckee continues northeast to Boca 
(8), whence the Boca & Loyalton Railroad runs north through 
Nevada County into Sierra County (see Route 21). (Boca 
Hotel and Annex, A. P. $2.50 up.) The main line from Boca 
runs through Floriston (7), where there are great paper mills, 
to Calvada (6) and thence over into Nevada. The line con- 



253 

linues through Verdi (3) to Reno (11), and thence to the 
east by way of Ogden. 

(a) Colfax to Nevada City 

From Colfax the Nevada County Narrow Gauge Railroad 
runs north across the county line into Nevada County, reach- 
ing Chicago Park (5). NEVADA COUNTY has an area of 974 
square miles. The population in 1910 was 14,955. The prin- 
cipal occupations are farming, dairying, stock-raising, fruit- 
growing and mining. Since 1S49 this county has produced 
over $275,000,0'00 from its gold mines and one-tenth of the 
population is employed in mining. Agricultural resources 
are being developed rapidly. The scenery of the county is 
famous, with its rivers, mountains and forests of pine, fir 
and cedar. There are many lakes in the high Sierras, among 
them beautiful Donner Lake, near Truckee. Copper, silver, 
lead and grraiite are important minerals produced. The larg- 
est nugget ever found in America, valued at $50,000, came 
from Remington Hill, Nevada County. 

The Chicago Park section, near Bear River, is devoted to 
the culture of Bartlett pears, Hungarian prunes and grapes, 
to which its soil is particularly adapted. Prom Chicago Park 
the railway runs through a region of great scenic beauty to 
Grass Valley (10). 

GRASS VALLEY is a growing city of 6,572 inhabitants. 
In 1910 the population was 4,520. It is situated in picturesque 
foothills at an elevation of 2,450 feet. It has attractive public 
buildings and four parks. A $100,000 federal building and a 
structure for the municipal free library are to be erected. 
(Fillmore Hotel, $1.50; New Holbrooke, $2 to $2.50.) 

TTie city was built by its mines, there being 109 gold 
mines within a radius of six miles of Grass Valley. The 
quartz mining is of unfailing interest to the tourist and no- 
where can it be seen to better advantage than in Nevada 
County. The Empire Mine, in Grass Valley, is the oldest con- 
tinuously worked mine in California. The region about the 
city is developing as well along agricultural lines, and dairy- 
ing is becoming an important industry. 

An electric railway runs from Grass Valley, through Gold 
Flat, a busy farming center, to its sister community, NEVADA 
CITY (5). (National Hotel and Annex, A. P. $2 up). This 
is the county seat and has a population of 3,280; in 1910 it 
had 2,689 people. The Court House here is an imposing build- 
ing, costing $100,000. The free public library, with 4,000 vol- 
umes, and the high school are other attractive structures. 



254 

Nevada City has an attractive situation in the hills, at 2,580 
feet elevation; Deer Creek runs through the heart of the 
city. Within a five-mile radius of Nevada City there are 119 
gold mines, 

Nevada City and Grass Valley are the centers of the sys- 
tem of roads by Avhich outlying parts of Nevada County are 
reached. One road from Grass Valley runs through Rough 
and Ready (4) to Smartsville, in Yuba County, whence a 
road runs to Marysville. Another road continues northeast 
from Grass Valley along the San Juan Ridge across the 
south fork of the Yuba River to the towns of North Columbia, 
In a promising agricultural region, and Bloomfield, with a 
population of 497, Near Bloomfield is the largest hydraulic 
mine in the world. Prom here the road continues through 
Moore's Flat, 20 miles from Nevada City, at the northern end 
of the ridge, with an elevation of 4,100 feet. Thence the 
route leads through Graniteville (11), a mining town, past 
Bowman Lake into Sierra County, continuing past Webber 
Lake, to Verdi, over the Nevada border and reaching Reno 
(10 miles from Verdi). 

Other roads lead from Nevada City to Spenceville (pop- 
ulation 146) and to Lowell Hill, EYeneh Corral, Birdville and 
Sweetland, all mountain towns on the San Juan Ridge. 
North San Juan, on this ridge at an elevation of 2,100 feet, is 
an old mining center with a population of 400. 



24. San Francisco to Stockton 

The trip from San Francisco to Stockton may be made 
over four lines of railroad and by two general routes. The 
Southern Pacific line running along the shores of the Bay 
of San Francisco and thence southeastward to Stockton has 
been described in Route 11; as far as Port Costa this follows 
the route to Sacramento, thence it leaves the main line and 
continues through Tracy and Lathrop to Stockton; this latter 
part of the journey is described as a side trip from Port 
Costa to Stockton (Route 12a). The lines of the Atchison, 
Topeka and Santa Fe follow the same general route as the 
Southern Pacific lines as far as Antioch, when they turn to- 
Avards Stockton by a slightly more direct route, running 
through Oakley (6), Knightsen (4), Orwood (6), Middle River 
(1) and Holt (6). 



255 

The southern route to Stockton is followed by the Western 
Pacific and by a line of the Southern Pacific. The two lines 
cover practically the same territory. The distances between 
stations given below are on the Southern Pacific line. The 
first part of this trip is made through Alameda County. 

ALAMEDA COUNTY, one of the richest in the state in 
point of resources, is third in poimlation, being exceeded only 
by San Francisco and Los Angeles Counties. The population 
in 1910 was 2-16,131; at the present time it approaches 350,000. 
The cities of Oakland, Berkeley and Alameda on the shore 
of San Francisco Bay have grown rapidly of late years (see 
Route 2). Besides manufacturing, which is carried on mainly 
in the larger cities, the chief industries of Alameda County 
are stock-raising, miscellaneous farming, fruit growing, viti- 
culture and poultry raising. The land area of the county is 
732 square miles, over three-quarters of which consists of rich 
agricultural bottom lands devoted to intensive farming, diver- 
sified fruit culture and related industries. The rolling hill- 
land is given to grazing and dairying, as well as vineyard 
purposes. The value of horticultural and agricultural prod- 
ucts of the county in 1910 amounted to $22,371,575. The value 
of manufactured products in the same year aggregated $55,- 
636,755. Alameda County is one of the most prosperous coun- 
ties in the state, its population and products increasing stead- 
ily. The county is one of the best supplied with transporta- 
tion facilities, both steam railroad and electric lines reaching 
throughout its area. 

From San Francisco the traveler reaches Oakland by 
ferry, taking the railroad thence through FYuitvale (3), 
Fitchburg (2) and Elmhurst (1) along the base of the foot- 
hills to San Leandro (2). SAN LEANDRO is a prosperous 
town situated in the center of a rich orchard and garden re- 
gion, the cherries of this district being famed throughout the 
state. (Estudillo House. $3.) Every year San Leandro holds 
a Cherry Carnival, of more than local note. Besides the agri- 
cultural development, San Leandi"o has large manufacturing 
interests. After leaving San Leandro the route runs through 
Estudillo (1) and Lorenzo (1) to Hayward (3). 

HAYWARD is at the base of the foothills, at the entrance 
to the small but fertile Castro Valley; the elevation of the 
city is about ]00 feet above sea-level. (HayAvard Hotel, $2 
up; Villa Hotel, $2.) The population in 1910 was 2,746, but 
the city has undergone a steady growth since then, the pres- 
ent population being over 4,000; the surrounding territory is 
thickly settled. Hayward lias modern conveniences; a free 
library, and a high school situated in a campus of twelve 



256 

acres. The city is connected with Oakland and Berkeley by 
one of the finest automobile boulevards in the state, besides 
other roads, steam and electric railways. (See Route 2a.) 
The Hayward district contains many productive orchards, 
the fruits thriving best being the cherry and apricot, but 
a large variety of other deciduous fruits as well as berries 
are produced. At Hayward is situated one of the 
biggest fruit canneries in California. Truck gardening and 
poultry raising are other industries which go to make up the 
prosperity of Hayward. 

From here the railroad continues through Halvern (4) to 
DECOTO (3), the center of another large fruit and vegetable 
region. The town is coming into prominence as a suburban 
residence district and as a site for factories. Beyond De- 
coto the railroad reaches Niles (3). 

NILES is a city pleasantly situated at the base of the foot- 
hills on the eastern bay shore. (Niles House.) There are a 
number of large industrial concerns located in the city and 
the growth of population has been rapid. The surrounding 
country is a fertile farming region. The large flower farms 
and nurseries about the city please the eye. Transportation 
facilities are furnished by the Southern Pacific and Western 
Pacific Railroads. A Southern Pacific line from Niles runs 
south to San Jose (described later in the route, Oakland to 
San Jose), while the lines of the railroad running toward 
Stockton turn to the northeast. The traveler passes through 
the Niles Canyon, a narrow valley of great scenic beauty,- 
and through the town of Farwell (3) to Sunol (4), or Sunol- 
glen. (Hazel Glen Hotel, A. P. $2.) From here the route 
extends to PLEASANTON (5), situated in a section known 
as the Amador Valley. The population in 1910' was 1,254. 
(Rose Hotel, $2.) The town is growing as a residence place; 
the surrounding country is a fertile district, producing alfalfa, 
hay, sugar beets, wine and dairy products. To the west of 
Pleasanton is the home of Mrs. Phoebe Apperson Hearst, 
known as Hacienda del Pozo de Verona; the residence is a 
fine example of Moorish architecture and is surrounded by 
extensive and well-kept gardens. From Pleasanton the rail- 
road runs through Eliot (2) to Livermore (4). 

LIVERMORE, the principal community in the beautiful 
Livermore Valley, is both a city of homes and a manufactur- 
ing center. (Commercial Hotel, $1.50 up; Washington Hotel, 
$2.) There are numerous attractive residences. The public 
buildings would do credit to a much larger city and include 
a model high school, besides other schools. The Livermore 
Valley is one of the most fertile parts of Alameda County 
and is an important wine-growing district. The hay produc- 



257 

lion of the valley is large, and the varied character of the 
soil makes a diversity of other crops possible. A branch of 
the Southern Pacific runs northward from Livermore into the 
picturesque San Ramon Valley, reaching Martinez and Port 
Costa; this region is described in preceding pages. (See 
Route 11 b.) From Livermore the main route continues 
through Altamont (8) and Midway (8), entering San Joaquin 
County, reaching Tracy (8). 

SAN JOAQUIN COUNTY has an area of 1,448 square miles 
and lies across the lov/er end of the San Joaquin Valley. 
Much of its surface is rich delta land and the agricultural 
products are greatly diversified in character. Ten years ago 
this was the leading grain county in the west, but of late 
years there has succeeded a system of mixed and special 
agriculture. The county has 400 miies of navigable water- 
ways. The roads are numerous and well-built. The popula- 
tion of San Joaquin County in 1910 was 50,751; increasing 
from 35,452 in 1900. 

TRACY is the principal railroad transfer point of the 
Southern Pacific system on the Pacific Coast. The surround- 
ing region is devoted mainly to the raising of grain and hay. 
From Tracy the route runs througii Banta (3) to Lathrop (8), 
another busy junction point. The line continues on througii 
French Camp (4) to Stockton (5). 

STOCKTON, the "Gateway City," is situated near the 
San Joaquin River, at the head of tidewater navigation. In 
1773 the site of the city was visited by Father Crespi, one 
of the first Franciscan missionaries. The city was founded 
in the early days, when it was an important depot of supplies 
for the mines. It has shown a steady growth, the population 
in 1910- being 23,253; in 1900 it was 17,506. Stockton has al- 
ways been important as a manufacturing city and is pro- 
gressing rapidly along industrial lines. Stockton was named 
in honor of Commodore Stockton, whose squadron operated 
on the Pacific Coast during the Mexican War. 

Stockton is the county seat of San Joaquin County, and 
the splendid granite Court House, situated in a square at the 
head of the channel, is a point of interest. A block from 
the Court House is the public library. TTie postoffice build- 
ing (Market and California Streets) is another imposing 
edifice. The stately high school, in the northern part of 
the city, is one of the finest in the state and is surrounded 
by ten acres of athletic fields and playgrounds. Nearby, with, 
the main entrance on Park street, are the artistic grounds 
and substantial buildings of the State Hospital for the Insane, 
housing 2,000 patients. Stockton possesses a dozen fine pub- 



258 

lie parks; warm mineral baths, furnished with water from 
a great spring, are within the city limits. Stockton is only 
23 feet above sea-level. 

The Stockton Channel extends into the heart of the city, 
the boat pier fronting on Eldorado street. Large steam and 
sailing vessels run from here to San Francisco, 90 miles by 
waiter, and to other bay points. A great number of schooners, 
barges and launches, known as the "Mosquito Fleet," follow 
the same route, carrying to market the produce of the rich 
"Netherlands" farms. A trip into this region near Stockton 
is instructive and interesting, as it is unique in this country. 
The delta of the San Joaquin is divided into a great number 
of islands, most of them enclosed by levees. This is fertile 
land, much of it devoted to horticulture and dairying. The 
asparagus plantations are of particular interest. Many of the 
delta farms, below the river level, are irrigated through gates 
in the levees. 

Stockton is a great railroad center, having four transcon- 
tinental lines and various branches leading to mountain re- 
sorts and scenery. Stockton is an excellent point of depart- 
ure for the Sierra Nevadas and the famous old mining region 
of the "Mother Lode." Many attractive side trips into these 
districts are described in later pages, most of them being 
made over lines branching from the main route of travel in 
the San Joaquin Valley north or south of Stockton. 

The Stockton Terminal & Eastern Railroad runs 17 miles 
to the east from the city, and will soon be extended to Jenny 
Lind, in the Calaveras mining region. Tlie present terminus 
is Bellota, in a rich agricultural district. The landscape is 
dotted with great white oak trees, giving the appearance of 
an English park. A branch of the Western Pacific Railroad 
runs southwest to Tesla (36), where there are large coal 
mines. The Calaveras Big Tree Grove can be reached by an 
excellent auto route from Stockton. 

A branch of the Southern Pacific runs northeast to Peters 
(13), whence a line continues through Waverly (6), across 
the northeast corner of Stanislaus County to Milton (6), in 
Calaveras County. It is a shipping point for Copperopolis, 
where are located the properties of the Union Copper Com- 
pany. A road leads from here to Angels. Twelve miles from 
Milton and Copperopolis is Hodson, where is located the larg- 
est low-grade gold deposit known. The Royal Mine here 
possesses the largest number of stamps under one roof in the 
world. 

T'he hotels of Stockton are: The Stockton, E. P. $1.50; 
Hotel Clark, E. P. $1 up; Imperial Hotel, A. P. $2.50, E. P. $1 
up; Yosemite Hotel, A. P. $2.50 up, E. P. $1 up. 



25. Stockton to Sacramento 



This route, connecting the two large valley cities of Cal- 
ifornia, can be made by the Southern Pacific, the Western 
Pacific or the Central California Traction Company (elec- 
tric), all following the same general course. The distances 
between stations given below are those on the Southern Pa- 
cific line. 

The railroad runs north from Stockton through a rich 
farming section past the towns of El Pinal (2), Castle (4) and 
Armstrong (3) to Lodi (3). LODI, the second city of San 
Joaquin County, is the center of one of the largest grape- 
growing and orchard districts of the ^tate. (Hotel Lodi, 
A. P. $2.) The population in 1910 was 2,697, but the growth 
of recent years has been rapid, the population being more 
than 3,000. The public buildings include an attractive free li- 
brary, high school (cost, $150,000) and two grammar schools. 
The city owns its water and light systems. A feature of the 
city is the Welcome Arch, a graceful stone entrance way to 
the main street; the arch is architecturally impressive, the 
top containing niches like those of the missions, in which 
swing large bells; the figure of a California bear surmounts 
the whole. The surrounding region is particularly fertile and 
has a diversified production; the leading agricultural product 
shipped from Lodi, however, is the flame Tokay grape, for 
which the city is known abroad. There are a number of in- 
dustrial establishments of importance in Lodi. Excellent 
roads lead from here in all directions, one of the most fa- 
mous scenic drives being the palm-bordered boulevard lead- 
ing through the Christian Colony to the northeast and the 
town of Lockeford, and thence into the Sierras. The Valley 
Spring branch of the Southern Pacific leads east from Lodi 
Into Calaveras County, offering an attractive side trip to the 
tourist, described in Section a under this route. A short 
railroad branch from Lodi runs west to Woodbridge (2). The 
main route continues north through Acamipo (3) and Forest 
Lake (3) to Gait (3), in Sacramento County. 

SACRAMENTO COUNTY is rich agriculturally, as it has 
the climate, soil and water necessary. Fruit growing, both 
of the deciduous and citrus fruits, is one of the great indus- 
tries. Thousands of carloads of fresh fruit are shipped and 
many canneries export large quantities of the preserved prod- 
ucts. Pears, prunes, plums and peaches are the principal 
fruits. Viticulture and the growing of alfalfa and grain are 



260 

important. Some of the largest hop jfields in the country are 
along the Sacramento, American and Cosumnes Rivers. 
Dairying, stock-raising and mining are other leading indus- 
tries of Sacramento County. The area of the county is 983 
square miles; the population in 1910 was 67,806, but since 
then it has increased greatly. 

GALT is the center of a great grape-producing region and 
has several wineries. (Gait Hotel, A. P. $2.25.) Prom here 
the lone branch of the Southern Pacific runs northeast into 
the mining regions of Amador County (see Section b). The 
main line continues northwest through the small farming 
towns of Amo (5), McConnell (2), Elk Grove (4), Florin (6) 
and Brighton (4) to Sacramento (6). (See Route 11, San 
Francisco to Sacramento.) 



(a) Lodi to San Andreas 



From Lodi the Valley Spring branch of the Southern Pa- 
cific Railroad runs eastward into a picturesque district of the 
Sierras. Extending through the foothills, the towns of Locke- 
ford (8) and Clements (4) are passed, and the line runs into 
Calaveras County, reaching Wallace (6), just over the boun- 
dary line. The route is thence through Burson (5i^) to Valley 
Springs (4), the terminus. 

From here a stage line runs east to SAN ANDREAS (pro- 
nounced San Andrays), the county seat of Calaveras County. 
The quaint old town is built on the side of a gulch leading 
toward the Calaveras River. (Metropolitan Hotel.) It was 
founded in the days of the gold rush and once had a popula- 
tion of about 5,G'00. Its population in 1910 was 1,120. From 
San Andreas stage roads run in several directions. One 
reaches West Point, on the North Fork of the Mokelumne, 
while another extends through MOKELUMNE HILL (St. 
Leger Hotel, $1.25), once a large mining town, and crosses 
the river into Amador County. 



(b) Gait to lone 



From Gait, the lone branch of the Southern Pacific extends 
northeast through the towns of Conley (5%), Cicero (3) and 
Clay (IVz), and crosses into Amador County at Carbondale. 

AMADOR COUNTY has an area of 601 square miles, with 
a population of 9,086 in 1910. The principal industry is gold- 
mining, there being ten large quartz mines at present operat- 



261 

ing successfully within the county. Stock-raising and farming 
are industries growing in importance. Most of the surface 
of Amador County consists of rolling hills, running up to 1,500 
feet elevation. There are a number of medicinal mineral 
springs of recognized value in different parts of the county. 
Hunting and fishing are excellent, and to the lover of scenery 
the mountain lakes, valleys and canyons of Amador make a 
strong appeal. 

From Carbondale the railroad runs to lONE (6), a consid- 
erable mining center. (Commercial Hotel, $2; lone Hotel, 
$2.) From here the lone Central railroad runs through Ran- 
lett (5) to Mantell (7). A road available for auto travel fol- 
lows the same general course of the railroad from Gait. 
From Mantell roads lead to Sutter Creek (American Ex- 
change, $2 up), an old mining town, and JACKSON, the 
county seat. (Globe Hotel, $2; National Hotel, $2 to $2.50.) 
Jackson had a population of 2,035 in 1910. This place is one 
of great historic interest, closely associated as it was with the 
early history of California in the "days of gold." Jackson was 
at one time the home of Bret Harte, and it was in this neigh- 
borhood that Joaquin Murieta, the noted brigand, began his 
dramatic though dishonest career. 

A road leads south from Jackson to Mokelumne Hill, an- 
other old mining center in Calaveras County. Another road 
leads northward through Sutter Creek, Amador City (Amador 
Hotel; Imperial Hotel), Drytown, Plymouth and Enterprise, 
across the Cosumnes River into El Dorado County. In the 
hills around Jackson are the settlements of Pine Grove, De- 
fender, Volcano and Electra. 



26. Stockton to Fresno 

East Route 

The trip from Stockton to Fresno begins the journey 
up the San Joaquin Valley, the inland way to Los Angeles 
being southward through Bakersfield, a general course which 
the lines of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe follow as well, 
both railroads passing through the principal cities of the val- 
leys. The general character of the country traversed is the 
same. There is another route besides the one described here- 
with between Stockton and Merced; this is outlined as a 
side trip from the present one, under Section a. From this 
a very important scenic route runs into the old mining 



262 

country of California known as the "Southern Mines." This 
side trip is described in Section b under this route, with the 
caption, Oakdale to Sonora. The West Route between Stock- 
ton to Fresno, that is, the line running along the western side 
of the San Joaquin Valley, is described in Route 27. 

The main railroad route extends south through French 
Camp (5) to Lathrop (4), the junction point whence the line 
runs to Oakland by way of Tracy and Niles (described in 
Route 24). From Lathrop the line runs through Manteca (4), 
to Ripon (6), the center of a large agricultural region. The 
views of the Stanislaus River about Ripon are notable. From 
Ripon the river is crossed and the traveler is in Stanislaus 
County. 

STANISLAUS COUNTY, lying at the northern end of the 
great San Joaquin Valley, is enclosed between the Sierra 
Nevadas on the east and the Coast Range on the west. The 
valley land is extensively cultivated in grain, fruit and vines. 
The area of the county is 1,450 square miles. The population 
is growing rapidly, the census of 1910 giving 22,522 inhabit- 
ants; in 1900 there were 9,550, The main roads of the county 
are level and in excellent condition. From Ripon the rail- 
road continues through Salida to the city of Modesto (7). 

MODESTO, the county seat of Stanislaus County, is a 
prosperous and fast-growing city. (Tynan Hotel, A. P. $2.50 
up.) The population in 1912 was 6,300; by the census of 1910 
it was 4,G'34, while in 1900 there were 2,024 inhabitants. Most 
of the city's prosperity has been due to the development of 
the vast and fruitful region surrounding it, thousands of acres 
being under irrigation. Modesto has attractive public build- 
ings, most noteworthy being the schools. Their architecture is 
as fine an adaptation of the Spanish mission style to modern 
public structures as can be found in the West. The McHenry 
Library, a new and handsome structure, contains over 5,000 
volumes; branch libraries are established in all the towns 
and rural communities of Stanislaus County. The Court 
House is another public building of note, Modesto has six 
public parks, with a total area of 48 acres. Popular picnic 
grounds are along Tuolumne River and Dry Creek; the latter 
flows into the larger stream at the city limits. The Tuolumne 
is of commercial value as well, as steamers can ply to the 
Tuolumne River bridge, scarcely half a mile from the busi- 
ness center, for seven months of each year; when the river is 
navigable there is considerable commerce between Modesto 
and San Francisco by boat. The Tuolumne is the largest 
stream in rhe valley, next to the San Joaquin River. The 
Modesto Interurban, a gasoline railroad, connects the city 



263 

with Empire, five miles to the east on the line of the Santa 
Fe. The Tidewater and Southern Electric road runs frequent 
cars to Stockton. 

From Modesto the main route continues south to Ceres (4). 
This little town is the center of a populous district in the irri- 
gated lands. It has an excellent high school, as well as other 
educational facilities. The population is 500. From here the 
railroad continues through Keyes (4) to Turlock (6). 

TURLOCK is one of the fastest-growing towns of the San 
Joaquin Valley. The population is now 3,000, though in 1910 
there were but 1,573 people here; the city is scarcely ten 
years old. Turlock is surrounded by a large number of small 
farms, all part of the great Turlock irrigation system. From 
this region are shipped annually many carloads of canteloupes, 
sweet potatoes and other farm products. The city has a good 
sewer system, and the attractive high school is situated in a 
park. East of Turlock. on the Santa Fe, are the thriving 
towns of Hughson and Denair. From Turlock the main route 
enters Merced County, reaching Livingston (10). 

MERCED COUNTY embraces a fertile section lying mainly 
in the San Joaquin Valley, its chief agricultural products being 
alfalfa and fruits. The dairy industry is very large. There 
are two great irrigation systems in Merced County. The area 
is 1,995 square miles. In 1910 the population was 15,148; in, 
1900 it was 9,215. Merced County has excellent level roads. 
After passing through the town of Delhi, the Merced River is 
crossed. This famous river gave its name to the county, the 
original Spanish name being "Rio de Nuestra Senora de la 
Merced" (River of Our Lady of Mercy). As is well known, 
the waters of this river head in the world-famous Yosemite 
Valley. 

A mile from the Merced River is Livingston (10 miles from 
Turlock), in the center of an alfalfa and general farming re- 
gion. After passing Arena, the town of Atwater is reached, 
seven miles southeast of Livingston. This is the home of the 
well-known Merced sweet potatoes, of which hundreds of car- 
loads are shipped from this point annually. There are also 
thousands of acres of peach orchards and vineyards about At- 
water. From Atwater the route continues to the city of Mer- 
ced (7). 

MERCED, the county seat, had a population of 3,102 in 
1910; in 1900 it was 1,909. (Central House, $2; Cosmopolitan 
Hotel, $2.) The city has a Court House (costing $100,000), sit- 
uated in a pretty park of four blocks. The high school and 
grammar schools are large, handsome buildings. At Merced is 



264 

the central library of the Merced County Free Library System, 
with over 4,000 volumes. 

From Merced the Yosemite Valley Railroad runs to El Por- 
tal, at the entrance of the Yosemite National Park. This trip 
will be found outlined in Section c under this route, Merced to 
El Portal. The wonderful Yosemite Valley, the greatest scenic 
attraction of California, is treated separately (consult Table 
of Contents). The main route continues from Merced through 
Athlone (10) to Minturn (6), in Madera County. 

MADERA COUNTY extends from the center of the rich 
San Joaquin Valley eastward far into the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains. From the foothills to the San Joaquin, a distance 
of about forty miles, the land is extensively cultivated and is 
exceptionally well watered. In the mountains and foothill 
country lumbering, stock-raising, mining and quarrying are 
the principal industries. The area of the county is 2,112 
square miles. The population in 1910 was 8,368; in 1900 it 
was 6,364. Much of the county has long been given over to 
the large ranches, ranging from 5,000 to 10'0,000 acres. TTiese 
are fast breaking up and giving place to the settler. More 
than 138,000 acres in three of these ranches were subdivided 
in 1912. The new State Highway passes through Madera 
County and the city of Madera from northwest to southeast. 
It follows closely the line of the Southern Pacific Railroad and 
is now nearly complete. 

After passing Minturn the railroad continues to Berenda 
(10), whence a branch line of the Southern Pacific runs into 
the mountains to Raymond, beyond which roads lead to Ah- 
wahnee and Wawona, mountain resorts, and to the Yosemite 
Valley. This side trip, of great scenic attraction, is treated 
in Section d under this route. 

From Berenda the main route reaches the city of Madera 
(8). The Santa Fe runs about three miles to the north of the 
city, and nearby on this line are the prosperous towns of 
Storey and Borden. 

MADERA is the county seat of the administrative division 
of the state to which it gave its name. In 1910 the population 
was 2,404, but now it reaches 3,500. The Madera County Court 
House is a handsome building, situated in large grounds. 
There are several excellent schools, including a union high 
school and a new elementary school which is considered one 
of the model school buildings of the country. The city is in- 
creasing in commercial importance, its lumber industry being 
large. The name Madera in Spanish signifies "timber," the 
town being originally surrounded by groves of trees. 



265 

From Madera stage routes run to the mountain towns and 
resorts. The roads in the mountainous districts have often 
sharp turns and the grades are steep, but are accessible to 
automobiles. One road leads northeast from Madera to the 
town of Coarse Gold, which is also reached by another road 
running to the south of this. TTie latter route passes through 
Sesame to O'Neals, a busy little town in the center of a fertile 
and productive district. From O'Neals a road continues to 
Coarse Gold, and thence eight miles to Fresno Flats, whence 
a road continues to Ahwahnee, from which Wawona and Yo- 
semite Valley can be reached (see Section d under this route). 
Another road from O'Neals leads northeast through the settle- 
ments of Magnet and Gold to North Fork, This town is the 
center of a stock-raising and orchard region. Nearby, on 
the north fork of the San Joaquin River, is an attractive health 
and pleasure resort. 

From Madera the railroad continues southeast through the 
town of Borden (3) and crosses the San Joaquin River into 
Fresno County, reaching Herndon (9). 

FRESNO COUNTY, including its vineyards, is the greatest 
fruit-producing section of the state. The county has an area 
of 5,950 square miles. The population in 1910 was 75,657; in 
1900 it was 37,862. The irrigation system of Fi-esno County is 
the largest of any in California, the water coming from the 
Kings River. Fresno leads the world in the production of 
raisins. Calmyrna figs form another well-known export. Wine 
and olive oil are important products. The lumber industry is 
large, and considerable mineral resources await development. 
The Coalinga oil-field, in Fresno County, is one of the richest 
in the world. "Fresno" in Spanish signifies "white ash," the 
name having been given to the county because of the mountain 
ash growing in the upland region. From Herndon the railroad 
passes through Muscatel (4i/^) to the city of Fresno (5i/^). 

FRESNO is the largest city in the central San Joaquin Val- 
ley and is growing rapidly. Once a sheep pasture, in 1910 
the population reached 24,892; in 1900' it was 12,470. Consid- 
erable manufacturing has been brought about by the drying 
and canning of fruit here, and the processes employed in these 
industries, especially the raisin industry, are new to most 
tourists, Fresno is a well-built city and has many points of 
interest to visitors, A number of fine parks and public play- 
grounds make the city attractive. Roeding Park, owned by 
the municipality, is a large tract northwest of the city 
(reached by Roeding Park and Cemeteries car). Zapp's Park 
is a holiday resort at the end of the Blackstone car line. 
Recreation Park, passed on the way to Sunnyside, is a beau- 



266 

tiful tract open to the public. Connected with Fresno by a 
boulevard, lined with eucalyptus, oleanders and palms, is 
Kearney Park, 11 miles to the west. This drive is very at- 
tractive to automobilists. TTie elaborate grounds of the park 
cover 240 acres, and the entire estate of 5,182 acres is the 
property of the University of California, deeded to that in- 
stitution by its former owner, Martin Theodore Kearney. 

The hotels of Fresno are the Grand Central, E. P. 50 cents 
up; California, A. P. $1 up, E. P. 50 cents up; Sequoia, E. P.; 
Hughes, A. P. $2.50 up; Commercial, E. P.; Fresno. 

The public buildings of Fresno include many notable struc- 
tures. The imposing County Court House, fronting K street, 
is situated in an extensive park (bounded by K, M, Tulare 
and Fresno streets). The dome, at an elevation of 156 feet, 
is open to visitors (secure key at the elevator); the view 
from here over the valley is comprehensive. The new City 
Hall (J street, between Merced and Fresno), the high school 
(Tuolumne, Stanislaus, O and P streets), and the State Nor- 
mal School (on University avenue, in the northern part of 
the city) are other important public buildings. TTie free 
public library contains over 14,000 volumes. The Govern- 
ment Building (postoffice) is situated opposite the Court 
House square at Tulare and K streets. A point of consider- 
able interest in Fresno is the monument which marks the 
geographical center of California. It is within the corporate 
limits in the western part of the city, in the block bounded by 
Kern, Inyo, C and D streets. 

There are many attractive side trips to be made from 
Fresno. Among the shorter ones are the drive to Kearney 
Park, mentioned above, and to the Riverside Club House, on 
the San Joaquin River, 8 miles north of the city (drive north 
on K street, turning into Vaai Ness at Nielson avenue, con- 
tinuing to the river). A delightful five-mile ride through the 
vineyards may be had by taking the Sunnyside car at the 
Southern Pacific depot or on Tulare street east of the depot. 
A branch line of the Southern Pacific runs northeast from 
Fresno to Friant, near the foothill district. This branch leads 
through a continuous garden of vineyards and orchards past 
Maltermoro (6), Las Palmas (1) and Tarpey (2) to CLOVIS 
(3). This town has a population of about 2,000. Timber is 
brought down to Clovis from the mountains in V-flumes and 
is here converted into lumber. T'he line continues through 
El Prado (6) to Friant (6), near the upper San Joaquin. 
Roads lead from El Prado into the foothill district. 

The side trips from the route just given are herewith de- 
scribed. They are (a) Stockton to Merced, via Oakdale, (b) 



267 

Oakdale to Sonora, (c) Merced to El Portal, (d) Berenda to 
Raymond. 

(a) Stockton to Merced via Oakdale 

The line of the Southern Pacific Railroad runs from Stock- 
ton eastward to Peters (13), whence the branch to Milton, 
Calaveras County, extends into the foothills (see Route 24). 
From Peters the main line runs southeast to Farmington (5), 
near the Sierra foothills. This section of the state is known 
for its vineyards of Tokay grapes; near Farmington is one 
of the largest cherry orchards in the world, 100 acres in ex- 
tent. From Farmington the railroad continues to Cometa (6) 
and thence into Stanislaus County, reaching Oakdale (8). 

OAKDALE is an important shipping point situated on the 
Stanislaus River, receiving its name from the live oaks of the 
surrounding region. (Hotel Stanislaus.) It is pleasantly lo- 
cated on a plateau overlooking the river and valley. The 
population of the little city is 1,800, and the growth of the 
place is assured by its strategic position on several railroad 
lines. The Sierra Railroad runs from Oakdale to Sonora, 
Jamestown and Angels, in the old mining region of California. 
T'his is a delightful side trip and is described in Section b 
below. A branch of the Santa Fe, connecting with the main 
line at Riverbank also terminates at Oakdale. The region 
about the city is being extensively developed by a great ir- 
rigation system, making it one of the most fertile parts of 
the state. Oakdale has a number of important manufacturing 
interests, a high school and other excellent educational facili- 
ties. An automobile stage line runs twice daily through the 
towns of the Oakdale district, reaching the historic town of 
Knight's Ferry, to the east. 

KNIGHT'S FERRY was named for Captain Knight, a 
hunter and trapper, who followed Fremont past this site in 
1844. He located here in 1849 and established the first ferry 
across the Stanislaus. Bret Harte and Mark Twain visited 
the town in the early days, when it was thronged with miners 
and gamblers, the latter furnishing amusement for those on 
their way from Stockton to the "Southern Mines.". In 1854 
General U. S. Grant was entertained at Knight's Ferry by 
his brothers-in-law, the Dent brothers, who owned the ferry 
after the death of Captain Knight. The old fig trees under 
which he loved to sleep are still pointed out; they bear yearlj"" 
their three crops of Mission figs, just as they did long ago. 
From 1861 to 1871 Knight's Ferry was the county seat of 
Stanislaus County; the only relics of this former pre-eminence 
are the ruins of the old County Court House. Knight's Ferry 



268 

today is a community of comfortable homes and gardens, the 
territory thriving anew as the result of irrigation. The old 
covered bridge at Knight's Ferry, built in the early sixties, 
conveys wagons and automobiles across the Stanislaus where 
once the ferry drifted. 

From Oakdale the main railroad route continues through 
Claribel (4) to WATERFORD (6). This place, on the upper 
Tuolumne, is the shipping station for the eastern grain section 
of Stanislaus County. Above Waterford, on the river, are the 
great La Grange Dam and the town of La Grange. The dam 
furnishes the water used in the extensive Modesto and Tur- 
lock irrigation systems. It diverts water into canals on either 
side of the river. As an engineering work K is notable, being 
127 feet high and 327 feet long. The foothill region about La 
Grange is very beautiful; on the lower slopes are extensive 
orange and lemon orchards. 

The main route continues from Waterford to Hickman (1), 
a town which is about to undergo considerable development, 
due to the division of 20,000 acres in the surrounding region 
for the intensive farmer. From here roads extend into the 
mountains of Mariposa and Tuolumne Counties. The railroad 
extends from Hickman to Montpelier (6), near the Merced 
County line. A road leads westward from Montpelier to Tur- 
lock (see main section of Route 26). The railroad continues 
to Ryer (6), in Merced County, and after crossing the Merced. 
River reaches Amsterdam (7). Amsterdam and Rotterdam, 
nearby, are centers of a settlement made here by a colony of 
Hollanders and are now prosperous communities, the land be- 
ing in the center of an extensive irrigation district. From Am- 
sterdam the road leads to the city of Merced (10), described 
in the main section of this route. 



(b) Oakdale to Sonora 



From Oakdale the line of the Sierra Railway runs into the 
old mining region of California, making one of the most in- 
teresting side trips from the main route of travel that can be 
found in California. The country into which this railway ex- 
tends is celebrated in the history of the state. Its gold mines 
furnished capital on which much of the marvelous prosperity 
of the commonwealth was based. Tlie principal towns reached 
by the Sierra Railway are Sonora, Jamestown and Angels, 
but other picturesque and historic settlements are accessible 
by stage. The principal groves of Big Trees are in this region 
also. 



269 

The railroad runs northeast from Oakdale through the 
towns of Paulsell (10), Warnerville (6) and Cooperstown (3) 
into Tuolumne County, reaching Rosasco (6). 

TUOLMUNE COUNTY is a mountain county with an area 
of 2,190 square miles. The entire surface is of a rugged char- 
acter, with a large number of small and fertile valleys. In 
these valleys farming is carried on and fruit-raising here and 
in the foothills is an industry which is rapidly developing. 
The greatest resource of the county, however, is mining, the 
famous Mother Lode traversing the entire western portion of 
the county. Much gold is also found in the East Belt, or ter- 
ritory lying east of the Mother Lode. In the "days of '49," the 
mines of Tuolumne were famous, and although there were 
later times of depression, for the last six years the mining 
industry has been steadily improving. The second important 
industry of Tuolumne County is lumbering; the great timber 
belt is covered with sugar pine, yellow pine, cedar and fir. 
Stock-raising is another large factor in Tuolumne County. 
The scenic beauties include many Alpine lakes, the Grand 
Canyon of the Tuolumne, Hetch-Hetchy Valley, the canyon of 
the Stanislaus, and the Tuolumne Big Tree Grove. Tuolumne 
County received its name from that of a large tribe of Indians, 
once living on both sides of the river. The population of the 
county in 1910 was 9,979. 

Prom Rosasco the Sierra Railway runs through Keystone 
(4) to Chinese (6). On this part of the route is 
Table Mountain, a remarkable formation of volcanic trap, 
21 miles in length, rising about 700 feet above the Stanislaus 
River. The top of the mountain is a perfectly level plain. 
The peculiar nature of the mountain is probably due to a flow 
of molten lava down the channel of an old river and its cool- 
ing there. Table Mountain is widely known as the home of 
Bret Harte's "Truthful James." 

Southeast of Chinese station is Chinese Camp, an old min- 
ing town. The stage line to the Yosemite Valley and Na- 
tional Park begins at this place. This line runs through 
JACKSONVILLE (5), across the Tuolumne River and along 
Mocca,sin Creek to Moccasin Creek Hill (4) (Priest's 
Hotel.) Prom the summit of the hill is viewed a 
splendid panorama of the San Joaquin Valley. A 
mile beyond is Big Oak Fiat, an old mining town and farming 
community. Tlie place took its name from a gigantic oak, 11 
feet in diameter, that once grew here. It was under- 
mined by gold-seekers. Beyond Big Oak Flat is Groveland, 
one of the important towns of the "South Side" of Tuolumne 
County. It is a mining and agricultural center. From Grove- 



270 

land the route runs through Garrote (2) and Hamilton (9^) 
to Colfax (3) and thence over a toll bridge to Crocker's (Se- 
quoia) (10) in the Yosemite National Park. The route from 
Hamilton to Crocker's through the mountains is one of great 
scenic beauty. From Crocker's there are many delightful 
trips into the high Sierras. Lake Tenieya, by Tioga Pass 
road, is 37 miles and Soda Springs, by the same road, 47 miles, 
whence Mts. Conness, Dana and Lyell are climbed. Crocker'ii 
is the starting point for the Hetch-Hetchy Valley (17 miles by 
road and trail) and Lake Eleanor. (Described at the end of 
this section.) From Crocker's the route to Yosemite continues 
through the Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees (elevation 5,800 
feet). Many trees of this grove exceed 300 feet in height each. 
The road passes through 'Dead Giant," the archway through 
the tree being 10 feet wide and 12 feet high. This tree had or- 
iginally a circumference of about 120 feet, but forest fires 
have largely reduced its proportions, though it still measures 
about 31 feet in diameter. Fine specimens of the trees can be 
seen from the road. In a ravine a short distance below it are 
the remains of a large tree, now 35 feet in diameter, and once 
much larger. The age of the sequoias is a disputed point, but 
this tree is probably over 6,000 years old. Two trees that are 
united about 20 feet above the ground are known as the "Siam- 
ese Twins." The Tuolumne Grove contains about 1,300 se- 
quoias in all. After passing through the Big Trees, the route 
enters Mariposa County at Crane Flat, and thence reaches Yo- 
semite Valley. 

The railroad continues from Chinese to JAMESTOWN (6). 
This was a famous gold-mining center in the early days and 
was widely known under the nickname of "Jimtown." It is 
still a mining town of importance and is the division point of 
the Sierra Railway. The branch leading northwest to Angels 
is described later. 

The main lino continues to SONORA (4), the county seat 
of Tuolumne County. (City Hotel, $3.) This place has a pop- 
ulation of about 3,000. There are large lumber mills here, as 
well as a number of factories. The County Court House is an 
imposing structure and the county high school and grammar 
school are other handsome buildings. The campus of the high 
school has large athletic iields. The great limestone quarries 
and kilns of the Pacific Lime and Plaster Company at Sonora 
are of interest. Bret Harte taught school and worked as a 
miner in Sonora in 1854; Mark Twain, too, lived here at one 
time. A stage road runs northwest from Sonora to COLUM- 
BIA, in a rich mining and agricultural district. (City Hotel, 
$1 to $2; Columbia Hotel, $1 to $2.) In the early days of the 



271 

state this was one of the largest cities and was known as the 
"Gem of the Soiitliern Mines." At that time it was prominent- 
ly suggested as the state capital. The town is regaining some 
of its old life through the development of the surrounding re- 
gion. The quarries of the Columbia Marble Company here 
are extensive. The marble is of exceptionally high quality. 
Five miles north of Columbia is Crystal Palace Cave, contain- 
ing a number of subterranean apartments, the larger being 
known as '"Bridal Chamber," "Crystal Palace" and "Music 
Hall." The cave was discovered in 1879. On the road from 
Sonora to Murphy's, after crossing the Tuolumne River, are 
two natural bridges, one 240 feet and the other 180 feet in 
length. The upper and larger bridge is situated less than a 
mile from the road and should be visited. A standard-gauge 
lumber railroad, known as the "Sugar Pine Railroad," runs 
north through a heavily timbered region to Sugar Pine (19). 

The main line continues from Sonora through Standard (4) 
and Ralph (5) to TUOLUMNE (3), the terminus. This is a 
growing community. Tuolumne has large lumber mills, and 
from here runs northeast the Hetch-Hetchy Sc Yosemite Val- 
ley Railroad, a nPtrrow-gauge lumber railway, 40 miles long. 
The route is through a region of great scenic beauty. 

A branch of the Sierra Railway runs northwest from James- 
town, through Tuttletov/n (5), a famous old mining settlement 
across the Stanislaus River to Melones (5), in Calaveras 
County. 

It was at Tuttletown, near Burro Hill, that Bret Harte and 
Mark Twain (Samuel L. Clemens), were associated with James 
Gillis and Stephen Gillis, who gave these Western writers 
the inspiration for many of their best frontier stories. Twain's 
"Jumping Frog" had its origin from a yarn invented by "Jim" 
Gillis. 

CALAVERAS COUNTY is one of the old gold-mining dis- 
tricts of the state, situated on the famous "Mother Lode," and, 
much development of mineral resources is still going on. Min- 
ing here has ceased to be speculative and is established on 
a firm and substantial basis, much silver and copper being 
produced, as well as gold. The agricultural products include 
grain (wheat, oats, barley and corn), alfalfa, potatoes and both 
citrus and deciduous fruit. The citrus belt embraces the foot- 
hill district in the western portion of the county. Stock 
raising is an important industry, and there are large dairy 
herds. To the tourist Calaveras is interesting, especially be- 
cause of its big trees and the quaint old mining towns, associ- 
ated with memories of Mark Twain and Bret Harte. The 
name "Calaveras" in Spanish signifies "skull," and was ap- 



272 

plied to the Calaveras River because of the whitened skulls 
and bones found on its banks, relics of early Indian conflicts. 
The area of Calaveras County is 1,027 square miles; the pop- 
ulation in 1910 was 9,171. The timber resources of the 
county include sugar pine, white pine, cedar, oak, spruce 
and fir. 

The line of the Sierra Railway from Tuttletown passes 
through the once flourishing mining towns of Melones (5) 
and Carson Hill (6) to Angels (19). ANGELS, or Angel's 
Camp, is the largest town in Calaveras County, having a pop- 
ulation of 4,000. There are still large gold mines being 
worked here, with about 900 men employed. The Utica, 
Angels, Lightner and Gold Cliff are the principal properties. 
Both Mark Twain and Bret Harte lived in Angels in the 
early days, and it forms the setting for several of their tales, 
for example Mark Twain's famous "The Jumping Frog of 
Calaveras" and Harte's "The Bellringer of Angels." The 
high school at Angels is called after Bret Harte. Stage roads 
lead from Angels in several directions. In the "days of gold" 
these roads were the scenes of the depredations of Joaquin 
Murieta; and later of Black Bart, who signed himself "The 
Robber Po— 8." 

The stage route to the Calaveras Big Trees runs north- 
east through Vallicita, the headquarters of a great electric 
power company running the street cars of San Francisco, to 
MURPHYS (7), situated in a flat. There are large lumber 
mills here; about 100 men are employed. Near this town is 
the large Cave of Murphys, in which are wonderful forma- 
tions, among them the "Angel's Wings." Seven miles north 
of Murphys and 14 miles west of Calaveras Big Trees is the 
mammoth Cave of Calaveras, discovered by miners in 1850. 
Here are a number of large chambers and apartments, bear- 
ing such names as "Odd Fellows' Hall," "Music Hall," "Bridal 
Chamber," "Cataract," "Cathedral," etc. Near Copperopolis, 
also in Calaveras County, are other remarkable caverns. 

The route from Murphys extends northeast through a for- 
est-lined road to the Calaveras Big Trees Grove (15 miles). 
The Calaveras Grove stands in a small valley near the head- 
waters of San Antonio (San Antone) Creek, at an elevation 
of about 4,500 feet. (Calaveras Big Trees Hotel.) 

The Calaveras Grove, the most northerly of the big tree 
groves, Avas the first discovered (1852). A hunter named 
Dowd was the finder and his story was laughed at by his 
companions; it was necessary for him to resort to a ruse to 
get them to visit the grove and confirm his wonderful account. 
One of the trees, near the "Sentinels," bears the name of 



273 

■'Old Dowd" in memory of the discoverer. There are in this 
grove 97 sequoias from 70 to 93 feet in circumference, rang- 
ing from 300 to 375 feet in height, as well as numerous smaller 
trees. The "Mother of the Forest," 327 feet high, has been 
stripped of its bark, the "Father of the Forest" has fallen, but 
the prostrate trunk indicates that the tree once stood 435 
feet high; the circumference measures 112 feet at the base. 
The stump of the first discovered tree has been converted into 
a dancing floor, 25 feet in diameter (without the bark), 7 feet 
above the ground. The "Pioneer's Cabin" is 32 feet in di- 
ameter; the trunk is hollow and an archway has been cut 
through. The "Pride of the Forest'" is a graceful tree, 23 feet 
in diameter and 300 feet high. "Keystone State" and "Empire 
Stale" are other fine sequoias. "The Ohio" is 33 1/^ feet in di- 
ameter and has a height of 320 feet. "The Three Graces" com- 
prise a beautiful group of trees; "The Trinity" consists of 
three trees growing from one trunk. "The Sentinels" are two 
majestic trees near ihe hotel, each over 300 feet high. 

From Calaveras Grove, a short ride of six miles takes 
the traveler to the South Grove (Stanislaus) of Big Trees, 
the greatest of all the groves. The trail passes through 
Squaw Hollow (2) to the fork of the Stanislaus River 
(1), which is spanned by a bridge. Above the bridge is a 
series of rapids; the scenery along the river is picturesque 
and beautiful, with its vine-clad and tree-covered slopes and 
its steep basaltic cliffs. The traveler is now in Tuolumne 
Countj^ The trail ascends the divide between Beaver Creek 
and the river; the view from the summit is remarkably fine. 

After passing Beaver Creek the South Grove is reached. 
Tills grove contains more than 1,380 sequoias over 18 feet in 
circumference, besides many smaller trees; on the whole 
the trees are not as large as those in the Calaveras Grove. 
Among the largest trees are "General Custer," "Palace Ho- 
tel," "Smith's Cabin" and "Noah's Ark." Most of the trees 
show traces of a great Are that raged in the region more than 
1,000 years ago. The largest fallen tree is "Old Goliath," 261 
feet long. 

The beautiful Falls of the San Antone, 150 feet high, are 
reached from the Big Tree Grove. They lie five miles to 
the southwest and may be reached by road; the canyon be- 
low the falls is steep, its sides rising 300 feet above the 
Creek. Southeast of here, is the Big Sheep Ranch Mine (5). 

The Hetch-Hetchy Valley, reached from Crocker's (Se- 
quoia) and other places in Tuolumne County, is another 
scenic wonder of this mountain region. The valley has been 



274 

termed "the little Yosemite," and greatly resembles the 
famous valley in the general formation of its cliffs and in 
its waterfalls. Hetch-Hetchy is situated at an elevation of 
3,660 feet above sea-level, fourteen miles north of Yosemite 
in a straight line. The valley is about 31/2 miles long, vary- 
ing from one-fourth to three-fourths of a mile in width. It is 
believed that the valley was once the bed of a vast glacier 
heading at Mt. Dana and Mt. Lyell; there are many signs of 
glacial action in Hetch-Hetchy. Tlie Tuolumne River here is 
about 200 feet wide; flowing from east to west between the 
granite walls of the canyon, which rise almost perpendicularly 
for 2,000 feet; domes and pinnacles in the surrounding range 
rear their crests 4,000 feet above the valley floor. The wa- 
terfalls of Hetch-Hetchy are among the most beautiful in the 
Sierras; they are largest in the spring, when the snows are 
melting. The Wapama Palls (Hetch-Hetchy Falls) on the 
northern side of the valley, plunge down a distance of 1,700 
feet; this is really a great cascade, since the drop is not 
perpendicular, though nearly so. The North Dome (6,400 
feet) rises to the east of the falls. On the southern side 
of the valley a notable eminence is Kolana Rock (5,800 feet), 
almost opposite the falls. There are many other domes, 
towers, spires and battlements resembling to a remarkable 
degree those of Yosemite, though on a smaller scale. Hetch- 
Hetchy may be reached from Yosemite by horse trail by 
way of Tenaya Canyon, Matterhorn and Tiltill; also by horse 
trail by way of Tenaya Canyon, Smedberg and Benson Lakes; 
there are good camping grounds along the routes. Beautiful 
Lake Eleanor, at the lower end of Hetch-Hetchy Valley has 
been suggested as the source of the water supply for San 
Francisco and other cities of Central California; much discus- 
sion and litigation are involved and the question remains to 
be settled. Above Hetch-Hetchy is the Grand Canyon of the 
Tuolumne, which is cut from 3,000 to 4,000 feet deep for a 
distance of 25 miles. Along the course are hundreds of pic- 
turesque lakes and lakelets and mountain scenery equaling 
that in other parts of the Yosemite National Park. 



(c) Merced to El Portal 



The line of the Yosemite Valley Railroad runs from Mer- 
ced to El Portal, at the entrance to the Yosemite National 
Park, a distance of 78 miles. From here is reached the 
world-famous Yosemite Valley. This is the route usually 
followed by travelers seeking the wonderland of Yosemite, 
though there are stage lines running to the valley as well. 



275 

Because of the importance of Yosemite to California travel 
it has been described in a separate section (see Table of 
Contents.) 

After leaving Merced, the line passes through Bellevue 
(3), Edendale (11) and Hopeton (15), all in a rich region, 
covered with vinej^ards, orchards and farms. Snelling (18) 
is the oldest town, and first county seat of Merced County. 
It is the center of a rich agricultural district. At Merced 
Falls (24) the line reaches the entrance of the Merced Can- 
yon. After leaving this place the route crosses into Mariposa 
County. 

MARIPOSA COUNTY is known to the tourist mainly be- 
cause of its scenic beauties, but it has large resources as 
well. Mining, of course, first brought it into prominence; the 
mines of the county in the early days were among the best- 
known in California. Hornitos, one of the historic towns of 
-California, was once the most important point betweea 
Stockton and Los Angeles. Though for the last few years 
mining has not been followed as generally as in former 
times, the annual production of minerals has run from 
$500,000 to $1,000,00'0. Besides gold, the chief mineral prod- 
uct, the other important minerals are copper, lead, macadam, 
platinum, rubble and silver. A visit to the many gold mines 
of the county is interesting, and no less so are the towns 
which formerly flourished because of the industry of the 
miners. Now they are beginning to thrive again as the farm- 
ing and fruit-growing possibilities of the county are becoming 
generally known. It has been found that the soils of the 
county are excellently adapted to the production of decid- 
uous and citrus fruits, olives, the vine, melons, berries, hay, 
alfalfa, grain and vegetables; irrigation is unnecessary in 
most parts of Mariposa County. Besides farming and mining, 
other leading industries of the region are lumbering, dairy- 
ing, stock raising and poultry raising. The scenic wonders 
of the county bring thousands of tourists here every year. 
The Yosemite Valley, lying wholly in Mariposa County, is 
one of the most beautiful regions in America; its fame is 
world-wide. The Mariposa Big Trees (near Wawona) are 
natural curiosities which claim their share of the interest 
of travelers. They are described in Section d under this 
route, Berenda to Raymond. The area of the county is 1,580 
square miles. The population in 1910 was 3,956. 

After passing Merced Falls the traveler continues up the 
canyon of the Merced River, which becomes narrow and 
steep as the mountains are ascended. The train follows the 
course of the river for sixty miles through the gorge, cross- 



276 

ing and recrossing, with ever-changing scenic effects. From 
Merced Falls is reached Exchequer (8), where the stream is 
30 feet deep and pouring over a dam with an 18-foot fall 
furnishes 500 horsepower for the electric power plant nearby. 
Beyond here the piles of smooth-worn stones and upturned 
rocks bear witness to the feverish hunt for gold in the early 
days; at one bend of the river, close to the shore, stands an 
object of considerable historic interest, a miners' bank, in 
which was kept the gold dust panned from the stream. It 
is a small square structure of stone, protected with heavy 
shutters and doors of steel. The next station after Exchequer 
is Pleasant Valley (5) and thence the train passes through 
Jasper (3) and Kittridge (5i^) to Bagby. 

At BAGBY is the picturesque Bagby Dam, the water 
pouring over the ledge close by the railroad bridge. From 
Bagby can be reached by road the old town of MARIPOSA, 
the county seat of the county of the same name. It is sit- 
uated in the old Fremont Grant, given by Governor Alvarado 
to General Fremont in 1847. The population of Mariposa 
township in 1910 was 654. From here can be reached many 
of the historic mining towns of the Mother Lode. To the 
northeast is Signal Peak, rising to a height of about 7,000 
feet above sea-level, the most prominent eminence in this 
part of the Sierras. From the summit there is a view of the 
surrounding mountains and a sweeping panorama of the San 
Joaquin Valley from Stockton to Fresno. Near Signal Peak 
is the little town of Jerseydale. To the north of Bagby may 
be reached COULTERVILLE, another old mining settlement, 
the chief town of Mariposa County north of the Merced 
River. There are large mines hereabout, with stock raising, 
viticulture and fruit-growing leading industries in the trib- 
utary country. Coulterville is on a stage road to the Yo* 
Semite; near here is the Bower Cave, a remarkable grotto. 

After passing Bagby the railroad continues up the Merced 
Canyon past North Fork (6) and Mountain King (2), where 
there is a 20-stamp mill for crushing gold ore, past Brice- 
burg (5) to El Portal, the terminus of the line. EL PORTAL, 
situated on a plateau above the river, commands a beautiful 
view of the canyon and the mountains rising above it. Here 
is situated the commodious Hotel Del Portal (A. P. $4 up). 
At El Portal the night is usually passed by the traveler^ 
and the Yosemite Valley, with its wonders, is reached the 
next morning by the stage coaches of the Yosemite Trans- 
portation Company. 



277 



( d ) Berenda to Raymond 



This route includes the side trip by rail from Berenda, 
on the main line of the Southern Pacific, to Raymond, 
whence Wawona is reached by road. From Wawona the 
Mariposa Big TVees and Yosemite Valley are accessible. 

The railroad runs from Berenda near the town of Miller 
on the Santa Fe line and through the towns of Talbot (7) 
and Daulton (5) to Raymond (9). The country traversed is 
among the most picturesque in the lower Sierras. 

RAYMOND is in a large quarry region and is a center for 
the surrounding farming territory. There are two great 
granite quarry companies operating about Raymond, each 
doing a business of about $1,000,000 yearly. About 500 men 
are employed in the quarries. The granite from this sec- 
tion is said to excel all other American granite, except that 
of Vermont, which has made tliat state famous. Among the 
large buildings in California built of Raymond granite are 
the San Francisco Postoffice, the Custom House, the Fairmont 
Hotel in San Francisco and several buildings of the Univer- 
sity of California in Berkeley. 

From Raymond a road accessible to automobiles leads 
northeast to Wawona, at the southern entrance to the Yosem- 
ite National Park. This road, with grades running up to 
18 per cent, passes from Raymond through Grub Gulch (12) 
to Ahwahnee (6), a popular recreation ground, and thence 
to Wawona r22) by a picturesque route. 

WAWONA is situated on the south fork of the Merced 
River at an elevation of 4,000 feet. The Wawona Hotel 
(rates, $3.50 to $4.50 per day) accommodates tourists and is 
a popular resort. The surroundings are beautiful, the forests 
abounding with game and the streams with fish, making this 
a sportsman's paradise. Wawona for forty years has been 
a favorite recreation ground of those visiting the Yosemite 
region. A stage line runs regularly from Wawona to El 
Portal, by way of Inspiration Point, and BridaJ Veil Falls, 
there connecting with the Yosemite Valley Railroad (see 
Section c under this route). Another stage line runs to the 
Mariposa Grove of Big Trees. 

The Mariposa Big Trees, situated four miles southeast of 
Wawona, are among the best known and most visited of the 
gigantic sequoias of California, partly because of their ac- 
cessibility, and also because of their many remarkable feat- 
ures. The grove is situated in a park two miles square. 



278 

There are two sections known as the Upper and Lower 
Groves; altogether there are about seven hundred trees. In 
the surrounding region there are a few small groves, which 
are seldom visited. The trees of the Mariposa Grove were 
discovered in 1855, three years after the first Sequoia Gigan- 
tea were seen by white men in Calaveras. 

There are a number of individual trees which are note- 
worthy. "The Telescope" has its heart burned out from the 
ground to the top. "Wawona" is the name given to a living 
tree through which an archway has been cut; the stagecoach 
drives through this tree without difficulty, as the arch is ten 
feet in height and breadth. "Wawona" is the native Indian 
name for Sequoia. In the cavity of "The Haverford" sixteen 
horses have been stabled at one time. The highest tree of 
the Mariposa Grove is known as "Columbus," measuring 323 
feet from the ground to its top. "The Mariposa" is almost 
as tall. "The Faithful Couple" is a name given to two trees 
which have grown together up to 100 feet. On "The 
Fallen Monarch" a six-horse coach with sixteen passengers 
has been driven with ease; it is one of the most often photo- 
graphed trees in the world. Not far behind it is "Grizzly 
Giant," whose age is estimated at 5,000 years. Its first 
branches are 125 feet above the ground. It is 104 feet in cir- 
cumference at the base. There are a number of other re- 
markable trees in this grove. 



27. Stockton to Fresno 

West Route 

Along the western side of the San Joaquin Valley a line 
of the Southern Pacific railroad runs from Stockton to Fresno, 
through a prosperous and fertile farming region. 

From Stockton the route extends to Tracy (20) and thence 
continues southeast through Vernalis (10) and Westley (8) 
to Patterson (7), a thriving farming town which has sprung 
up in the last few years because of the extensive irrigation 
development in the surrounding territory. The town has a 
population of 750, all the people of Patterson having settled 
here since 1910, when the townsite was laid out. TTie growth 
of the importance of the community continues, and many sub- 
stantial business structures are being erected. Patterson 
has excellent public buildings, besides comfortable homes. 



279 

Las Palmas avenue, the main street, is a boulevard extending 
through the colony to the river; it is lined on both sides with 
palms and eucalyptus. Crossing this avenue at right angles, 
a mile from the town, is another fine boulevard, known as 
Sycamore avenue. (Hotel Del Puerto; Welty Hotel, A. P. 
$2.50.) From Patterson the railroad continues to Crow's 
Landing (6). This is the center of fertile alfalfa ranches and 
prosperous dairy farms. The route continues thence south 
to Newman (5). 

NEWMAN, the largest town in the western part of 
Stanislaus County, has a population of 2,500. The popula- 
tion in 1910 was 892, but the number of inhabitants has 
grown greatly since the census. This is due to the develop- 
ment of the prosperous grain-growing and dairying district 
in the surrounding country. The city has excellent public 
buildings, including a model high school. Newman is situat- 
ed 25 miles southwest of Modesto, the county seat of Stanis- 
laus County. 

From here the route enters Merced County, continuing 
southeast to Gustine (4). This town, though founded only 
a few years ago, has a population of about 600. It is sur- 
rounded by a large alfalfa growing and dairying region. 
From here the railroad runs through Ingomar (6) to Volta 
(7). The tributary territory raises alfalfa, hay and grain, 
and has many dairy farms. From this place the route runs 
to Los Banos (4), a thriving valley town. The census of 
1910 recorded its population as 745, but since then the growth 
has been steady; the surrounding region is thickly settled. 
Tlie name Los Banos signifies in Spanish "the baths." 

From Los Banos the route of the Southern Pacific runs 
through Dos Palos (13) into Fresno County, extending 
through Oxalis (7) to Firebaugh (QVz)- This is the center 
of a stock-raising and general farming district. From here 
the line continues to Mendota (8), another farming center. 
The railroad crosses the Fresno Slough at White's Bridge 
(21/2) and runs through Ingle (4l^) and Jamesan (3) to Ker- 
man. This is a prosperous agricultural town situated in a 
region which is undergoing continual development. From 
Kerman a branch line runs south to Armona, forming part 
of the system of railroads described later in the section, 
Fresno to Bakersfield — West Route. The main line con- 
tinues eastward from Kerman through the towns of Floyd 
(4), Rolinda (1) and Pratton (4) to the city of Fresno (6). 
Fresno and the surrounding country are described in 
Route 26. 



28. Fresno to Bakersfield 

Central Route 



This route is a continuation of the journey up the San 
Joaquin Valley to Los Angeles. It is the one most generally 
followed, but there are also an East Route and a West 
Route, both described in succeeding pages. 

Prom Fresno the main line of the Southern Pacific ex- 
tends through Malaga (5) to Fowler (9), an important fruit 
center. From here the route runs to Selma (6). This is an 
attractive town of 2,500, surrounded by fertile orchards, vine- 
yards and alfalfa fields. There is a large fruit cannery here 
which is model in equipment and sanitation; the annual out- 
put of preserved fruits is immense. From Selma the rail- 
road runs to Kingsburg (5), another farming center, and 
soon after passing this place enters Tulare County to Traver 
(6). 

TULARE COUNTT occupies a territory as large as Con- 
necticut, its area being 4,935 square miles. Three-fourths of 
this area is suitable for horticulture and agriculture, and Tu- 
lare is one of the leading counties in the state in these in- 
dustries. The difference in elevation at various points in 
the county has aided in the production of diversified crops. 
Farming is confined principally to the western half of the 
county, lying on the plain of the San Joaquin Valley, where 
most of the population is centered. In the foothills there 
are many large orchards, and oranges thrive in the thermal 
belt. Besides agricultural and horticultural products, there 
are a number of important resources; dairying, stock raising, 
bee culture and poultry raising are industries allied to the 
tilling of the soil. Besides these, mining has grown into a 
considerable prominence; among the minerals produced are 
magnesite, copper, gold, gypsum, silver, granrte, rubble and 
precious gems. In the mountains in the eastern section of 
the county there is much beautiful scenery, especially in 
the Kings and Kern Canyons, which are described in later 
pages under a separate heading. There are a number of 
groves of big trees in the mountain region, and several pop- 
ular resorts. The Eastern Route from Fresno to Bakersfield 
describes the features of this part of the county. The pop- 
ulation of Tulare County in 1910 was 35,440; in 1900, the 



281 

census credited the county with 18,375. The present number 
of inhabitants is estimated from the election registration to 
be nearly 47,500. 

TRAVER, the first town entered on the central route 
from the north, is a thriving agricultural town situated in 
the Alta Irrigation District. (Hotel Del Gate, $1.25 to $2.) 
From here the route runs to Goshen Junction, whence a 
branch line runs to Hanford (see West Route). From here 
the railroad continues to TULARE, a growing city of 3,250. 
This is a large fruit-exporting district and there are exten- 
sive agricultural industries in addition in the tributary region. 
The public buildings include a free library, with over 6,000 
volumes, a high school and other educational institutions 
of a high order. From Tulare the route continues through 
a fertile orchard and farm region through Tipton (11) and 
Pixley (6) to Earlimart (5). There is still a great deal of 
grain produced in this district, as there once was throughout 
the entire San Joaquin Valley. From Earlimart the railroad 
continues into Kern County, reaching Delano (9). 

KERN COUNT'Y, the third largest in the state, has an 
area of 8,0'03 square miles. The resources, as well as the 
topography, are diversified. Kern County has the greatest 
oil-producing fields in the United States, gold m^ines and other 
mineral resources, agricultural and orchard lands and great 
cattle and sheep ranges. The principal crop at present is al- 
falfa. The mountain scenery in the eastern part of the county 
is famous for its beauty, especially in the Kern River Canyon. 
On the south and southeast of the county is the northern 
part of the great Mojave desert. Kern County received its 
name from Kern River, which was so called in honor of Lieu- 
tenant Kern, who accompanied General Fremont on his ex- 
pedition of 1845-47. The population in 1910 was 37,715, hav- 
ing increased from 16,480 in 1900. 

From Delano (population 50'0), which is a growing farm- 
ing and orchard region, the railroad runs through McFarland 
(61/^), a dairy center, to Famoso (5i/4), the junction at which 
the Forterville branch of the Southern Pacific joins the main 
line. (See Eastern Route.) Near here is a 50-acre rose farm, 
well worth seeing in bloom. In the vicinity of Famoso are 
large prune and pear orchards. From Famoso the route ex- 
tends through the towns of Kimberlena (3), Lerdo (4i/^), 
Jewetta (5^/^), Oil Junction {2'^A) and across Kern River to 
Baker sfield (IVo). 

BAKERSFIELD. county seat of Kern County, is a rapidly 
growing and well-built city of about 18,000 people. The pop- 
ulation in 1910 was 12,727; it was 4,836 in 1900. Bakers- 



282 

field recently consolidated with what was formerly Kern 
Cit3% now known as East Bakersfield. The city is the center 
of a large farming, fruit-growing and cattle raising territory, 
but its rapid rise is due mainly to the discovery and develop- 
ment of the oil resources of the county. The hotels of Bakers- 
field are: Arlington; Grand Hotel, E. P. $1 up; Hotel Metro- 
pole, E. P. 75 cents up; New Southern, A. P. $2.50. 

The handsome Kern County Court House (costing 
$400,000) is surrounded by a park. In the Court House is the 
county free library, supplying books to outlying branch li- 
braries. Another library (erected in memory of General E. P. 
Beale) is near the center of the city, and nearby is a notable 
clock-tower, built in memory of his mother by T'ruxton Beale. 
To him also is due the gift of a beautiful park of several 
acres, in which was built an open-air theater of Grecian 
architecture. In this park also are an athletic field, running 
track and swimming pool. The Kern County High School, 
situated in Bakersfield, occupies a substantial modern build- 
ing; the curriculum includes both academic and commercial 
subjects. A manual arts department is connected with this 
institution. 

A branch line of the Southern Pacific from Bakersfield 
runs northeast into the Kern River Oil Fields, through Waits 
(6) to Oil City (3). The Kern River fields were the first 
to be discovered in the county, in 1899, and Kern City is 
the oldest oil town. The population is about 1,000. The town 
is the distributing center of the Kern River Oil Fields. 

The oil industry is immense, having developed rapidly 
since 1900. Producing about 50,000,000 barrels of petroleum 
yearly, Kern County yields more than any other single field 
in the world except Baku, Russia. In 1910 the output of 
Kern County was about one-eighth of the world's petroleum 
production. The oil well region and the processes of refining 
the crude petroleum are of great interest to tourists, as in- 
deed they should be, since the large oil fields of the world 
are not numerous. Tlie other oil fields of Kern County lie 
upon the west side of the county. The McKittrick fields are 
reached by the McKittrick branch of the Southern Pacific. 
The Sunset fields and the Midway fields in the southwestern 
part of the county, are reached from Bakersfield by the 
Sunset Railroad. 

The Sunset Railroad runs from the county seat through 
Gosford (10), Conner (10), near the dry bed of Kern Lake, 
to Millux (4) on Buena Vista Lake. Into this lake, the reser- 
voir for much of the water used in irrigating Kern Valley 
land, the Kern River flows. There is excellent duck and wild 



283 

goose shooting about Buena Vista Lake in season. From 
Millux the line extends to San Emigdio, a prosperous foothill 
orange region. Thence the railroad leads to Pentland, a junc- 
tion point. From here one line runs through Hazelton (Sun- 
set) (3), to Monarch (Maricopa) (2). The other line runs 
northwest from Pentland into the Midway oil fields, through 
Signa (5) to Moron (4). This is a station for Taft, a growing 
oil town of about 2,000 people. From Moron the road con- 
tinues through Midoil (4) to Fellows (2) and Shale (2), the 
end of the line. All these are prosperous oil towns in the 
Midway field. 

The Southern Pacific branch running west into the Mc* 
Kittrick oil field extends throagh Gosford (10), Stevens (6), 
Rio Bravo {QV2) and Bowerbank (7%) to Buttonwillow (3). 
Thence the line runs through Lok:ern (5), and Asphalto (9) to 
McKittrick (1). This town has a population of about 1,000 
and is the center of the oil fields to which it gave its name. 
At Olig, two miles northwest of McKittrick, is the terminus 
of this branch of the Southern Pacific. A road leads west 
from McKittrick, across the mountains to San Luis Obispo 
County. North of the McKittrick oil fields are the Lost Hills 
oil fields, which are being developed. The oil from the Kern 
County fi.elds is transported by pipe lines to various harbors 
along the coast, most of it to Richmond, on San Francisco 
bay. 



29. Fresno to Bakersfield 

West Route 



This journey along the western side of the San Joaquin 
Valley from Fresno to Bakerfield is made by the lines of the 
Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad (Santa Fe), with 
branch lines of the Southern Pacific connecting points along 
the route with their main lines. One of these branch lines, 
crossing the Santa Fe almost at right angles, runs to the im- 
portant Coalinga Oil Fields, by way of Hanford; this is de- 
scribed as a side trip in Section a under this route. 

A branch of the Southern Pacific runs in the same general 
direction as the Santa Fe from Fresno to Hanford. This line 
mentioned in Route 27, extends from Kerman, on the west 
route between Stockton and Fresno; the town is situated 15 
miles west of Fresno and is reached from there. From Ker- 
man this line runs southeast through a fertile territory, pass- 



284 

ing throngh McMullin (7), Raisin City (5i^), Caruthers (5l^) 
and Cando (6) to Lillis (4), a colony town situated in a great 
Spanish grant, the Laguna de Taclie. East of Lillis, on the 
Santa Fe (see below) is the larger town of Laton. From 
Lillis the route enters Kings County, reaching Hardwick 
(21/4), another town of the Grant. From Hardwick the rail- 
road extends through Kimble (2) to Armona (4). This is an 
important junction point, from here branches of the Southern 
Pacific leading east and west; the eastern lines run through 
Hanford (3), on the line of the Santa Fe, and Remnoy (5) 
to Goshen Junction (9), on the main central route, described 
in Route 28. 

From Fresno the Santa Fe runs southward through Calwa 
(3), Olep^nder (4) and Conejo (10) to LATON (5). This is a 
flourishing colony town on the old Spanish grant, Laguna de 
Tache, Nearby is the town of Lillis, on the branch of the 
Southern Pacific described above. From here the line enters 
Kings County, extending to Hanford (9). 

KINGS COUNTT is triangular in shape, with an area of 
1,159 square miles. The population in 1910 was 16,230; in 
1900 the county had 9,871 inhabitants. The chief agricultural 
products are alfalfa, barlej'-, sugar beets and raisin grapes. 
The county received its name from the Kings River, in the 
northern part. The most interesting natural feature of the 
region, however, is Tulare Lake, which lies in the center of 
the county. 

Tulare Lake is a large shallow body of water, and in the 
dry seasons it sometimes disappears. It was discovered in 
1773 by Commandante Fages, when on an expedition search- 
ing for deserters. He named it "Los Tules" because it was 
surrounded by marshes and filled with rushes (tules). There 
is excellent fishing in the Lake and shooting in season here of 
ducks, wild geese, hill crane and other water-fowl. On the 
western side of the lake, at the Arroyo Cantoova, was the 
headquarters, for a long time, of the notorious bandit chief, 
Joaquin Murieta, and he was killed near here on July 25, 1853. 
His band numbered over 100 men. At the time of his death 
he was planning to sweep the state from Mt. Shasta south 
with 500 outlaw riders. His slayer, Captain Love, cut off 
his head and carried it to San Francisco and later received 
the $6,000 which had been offered for the desperado's death. 

HANFORD, the county seat of Kings County, is a rapidly 
growing little city of 6,000 people. (Hotel Artesia. A. P.; 
Hotel Essey, E. P. $1 up.) The population in 1910 was 4,829; 
in 1900 there were 2,926 inhabitants. The County Court 



285 

House is a handsome building, surrounded by a park. The 
Public Library is another imposing structure. Hanford is sur- 
rounded by a rich agricultural region and has excellent trans- 
portation facilities, being reached by lines of the Southern 
Pacific and the Santa Fe systems. The line of the Southern 
Pacific running southwest into the Coalinga oil fields is de- 
scribed in Section a under this route, Hanford to Ccalinga. 

From Hanford the line of the Santa Fe runs southeast 
through Guernsey (8) to CORCOPvAN (10). This town is the 
center of a large sugar beet region and has a sugar factory 
and other industrial interests; it is situated a short distance 
east of Tulare Lake. Corcoran is connected with Visalia by 
a line of the Santa Fe which runs northeast through Wau- 
kena and Tulare. Visalia is described in Route 30. 

The main line from Corcoran extends into Tulare County, 
reaching Angiola (9). Angiola is situated in the midst of a 
thickly settled region, which is progressing rapidly as the re- 
sult of the development of irrigation. Angiola is the shipping 
point of Alpaugh, situated six miles to the southwest; this 
thriving town has sprung up since 1906. From Angiola the 
railroad runs through Allensworth (10), Waco (19), Rosedale 
(18) and Jastro (4) to Bakersfield (4). Bakersfield and the 
surrounding territory are described in Route 28, Fresno to 
Bakersfield, Central Route. 



( a ) Hanford to Coalinga 



From Hanford the Southern Pacific line running to Coal- 
inga extends through Armona (3), the center of the fruit- 
growing industry of Kings County, to Lemoore (5). The pop- 
ulation of this town in 1910 was exactly 1,000, but since that 
time it has almost doubled. The Lemoore high school is an 
attractive building in the mission style of architecture. Le- 
moore lies in a fertile orchard and farm region. South of Le- 
moore, on Lake Tulare, is Empire. From Lemoore the rail- 
road runs through Rossi (3) into Fresno County. The line 
continues from Rossi through Lethent (3), Huron (14), Stan- 
ley (7) and Ora (7) to Coalinga (1). 

COALINGA is a thriving little city of 5,000, supported by 
the oil industry, the Coalinga field being the largest single 
petroleum field in California. (Pleasant Valley Hotel, E. P. 
$1 up.) In 1910 Coalinga had a population of 4,199. Oil was 
found here in 1896. The city has a large brick grammar 
school and high school built after the mission style. The oil 
territory covers about thirty square miles and is undergoing 



286 

a constant development. Rich agricultural lands in this re- 
gion await only an irrigation system to add further to its 
prosperity. Five miles beyond Coalinga is Alcalde, the ter- 
minus of the Southern Pacific branch line. 



30. Fresno to Bakersfield 

East Route 



This is the third main route by which the traveler can 
journey from Fresno to Bakersfield. The Southern Pacific 
line runs from Fresno to Famoso, where is the junction with 
the central route. The Santa Fe runs from Fresno through 
Reedley, Dinuba and Visalia to Tulare, on the central route, 
described in Route 28. The main trip through the eastern 
section of the San Joaquin Valley at this point is therefore 
along the lines of the Southern Pacific, the eastern route 
joining the central only a few miles north of Bakersfield. 

From Fresno the Southern Pacific extends southeast 
through Butler (6) to Sanger (8). This is a mill town of 
1,000 people, situated in a farming region. Logs are brought 
down from the mountains by flumes and manufactured here 
into lumber. A road leads from Sanger eastward through 
Squaw Valley and Dunlap to Millwood, near the boundary of 
the General Grant National Park (see under Kings-Kern Can- 
yon Region). The main route runs from Sanger southward 
through Fargo (6) to Reedley (4). This is a prosperous farm- 
ing town on the Kings River, close to the foothills, A branch 
line from Reedley operated by the Santa Fe runs northeast 
into the foothill orange and vineyard district beyond Mount 
Campbell, through the towns of Darwin (4), Wahtoke (1) and 
Minkler (4) to Piedra (7). Crossing the Kings River from 
Reedley, the main line of the railroad enters Tulare County, 
reaching Dinuba. 

DINUBA is a prosperous farming and orchard town lying 
in a fertile region. About 800 carloads of deciduous fruits 
are shipped from here each year and hundreds of acres of 
oranges in the foothills near here are now coming into bear- 
ing, which promises much for the continued growth of the 
little city. Dinuba has a population of 2,250, having doubled 
its number of inhabitants in the last three years. There are 
a large number of fruit-packing houses in the city, besides 



287 

other industrial interests. From Dinuba tlie railroad runs 
through Monson (4), a town in the irrigated district, and Ka- 
weah (14) to Exeter (4). 

EXETER is a community with a "population of 1,500 and 
is growing rapidly. The place is an important fruit-ship.ping 
center, both citrus and deciduous fruits being grown in the 
surrounding territory. There are a number of attractive pub- 
lic buildings, including the high school, set in a ten-acre cam- 
pus; the Board of Trade is housed in its own building, in the 
Mission style of architecture. There is a fine city park, and 
popular picnic grounds are along the Kaweah River, north of 
the city. Exeter has important manufactories, including large 
canneries. From here is reached Visalia, by lines of the 
Southern Pacific and of the Visalia Electric Railroa,d, of 
which it is the headquarters. A line of the electric road 
runs eastward to Lemon Cove, a citrus fruit center near the 
Kaweah River; from^ here is reached by road the Sequoia 
National Park, by way of Three Rivers (see special section 
on Kings-Kern region). 

VISALIA, the county seat of Tulare County, is a pretty 
little city with a population of 5,500. (Palace Hotel, $2.) It 
is one of the oldest communities in the San Joaquin Valley, 
being founded in 1852; it was named after Nat Vise, a famous 
bear hunter of the early days. The public buildings are ex- 
ceptionally well built. The Coun iy Court House (cost, 
$150,0'00) is set in an attractive park occupying an entire 
block. There is an excellent public library, and a new county 
library is planned to act as the center for the free library sys- 
tem of Tulare County. The high school occupies a campus of 
ten acres and there are other schools which rank high. The 
City Hall is one of the finest municipal buildings in the valley. 
The surrounding territory is very fertile and has done much 
toward promoting Visalia's prosperity. Besides the packing 
and shipping of fruit, there are large manufacturing indus- 
tries centering at Visalia. The city has excellent transporta- 
tion facilities, for besides the lines of the Southern Pacific 
and the Santa Fe systems it is served by the Visalia Elec- 
tric, running eastward to Exeter and beyond. The Southern 
Pacific after passing Visalia from Exeter extends westward to 
Goshen Junction, on the main line of the Southern Pacific 
(see Route 28). 

From Exeter the eastern route of the Southern Pacific 
runs to LINDSAY (7). This is a city of 2,500 population, with 
extensive manufacturing resources. There are a number of 
orange groves and other orchards in the surrounding terri- 
tory. The acreage in oranges is very large and the groves 



288 

extend far out on the plains, proving that the thermal belt 
does not lie entirely in the foothills. The schools of Lindsay 
are said to be among the best in the state for a city of its 
size. From here the railroad continues to Porterville (10). 

PORTERVILLE is another thriving city supported by the 
prosperity of the orchard and farming industries of the sur- 
rounding territory. (Pioneer Hotel, B. P. $1 up.) There are 
over 8,000 acres of oranges and 4,000 acres of alfalfa trib- 
utary to Porterville, the former giving rise to a number of 
packing houses in the city. There are also large industrial 
plants at Porterville. The community is made attractive with 
excellent public buildings and parks. There are a public li- 
brary and a high school, besides educational facilities in the 
lower grades. A point of great interest is Luther Burbank 
Park, a beautiful foothill tract of forty acres, including a boat- 
ing lake. Porterville is connected with the country to the 
east by the lines of the Porterville Northeastern Railroad, 
which runs from the city to Springville, near the forks of the 
Tule River. This line gives access to a picturesque region. 
Springville is one of the starting points for the Kern Lakes, 
Mount Whitney, Sequoia National Park and the Kings-Kern 
Canyon Region generally, all of which are described in other 
parts of this book. Porterville had a population of 2,696 in 
1910. 

Prom Porterville the line of the railroad continues south- 
west to DUCOR (12), a thriving orchard town. From here are 
reached the California Hot Springs, lying in the mountains 
to the southeast, 22 miles distant. The trip to the springs 
is made by an automobile stage running from Ducor. The 
springs are situated on the banks of Deer Creek, at an eleva- 
tion of 3,200 feet above sea-level. There is magnificent scen- 
ery in the vicinity. (Rates at hotel, $12 to $16 per week.) 
From Ducor the railroad runs into Kern County and joins 
the main line of the Southern Pacific at Famoso Junction (23) 
and thence continues along the main route to Bakersfield, 21 
miles further on. Bakersfield and the surrounding territory 
are described in Route 28. 



3 1 . Bakersfield to Los Angeles 

This route completes the valley route from San Francisco 
to Los Angeles; most of the region passed through in this 
stage of the journey, however, is not valley land, but moun- 



289 

tain and desert, the great Mojave (Mohave) Desert lying be- 
yond the Tehachapi Mountains. The main automobile routes 
from Bakersfield to Los Angeles are two; one of these follows 
the general course of the railroads, while the other takes the 
way of Tejon Pass. This scenic route over the Tejon 
Pass, across the Tehachapi Mountains, is extremely popular 
with autoists. It runs south through Shatter, whence two 
roads run to Rose Station, the direct route (32), being pre- 
ferred, except in wet weather, when the eastern road, by way 
of Tejon (43), is the best. From Rose Station the road as- 
cends to the summit of the pass, running past old Fort Tejon 
to Lebec (11). The mountain scenery in this vicinity is mag- 
nificent. Old Fort Tejon was established in 1854 and aban- 
doned as a military post in 1864. The adobe ruins are pictur- 
esque. Fi'om Lebec the road continues into Los Angeles 
County, ending at the southern metropolis. 

As far as Mojave the Santa Fe Railroad uses the tracks 
of the Southern Pacific Company; from there it continues 
eastward, reaching Barstow; the Southern Pacific extends 
south to Los Angeles; this is the route followed and described 
in this section. 

From Bakersfield the railroad runs southeast, passing 
through Edison (7), the center of a large orange-growing re- 
gion, Treves (5), Bena (3) and Union (3^^) to Caliente (4). 
F^om Caliente a road runs northeast to Havilah, in the Sierra 
Forest Reserve. Thence is reached Kernville, on the Kern 
River. This road is adapted to automobile travel. Kernville 
(population 150) is the center of a farming region. The scen- 
ery in this vicinity is very beautiful; the mountains and Kern 
River Canyon are popular with the hunter, fisherman and 
camper. At Caliente the ascent of the Tehachapi mountains 
is begun. From Caliente the route runs through Bealville 
(6) and AVoodford (8) to Tehachapi (12), at the summit of 
the famous Tehachapi Pass. This *pass forms the dividing 
line between Northern and Southern California. 

TEHACPL^PI is situated in a rich summit valley, in which 
hay, fruit and grain are grown and much livestock is raised. 
There are immense limestone deposits here, the great cement 
plant of the city of Los Angeles, at Tehachapi, supplying all 
the cement for the Los Angeles aqueduct, running to the 
southeast of here. Tehachapi is 3,963 feet above sea-level, 
the mountains rising as high again. 

From Tehachapi the route continues through Cameron 
(9), across the line of the Los Angeles aqueduct to Mojave 
(11). Mojave is situated in the northern part of the great 
jS^ojave Desert and is an important railroad junction point. 



290 

The routes northeast into Inyo County and east into San Ber- 
nardino County are described later. Prom here on the trav- 
eler passes through mile? of unreclaimed desert; in many 
places, however, by means of irrigation flow-wells, the desert 
land has been proved excellent for agriculture. From Mojave 
the railroad extends through Gloster {&V2) and Rosamond (7) 
into Los Angeles County at Oban i^Vz)- 

Prom Oban the route continues across a region which has 
not yet undergone much development, passing through 
Lancaster (4^/4), a town of about 300 people, to Palmdale (9). 
Thence it extends through Vincent (7), Acton (5), Ravenna 
(3) and Lang (10) to Saugus (12). This is an important junc- 
tion point, where the line from Ventura by way of Santa 
Paula and the Santa Clara Valley turns southward toward 
Los Angeles. 

Prom Saugus the railroad runs to Newhall (2), where 
there are large producing oil wells, and thence continues 
through Tunnel (4) and Sylmar (2) to Pernando (3). 

PERNANDO is situated in the San Pernando Valley, which 
is now undergoing extensive development along agricultural 
lines. Its outstanding point of inter^'st to the tourist is the, 
old Mission San Fernando, located about a mile from the 
town. The mission was founded in honor of Pernando III, 
King of Spain, its full title being San F'ernando Rey de Es- 
pana. Established September 8, 1797, San Pernando soon grew 
to great prosperity; in fact, it was probably th€^ richest of all 
the missions in California at one time. The chapel, whose 
ruins are seen today, was erected at 1818. TTie original estab- 
lishment was very large; the buildings covered eight or ten 
acres. The best preserved portion of the miss4on structures 
at the present time is the long row of rooms connected by a 
corridor, with the graceful arches characteristic of the mis- 
sions. The little bell-tower at the corner of this row is a 
feature which is distinctive of San Pernando. The ancient 
palm trees, planted almost 120 years ago, are of peculiar in- 
terest, as they are among the oldest in California; the olive 
trees also are of great age, though they were planted long af- 
ter those at San Diego. The San Pernando Valley about the 
mission is full of color and beauty, with the mountains of 
that name towering above it. There are many historic asso- 
ciations with the country about San Pernando. Before Amer- 
ican occupation, a battle was fought near here between the 
rival forces of Californians under Micheltorena on one side 
and Alvarado and Castro on the other. Micheltorena was de- 
feated; in his army fought a number of Americans, such as 
Bidwell, Sutter, Captain Gantt, Townsend, Sinclair and O'Far- 



291 

rell. It is said that gold was discovered at San Fernando 
long before it was found at Colonia by Marshall; in 1846 the 
San Fernando mines made shipments of gold to the Boston 
mint, while in 1842, one Abel Stearns sent 20 ounces of the 
precious metal to the mint at Philadelphia; and the Mexicans 
knew of the gold some years before that. 

From San Fernando the railroad continues southwest 
through Mulholland (1) and Roscoe (5) to Bur bank (4), an at- 
tractive residence suburb of Los Angeles, and from there ex- 
tends through Sepulveda (2), West Giendale (1), Tropico (2), 
and River Station (4) to Arcade Station (2), in the center of 
Los Angeles. The city of Los Angeles and the surrounding 
territory are described at length in Route 9 of this book. 



32. Los Angeles to Bishop 

Owens River Valley 

This route is one of the most attractive in the state, bring- 
ing the traveler close, as it does, to the high Sierras and reach- 
ing a country whose possibilities along agricultural lines are 
just beginning to be recognized. The trip affords also an op- 
portunity to see close at hand the stupendous engineering 
work undertaken in the construction of the Los Angeles aque- 
duct (see Route 9). For automobilists there is no better juant 
than from Los Angeles northward through the Owens River 
Valley, by famed El Cam I no Sierra, which skirts the very base 
of the Sierras for most of its course. This new automobile 
boulevard is a part of the great system of improved highway 
projected to reach the varied scenic beauties of California's 
sea coast and mountains in one great "circular tour." This 
system, now being completed, is known as El Pasear 
(see map). It follows the same general course as the rail- 
road, though often through more rugged and picturesque re- 
gions, as the road is closer to the foothills of the Sierras. 

The originator of "The Pasear" is W. G. Scott, who is in- 
spired by a desire to develop the major touring opportunities 
of the state, not only as a source of pleasure to drivers of all 
sorts of vehicles, including farmers and merchants, as well as 
motorists, but also as a commercial asset to the common- 
wealth. This is on the theory that by inducing tourists to 



292 




THE 

PASEAR 



EL CAMINO REAL 
EL CAMINO SAN DIEOO 
EL CAMINO SIERRA 
EL CAMINO CAPITAL 



NOTE- DISTANCE Z0A7 MILCS 
*"' IN 22 C0UNTIC5 



visit a wide region of the interior many desirable people will 
be won as permanent home makers in California, thus adding 
to the prosperity of the country. The word Pasear in the 
courtly Spanish language has a graceful significance, meaning 
a walk or stroll abroad for recreation or entertainment. 

From Los Angeles the traveler by train reaches Mojave 
over the line described in the route just preceding this, Bak- 
ersfield to Los Angeles. From Mojave the line of the South- 
ern Pacific Railway Company running into Kern, Inyo and 
Mono Counties, and thence to Nevada, extends in a general 
northeasterly direction. The route runs from Mojave through 
Cinco (17), Garlock (15) and Goler (4) to Rand (5). This is 
in a rich gold-mining section, known as "the Rand," so named 
after the famous South African district. From Rand a daily 



293 

stage service runs to RANDSBURG (5), the center of the re- 
gion. The Yellow Aster mine here is one of the largest of 
the coast. It has produced over $5,000,000. Near the mine 
are extensive tungsten deposits v/hich are being worked. At 
Atolia, San Bernardino County, 4i/^ miles from Randsburg, 
is a great field of tungsten. The tungsten mine here is said 
to produce more of this peculiar and valuable mineral (used 
mainly in hardening steel) than any other mine in the world. 
From Johannesburg, a mining town near Randsburg, a branch 
line of the Santa Fe runs south into San Bernardino County 
through Atolia (4), St. Elmo (1) and Fremont (8) to Kra- 
mer (liVz). 

From Rand the line extends through Searles (7) and Rade- 
macher (5) to Brown (23), and thence into Inyo County at 
Linnie (4). The automobile road from Mojave runs to the 
west of the railroad through Ricardo (24i^), Dike Station 
(81/^), Freeman (7), to Indian Spring (7), near Brown, whence 
it follows the course of the railroad to Owens Lake. 

INYO COUNTT is the second largest in California, being 
exceeded in size only by San Bernardino County. The area 
is 10,019 square miles; the population in 1910 was 6,974. The 
topography is diversified, as is shown by the fact that Inyo 
county has the greatest elevation (Mount Whitney) and the 
lowest depression (Death Valley) in the United States. The 
Sierra Nevada runs the entire length of the county from 
north to south, the mountains here reaching their highest 
point. The railroad and the highway known as El Camino 
Sierra skirt the base of the mountains, making this one of the 
scenic routes of the West. The principal agricultural land 
in the county is in the Owens River Valley, but this is very 
fertile. Mining for gold and borax is carried on extensively, 
and there are also valuable marble quarries. Most of the 
eastern part of Inyo County is a succession of mountain 
ranges, with valleys between them, most of them occupied by 
the dry beds of former lakes. The mountains of the Sierra 
Nevada are capped by eternal snow, and their scenery is en- 
hanced by hundreds of lakes and great pine forests. There 
are a number of glaciers in action in these mountains. Hunt- 
ing and fishing are popular in this region, and many campers 
flock here in the summer months. In the loftier parts of the 
Sierras is one of the last refuges of big game — bear, deer, 
lynx, mountain lion and mountain sheep. The great Los An- 
geles aqueduct, far excelling in magnitude the celebrated 
aqueducts of the Romans, extends from the Owens river 
southward, to the west of the railroad. 

From Linnie the main route of travel runs northward 
through a desert region, with the Sierras on the west and the 



294 

Coso Mountains on the east. TTie railroad passes through the 
station of Narka (6), Little Lake (4), Mabel (3), Coso (4), 
Talus (41/^), Haiwee (4), Laco (41/^) to Olancha (5), on Owens 
Lake. Owens Lake has no outlet and its waters, like those of 
Mono Lake, are heavily impregnated with soda. 

From Olancha, the main route runs along the western side 
of Owens Lake to Lone Pine (27), one of the important towns 
in the southern part of Inyo County, and thence to Owenyo 
(4). From Owenyo a Southern Pacific line continues south- 
east through Mount Whitney station (4), Inyo (7%), Swansea 
(2) to Keeler (31/^). Roads run from Keeler southward, one 
along the eastern and southern shore of Owens Lake to Olan- 
cha and another to Darwin, in the Coso Valley. South of 
Darwin is Millspaugh (Junction), at the base of the Argus 
Mountains. From this point a road extends to Mountain 
Springs and thence into Kern County, at Rollie. East of 
Mountain Springs rises Argus Peak (6,333 feet). A second 
road from Millspaugh runs to Ballarat, in the Panamint Val- 
ley. East of the valley rise the Pinto and Panamint mountain 
ranges. 

At Lone Pine the auto road turns to the northwest and 
continues through the Owens Valley some miles from the 
railroad, though parallel with it. The Southern Pacific line 
runs from Owenyo through the stations of Francis (5i/^), 
Citrus (5), Aberdeen (14). Elna (7), Alvord (Gi/o), Black Can- 
yon (QVz), Bigelow (41/2) and Poleta (2) to Laws (3). From 
Laws a road runs to BISHOP, the principal town in Califor- 
nia east of the Sierras (see later). After passing Laws, the 
railroad continues into Mono county, reaching Chalfant (8). 
Mono County is described in a succeeding part of this route. 

The automobile road from Lone Pine (El Camino Sierra) 
runs through the richest pnrt of the Owens Valley. This 
valley is 100 miles long and is about 15 miles broad at its 
widest point. Its agricultural products are fruits, grain, 
vegetables and alfalfa. The green landscapes of the valley 
are a pleasant sight to the traveler after passing through the 
desert of neighboring country. 

Lone Pine is the most convenient place from which to 
ascend Mount Whitney (14,502 feet), the highest point in the 
United States. The best tim.e to make the ascent is in the 
summer, when the ice and snow have melted from the trails. 
On the summit is an observatory, conducted by the Smith- 
sonian Institution. The view from the top of Mount Whitney 
is one of the most remarkable in this region; from here 
one can look over the intervening mountain ranges into Death 
Valley — from the highest to the lowest point in the United 



295 

States. There are many peaks in this part of the Sierra 
scarcely inferior to Mount Whitney in size and grandeur. 
Among those to be seen from the liighway ar<^ Mounts Will- 
iamson, Kearsarge and I'om in Inyo County and Gillett Peak 
and Mount Morrison, farther north in Mono. 

The road from Lone Pine crosses the course of the Los An- 
geles aqueduct to Manzanar (10), continuing thence to Inde- 
pendence, the county seat of Inyo County. The township had 
a population of 702 in 1910. Three miles beyond Independence 
is old Fort Independence, and from there the road extends 
through Taboose (9) and Tinemaha (7^^) to Big Pine (6). 

BIG PINE, a community of 400 people, is beautifully sit- 
uated and surrounded by a rich farming and fruit-growing dis- 
trict. It is connected by road with Alvord, on the railroad (IV^ 
miles). One of the largest poultry ranches in the world is 
located three miles south of here. The elevation of Big Pine 
is about 4,000 feet above sea-level; to the west the snow- 
capped Sierras rise to an altitude of 10,000 feet more; to the 
east are the W^hite Mountains (Inyo Mountains). The town 
has excellent hotel accommodations. (Hotel Butler; see ad- 
vertising section). Big Pine is one of the leading points of de- 
parture for the picturesque regions of the High Sierras, many 
of the most wonderful parts of this "Switzerland of America" 
being accessible to tourists and sportsmen only from here. 
An experienced guide may be engaged at Big Pine (see ad- 
vertising pages). Tliere are a number of popular trips 
through the Sierras from here, one of them being over Kear- 
sarge Pass to Kings River, into a region described in a later 
portion of this book; this journey is usually made as a 15 
day outing trip from Big Pine. Another trip which is popular 
is that to Yosemite Valley from the east. Most tourists enter 
the Yosemite from the west, but to those who love Alpine 
scenery and delight in "camping out" in the Sierras, this route 
is at once novel and inspiring. On this trip are seen the 
headwaters of the San Joaquin and its magnificent falls, the 
Devil's Post Pile, Rush Creek, Tuolumne Meadows, Lake Ten- 
aya and the Big Trees. Above Big Pine tower the Giant 
Palisades of the Sierra and in their deep canyons are great 
glaciers. The Palisade Glacier is the largest in the United 
States, outside of Alaska. These remarkable natural features 
are reached by trail from Big Pine; the glaciers lie in the 
highest part of the range above the Big Pine Lakes. Accessi- 
ble from here are the Arrow Creek Falls, considered to be 
among the most picturesque in the Sierras; near the falls 
are many fine lakes and streams. Among the shorter journeys 
from Big Pine is that up Big Pine Canyon, with its torrential 



29fi 

stream heading in crystal mountain lakes; it is noted for its 
beauty and is popular with summer campers. In fact the 
entire mountain region above the tov/n is a well-known camp- 
ing ground, there being depots for provisions, camping out- 
fits and sporting goods in Big Pine, as well as a garage where 
those touring El Camino Sierra by automobile can store their 
cars for a few days and take a pleasant 'side trip into the 
wonderland of California (see advertising pages). For the 
sportsman, no region surpasses these mountains; the hunter 
and the angler alike may ply their arts with assurance of 
success. From Big Pine the Midland Trail, a transcontinental 
motorroute from New York by way of Denver, Salt Lake City, 
Ely, Tonopah, Goldfield and Westgard Pass, effects a junction 
with EI Camino Sierra in the Pasear. 

TTie route runs from Big Pine, 17 miles to the north. 
BISHOP, the largest community in Inyo County, had a popu- 
lation of 1,190 in 1910; at present there are over 1,500 inhab- 
itants. An electric line is being constructed connecting 
Bishop with Laws, on the railroad, six miles to the east. 
The little city has an excellent high school and a number of 
grammar schools. It is a usual halting place for automobile 
parties touring El Camino Sierra and has two good garages 
(see advertising pages). There are excellent hotel accom- 
modations at Hotel Istalia (see advertising pages). Around 
the city there are many points of scenic interest; there are a 
number of trails into the Sierras which reach some of the 
most magnificent highland regions on the continent. Favor- 
ite camping sites are situated above Bishop, and in the city 
are depots where supplies, sporting goods and camping out- 
fits can be secured (see advertising pages). From Bishop, 
El Camino Sierra continues along the base of the Sierras into 
Mono County (see below), while another road follows the 
course of the railroad. 

Soon after passing Laws the railroad crosses into southern 
Mono County, running through the stations of Rammil, Ben- 
ton and Queen. The Nevada state boundary lies just beyond 
the latter place. The route continues by way of Hazen to 
Reno, whence the central part of Mono County and the re- 
markable Mono Lake are reached. 

MONO COUNTY lies on the eastern slope of the Sierra 
Nevada, the area being 3,032 square miles. The population in 
1910 was 2,042. Mono is an Indian word meaning "beautiful." 
The principal industries of Mono County are mining and the 
raising of cattle and sheep. 

TTie towns of Bridgeport and Bodie, in the central part of 
Mono County are most easily reached by way of Nevada. 



297 

BRIDGEPORT, the county seat, is an old town situated at the 
end of the Sonora Pass over the Sierras. The population in 
1910 was 312. It is on the route of the scenic El Camino 
Sierra, the road passing along the west shore of Mono Lake 
near the base of the Sierras. Prom Bridgeport a road, though 
not in excellent condition, leads to Bodie, a mining town, 
which is the center of a large mineral region. (Occidental 
Hotel, $2; United States Hotel, $1.) From Bodie a railroad 
(B. & C. R. R.) runs southeast to the lumber camp of Mono 
Mill, passing Mono Lake. 

Mono Lake, the "Dead Sea of America," is one of the most 
• remarkable bodies of water on the continent and the region 
about is of great interest to tourists. The lake is situated in 
a large basin, with no outlet, and hence is extremely alkaline. 
It is about eight miles across; its surface is 1S7 feet higher 
than that of Lake Tahoe. In the center are two islands, one 
black, the other white, which are subjects of Indian legend. 
These islands are of volcanic origin and are composed entirely 
of lava; there are hot mud springs on the black island. Thou- 
sands of seagulls swarm about these islands, though the lake 
is 300 miles inland from the Pacific. 

The Mono Lake region is rendered interesting from its 
associations connected with Mark Twain, who spent several 
months here, and embodied his adventures, real and imagin- 
ary, in "Roughing It." All this territory has long been consid- 
ered a strange, mysterious country, due to the desert-like 
terrain and the volcanic character of the mountains. It 
abounds in salt pools, alkali, volcanic table-lands, hot and min- 
eral springs, geysers and extinct craters. There are many 
signs hereabout of recent volcanic action. On the northern 
shore oi: Mono Lake are open earthquake fissures, while to the 
south there is a group of mountains known as the Mono 
Craters, in whose neighborhood it is noticeably warmer than 
in the surrounding region; the snow melts quickly from the 
summits of these mountains in winter. These craters are 
noted among scientists because of the perfection of their 
formation. The desert about is littered with obsidian (vol- 
canic glass) and pumice. 

From near Mono Lake trails and stage roads lead west 
into the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and it would be worth 
while for the tourist to make some of the side trips into this 
region. For mountain climbers the ascent of Mt. Dana, the 
highest peak in this vicinity, is recommended. This peak, 
named after Professor J. D. Dana, the eminent American 
geologist, is 13,627 feet above sea-level. From the summit an 
impressive view can be gained, to the north and south the 



298 

Sierras, and to the east, 7,000 feet below, lies Mono Lake, The 
exact height of Mt, Dana above the lake is 7,215 feet, and the 
horizontal distance only 6 miles, so that the ascent is over 
1,200 to the mile. On the western and southern slopes of Mt. 
Dana the traces of glacial action are plainly discernible. 
Other high peaks in Mono county, besides Mt. Dana, are Mt. 
Lyell (13,627 feet) and Castle Peak (13,000 feet). 

Along the attractive route of El Camino Sierra, southwa-^d 
from Bridgeport, there are many things well worth seeing. 
The Tioga Pass leads from this route over the mountains 30 
miles to the Yosemite; the road is to be available for automo- , 
bile travel. The pass is known for the grandeur of its scen- 
ery. Another side trip is to beautiful Grant and Silver Lakes, 
where there is excellent fishing. The main route runs through 
Mammoth, whence a trip should be taken to the interesting 
formations known as the Minarets and the Devil's Post Pile. 
Another side trip from this place is to the deserted settle- 
ment known as "Mammoth City," a former mining camp. 
Nearby are the Twin Lakes and Lake Mary, sources of the 
Owens River. From Mammoth the route passes near the gey- 
ser called La Casa Diablo (The Devil's House), through Long 
Valley, Little Round Valley, Round Valley, Pleasant Valley, 
to the town of Bishop, Inyo County. 

North of Mono County is ALPINE COUNTY, now reached 
by automobile roads from Jackson and Angels. The roads 
from both these places connect with Tallac, on Lake Tahoe. 
The area of Alpine County is 776 square miles; the population 
in 1910 was 309, the smallest of any county in the state. Its 
isolated situation has hitherto prevented its development, 
though there are valuable natural resources, especially in min- 
erals, timber and water power. The county has no railroads. 
Alpine lies in the heart of the Sierras, and as its name im- 
plies, it is renowned for its lofty peaks, between which are 
many beautiful valleys. Through these run clear trout 
streams into numerous mountain lakes or rush down rugged 
canyons in rapids, cataracts and waterfalls. The scenic feat- 
ures of the county are unsurpassed. This wonderful region is 
now accessible to automobilists and tourists over the newly- 
established Alpine State Highway, which was opened for au- 
tomobile travel late in 1912. This road not only connects 
Lake Tahoe with the Big Trees, but also with Silver Lake, 
Caples Lake, Woods Lake, Highland Lakes, East and West 
Carson River and many other picturesque streams and lakes, 
all abounding with trout. The Blue Lakes, though not on the 
State Highway, are ideally located and swarm with game 
fish. In addition to the Alpine State Highway, many 



299 

other roads and trails are being opened to travel, among 
which may be mentioned the Sierra Bridle Trail, from Yosem- 
ite to Tahoe, this trail being well established most of the way- 
through Alpine County, and it will be finished from Highland 
Lakes to Pickle Meadows, which is the only remaining link 
undeveloped. 



33. Los Angeles to San Bernardino 

This route is the first part of that followed by those trav- 
elers leaving the state by way of Arizona. San Bernardino is 
reached from Los Angeles by three railroads, the Southern 
Pacific. Santa Fe (Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe) and Salt 
Lake Route (Los Angeles, San Pedro and :5alt Lake Rail- 
road). All three of these follow the same general route; in 
order to avoid repetition, the central route (that of the South- 
ern Pacific) will be followed in the accompanying descrip- 
tion; the country passed through is identical in character on 
all the routes, and all reach the principal cities. An outline 
of the other routes is appended. Still another way to reach 
San Bernardino from Los Angeles is by way of the Santa Fe 
lines through Fullerton, Corona and Riverside. This is de- 
scribed as a side trip from the main route in Section b under 
this section. 

TTie route of the Santa Fe from Los Angeles runs east- 
ward through Raym.ond (8), Pasadena (2), Lamanda Park 
(3), Santa Anita (2), Monrovia (4), Duarte (1), Azusa (4), 
Glendora (7), San Dimas (4), Lordsburg (2), North Pomona 
(2), Claremont (1), Upland (5), Cucamonga (3), Rochester 
(2), Etiwanda (1), Wade (1), Rosena (4) and Rialto (4) to 
the city of San Bernardino (4). 

The Salt Lake Route lines run from Los Angeles through 
Newmark (9), Pico (1), Rowland (]0), Walnut (4), Pomona 
(8), Narod (3), Ontario (3), Wineville (8), Pedley (4), River- 
side (8), Highgrove (3), and Colton (4) to San Bernar- 
dino (3). 

The line of the Southern Pacific from Los Angeles extends 
through Shorb (7), the junction point for Pasadena, to Alham- 
bra, a pretty residence town in the San Gabriel Valley. This 
valley, ten miles broad and 70 miles long, is the great orange 
belt of Southern California, though the citrus fruits thrive 
well in other regions. From Alhambra the train passes San 
Gabriel (2) close by the old mission (described in the side 
trips under Route 9). Near here is Covina, a large shipping 



300 

point icr oranges and also the center of the berry district of 
Los Angeles County. From San Gabriel the route passes 
through Savanna (2), Monte (1), Bassett (3), Puente (4), 
Walnut (6), and Spadra (4), all towns in the orange belt, 
reaching the city of Pomona (3). 

POMONA, one of the most thriving cities of Southern Cal- 
ifornia, is situated in the fertile Pomona Valley, adjoining the 
San Gabriel Valley on the east. (Hotel Oxford, $1 up.) For 
miles on every side of the city extend continuous groves of 
oranges, lemons, apricots, peaches, prunes, olives and other 
fruits, which have made the prosperity of the city secure. 
Pomona has attractive homes and many parked residence 
streets, making it one of the prettiest communities in this re- 
gion. The San Gabriel Canyon, above the city, is a pictur- 
esque spot which is a favorite resort of picnickers. The pop- 
ulation of Pomona is 12,-500. North of Ponoma is CLARE- 
MONT, a little city situated in the orange belt. (Claremont 
Inn, A. P. $2.50 up.) This is the seat of Pomona College, an 
institution with many attractive and substantial buildings, sit- 
uated in a large canjpus. The college is non-sectarian and 
has over 400 students. North of the city, running east and 
west, are the Sierra Madre Mountains, with snow-capped 
Mount San Antonio ("Old Baldy"), with an altitude of 11,000 
feet, looming above the range. The country about Pomona and 
Claremont is particularly beautiful; splendid panoramic views 
are had from Ganesha Park, Indian Hill and Oak Knoll. From 
Pomona the railroad runs into San Bernardino County, reach- 
ing Chino (6). 

SAN BERNARDINO COUNTY is the largest county in area 
in California, and also the largest county in the United States. 
It covers 20,157 square miles in area, or one-eighth of the sur- 
face of the state. It is almost equal in area to Massachusetts, 
New Jersey and Connecticut combined; it would make twenty 
Rhode Islands. There is a great variety of climate and scen- 
ery in the county; the arid deserts of the north and east are 
shut off from the fertile valleys of the southwest by a barri- 
cade of mountains whose peaks are the highest in Southern 
California. The trend of the range is from the southeast to 
the northwest. Much of the northeastern part of San Bernar- 
dino County is at present unreclaimed desert, and although 
great development of water resources is going on in hitherto 
uncultivated regions, some of it will remain so for years to 
come. The rest of the area of the county is fertile, however, 
especially the southwestern corner, where most of the pop- 
ulation is centered. San Bernardino County had 56,706 inhab- 
itants in 1910; in 1900 there were 27,929 people. The agricul- 
tural resources of the county are as varied as its topography 



301 

and climate. First of all, it is the home of the orange, and 
citrus fruits are shipped from San Bernardino at all seasons 
of the year. Besides the production of oranges, there is a 
great output of other agricultural products. These include de- 
ciduous fruits, wine, raisin and table grapes, sugar beets, 
alfalfa and vegetables. T'he area planted in apples is being in- 
creased, certain sections of the highland regions growing ap- 
ples which equal those of other parts of the Pacific Coast, 
especially adapted to the production of this fruit. The larg- 
est valley of the county is the San Bernardino Valley, protect- 
ed against the winds of the desert by a horse-shoe rim of 
rugged mountains; the elevation of the valley floor is from 
1,500 to 2,400 feet. 

After passing through Chino, a little city of 1,750, whose 
chief resource is the growing of sugar beets and their man- 
ufacture into sugar, the railroad reaches Ontario (1). 

ONTARIO is a beautiful community founded as a "model 
city" by Canadians from the province of Ontario. (Hotel 
Royal, A. P. $2 to $2.50.) Lying at an elevation varying from 
900 to 2,000 feet on a pleateau at the base of the Sierra Madre, 
its natural situation is remarkable, and much has been done 
by man to add to the charm of the place. Ontario is a 
thriving center of industry. The population of Ontario is 
4,500. There are fine parks and boulevards, the most famous 
of which is Euclid avenue, two hundred feet broad, connecting 
the city with the neighboring community of Upland. The big 
avenue is divided by trees into two driveways and the 
tracks of the electric road running to the foot of the mountains 
are upon it. Ontario is a delightful city of homes, with a 
number of important industrial interests as well. The sur- 
rounding territory grows citrus and deciduous fruits; the 
orange is the chief production. UPLAND, a city of 4,000 
inhabitants, is situated north of her sisrer community of 
Ontario. There are many comfortable homes in this well- 
built orchard center; 3,000 acres of citrus fruit grow within 
the city limits and the streets are bordered with trees and 
flowers. Upland shares with Ontario excellent boulevards, and 
the two cities together maintain the Chaffey Union High 
School (cost, $300,000), M'^hich is one of the largest and best 
in all of California; the high school is surrounded by a well- 
kept campus. 

From Ontario the Southern Pacific line runs through 
Guasti (4) to Etiwa (4), whence is reached Etiwanda, a pros- 
perous town on the Foothill Boulevard in a district raising 
chiefly grapes and deciduous fruits. The railroad continues 
through Decles (2) to Bloomington (5). This town is on the 
edge of the orange belt and the tributary region has a wide di- 



302 

versity of products; the principal are olives, citrus and decidu- 
ous fruits, alfalfa and grapes. Near here are large cement 
works. 

From Bloomington is reached COLTON (4), an important 
manufacturing city and railroad junction point. (Davenport 
House, $2; Hotel Anderson, A, P. $2.50 up, E. P. $1 up.) Among 
the chief manufactures are cement, fertilizer, flour and poultry 
teed. There are marble quarries here, and at Slover Mountain, 
near the city, are the works of the California Portland Cement 
Company, turning out 3,50'0 barrels of cement a day. Colton 
is the lunction point for Riverside, described in Section a un- 
der this route, San Bernardino to Riverside. Three transcon- 
tinental railroads pass through the city. The population is 
3,500. From Colton the railroad reaches the city of San Ber- 
nardino, four miles to the east. 

SAN BERNARDINO, county seat of the division of the 
state known by the same name, is a thriving city of 18,000 
people and is rapidly growing. (The Stewart, A. P. $2.50 up; 
New Sunset Hotel, E. P. 75 cents to $2.50.) In 1910 the num- 
ber of inhabitants was 12,779; a decade before there were 6,150 
people in San Bernardino. The city is essentially commercial 
and there are large manufacturing interests. At San Bernar- 
dino are situated the Southern California shops of the Santa 
Fe Railroad, which employ 1,000 men. One of the largest 
pre-cooling plants in existence is situated here, icing and pre- 
cooling 25,000 cars of fruit annually. There are a great many 
other industrial concerns, including machine shops, foun- 
dries and lumber yards. Among the most attractive public 
buildings are the Court House and the City Library. The 
residence sections of the city are attractive and well shaded. 
There are two city parks, besides excellent boulevards, which 
run in all directions. The history of the city begins with 
3 810, when a chapel was built by the padres of San Gabriel 
at a spot between San Bernardino and Colton. A capilla, 
dedicated at the centennial of the first settlement, marks 
this place. The chapel was destroyed by Indians, and its site 
was later removed to near Redlands, where its ruins may be 
seen today. 

There are many delightful side trips about San Bernardino, 
including visits to the nearby cities of Riverside and Red- 
lands, two of the most charming cities of California. No tour- 
ist should leave California without seeing these communities, 
for they are among the best situated and the best built in the 
state. Riverside is described in Section a under this route, 
while Redlands is described in Section c. The city of San Ber- 



303 

nardino is a health center of note; in the surrounding region 
there are many hot springs and resorts. TTie great Arrowhead 
Hot Springs are located seven miles north of San Bernardino 
at an elevation of about 2,000 feet. Directly under the point 
of the arrow, emblazoned on the mountain-side and famed in 
Indian legendry, are the hotel and completely equipped bath- 
house. (Hotel rates, $3 to $5.) There are in all 34 hot water 
springs ranging in temperature from 180 degrees to 202 de- 
grees Fahrenheit. The baths are of three kinds — steam, water 
and mud; natural steam caves with an aii temperature of 210 
degrees are remarkable features of the vicinity. Other springs 
in the region surrounding San Bernardino are Rabel, Harlem 
and Urbita Hot Springs. Urbita Springs Park, situated IVz 
miles from the city, is a popular recreation resort. It pos- 
sesses a plunge, a natural lake upon which there is boating, a 
baseball ground, picnic grounds, many amusement concessions 
and a children's playground. In the summer San Bernardino 
and Redlands are the starting points for resorts in the San 
Bernardino Mountains, such as Bear Valley, Little Bear Valley, 
Squirrel Inn, Fredalba Park and the Lytle Creek resorts. 
These retreats in the mountain fastnesses and the upper foot- 
hills can be reached from the cities within half a day. 

An interesting trip by the lines of the Pacific Electric 
system may be made through the orange groves around San 
Bernardino. The city is widely known as a center of the 
orange-growing industry of Southern California. Every win- 
ter it holds the National Orange Show, which attracts the at- 
tention of the world upon San Bernardino Valley as an all* 
the-year-round orange producing region. The Foothill Boule- 
vard, an automobile route which connects the principal towns 
of the valley with Los Angeles, affords an opportunity for the 
motorist to travel for miles through the groves. One of the 
most celebrated of the large citrus regions is the Rialto- 
Fontana section, west of San Bernardino, and there are sev- 
eral others of almost equal note. 

(a) San Bernardino to Riverside 

From San Bernardino the traveler may reach Riverside by 
the lines of the Southern Pacific, Santa Fe or Salt Lake 
Route, as well as by the Pacific Electric system. The trip by 
the Southern Pacific is to Colton (4) and thence to HIGH- 
GROVE (Hotel Gleason, $1), (3). This delightful foothill 
town, in Riverside County (whose resources and general feat- 
ures are described in the next paragraph), is enjoying a 
rapid growth, owing to the beauty of its location and the 



304 



P A C. I F 




(is E) 
of tl 



COPYRIGHT. !9I3 BY 
PANAMA PACIFJC INTERNAllONAt. EXPOSITION CO. 



PANAMA PACIFIC INTCF 

SAN FR^'XNCi 



General View of the Panama^ 
San Francisco,; 



opportunities it presents the agriculturist. Oranges, lemons, 
hay and grain are the principal products of the surrounding 
region. From here the railroad runs southwest to the city 
of Riverside (3). 

RIVERSIDE COUNTY, one of the largest in California, 
is about 200 miles long by 40 miles wide, and embraces most 
varied geographical and topographical features, climate, scen- 
ery, soil, agricultural, horticultural and mineral resources. 
The area is 7,240 square miles. Vv'hile the progress of the 
county has been practically confined to its northwestern cor- 
ner, which embraces one of the largest orange-growing dis- 
tricts in the world, and is supplied by one of the best and most 
complete irrigating systems in the state, the entire western 
portion is being brought under cultivation from the rapid de- 



305 



n C E A N 



^^^m^ 




■r 



''i ^ 



V or 






ONAL EXPOSITION 

1915 



)ific International Exposition 
> (see page 59) 



velopment of artesian wells. The central and the greater 
part of the eastern portion of the county is desert, but known 
to be heavily mineralized with almost every known mineral — 
gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, tin, borax, soda, nitrates, etc. 
As transportation facilities increase, mining will become one 
of the leading features of the county. Three transcontinental 
railroads — the Southern Pacific, Santa Fe and Salt Lake 
Route — cross Riverside County. The population of Riverside 
County in 1910 was 34,696. 

The beautiful city of RIVERSIDE, the county seat, with 
a population of 18,000 and an area of 56 square miles, is set 
in the beautiful and fertile Santa Ana "Valley, surrounded by 
hills, and is justly popular with tourists. The architecture of 
the city's public buildings is especially impressive, and is 



306 

mainly along the distinctive California mission lines. The 
City Public Library, the Federal building and the Glen- 
wood Mission Inn occupy three of the four corners of River- 
side's civic center. The plan includes a city hall for the 
other corner, soon to be erected in a similar style of archi- 
tecture. The city high school is another handsome building, 
situated in the center of a park, occupying an entire block. In 
a similar park, surrounded by lawns and flower gardens, is 
the Riverside County Court House. For the amount which it 
cost, it has been declared to be one of the most beautiful in 
the nation. While not in the mission architecture, it har- 
monizes well with the other public structures. The building 
of which the city of Riverside is most proud, however, is 
the Gtenwood Mission Inn, one of the most famed hotels in 
the world. TTie architecture of the Inn is unique and admir- 
able, with its marvelous adaptation of arch and colonnade, 
flagged floors and low-beamed roof. The details have been 
carried out with scrupulous care and remarkable skill; all of 
the woodwork, the furniture and furnishings of the rooms a,re 
exact reproductions of monastic designs and some of them are 
genuine relics. The Mission Inn follows closely the lines of 
the old missions, being built around a spacious patio filled 
with trees and flowers, wide, cool porticos, high bell-towers, 
tiled floors and arched cloisters. There is at the Inn a splen- 
did collection of historical antiquities. Most interesting of all 
is the old orange tree in the patio. This is one of the two 
irees from which sprung' by a process of grafting their buds 
on other stock, all the navel orange trees in California, over 
7,000,000 of them, representing a value of at least $40,000,000. 
The tree was brought from Bahia, Brazil, in 1870, and planted 
in Riverside three years later; it is still bearing. This orange 
tree was transplanted to the patio of the Mission Inn by Pres- 
ident Roosevelt in 1903. TTie other original Bahia orange tree 
is on Magnolia avenue, Riverside. Riverside's great industry 
is the cultivation of oranges and lemons. The city is the 
greatest orange-growing center in the world, the annual pro- 
duction being over 6,000 carloads, or 2,000,000 boxes. River- 
side is not entirely dependent on the citrus fruits, however; 
more than 10,0'00 acres of the tributary region about the city 
are profitably planted to alfalfa, while sm.all farms and dairies 
are numerous. 

About the city are a number of beauty spots, famous 
the world over for their attractiveness. First among 
them is Mount Rubidoux, which stands on the western boun- 
dary of the city. Across this mountain General Fremont, the 
Pathfinder, made his way on one of his exploring expeditions. 
It is linked historically to the days of the Mission Fathers, 



307 

who passed its base on their travels from one mission to an- 
other. The greatest of the Padres. Father Junipero Serra, is 
remembered by the cross erected on the summit of the mount. 
There is an automobile road to the top ol. the mountain, 
which is one of the finest pieces of automobile road in the 
world. From the summit the traveler overlooks the city of 
Riverside with its thousands of acres of orange groves on the 
one side; on the other side, thousands of acres of rich farm- 
ing land in the broad Santa Ana River basin, and, surrounding 
all and framing the picture, are the rugged ranges of moun- 
tains, snow-capped during a large part of the year. On a tab- 
let set into a boulder, at a sharp turn in the drive, is the fol- 
lowing passage from the works of John Muir: "Climb the 
mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow 
into you as sunshine flows into the trees. The winds will blow 
their own freshness into you and the storms their energy; 
while cares will drop off like autumn leaves." At the sum- 
mit of the mountain, opposite the memorial Serra cross, is a 
tablet of bronze, unveiled by President Taft on his visit to 
Riverside in 1909, and on the tablet the wording: "Fra Juni- 
pero Serra, Apostle, Legislator, Builder. To commemorate his 
good works this tablet is here placed. Unveiled by William 
Hov/ard Tafc, twenty-seventh president of the United States, 
October 12, A. D. 1909." 

Another point of interest in Riverside is the Sherman Insti- 
tute, the United States Government Indian School, one of the 
leading institutions of its kind in the country. The institute 
is situated on Magnolia avenue, adjacent to Arlington. 

WEST RIVERSIDE, across the Santa Ana River from Riv- 
erside, is an enterprising settlement even older than River- 
side. Here are some of the old mission adobe buildings built 
at the time when the Indians used to come out of the San 
Bernardino mountains and the Mojave desert and make raids 
on the cattle of the Mexican residents. One of the houses was 
built as a fort for protection from these raids. Oranges are 
grown successfully on the higher lands about West Riverside. 
Alfalfa growing and dairying are flourishing industries, and 
one of the largest wineries in the state is located here. Near 
West Riverside, at Crestmore, are located large cement works. 

The hotels of Riverside are the Glen wood Mission Inn, A. 
P.; Anchorage Hotel, $3 up; Hotel Holyrood, A. P. $2, E. P. 75 
cents up; Hotel Reynolds, E. P. 75 cents to $1.50. 

There are a number of very attractive side trips from 
Riverside into the interior of the county. Among the places 



308 

of particular interest reached from here are Lake Elsinore 
and San Jacinto. The side trips may he found later under 
this route, being grouped as follows: (d) Riverside to San 
Jacinto; (e) Riverside to Lake Elsinore. 

(b) Los Angeles to Riverside 

Prom Los Angeles a route of the Santa Fe system reaches 
Riverside by way of Fullerton and Corona. From Riverside 
it connects with the other line of the Santa Fe to San Ber- 
nardino by way of Colton. 

The line runs from Los Angeles to Fullerton (see Route 
10) and thence continues eastward through Placentia (3) to 
Richfield (2). A branch line leads from here southwest 
through Olive (2) to Orange (3). From Richfield the route 
continues towards Riverside, passing along the Santa Ana 
Canyon through Yorba (1) to Gypsum (8) and thence crosses 
from Orange County into Riverside County, reaching Prado 
(5). From here the railroad extends to Corona. 

CORONA is the second city of Riverside County in point 
of population, having 3,540 inhabitants in 1910; the growth 
since then has been steady. Corona is known as "the city 
that is different," because it is built along unique lines — the 
city is laid out in a circle and is surrounded by an immense 
circular boulevard, three miles in circumference and 100' feet 
wide. This is exceedingly popular with automobilists and is 
one of the finest boulevards in California. 

Corona has the distinction of being the largest individual 
shipping point for lemons in the United States, though as a 
county San Diego County ranks first. There are about 6,000 
acres of citrus fruit in the colony, with many thousand acres 
in addition devoted to alfalfa and barley. . There are eleven 
large fruit-packing houses, as well as a number of other im- 
portant industrial establishments. The city has handsome 
public buildings, including the fine high school and the 
city library, both following classic lines of architecture. 
The new city hall is another modern and attractive structure. 
There are six small rest-parks in the city and a large recrea- 
tion park of 18 acres, within a half-mile of the center of the 
city. Tlie mountains to the south of the city are rich in min- 
erals which promise in the near fature to prove a further 
source of wealth to the city. The heights and canyons of the 
Santa Ana Mountains, easily reached from Corona, are pleas- 
ure grounds for lovers of nature. 



309 

From Corona the line of the Santa Fe extends east through 
Alvord (4) to Arlington (4). Victoria avenue and Magnolia 
avenue, connecting Arlington with Riverside, are two of the 
most beautiful country drives in the world. Although Ar- 
lington is embraced within the corporate boundaries of River- 
side, it has a distinctive individuality. Street cars connect 
with Riverside. Within the municipal limits is embraced Ar- 
lington Heights district, with several thousand acres of orange 
and lemon groves. Here is one of the largest and most mod- 
ern orange and lemon packing houses in the world. From Ar- 
lington the route extends northeast, ihrough Casa Blanca (2) 
and Pachappa (2) to the city of Riverside (3). 

(c) San Bernardino to Redlands 

The city of Redlands may be reached from San Bernar- 
dino by the Santa Fe (Kite-Shaped Track), the Pacific Elec- 
tric lines and the San Bernardino-Redlands motor line in 
connection with the Southern Pacific. From Los Angeles a 
Southern Pacific line runs to Redlands by way of Pomona, 
Colton and Grafton. On this route, three miles from Colton, 
is Loma Linda, where the well-known sanitarium of the same 
name is located. 

REDLANDS, one of the most beautiful cities of Califor- 
nia, is situated in the foothills at the extreme eastern end 
of the San Bernardino Valley, in sight of Mount San Gor- 
gonio, Mount San Jacinto and Mount San Bernardino, the 
highest in that part of the state. The elevation of 
the business section above sea-level is 1,350 feet, but in the 
eastern part of the city the altitude is over 2,000 feet. The 
chief charm of Redlands is as a residence city; in the sur- 
rounding territory are thousands of acres of oranges, which 
make the city a notable shipping point for citrus fruit. The 
population at the present time is 12.500; in 1910 there were 
10,449 inhabitants. Redlands was incorporated in 1S88. 

To the tourist the city is especially charming. Tlie resi- 
dences are noted for their tasteful and varied architecture 
and their grounds are filled with a luxuriant growth of 
flowers and semi-tropic shrubs and trees. The streets are 
broad and well kept; there are a number of excellent boule- 
vards, as automobiling is popular about Redlands, the city 
having more automobiles per capita than any other commun- 
ity in California. Notable boulevards are the McKinley, 
Sunset, Alessandro and Park-to-Park drives. The appear- 
ance of the city is beautified with a number of parks. The 



310 

finest of these is Canyon Crest Park, widely known as Smiley- 
Heights. Though private property, this is open to the public 
at all times. This tract of 400 acres presents one of the 
most remarkable developments of ibe art of the landscape 
gardener to be seen anywhere. The park is situated on the 
crest of the canyon which divides Redlands from the pass on 
the south; the setting has been declared by travelers as 
equal to that of any gardens in the world. In the canyons 
and on the sloping hillsides grow great varieties of rare trop- 
ical and semi-tropical trees, vines, shrubs and flowers; there 
are many different kinds of palms. Tliroughout the park run 
shady roads and paths which make accessible its remotest 
parts. Another fine private park in Redlands which is open 
to the public is Prospect Park, containing beautiful trees and 
fiowers and a splendid driveway. Alessandro Park affords un- 
excelled views over the city and its orange groves. The 
city owns two plazas, Smiley Park and Library Park, both 
near the business center. In the northeastern section of Red- 
lands is a new park and public playground, occupying twenty- 
two acres. 

The public buildings of Redlands are notable. The A. K. 
Smiley Library, an imposing structure of the Mission type, 
has a collection of 22,928 volumes; the library contains the 
Lucy Abbott Putnam collection of beautiful photographs. 
The group of three high school buildings contains one of the 
best-equipped preparatory educational institutions in the 
state; the largest structure is devoted to the purely academic 
courses, while in the other two are taught domestic and fine 
arts and manual arts. The University of Redlands occupies 
a handsome group of buildings located in a commanding posi- 
tion on University Hill. The campus contains 63 acres, fac- 
ing the snow-capped mountains. When completed the build- 
ings will number 15, the total outlay being over $500,0'00. 
There are more than 200 students enrolled. 

The hotels of Redlands are the Casa Loma, A. P. $4 up; 
Wissahickon Inn, A. P. $2.50 up; Hill Crest Inn, A. P. $2 up, 
E. P. $1 up; Vendome; Oxford; Alvarado; El Hogar. 

Many attractive side trips may be made from the city. 
Among the trips occupying a day are those to Urbita Hot 
Springs (see under Riverside); Oak Glen and Yucaipa Val- 
ley, a celebrated apple-growing region, 16 miles to the south- 
east; Banning and the Indian reservation, 24 miles; Loma 
Linda Sanitarium, 4 miles; Arrowhead Springs, 16 miles; 
Riverside, 14 miles; Forest Home and Mill Creek Canyon, 16 
miles. Among the mountain resorts located within easy 
reach of Redlands, at distances of from 10 to 25 miles, are 



311 

Bear Valley, Bluff l^ake, Seven Oaks, Skinner's and Santa Ana 
Canyon. Nearly all are reached by automobile roads and in 
the summer stages run into the mountains. 



( d ) Riverside to San Jacinto 

From Riverside a branch line of the Santa Fe runs south 
through Box Springs (7) and Allessandro (3) to FERRIS (8). 
This busy and prosperous community lies close to the hills 
at the western edge of the great Perris Valley (one of the 
largest in Southern California, being 20 miles long and al- 
most 10 miles wide). The shipping center for this entire 
area, Perris has varied activities, for the agricultural prod- 
ucts are as many as any one desires to plant — the soil of the 
valley being adapted to almost any crop. Alfalfa and grain 
are the principal productions at present. At Perris the line 
of the Santa Fe branches, one route extending to San Jacinto 
(19) and the other reaching Elsinore and Temecula (26), de- 
scribed in Section e following. 

The San Jacinto branch runs through the towns of Ethan- 
ac (3), Menifee (3) and Winchester (4), to HEMET (7). Sit- 
uated near the base of the towering San Jacinto Mountains, 
at an elevation of 1,600 feet, the town of Hemet is note- 
worthy because of its invigorating atmosphere and the scenic 
grandeur of its surroundings. TTie rich Hemet Valley is one 
of the best supplied with water of any in Southern Califor- 
nia. Oranges, alfalfa, peaches, apricots, walnuts and olives 
are grown for market, and Hemet potatoes are famous 
through the Southland for size and quality. The people de- 
clare the valley is shaped like a four-leafed clover. The great 
Hemet Dam, above the town, at an elevation of 4,400 feet, is 
a point of remarkable interest. The largest piece of solid 
masonry in the "West, it is 250 feet long, 100 thick and 122 
feet high, as tall as an ordinary ten-story skyscraper. It is 
filled with pure mountain water from the snows of the San 
Jacinto Mountains. There are more than three hundred 
miles of ditches, flumes and pipes used in the distribution of 
the water of Lake Hemet. 

From Hemet the line extends north to San Jacinto (2), the 
terminus. SAN JACINTO, situated at the base of the moun- 
tain of the same name, is one of the oldest towns in the 
state. The growing of alfalfa and dairying are the principal 
industries of the surrounding region, but deciduous and cit- 



312 

rus fruit are also grown on a large scale. The production 
of lime of commerce for shipping is another great industrial 
asset. Near San Jacinto also is an ostrich-breeding ranch 
and stock farm, with over 1,000 birds, a branch establish- 
ment of the Cawston Ostrich Farm of Pasadena. 

San Jacinto is said to have a greater variety of mineral 
and medicinal springs than any other place in Southern Cal- 
ifornia. There are lithia and hot sulphur springs for baths, 
with accompanying mud for extreme cases of skin, rheumatic 
and internal diseases. Hot and cold, they are all declared 
highly medicinal and remedial in their effect. 

The landscape of the San Jacinto region is distinctive 
in California. It is very heavily wooded, resembling the Mid- 
dle West, with its beautiful rolling slopes and groves. Prac- 
tically every foot of the valley can be cultivated. Near San 
Jacinto is the Indian village of Soboba, around which were 
enacted many of the scenes of Helen Hunt Jackson's rO' 
mance, "Ramona," 

Reached by stage from San Jacinto is the popular moun- 
tain resort and camping ground of Idyllwild, situated on the 
side of Mt. San Jacinto. From here there are picturesque 
trails to Tahquitz Peak, Lily Rock, Tamarack Valley, Painted 
Indian Rock, Sunset Peak, Idyllwild Point and other places 
of scenic interest, all reached by delightful tramps. PYe- 
quent excursions are made to San Jacinto Peak (10,803 feet), 
whence a wonderful view is obtained. A good scenic auto- 
mobile road from Idyllwild to Banning has been completed 
recently. 



(e) Riverside to Lake Elsinore 

The route from Riverside to Perris is the same as that 
described in the preceding side trip. From Perris the El- 
sinore and Temecula branch of the Santa Fe runs southwest 
to Elsinore (14). 

ELSINORE, a thriving town of ever 1,000, is situated on 
the northeastern shore of beautiful Lake Elsinore, the only 
permanent fresh water lake in Southern California. Lake 
Elsinore, situated in an oval basin surrounded by hills and 
mountains, is seven miles long and three miles wide. The 



313 

lake's surface is about 1,300 feet above sea-level. The aver- 
age depth of the lake, at the center, is 80 feet and there is a 
legend of a submerged spring. The lake has been stocked 
with game fish; water-fowl, especially ducks, are found in 
season, and the hills and mountains abound in deer and other 
game. In an air-line Lake Elsinore is only sixteen miles from 
the ocean, but the intervening mountains shut off the ocean 
fogs. Visitors enjoy swimming, rowing and sailing on the 
lake at all seasons. 

The delights of the lake, the curative mineral springs and 
invigorating climate have made Elsinore a notable summer 
and winter resort. The town has a public library and an excel- 
lent park system. Hot springs are numerous, there being 
sulphur, saline, iron springs, including among their chemical 
components potash, soda, magnesia and lime. The water 
comes from the ground at a temperature of from 102 to 140 
degrees. The curative value of the springs in cases of rheu- 
matism is acknowledged and the waters have also been 
used to good effect in stomach, kidney, blood-* and skin dis- 
orders. 

Some of the richest soil in the state surrounds the lake, 
and all kinds of deciduous fruits and berries are at their 
best here. The products of the region are varied, consisting 
of clay and clay products, dressed stone, honey, hay, dried 
fruits, olives, olive oil, nuts, poultry, eggs. Citrus fruits are 
grown on the highlands above the lake. Scenes along the 
shores of Lake Elsinore are said to resemble those of the 
Holy Land. 

Fi-om Elsinore the line of the Santa Fe runs southeast 
through Murietta (7), from which are reached the well-known 
Murietta Hot Springs, to TEMECULA (5). This old town is 
the present terminus of the line. From here can be reached 
by stage road the Mission of Pala (12 j. (S3e page 179.) 



34. San Bernardino to Yuma 

Southern Pacific Sunset Route 



This route is that followed by tourists over the Sunset 
Route of the Southern Pacific. Tourists over the lines of the 
Santa Fe and the Salt Lake Route leave the state 
through San Bernardino County, the lines running eastward. 



314 

These routes are outlined in the next section. From San 
Bernardino the line of the Southern Pacific extends to Red- 
lands Junction. 

From Redlands Junction the railroad extends southeast, 
entering Riverside County at Ordway (5) and passing through 
El Casco (4) to BEAUMONT (8). Situated at the summit 
of San Gorgonio Pass, this is a picturesque farming commun- 
ity. It is well adapted to a high class of horticulture, and 
produces apples, peaches, prunes and cherries. New water 
resources are being developed and the town is growing rap- 
idly. The climate is delightful. 

From Beaumont the traveler reaches BANNING (6), sit- 
uated at an elevation of 2,300 feet, between the San Jacinto 
and San Bernardino Mountains. The climate is cool and de- 
lightful, and the rich soil is well adapted to raising almost 
any sort of crop. The deciduous fruits, almonds, grain and 
alfalfa, are the chief products at the present time. To those 
coming from 4;he east, after their journey through the Colo- 
rado Desert, Banning is truly "The gateway of Southern 
California.'' The town is 88 miles from Los Angeles. 

From here the Sunset Route line continues east through 
Cabazon (6) to Palm Springs Station (14). Five miles south 
of here are the Palm SpringS;, situated in an oasis of palms 
surrounding a mineral hot spring which has many curative 
properties. It is widely known as an artists' and nature- 
lovers' colony, and has good hotel accommodations. 

The railroad extends from Palm Springs Station south- 
east through the Coachella Valley. While the valley was 
once part of the ocean's bed, it is now plentifully supplied 
with fresh water, which lies a short distance underground, 
coming from the mountain ranges which skirt the valley on 
either side. Irrigation is carried on by sinking wells and 
pumping the water. 

Up to the present time the products of the Coachella Val* 
ley have been the various minor crops of Riverside County, 
vegetables, grapes, alfalfa, almonds, sugar beets and can- 
taloupes. All of these thrive in the warm, dry climate, but 
they have been overshadowed by two recent additions to the 
list of crops which bid fair to be of great importance. Cot- 
ton is found to flourish in the valley, and is said to be su- 
perior to that of most of the Southern States, growing one 
and a half bales to the acre. The residents are even more 
enthusiastic over another new product — dates. The date 
palm is found to do splendidly in the valley, and dates of the 



315 

finest sorts are now beinj; grown. The presence of the United 
States Agricultural Station will be of value in aiding the rapid 
development of the indastry. 

After passing Palm Springs the first point of importance 
is Indio (24), an oasis in the deserts with gardens created 
and nourished by artesian wells which tap a subterranean 
river. T'he town has a population of about 1,000. From here 
is reached Coachella (4), which is developing into an import- 
ant shipping point for cotton. Thermal, three miles farther 
east, is another town with good land available in the sur- 
rounding region. Here is situated the valley high school. 

From Thermal the route is through Mecca (6) to Salton 
(13). This town is situated on the great Salton Sea, occupy- 
ing the bottom of a former arm of the Gulf of California. 
The surface of the sea is 250 feet below sea-level. The wa- 
ter is about 34 feet deep at its greatest depth. The basin of 
the Salton Sea was formerly dry, but a break in the Colorado 
River bank filled it with water. The Colorado has now been 
controlled with levees so that it can never again leave its 
channel; the Salton Sea in the course of time will therefore 
disappear. From Salton the railroad reaches Durmid (6) and 
crosses into Imperial County to Bertram (4). 

IMPERIAL COUNTT, the youngest county in the state, 
was formed in 1907 from the eastern part of San Diego 
County. The area is 4,089 square miles. The population in 
1910 was 13,591; it now numbers about 27,000, The main 
agricultural land is in the fertile Imperial Valley, 60 miles 
long and 30 wide, of which about 450,000 acres are in this 
county, the remaining 300,000 being in Mexico. The land 
is irrigated from the Colorado River. The products are di- 
versified, alfalfa being a large crop. Cotton has been grown 
on a commercial basis since 1909, and the prospects for an 
extension of this industry are bright. The date palm flour- 
ishes in Imperial County, and the production of dates will 
probably soon be considerable. Orange culture, too, is in- 
creasing. Agriculture in the county began in 1900, the land 
having previously been considered "desert" and of no value. 
Since the discovery of its true fertility the Imperial Valley 
has become known as the "Nile Valley of America." 

From Bertram the Southern Pacific line runs along the 
east side of Salton Sea, through FVink (5) to Volcano {TV2}. 
To the northeast of this town is a mud volcano, which gave 
the town its name. From Volcano the route runs southeast 
through Imperial Junction, whence a branch line extends 
through the center of Imperial Valley into Mexico. 



816 

This branch runs south through the towns of Estelle 
(41/2), Bernicc (4I/2), Rockwood (4i^) to BRAWLEY 
(5). This is one of the chief valley towns. 
The population in 1910 was 881. Brawley is the cen- 
ter of the large cantaloupe district, Imperial Valley melons 
ripening very early in the season. A pleasant spot 
in Brawley is a little park, filled with tropical and semi- 
tropical trees and plants. (Hotel Bungalow, A. P. $2.50 up.) 
The railroad continues from Brawley through Keystone (4i/^) 
to IMPERIAL (5). Imperial had a population of 1,257 in 
1910. The stone high school at Imperial is a model of its 
kind. South of here is El Centre i^V^). EL CENTRO is 
the county seat and largest town. The population in 1910 
was 1,610. Here are the county buildings and an imposing 
union high school. Near El Centre is the government ex- 
perimental farm, at which is determined the adaptability of 
Imperial Valley land to growing cotton, dates and other valu- 
able products. (Hotel El Centre, E. P. $1 up; Hotel Oregon, 
E. P. $1 up.) From El Centro the Holton Interurban Rail- 
way runs east to HOLTVTLLE (11). Tlie population of this 
town in 1910 was 729. The high school building here is built 
along classic lines. The public park is one of the most at- 
tractive in Imperial Valley. East of Holtville may be seen 
the ancient line of beach, the border of the Gulf of Califor- 
nia ages ago. From El Centro the line runs through Heber 
(5) to Calexico (iVo). CALEXICO, a town on the Mexican 
border, had a population of 729 in 1910. Beyond here the 
line crosses the border to the neighboring town of Mexicali 
(1), whence the route travels east on Mexican territory, en- 
tering the United States again at Andrade on the banks of 
the Colorado River, and thence to Yuma, Arizona (14). 

The main line from Imperial Junction runs southeast 
across the Colorado Desert through Glamis (30) and Ogilby 
(19) to Colorado River (15) and across the Colorado River 
to Yuma, Arizona (1). To the north of this route lie the 
Chocolate Mountains. 

From Yuma the Yuma and Laguna branch of the Southern 
Pacific runs north into California, extending along the Colo- 
rado River, through Colorado (1), and Laguna (12) to Pot- 
holes (1). 



35. San Bernardino to the East 

via Barstow 

The lines of the Santa Fe and the Salt Lake Route run 
from San Bernardino to Barstow along the same tracks. 
From Barstow the routes diverge, the Saata Fe extending 
across the Mojave Desert to Needles on the Colorado River, 
crossing that stream into Arizona. The ' Salt Lake Route 
line runs to the north of the Santa Fe, extending into Nevada. 

JMost of the country passed tlirough by these lines is 
desert territory, though at many of the i?tations there are 
oases where agricultural development is going on because 
of the presence of flowing wells, created by tapping the un- 
derground water supply. The Mojave Desert region is 
rich in minerals and much of this wealth is still undeveloped'. 
Though on the whole the desert region cannot be said to be 
interesting while passing through on ilie train, there are nat- 
ural features which are worthy of remark. Many of the 
mountain ranges present strange and wierd outlines against 
the sky and on the plains the forests of yucca and cactus 
have a no less strange appearance. There is an air of mys- 
tery about the desert which will cling to it for years, 
perhaps for centuries — for most of it has never been ex- 
plored. The Calico Hills in the Mojave Desert are remark- 
able because of their strange colorings, from which they 
took their name. The strata lie exposed on the bare moun- 
tain sides, displaying a great variety of colors — red, yellow, 
violet, bright green, pink, crimson and brown. Each hill has 
its own distinctive color, with mottlings of the others. There 
are a number of other mountain ranges on the desert which 
present much the same characteristics in regard to their 
coloring as do the Calico Hills, The Mojave Desert (pro- 
nounced and often spelled Mohave) is dotted with many 
sinks, or lakes without outlet, which receive water from the 
surrounding mountains during the wet season. The most 
important stream is the Mojave River, rising in the San Ber- 
nardino Mountams, and flowing northward for 100 miles into 
the desert before disappearing in the sands. 

Tlie Santa Fe and Salt Lake Route follow the general 
course of the river as far as Barstow, 81 miles north of San 
Bernardino. In the mountain valleys near Victorville, Hes- 
peria and Oro Grande (Halleck station), apples and' grapes 
are grown successfully without irrigation. BARSTOW is an 



318 

important junction point, lines of the Santa Fe running 
tlience east and west, tlie latter to Mojave and the former 
to Needles. The Salt Lake Route runs eastward from here 
also. Barstow is a center of mining activity in the surround- 
ing desert. From here the two railroads run east to DAG- 
GETT (10), where there are borax and silver mines. The 
town has a population of 300"; agricultural development is 
promised .s the result of the recent discovery of a subter- 
ranean flow of water at a distance of from 50 to 300 feet 
from the surface. From Daggett the Santa Fe line runs 
southeast through a number of unimportant stations to Lud- 
low (44), whence the Tonopah and Tidewater runs north 
to Crucero, on the line of the Salt Lake Route. From Lud^ 
low the main line continues through Bagdad (23) to Goffs 
(60), whence a branch line of the Santa Fe connects with 
the line of the Salt Lake Route at Leastalk. From Barnwell, 
on this line, the Barnwell and Searchlight Railroad runs east- 
ward into Nevada, reaching a mining district of note. From 
Goffs the Santa Fe continues to the city of NEEDLES (32), 
on the Colorado River. This place is the most prominent in 
this region and is an important railroad town. The popula- 
tion is about 4,000. There are large mining and smelting 
interests here. The school system is excellent and the fine 
Santa Fe Recreation Hall (cost $100,000) is open to all the 
residents of the city. The Santa Fe shops at Needles em- 
ploy a large number of the inhabitants. (Needles Hotel, E. 
P. $1; Cottage House, $2; El Garces; Harvey Hotel.) 

From Needles the line of the Santa Fe crosses the Colo- 
rado River into Arizona, continuing across that state to Albu- 
querque, New Mexico, and thence to the East. 

The line of the Salt Lake Route from Daggett runs north- 
east to Crucero (46), whence the Tonopah and Tidewater 
Railroad runs north through San Bernardino and Inyo Coun- 
ties into Nevada, reaching T'onopah, Bullfrog and Goldfield. 
This line passes near Death Valley, where so many early 
pioneers lost their lives trying to cross the desolate waste. 
The Salt Lake Route runs from Crucero to Leastalk where 
it is joined by a branch line of the Santa Fe, connecting with 
the main line at Goffs. A branch line reaches from Leastalk 
northwest to Ivanpah, in the Ivanpah Valley. The main line 
continues through Nipton (10) into Nevada, crossing the 
state boundary just after leaving Calada (10'). The Salt Lake 
Route crosses Nevada by way of Las Vegas and Caliente, 
reaching Salt Lake City, Utah, 781 miles from Los Angeles. 



36. Oakland to San Jose 

A journey which may be substituted for the one given in 
Route 3 of this book (San Francisco to San Jose) is this, 
from Oakland to San Jose. This serves as well as Route 
3, as the first stage of the trip from San Francisco to Los An- 
geles by way of the Coast Line, as Oakland is reached from 
San Francisco by ferry. The main Coast Line is joined at 
San Jose. 

From Oakland the trip may be made by two lines of the 
Southern Pacific, running part of the way almost parallel. 
The first of these is by way of Niles; the second, nearer the 
Bay Shore, by way of Newark. 

T'he line running southeast by way of Niles takes the 
route described in the section, San Francisco to Stockton, 
until it reaches Niles (25 miles from Oakland Pier). This 
route is described in preceding pages (see Table of Con- 
tents). From Niles the line continuing toward San Jose 
reaches Irvington (4), from which the old Mission San Jose, 
one mile to the eastward, is most conveniently reached. 

Mission San Jose, an interesting relic of the past, was 
founded June 11, 1797, on Trinity Sunday. The Indians in 
the surrounding hills gave much trouble in the early years, 
but later became converted. Though the buildings were 
never extensive, at one time Mission San Jose had more 
neophytes than any other California mission except San Luis 
Rey. The country about the settlement then as now was ex- 
tensively cultivated, making it a veritable garden spot. The 
olive trees planted by the padres 100 years ago are still in 
bearing. While not one of the most imposing of the missions, 
the little chapel (all that remains of the original establish- 
ment) is of interest because of its historic associations. 
About it clusters the little town of Mission San Jose, in an 
agricultural region of exceptional fertility. Palmdale, the 
country seat of Henry Lachman, is one of the show places 
of .-Mameda county. Travelers of distinction often have been 
entertained here. 

From Irvington the railroad runs through Warm Springs 
(3) into Santa Clara County, reaching Milpitas (5). Monu- 
ment Peak (2,591 feet), rising to the east marks the boundary 
between Alameda and Santa Clara Counties. From Milpitas 
the railroad passes through Wayne (2) to San Jose (4), which 
is described under Route 3, page 84. 



320 

Tlie route from Oakland to San Jose by way of Newark, 
reaches first the communities of Fruitvale and Elmhurst, 
both part of the city of Oakland. From Elmhurst the rail- 
road runs southeast through Mulford (2), Robert (3) and 
Russell (2) to Mount Eden (2), an agricultural town. From 
here is reached ALVARADO (3). Here are located the great 
solar salt works of the California Salt Company. The salt is 
made from sea water on artificially overflowed lands. Salt is 
collected in the summer and piled in great pyramids, some of 
which contain as much as 4,000 tons. At Alvarado was built 
the first beet-sugar factory in the United States. This is 
one of the oldest towns in the bay region; it was at one 
time the county seat of Alameda County. 

From Alvarado the route runs through Ardien (3) to NEW- 
ARK (3).* This is a rapidly growing industrial town near the 
shores of San Francisco Bay. It is an important railroad 
center and junction point. From here Southern Pacific trains 
cross the lower end of the bay by the great Dumbarton 
bridge, reaching Redwood City and running up the peninsula 
to San Francisco. To the east a branch line of the Southern 
Pacific runs through Centerville (2), a thriving agricultural 
town of 1.500 people, to Niles (3), on the route between Oak- 
land and San Jose. 

After passing Newark the railroad runs through Mowry 
(2) and Drawbridge (3) to Alviso (3), where work on the im- 
provement of Port San Jose is under way. From here the 
railroad runs through Agnew (3), the location of a State 
sanatorium, to Santa Clara (3), continuing thence through 
College Park (1) to West San Jose (1). San Jose and the sur- 
rounding territory are described in Route 3 of this work. 



37. Kings and Kern River Canyons 



The canyons of the Kings and Kern Rivers form a great 
recreation ground for the people of California and of the 
United States which is as yet little exploited; many parts 
of it are just beginning to be known. Roads have been built 
into the region and the trails have been improved, yet much 
remains to be done to make it accessible to the tourist. At 
the present time, however, the Kings River Canyon may be 
visited without great hardship; the upper Kern River Canyon 
is more difficult of access, but may be reached by a number 



32] 

of mountain trails. T'iie Kings and Kern Canyons lie in a 
scenic region whicli can scarcely be excelled anywhere. The 
great area in the eastern part of Fresno and Tulare counties 
which is shown in the accompanying map contains much of 
remarkable interest to the tourist and lover of nature in its 
untamed aspects. Although not as celebrated as Yosemite 
Valley and Lake Tahoe, the region is much more vast than 
either of them, and contains probably grander scenery than 
any like area in the West. Its wonders are just beginning 
to be heralded abroad, and it is safe to say that in years to 
come it will be as famous and as popular as any other recrea- 
tion ground of the United States. Besides the scenic attrac- 
tions there are three large groves of Big Trees in this region 
— the California Grove, the Giant Forest (in Sequoia National 
Park) and the General Grant Grove in the Grant National 
Park. The map which accompanies the description of this 
region gives the trails usually followed in reaching the points 
of interest and makes a detailed outline of them unnecessary. 

The region covered in this section of the Guide Book may 
be reached from several different points. The majority of 
travelers leave the railroad at Visalia, travel thence to Lemon 
Cove by electric railway and make the rest of their trip by 
stage and trail. Another point of departure from the main 
route cf travel is at Porterville. TTie lower Kern Canyon, 
with its rugged scenery, is approached by way of Ducor; the 
California Hot Springs being reached by stage. Remarkable 
featijres in this part of the mountains are Cliff Point, whence 
an extended viev/ over the Sierras and the San Joaquin Val- 
ley is obtained; Painted Rocks, where the mountain's bare 
side is carved and painted in strange Indian pictographs and 
indecipherable hieroglyphs; and Capanero Falls, a quarter 
of a mile from the springs. The California Hot Springs are 
12 miles from the Kern River. (See Route 28.) Still another 
way of reaching the Kings-Kern region is from Independence 
or Big Pine, in the Owens River Valley (see Route 30). The 
trails and roads are open from May until October, and this is 
the usual limit of the tourist season. 

From Visalia the electric railway runs to Lemon Cove, 
whence the Kings River stage leaves at 7 a. m., arriving at 
Juanita Meadows (IS) for luncheon. From here is reached 
(by stage of the Kings River Stage and Transportation Com- 
pany) the California Grove of Big Trees, ten miles distant. 
The California Grove (known also as Redwood Mountain) 
lies in the saddle between General Grant National Park and 
the Giant Forest, at the foot of Little Baldy Mountain. It is 
a discovery of recent years. The stage road passes through 




Map of Kings-Kern Region. 



323 

the upper part of the grove, which contains upward of 8,000 
specimens of the genus Sequoia Gigantea (the real Big Tree). 
The stage from here continues to Quail Flat, two miles far- 
ther, whence it runs to Plume. Four miles by trail east of 
Quail Flat is the General Grant National Park. This park 
may he reached also by stage from Woodlake, on the Visalia 
Electric lines. 

General Grant National Park has 190 sequoias exceeding 
ten feet in diameter. The largest of these is "General Grant," 
with a diameter of ?>^ feet and a height of 264 feet. (Includ- 
ing the "knees" the diameter is 40 feet.) "George Washing- 
ton" has a diameter of 29 feet and a height of 255 feet, and 
there are many others of remarkable proportions. The other 
big tree groves in the Kings-Kern region are in the Sequoia 
National Park, a government reservation of 161,597 acres. 
The largest of these groves is the Giant Forest, with 
about 5,000 sequoias exceeding 10 feet in diameter. In this 
forest the most notable trees are "General Sherman" (di- 
ameter 36 feet, height 286) ; "Abraham Lincoln" (diameter 31 
feet, height 270) ; "William McKinley" (diameter 28 feet, 
height 291). Other groves of great size in the Sequoia Na- 
tional Park are the Muir Grove (3,000 trees of over 10 feet 
diameter) and Garfield Grove (2,500 trees of this size), while 
there are eight others of smaller area and with fewer trees. 
The tree known as "Dalton," in the Muir Grove has a height 
of 292 feet and a diameter of 27 feet. TTie Giant Forest may 
be reached by stage from Lemon Cove. 

From Quail Flat those desiring to reach the Kings River 
Canyon take the saddle trail for Big Meadows, six miles dis- 
tant, where there are excellent camping grounds. From here 
the trail leads past Horse Corral to the summit overlooking 
the canyon, on to Cedar Grove, where there is a hotel. The 
view of the Kings River Canyon from the trail to Cedar 
Grove is one of imposing grandeur, 

KINGS RIVER CANYON is a deep cleft in the Sierra 
Nevadas running from east to west. The sides are not as 
precipitous as those of Yosemite, nor are there the immense 
waterfalls that mark the upper course of the Merced, but 
the canyon is much more extensive and the surrounding 
peaks are as high. There are great domes and granite crags 
on all sides v/hich lend a strange and ragged appearance to 
the skyline. Throughout this region are scattered green mead- 
ows and mountain lakes, torrential streams with roaring cas- 
cades and waterfalls, sheer cliffs and towering snow-capped 
peaks. In the floor of the canyon rushes the Kings River, 



324 

discovered lower down its course in 1805 by a Spanish ex- 
ploring expedition which called it Rio de los Santos Reyes 
(River of the Holy Kings), from which it took its present 
name. The "box canyon" is 15 miles long. 

The traveler who comes by the route just detailed 
reaches the South Pork of the Kings River; the Middle Fork, 
which also contains magnificent scenery, will be described 
later. From Cedar Grove the trail runs up the canyon to 
Camp Kanawyer, on Copper Creek. All along this route rise 
precipitous walls; opposite the camp is the Grand Sentinel, 
a granite cliff rearing its crest 8,500 feet above the canyon 
floor. From Kanawyer delightful side trips may be taken, 
for the most part over good trails. Roaring River Falls 
are among the most beautiful in this part of the Sierras; 
here the river has cut its way through the solid rock and 
plunges into a deep green pool, where the angler finds mar- 
velous sport. 

At Mist Falls, in Paradise Canyon, the stream tumbles 
over a series of inclines, over smooth-worn, spray-drenched 
walls. Above here rises the strangely formed Sphinx Rock. 
The trip up Pleasant Valley is another journey with remark- 
able scenic features. The trail along Bubbs Creek leads into 
one of the most inviting canyons tributary to the Kings River 
Canyon; there are a great many waterfalls and cascades, the 
largest of the falls rushing down on two sides of a great 
rock. As the canyon is ascended the peaks become more 
grand and rugged, while beneath them lie crystal mountain 
lakes, among them being Lake Bryanthus, Lake Charlotte, 
East Lake and Lake Reflection. There are remarkable granite 
domes and cliffs in this region of the High Sierras. The 
East Vidette and the West Vidette are steep-sided cones. 
The Kearsarge Pinnacles are above the chain of lakes, a 
strange array of peaks and jagged ridges. Kearsarge Pass, 
leading toward the east from the pinnacles, is the highest of 
all the Sierra passes (12,056 feet), and is literally the back- 
bone of the mountain range; the mountains slope downward 
on both sides from the crest along which the narrow trail 
runs. The pass runs by way of Kearsarge Mill, a reminder 
of the mining days, down into the Owens River Valley. 
Mount Kearsarge rises to the north of the trail and Univer- 
sity Peak (13,950 feet) to the south and there are many other 
notable eminences. Mount Brewer, south of the Bubbs Creek 
trail, is one of the highest in this part of the Sierras (13,886 
feet). Other prominent peaks are Mount Gardner, Mount 
Gould, Mount Keith, Mount Bradley and Mount Rixford. The 
mountain lakes (Lakes Bryanthus, Charlotte and Rae) are 



;J25 

also reached by way of the Paradise Canyon Trail, leading 
northward from Kanawyer through the gorge of the Upper 
South Fork of the river; about five miles from the main can- 
yon the gorge opens out into Paradise Valley, a green meadow 
enclosed within precipitous cliffs, which is a favorite camping 
ground. From here a trail leads up the western side of the 
canyon to Woods Creek, entering from the east, and onward 
to the lakes, 

TTie Middle Fork of the Kings River runs in a canyon no 
less remarkable than that of the South Fork, though it is not 
so easily reached. The trip requires from three to five days 
and may be made from Cedar Grove or Hume (formerly 
called Ten Mile). This gorge is known as Teliipite Canyon, 
from a gigantic dome which rises on its northern side. Tehipite 
Dome rears its walls 3,480 feet above the river, its summit 
being crowned with an almost perfectly rounded cap. The 
Tehipite Pinnacles are a series of jagged spires, at whose 
foot are fine waterfa,lls. There are also beautiful falls and 
cascades along Cartridge Creek, a tributary of the Middle 
Fork. At Simpson's Meadow, in the upper reaches of the 
canj'on, are excellent camping grounds. 

The KERN RIVER CANYON lies to the east of the terri- 
tory already described. The course of the Kern River at this 
point is almost due south; the ravine is more extensive than 
the Kings River Canyon, and is fully as interesting, 
though less visited. As already stated, it may be reached 
from California Hot Springs; another route is by way of 
Kanawyer's, Bubbs Creek trail and Kearsarge Pass, entering 
the canyon from the east. Tlie most popular route is prob- 
ably from Horse Corral, by way of Alta Meadows. Above 
the meadows rises Alta Peak (11,211), which is the highest 
point in the Sequoia National Park. The mountain is not 
difficult to climb and the view from the summit is impres- 
sive. Fi-om Alta Meadows the trail leads by way of Mineral 
King Valley and Farewell Gap to Coj'ote Pass, where it en- 
ters the Kern River Canyon at the lower end, opposite Vol- 
cano Creek, the original home of the golden trout. From 
Miner's Peak are had views of the great Chagoopa Forest, 
the immense cleft known as the Big Arroyo and the towering 
forms of Kaweah Peaks, among the highest in the Sierras, 
the loftiest pinnacle being 14,140 feet above sea-level. To 
the east is Mount Whitney (14,522 feet), surrounded by its 
palisades; this is the highest point in the United States. 
Far to the northeast is Mount Tyndall (14,101). At one point 
in the canyon the Kern River has been blocked by a land- 
slide, causing it to fill the ravine for some distance above, 



326 

the beautiful expanse of water being known as Kern Lake. 
TTie upper Kern Canyon reaches into the very heart of the 
highest Sierras, and a hardy mountain-climber will not leave 
the region without essaying the ascent of Mount Whitney. 
The Kern river is known as one of the finest trout streams 
of California. 

From Alta Meadows may be reached the Giant Forest 
(already described) and Camp Sierra, in the Sequoia Na- 
tional Park. The trail to this camp leads by Mount Silliman 
(11,188), whence a fine view of Mount Whitney is obtained. 
Camp Sierra is in Round Meadow, in the heart of the Giant 
Forest. This is a place from which many trails lead to the 
points of natural interest in the surrounding region. One of 
the largest Big Trees extant, "Rob Roy," is an isolated tree 
standing on a ridge near the Kings Canyon. This tree is 
109 feet around the base and 400 feet high; it was found by 
the Sierra Club in 1903. A remarkable eminence near Camp 
Sierra is Morro Rock (6,719 feet), a smooth granite monolith 
set in the midst of beautiful scenery. Two miles northeast 
of Camp Sierra is the largest tree in the world, "General Sher- 
man," with a base circumference 9 feet above ground of 107 
feet; the height is 2S6 feet. Hospital Rock, 8 miles south of 
the camp, is a huge pinnacle supposed to have been the home 
of a prehistoric race; there are numerous hieroglyphics 
upon it. In this region of the Sierras also are a num-, 
ber of remarkable caves, most of M^hich have not been com- 
pletely explored. The largest of these are Paradise Cave 
and Clough Cave, both south of Camp Sierra, the first 25 
miles and the second 32 miles. 

Kaweah Canyon is visited by a comparatively small num- 
ber of tourists, but is very attractive, and is not difficult of 
access. From Exeter, on the railroad, take the Visalia Elec- 
tric line to Lemon Cove (15), thence to Three Rivers (12i/^). 
From Three Rivers by auto stage the traveler reaches Kaweah 
(4). Here a stop for the night is made. (Kaweah Hotel, $2.) 
From Kaweah to the entrance of the Sierra National Forest is 
14 miles; thence to Old Colony Mills (10); thence via Marble 
Creek to Ranger Postoffice, also called Camp Sierra (11). 
Meals in the dining-room and lodgings in tents cost $3 a day. 
From Sierra Camp the trails to Mount Whitney, and Kings and 
Kern River Canyons, are in good condition, and livery accom- 
modations may be had at Ranger. Sixteen miles east from 
Sierra Camp via Tharp's Rock lie the Kaweah Peaks. From 
these peaks the visitor may take in at a glance the canyons of 
the Kings, the Kern and the Kaweah Rivers. 



38. Lake Tahoe 



LAKE TAHOE is one of the noted scenic wonders of the 
United States. Nowhere in the world is the ' equal of this 
great body of water, set in the midst of a high mountain 
range, with peaks towering above it. Its infinite variety of 
scenery alone would make it famous; the shores are skirted 
by green meadows and sandy beaches, pine forests, rocky 
cliffs and promontories and tov/ering crags. The regal blue 
of its waters is matched by few lakes, for Lake Tahoe in 
places is said to be too deep to be measured by instruments 
available to scientists of the present day; many believe that 
it is fed by underground springs as well as by the melting 
snows of the mountains. T'he depth has been measured more 
than 1,800 feet, after which mark the sounding instruments 
have failed. The surface of Lake Tahoe is 6,240 feet above 
sea-level; the highest mountains which rear their crests 
above it are 11,120 feet in altitude. This is the height of 
Freel's Peak and Job's Sister. Most of Lake Tahoe is in 
California, but all of the eastern shore and part of the north- 
ern are in the state of Nevada. The lake is 13 miles wide 
and 2?. miles long; because of its great surface it is sometimes 
subject to storms, especially in winter, but most of the time 
it is calm. 

Lake Tahoe is most easily reached by the line of the 
Southern Pacific to Triickee (see route, Sacramento to T'ruc- 
kee) and thence by the line of the Lake Tahoe Railway and 
Transportation Company southward to Tahoe City. The au- 
tomobilist has a choice of several routes, probably the most 
popular being that by way of Placerville and the American 
River Canyon, though the route along the course of the 
two railroads is much followed. The Alpine State Highway 
runs to Tallac, on the shores of Lake T'ahoe. The points of 
interest along these routes are described elsewhere (consult 
Index or Table of Contents). 

From Truckee the line of the Lake Tahoe Railway runs 
up the Truckee River, a torrential water course, which is the 
outlet of the lake. There are picturesque vistas at every turn, 
with rapids, falls and cascades succeeding one another as the 
stream plunges down the mountains on its way to Nevada. 
After a ride of an hour, in which 15 miles of attracti/e 
mountain scenery may be viewed, the railroad reaches TAHOE 
CITT, on the shores of Lake Tahoe, stopping at Tahoe Tav- 
ern. The tavern, one of the famed tourist resorts of Cal- 







7 ,//*' '« 



H'^i-./ 



rv4 /f ' o 




■•k 



,Q ^-* g \,RubiconSpfmgs 

K7 .. ' s I Sit...-. ^'V' 







^ 



bSBS f['n I 



tclls'pc)ak 






Jji^uX 



Moratfini 






* ' . \/A ft i:\r ' / y». . 



rtlELL PfAK K 




Map of Lake Tahoe Region. 



329 

ifornia, is situated at the edge of the lake. There are varied 
amusements for the visitor, including trout fishing in the lake 
and tbe Truckee River, motoring, horseback riding, tennis 
and other less strenuous recreations. There is a Casino on 
the lake shore, v/ith iDrcad verandas and an assembly and 
ballroom. The Tavern has a garage. The vistas over the lake 
from here are ever-changing, and delightful hours are passed 
watching the varying phases of this great mountain lake. 
Tahoe Tavern is open from May 15 to October 15. (Rates, A. 
P. $4 up.) The twin-screw steamer "Tahoe" leaves the wharf 
at Tahoe Tavern every morning at 9:45 ior the trip around 
the lake. The distance is 72 miles, following the curves of 
ihe shore. T'his is an "inland voyage" that no tourist should 
omit, as only in this way are the full majesty and beauty of 
Lake Tahoe realized. The shore is dotted with summer 
homes and resorts, w^hile hundreds of pleasure craft ply on 
the blue waters. The trip around the lake will now be taken 
up in detail; the tourist is referred to the map of the Tahoe 
region in the following description. (See page 328.) 

From Tahoe Tavern the steamer cruises southward to 
Home wood C6), a resort center, with hotel, tents and cot- 
tages, situated near the base of Barker Peak. From here is 
reached McKinney's (2), one of the best-known places on the 
lake. There are boats and fishing outfits to be had at Mc- 
Kinney's and the bathing is excellent. This is the point of 
departure for places in the interior country. The side trips 
include journeys to Mirror Bay, Iron Springs, Quail Lake 
and Rubicon Springs. Rubicon Springs, situated on the Rubi- 
con River at the base of the mountain of the same name, 9 
miles by stage from McKinney's or Moana Villa, are popular 
with fishermen. The waters are of recognized medicinal qual- 
ities and are palatable. The country round here abounds 
with game, and many deer are killed in the mountains every 
year. Moana Villa, less than one-fourth of a mile from Mc- 
Kinney's, is a lake-shore hotel which is liked by tourists. 
From here the steamer coasts to Rubicon Park (8), with its 
fine sandy beach, and thence past Rubicon Point, where the 
rugged cliffs drop sheer for two hundred fathoms; some of 
the largest fish have been caught at this place. The water 
here is of great clearness; in fact at many places on Lake 
Tahoe one may see far beiow the surface, and watch the fish 
darting to and fro. 

After Rubicon Park the next stop is at Emerald Bay Camp 
(6) on the shores of beautiful Emerald Bay. This body of 
water, according to Indian legend, was once a separa.te lake, 
and the entrance is very narrow. The shores are set thickly 



330 

wath green pines and other trees, giving the name to the 
bay in which their reflections show so clearly. Emerald Bay 
is three miles long and half a mile wide; the sandy bottom 
hundreds of feet below the surface can be distinctly seen 
through the limpid water. From the camp, where there are 
tents and cottages, may be taken pleasant excursions into the 
mountains. Numerous lakes lie in the regions above Emerald 
Bay, and from one of these a cascade tumbles down into it. 
The v/aters of Emerald Bay are the warmest of any in Lake 
Tahoe, making the bathing probably the best about here. The 
trout fishing is also good. The steamer circles a rocky islet 
in the upper bay, once Inhabited by an eccentric hermit, and 
passes into the great lake, coasting by Eiagle Point to 
Tallac. 

TALLAC is one of the most notable resorts on the shores 
of Lake Tahoe, with its hotel and cottages set at the very 
edge of the forest. This place is the most prominent on the 
southern shores and occupies an attractive position, with 
Mount Tallac rising behind it. A large Casino helps in the 
entertainment of guests. This is a starting point for delight- 
ful walks and drives into the surrounding mountains. The 
ascent of Mount Tallac is not difficult, and from its summit 
may be caught glimpses of fourteen mountain lakes besides 
Tahoe; the altitude is 9,715 feet. From here is reached Fallen 
Leaf Lake, so named from its appearance when viewed from 
the surrounding heights. This is a charming spot and there 
are a number of retreats in the region about here. Fallen 
Leaf Lodge is on the shores of the Lake itself, while nearby is 
Camp Agassiz, a quarter of a mile from the lodge; this has 
long been a popular summer camp for boys. TTiere are also 
camps at Lake of the Woods and Heather Lake, under the 
management of Fallen Leaf Lodge; these are in the higher 
mountains about Tahoe and afford opportunities for exploring 
Desolation Valley and the peaks around it. Fallen Leaf Lake 
is situated at an altitude of 6,360 feet; it is 4 miles long and 
iy2 miles wide; its waters mirror the distant peaks and 
overhanging trees with remarkable distinctness. The lake is 
well stocked with trout, such as Eastern Brook, Rainbow, 
Scotch Brown, Mackinaw, Loch Leven, Salmon mycus and 
their kin. In fact all of the lakes and streams of this region 
are the delight of the angler. i\ep.r Fallen Leaf Lake is the 
resort known as Glen Alpine Springs, which affords scenery 
which vies with that of the Alps. Situated in a canyon which 
thousands of years ago was carved out of the mountain side 
by a huge glacier, the springs gush forth about half-way up 
its length. At this point a forest of stately pines reaches 



down into the valley and there is a commodious hotel. The 
mineral waters are of acknowledged value. Glen Alpine Can- 
yon is one of the finest examples of glacial action in the 
Sierras, according to scientists who have visited the region. 
Numerous trails lead from the hotel into the mountains, and 
the highest peaks may he ascended from here. Within one 
to six miles of tne hotel are more than forty lakes, all abound- 
ing with game fish. 

The steamer from Tallac coasts the shore to The Grove, a 
resort about half a mile distant, near the mouth of the 
Little Truckee River, the main tributary of Lake Tahoe. This 
is the center for many pleasant excursions, and the bathing 
and fishing are good. The Grove is open the year around. 
From here the lake shore is traversed to Al-Tahoe (4), which 
takes its name from the Indian appellation of Lake Tahoe. 
The resort is situated on a bluff commanding an extensive 
view over the lake; there is a fine sandy bathing beach with 
excellent bathing; the waters being warm. From Al-Tahoe 
trips into the interior reach Cold Creek, Little Truckee and 
Star Lake, all noted for their fishing; from here may be 
climbed the peaks known as Job's Sister (11,120) and Freel's 
Peak (11,120), the highest in this region. From Al-Tahoe 
the steamer reaches Bijou (2), another popular resort, passing 
thence to Lakeside (2), on the boundary between California 
and Nevada. The next stopping point is Glenbrook (14), on 
the Nevada side of the lake. (Glenbrook Inn, $2.50 up.) From 
here a stage line runs to Carson City, Nevada, 14 miles dis- 
tant, whence Virginia City, and Reno and other points on 
the Southern Pacific Railroad are reached by the Virginia & 
Truckee Railway. South of Glenbrook Bay is the Shakespeare 
Cliff, upon the side of which is a scar which, from a certain 
angle, locks like the profile of the Bard' of Avon. There is 
excellent trout fishing in this part of the lake. 

From Glenbrook the steamer continues northwest to 
Brockway (15), a resort of note, which is situated on Agate 
Bay, just west of State Ijine Point, which juts out into the 
lake from the north shore. On the other side of the point is 
Crystal Bay, At Brockway there are hot mineral springs, as 
well as the usual resort attractions. (Brockway Hotel, A. P., 
$2.50 to $4.) Half a mile beyond here is Tahoe Vista, where 
there is one of the best bathing beaches on the lake. (Hotel 
rates, $2 up.) The last stopping point of the steamer is Car- 
rel ian Bay (21/^), where there is a pebble beach over 2,000 
feet in length; carnelians and other beautiful semi-precious 
stones may be picked up here. There are excellent camping 
grounds near the beach. From Carnelian Bay the steamer 



makes the last stage of the .iourney around the lake, passing 
around Observatory Point, and thence to Tahoe City (4). 
Glenbrook may be reached from Tahoe City by a direct steam- 
ship line across the lake. The distance is 14 miles. 

The entire Lake Tahoe region is a recreation ground of 
never-failing popularity. Besides the resorts on the lake 
shore, there are a number in the surrounding mountains. 
Those reached from points on Lake Tahoe have already been 
mentioned. Among the other notable resorts of the region 
are the Deer Park Springs, ten miles from Truckee and two 
miles from the railroad. Stages meet morning and evening 
trains at Deer Park station. There are facilities for indoor 
and outdoor pastimes. Soda, iron and sulphur springs add 
to the attractions of the resort. (Hates, $2.50 up.) To the 
north of Truckee are Webber Lake and Independence Lake, 
reached' by stage. 

The lofty peaks which surround Lake Tahoe have much 
to attract the more strenuous of the summer tourists. There 
are trails leading throughout the mountains, several of them 
making accessible the higher summits. The elevations above 
sea-level of the principal mountains are: Freel's Peak (11,120 
feet). Job's Sister (31,120), Pyramid Peak (10,052), Mount 
Tallac (9,715), Richardson Peak (9,794), Rubicon Peak (9,284), 
Ralston Peak (9,140), Angora Peak (8,935), Twin Peak (8,924), 
Ward Peak (8,665), Hunger Hill (8,250). Among the more 
important of the lakes which are scattered throughout this 
region (elevation above sea-level given in feet), as seen from 
Mount Tallac, are: Fallen Leaf Lake (6,360), Echo Lake 
(7,420), Wright Lake (7,420'), Potter Lake (6,528), Grass Lake 
(7,681), Cascade Lake (6,720), Gilmore Lake (8,100), Heather 
Lake (7,800). These are only a few of the beautiful bodies 
of water in the Sierras; they are so numerous that many of 
them have not even been named. 



39. Yosemite Valley 

The YOSEMITE VALLEY stands out above all other 
scenic beauties of California. Its fame Is world-wide and 
it holds position second to none among the natural wonders 
of the world. The valley is situated in the Yosemite National 
Park, a great government reserve in the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains. Some of the most remarkable mountain scenery 
in America is embraced within the borders of this park. 



333 

Many of its chief features have been described in preced- 
ing pages of this book. The crowning glory of the park is 
Yosemite Valley, which should be lisited by every traveler 
in California. Unlike many American natural wonders, Yo- 
semite is easy of access. There are several ways of reaching 
the valley. A popular route is by way of the Yosemite Val- 
ley Railroad, which runs eastward into the mountains from. 
Merced, with its terminus at El Portal, on the border of Yo- 
semite National Park. The trip takes only four hours from 
Merced. The route of this railroad has been described in 
Section 25 of this book. From El Portal the coaches of the 
Yosemite Transportfition Company carry the visitors into the 
wonderland of the valley. An auto stage line from Placer- 
ville affords another means of reaching Yosemite Park; there 
are also roads by way of Coulterville and by way of Ray- 
mond and \\'awona. The regions through which these routes 
pass are described in other parts of this book (consult in- 
dex). 

The Yosemite Valley (pronounced Yo-sem-i-tee) is the 
deep-cut canyon of the Merced River, where it is flanked by 
almost perpendicular cliffs. It is situated on the western 
side of the Sierra Nevada range, the vallay floor being about 
4,000 feet above sea-level. The valley is eight miles long 
and from one-half to two miles wide. This great gorge had 
its origin in a cataclysm of nature which opened up an im- 
mense crevice in the heart of the mountains; this was filled 
with glaciers which gouged out the valley, leaving it with 
its beetling granite walls, as it is today. 

Yosemite (or Yo Semite, as it was formerly written) is 
an Indian word signifying "Big Grizzly Bear." The valley 
was discovered by the aborigines centuries ago and was held 
by them in religious veneration as a terrestrial paradise. It 
was with feelings of awe and solemnity that they ventured 
into this mighty canyon. Most of the Indians have passed 
away to their happy hunting grounds, but many of the names 
which they applied to natural features in Yosemite Park are 
still used. A wealth of legendry is attached to this romantic 
region. (See Yosemite Legends,"' by Bertha H. Smith). 
Probably the first white men to view the wonders of Yo- 
semite were the members of the Mariposa Battalion, who 
pursued hostile Indians into these mountain fastnesses in 
March, 1851. Dr. Bunnell, however, in the winter of 1849-50, 
had beheld El Capitan from a considerable distance; he was 
also with the expedition which first saw the valley. 



334 

The flora and fauna of Yosemite hold great interest for 
sojourners in this mountain region. The valley's floor con- 
tains much rich meadow-land, dotted with wildflowers of 
every hue. Rare shrubs and trees grow in Yosemite. The 
flora is not confined to alpine varieties, but includes most 
of the distinctive California plants and trees. Among the 
wild flowers are lilies, larkspur, lupin, white and blue violets, 
honeysuckle, purple primrose, painter's brush, Mariposa tu- 
lip, moccasin-flower, scarlet snovvplant, daisies, geranium, 
goldenrod, orchids, mint, columbine, spiraea, sunflower, hare- 
bell, gilia and phlox. There are ferns of every size and va- 
riety. The shrubs include azalea, wild lilac, rhododendron, 
laurel, wild rose, wild cherry, ceanothus, manzanita, dwarf- 
oak, willow and chinquapin. The manual "Yosemite Flora," 
issued by the Department of Botany of the University of 
California. Berkeley, is a valuable and interesting companion 
for the lover of plants and flowers in the park. The prin- 
cipal trees of the valley are yellow pine, fir, tamarack, cedar, 
black oak, cottonwood and sugar pine. 

The wild life of the Yosemite Park is little less varied than 
the flora. No hunting is allowed within the government re- 
serve and under this protection the furred and feathered den- 
izens of the forest have increased and prospered. The ani- 
mals include the squirrel, mountain beaver, woodchuck, coy- 
ote, fox, lynx, deer, woodrat, cougar (mountain lion) and bear. 
Most of these, while found in the park, do not frequent the 
valley. The birds are many in Yosemite, and their woodland 
notes add much to the natural charm of the surroundings. 
See "Song Birds in Yosemite," by Olive Harper, in "Califor- 
nia the Beautiful" (Paul Elder, San Francisco) for an at- 
tractive account of these feathered warblers. Among the 
birds of Yosemite are the tanager, humming-bird, oriole, 
warbler, woodpecker, nuthatch, jay, robin, sparrow, sage- 
cock, grouse, quail, ])artridge, water-ousel, ducks, geese (in 
winter), hawks and eagles. Trout fishing is permitted by 
the government in the streams and lakes of the national 
park during specified years. 

The traveler cannot satisfactorily view the many wonders 
of Yosemite in less than a week; several weeks and even 
months are not too much to devote to this region. The best 
season to visit the valley is probably the early summer, but 
in winter there are attractions which rival those of the 
warmer months. The ice-encrusted waterfalls and cascades, 
snow-laden trees and all the wonderland of Yosemite clothed 
in white afford vistas of surpassing magnificence. 



335 

For those Californians who dwell far from the realm of the 
Winter King and for all out-of-door people, the winter sports 
add' pleasure and zest to the season. The activities are 
varied, including skating, skecing, snow-shoe v/alking, sleigh- 
ing, tobogganing, snow-balling and real alpine climbing. The 
weather in winter is usually pleasant, with many crisp days 
and clear nights. The Sentinel Hotel and Hotel Del Portal 
are open throughout the year. The clothing taken by the 
tourist to the Ycseraite should be chosen according to the 
season; overcoats and wraps are needed in winter, and the 
evenings in summer are often cool enough to require them. 

The visitor is accommodated at the hotels and camps 
(mentioned later) or may "camp out" alone if he prefers not 
to reside in the regular camps. Tents and outfits may be had 
at the Yosemite Store. Those desiring to make trips on 
horseback may hire animals in the valley; rates vary, ac- 
cording to the trip, $2 a day being an average. Driving out- 
fits also may be secured in the valley. All prices are under 
government regulation. Automobiles were formerly excluded 
from the the Yosemite National Park, but Secretary of the 
Interior Franklin K. Lane, himself a Californian, has di- 
rected that they be admitted in future. For the vis- 
itor who spends many days in Yosemite a larger map of the 
region than that given in this book will be of great assist- 
ance. The governm.ent issues two excellent maps, which 
may be secured from the Director of the Geological Survey, 
Washington, D. C. These are a map of Yosemite National 
Park, with a scale of 2 miles to the inch (25 cents unbound; 
35 cents folded and bound between covers) and a map o3 
Yesemite Valley, with a scale of 2,000 feet to the inch (10 
cents a copy). The Department of the Interior issues a Bulle- 
tin of General Information regarding Yosemite National Park, 
which contains data of interest and value; it may be had on 
application. 

As already noted, most of the visitors to the Yosemite 
Valley come by waj'^ of El Portal. From here the traveler 
takes the stage for the Yosemite Village. The enjoyable ride 
of 121/^ miles is over the government road, the last 4 miles 
being along the floor of the valley. The coach, following 
the course of the turbulent river, penetrates deeper and deeper 
into the Merced Canyon, the walls becoming ever higher and 
more precipitous. Everywhere the scenery is magnificent, a 
fit preparation for the beauties which lie above. The gradual 
ascent from El Portal to the floor of the valley is 2,000 feet. 
The Cascade Falls, lying to the north of the road, are passed; 
here the Cascade Creek plunges down the cliffs for 700 feet. 













■'y.JI",/ 


























'V:; 






^A\Y^fc;,^llft.-^^;;.'^^;///^r,l,,4'=:>, ., 






^$«i^ 




^r>> v%,'^-^^ ■""■:r^; :v\5^.^'-: 

.T? juBJ^ < Jill,- '* 4-, ^4 .,;■., ■/, *7V7?"\a> */„ .''• .< •. 



In succession are passed Inspiration Point, Artist's Point, Old 
Inspiration Point, Stanford Point, Crocker Point, all to the 
south. After traversing a dense pine forest which has hidden 
these from view, the coach emerges at Grand View, and halts 
while the vision of Yosemite bursts for the first time upon 
the traveler. The entrance is guarded by mighty sentinel 
cliffs, and beyond them lies the stupc^ndous gorge of Yosemite. 

Here on the south wall are the Bridal Veil Falls, plunging 
over the granite precipice. The stream is over 30 feet wide, 
and falls first for 600' feet, then rushing over a sloping ledge 
it plunges a distance of 300 feet more. The total drop is 940 



;;r:7 






'•'iir. 






.Z'^' 



yATKlHSv,. 



,„^ 






''^?v« 






^amx" 



:m 






.,.,„r. adome 






.'■iUGARlDfM 



\CURRy| 



:S 



?r<jf . 



r",."*(i 



iXJiACIER 



MLAOER'. 



irrriE 



»f:. 



iRWISTER p?t>CK''^j 



/;/»' 



;■■«?. -^' 






S^i^ 






f'^i-Je' 



'qM 






K'^^'^l 






,^^j 
v!^) 



W^: 



. ;;^ii;;;,' 



i^^-^i^ 



j,,y/.: 



feet, and from most points of observation tlie descent of the 
water seems unbroken. Unquestionably these falls are among 
the most picturesque in the world. The wind often swings 
the falling column of water across the face of the cliff like 
a veritable "bridal veil." At the base of the falls on every 
sunny afternoon are formed magnificent rainbows, enduring 
for over two hours, presenting a scene of infinite beauty. In 
Avinter, with the long pendant icicles and ice grottoes, the 
falls are no less resplendent. The Indians called these falls 
Pohono (Spirit of the Evil Wind), connecting with them a 
weird, sinister legend. The Bridal Veil Falls are not the 



338 

greatest in Yosemite Valley, but they are much larger than 
any in Europe. The falls of the Staubbach (in Switzerland), 
the highest on the Continent, are inferior to the Bridal Veil 
Falls both in height and volume. 

On the north wall of the valley, almost opposite the Bridal 
Veil Falls, are the Ribbon Falls. The stream makes an un- 
broken leap of over 2,000 feet. From the verge of the precipice 
to the valley floor the stream plunges a distance of 3,300 feet. 
The Indians called these falls "Lungyoluckoya," which prob- 
ably means "the long and slender one." According to others, 
its significance is merelj^ "Pigeon Falls." The falls have also 
been known as the "Virgin's Tears," but this name is being 
supplanted by the less romantic, but m.ore characteristic "Rib- 
bon Falls." 

Beyond the Ribbon Falls towers El Capitan, the great 
granite cliff that guards the western entrance to the valley. 
It is one of the most imposing and one of the most famous 
of the scenic features of Yosemite. Its dominating position 
and majestic form are accentuated by the narrowing of the 
gorge at this point to about a mile m width. The height of 
El Capitan above the valley floor is 3,300 feet — over three- 
fifths of a mile. The precipice appears to be perpendicular, 
though in reality the base is advanced 1,200 feet from the 
plumb-line of the brink. The crest of the cliff, however, over- 
hangs the vertical on both the southern and western faces. 
This immense mass of white granite holds up on its surface 
1,600 acres; it may be seen from certain points of vantage 
more than 50 miles away. The name of this cliff is appro- 
priate, signifying in Spanish "The Captain." The Indians 
called it Tutockahnulah, in honor of the greatest chief in the 
history of their tribe, whom they venerated as a deity. 

Beyond El Capitan, on the northern side of the valley, are 
The Three Brothers, whose similarity depends upon the point 
of view. The Indians called them Pompompasus, or "moun- 
tains playing leap-frog." The highest of The Three Brothers 
is known as Eagle Peak; its summit 3,900 feet above the 
valley. The view from the top, reached by trail, is one of the 
finest in the Park. The Three Brothers are not to be confused 
with The Three Graces, peaks of similar formation, which rise 
on the other side of the valley opposite El Capitan. They are 
3,400 feet above the valley floor. These peaks were known 
to the Indians as Wahwahlenah. East of them are the note- 
worthy Cathedral Spires, pinnacles reminiscent in their form 
of the Duomo at Florence. One of the spires rises 2,678 feet 
above the valley, and is unsupported and unconnected with 



339 

the mountain for 700 feet. Tlie other spire is 2,579 feet above 
the valley. The Indian name for these formations was "Pose- 
nah-Chukka," or "large acorn cache.'' 

Facing The Three Biothers, on the south wall, is the Sent!-? 
nel Rock. This slender granite tower stands out in grand iso- 
lation, its castellated summit 3,0o9 feet above the valley. For 
1,500 feet below the crest the face of the Sentinel is nearly 
Ijerpendicular. This rock was known to the Indians as "Loya," 
or "The Watchtower." Down one flank plunge for 3,000 feet 
cascades which are known, because of their opaqueness, as 
Buttermilk Falls. Above Sentinel Rock rises Sentinel Dome, 
one of the conoidal knobs peculiar to Yosemite. The top of 
this remarkable mountain is 4,125 feet above the Merced River 
and 8,125 feet above sea-level. The ascent is not particularly 
difficult, and the view from the summit sweeps over the 
Sierras for 50 miles. 

In that portion of the valley dominated by Sentinel Dome, 
and situated in the meadows at the foot of Yosemite Falls is 
Yosemite Village, the social center of the valley. It is a ham- 
let consisting of the office of the Superintendent of the Yo- 
semite, the Sentinel Hotel and cottages, general store, post- 
office, barber shop, dancing pavilion, a number of art studios 
and offices for express, telegraph and telephone companies. 
The Sentinel Hotel, situated on the banks of the Merced River, 
is the only hotel in Yosemite Valley. From the hotel the tour, 
ist may view the splendid Yosemite Falls, Sentinel Rock, Half 
Dome, and the other wonders of the valley. The hotel is open 
throughout the year. (Rates, American Plan. $3.50 to $5 per 
day; $21 to $30 per week.) From the Sentinel Hotel start the 
stages for El Portal and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees. 
The most interesting of the cottages adjacent to the hotel 
(under same management) is the Cedar Cottage, containing 
the "Big Tree Room," in the center of which is a great cedar 
tree 8 feet in diameter. Besides the hotel there are three ex- 
cellent camps in Yosemite for the accommodation of tourists. 
Here riuring the summer months the soiourner may enjoy to 
the full the pleasures of outdoor life. Camp Lest Arrow is 
situated at the base of Yosemite Point, and almost at the foot 
of Yosemite Falls, three-quarters of a mile from Yosemite Vil- 
lage. (Rates, $2.50 per day, $15 per week.) Camp Ahwahnee 
is located in the meadows of the Merced River, about one 
mile from the village. (Rates, $3 per day, $17.50 per week.) 
Ahwahnee is a name once applied by the Indians to the Yo- 
semite Valley; they called themselves Ahwahneechees. Camp 
Curry is at the base of Glacier Point, on the road to Happy 
Isles, Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls. (Rates, $2.50 per day. 



340 

$15 per week.) On the top of Glacier Point are the Glacier 
Point Hotel and Camp, described later. Situated' in a beauti- 
ful grove directly under Glacier Point is Le Conte Memorial 
Lodge, maintained by the Sierra Club of California, which has 
done much toward the exloration of the Sierra Nevada Moun- 
tains. The building was erected in honor of Dr. Joseph Le 
Conte of the University of California, who loved the Yosemite 
region, and visited it eleven times. He died in the Yosemite 
Valley in July, 1901. The lodge is open from May to August. 
The reading room contains much of interest, including maps, 
photographs, Pacific Coast papers and magazines, and a wealth 
of literature pertaining to the Sierra region of California. The 
library is open to the public for reference only. 

North of the Sentinel Hotel are the wonderful Yosemite 
Falls. The Yosemite Creek, 35 feet across at the lip of the 
falls, here, plunges over the walls to the floor of the valley, 
2,600 feet below. This descent of half a mile is not made in 
one sheer fail, though it seems so from a distance. In reality 
there are three falls. The first and largest leap of the stream 
is 1,600 feet straight downward; then comes a series of cas- 
cades for 600 feet, and finally there is another vertical drop 
of 400 feet. So vast are the cliffs over which the water pours 
that from some distance away the great waterfall seems of 
no extraordinary size, but on nearer approach its true majesty 
and magnitude are apparent. When the stream is at its great- 
est volume, the roar of the falls echoes from one side of the 
canyon to the other. In the winter a great ice-cone, some- 
times 500 feet high, forms at the base of the upper fall. To 
the right of the falls is a high crest known as Yosemite Point, 
?.,220 feet above the valley. From the top are obtained ex- 
tended and wonderful views over the upper end of the valley. 
In the hollow near the point rises a monolith of granite, which 
was called by the Indians "Flummoo," or "The Lost Arrow," 
with which they connected one of their characteristic legends. 
East of Yosemite Point is Indian Canyon, through which led 
the trail used by the aborigines in entering and leaving the 
valley. The elevated plateau at its mouth was the scene, 
in 1852, of a fierce and savage battle between the Yosemite 
and Mono tribes of Indians, the former being almost extermin- 
ated. 

Opposite, in the great eastern wall that forms the base of 
the North Dome, are the Royal Arches, curious recessed curves 
in the granite. Much of the rock hereabout is formed in lay- 
ers, which has been fractured by the frost and other weather- 
ing agencies. Down the arches plunge for 2,000 feet the 



little cascades known as the Royal Arch Falls, called I)y the 
Indians "Tokay." Above the Royal Arches towers the North 
Dome, its summit 3,725 feet above the valley floor. Its Indian 
name was "To-coy-ae," Avhich has the meaning "the shade to 
an Indian baby basket or cradle," and was applied because of 
a fancied resemblance in shape. The extreme angle of the 
canyon wall at this point is a rock "tower" known as the 
Washington Column. This may be termed the head of Yo- 
semite Valley proper. To the northeast opens out Tenaya 
Canyon, while to the southeast, farther up the Merced Canyon, 
is the Little Yosemite Valley. These are described later. 

From the floor of the valley is reached by trail far-famed 
Glacier Point. The more direct route is by way of Union 
Point, though there is another of great charm by way of Ver- 
nal Falls and Nevada Falls (described later). The former 
trail ascends the canyon wall and reaches Union Point, 2,350 
feet above the Merced River. From here is obtained a splen- 
did view of the upper part of Yosemite. Just below is the 
Agassiz Column, 85 feet high, a granite shaft of top-heavy ap- 
pearance, balanced on a slender base. The trail traverses the 
brink of the cliffs until Glacier Point is reached. 

Glacier Point is one of the most celebrated of the preci- 
pices of Yosemite. It is perhaps the most popular objective 
point in the whole region. The view from here is probably 
superior to that from any other place of vantage above the 
mighty gorge. The entire eastern end of the valley lies far 
below, while upon practically the same level as Glacier Point 
are the pinnacles, domes and waterfalls, which rim the canyon. 
Yosemite Falls, North Dome and the Royal Arches, South 
Dome (Half Dome), Basket Dome, Clouds' Rest, Cap of Lib- 
erty, Vernal Falls, Nevada Falls, Eagle Peak, — all can be seen 
from different parts of Glacier Point, with the higher Sierras 
as a background. This panorama has been declared by many 
"globe-trotters" to be the most magnificent in the world. The 
remarkable shelf-like ledges are but a few yards from the 
hotel. From the top of the famous Overhanging Rock it is 
3,234 feet to the valley floor. A pebble dropped over the edg^j 
vsill fall 3,000 feet straight down before striking the talus at 
the base of the precipice. The Glacier Point Hotel is almost 
on the brink, and affords a widespread view. It is open dur- 
ing the summer season. (Rates. $4 per day; $25 per week.) 
A short distance back from the hotel, in a grove of pine and 
fir trees, is the Glacier Point Camp, (Rates, $2.50 per day; $15 
per week.) From the hotel excellent trails make accessible 
the points of interest on the south wall of Yosemite. It will 



342 

well repay the visitor to take a trip on horseback along the 
Pohono Trail, which skirts the rim of the valley. Upon this 
trail are The Fissures, immense crevices in the rocks, several 
hundred feet deep and four feet and upwards in width. In this 
vicinity is Profile Cliff, where the imaginative may conjure 
up any number of strange faces on the jagged wall of the 
mountain. The trail continues past Cathedral Spires, Dewey 
Point and Stanford Point to the Wawona Road, which it joins 
near Fort Monroe, the post of the government troops guarding 
the Yosemite National Park. Beyond is Inspiration Point, 
1,200 feet above the floor of the valley. The wonderful out' 
look from here justifies the name. A remarkable formation 
seen on the Pohono Trail near Dewey Point is the Leaning 
Tower, its summit 1,900 feet above the valley. This granite 
shaft was known to the Indians as "Hunto," or "The Watching 
Eye." Another trail from Glacier Point is that to the top of 
Sentinel Dome, which has already been described. Wawona 
and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees are reached by road 
from Glacier Point. One of the most popular of the trail trips 
from Glacier Point is that to lllilouette Falls. At this place 
the creek (South Fork of the Merced) makes a plunge of 370 
feet into the gorge below. The Indian name (sometimes given 
as Tululoweack) signifies "rushing v/ater." From here the 
trail leads past Register Rock to Vernal Falls and Nevada 
Falls. 

The Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls are on the Merced 
River between Yosemite Valley and Little Yosemite. These 
falls may be reached from Glacier Point by the route just out- 
lined, or by the trail along the valley floor. The latter route 
continues up the river past the Happy Isles, at the head of the 
valley, where the Merced foams in the shadow of mighty 
cliffs. The trail continues to the right of the bold crag known 
as Grizzly Peak; looking up the canyon to the right a glimpse 
is obtained of Illilouette Falls. A short distance farther on, 
and from the bridge across the river, the sight of Vernal Falls 
bursts upon the visitor. The direct descent of these falls is 
350 feet, with tumultuous cascades at the base. The trail 
leads to the top of the falls, where one may safely look down 
upon the rushing waters, leaning over a natural balustrade of 
granite. The Indians called Vernal Falls "Pi-wa-ack," signify- 
ing "The Cataract of Diamonds.' Less than a mile by trail 
beyond this waterfall are the Nevada Falls, where the river 
leaps thundering downward for 594 feet. The setting is ma- 
jestic, with the strangely-formed Cap of Liberty towering 
above. The water is guided by a peculiar curve in the granite 
channel, which makes the waters swirl as they fall. This 
caused the Indians to call the waterfall "Yowive," or "The 



343 

Twisted One." Nevada Falls, in the wildness of their sur- 
roundings, their height and the volume of water, are among 
tlie most remarkable in the world. The Cap of Liberty rises 
2,000 feet above the falls, and may be ascended from the 
northeast. Beyond is Mount Broderick, which has an eleva- 
tion of 6,705 feet. Farther up the Merced is Little Yosemite 
Valley, a picturesque canyon about 3 miles In length, with 
the Sugar-Loaf at its upper end. To the south, beyond the 
meadows, rises Mount Starr King, its summit 9,081 feet above 
sea-level. This is one of the loftiest peaks in the region. 
From Nevada Falls a trail leads to Illilouette Falls and Glacier 
Point. On this route is Panorama Point, 4,000 feet above the 
river, the highest continuous wall in the Park. 

The trip into Tenaya Canyon should not be omitted from 
the itinerary of the traveler. The road leads to the head of 
Yosemite Valley, and turns to the northeast into Tenaya Can- 
yon. On the right is the great Half Dome, dominating the 
whole upper part of the valley. This mountain, known also 
as the South Dome, is as unique in its formation as is the 
Matterhorn. The front, facing the canyon, is almost a sheer 
precipice for 2,00'0 feet, while to the rear the dome rises in a 
smooth curve. The summit of the Half Dome is 5,000 feet 
above the valley. It may be attained from the trail which 
leads to the base of the mountain by a difficult climb, and a 
somewhat hazardous rope ascent of 900 feet. There is a sug- 
gestion of mystery about the formation of the Half Dome, 
since "the other half," if there ever was one, has disappeared 
without leaving a trace. The base of the mountain is not a 
talus slope, but is of solid granite, and the debris at the foot 
is entirely insufficient to account for the vanished half. Some 
geologists suggest that it sank in the granitic ooze after the 
dome had been fractured by some upheaval of nature. The 
Indians called the Half Dome "Ti~sa-ack," the name of the god- 
dess of the valley, and here was the reputed home of the deity. 

Soon after entering Tenaya Canyon the traveler reaches 
Mirror Lake. This beautiful sheet of water is, indeed, hap- 
pily named, for upon its placid surface are perfectly reflected 
the towering forms of the Half Dome, Clouds' Rest and Mount 
Watkins. Sunrise upon Mirror Lake is justly famed, and the 
visit to this part of the Park should be made in time to see 
the sun cast its first light upon the waters — about 7 o'clock 
in the morning in the summer season. The reflections are 
most perfect in the early mornings. The lake is, of course, 
the chief attraction of Tenaya Canyon, but there are many 
striking scenic features in this vicinity. Mount Watkins and 



344 

the Basket Dome rise to the north of the canyon, the former 
8,400 feet and the latter 7,602 feet above sea-level. Beyond 
Mount Watkins is the Quarter Dome, and farther on is lofty 
Clouds' Rest, its crest 6,000 feet above the valley floor (9,924 
feet above sea-level). 

The Trails, which lead to various points of interest, are im- 
portant. Of these trails probably the best are those lead- 
ing to Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls and Glacier Point, but 
there are a number of others which are excellent. The dis- 
tances along these trails to objective points, from Sentinel Ho- 
tel, are here given: To foot of Upper Yosemite Falls, 2% 
miles; top of Upper Yosemite Falls, 4 miles; Yosemite Point, 
5 miles; Eagle Peak, 7 miles; top of Vernal Falls, 5 miles; top 
of Nevada Falls, 6 miles; Little Yosemite Valley, 8 miles; 
Clouds' Rest, 11 miles; Glacier Point (short, trail), 414 miles; 
Sentinel Dome, ^Vz miles; Glacier Point via Vernal and Ne- 
vada Falls, 11 miles. From Glacier Point to Inspiration Point 
via the Dewey Trail, 11 miles. On the map accompanying this 
description of Yosemite the trails are indicated by light dotted 
lines. The rougher trails leading to various points of interest 
in the National Park are too numerous to be given here. They 
may be found described and illustrated on a map of the Park 
in the Bulletin of General Information concerning the Park, 
issued by the Department of the Interior. One of the most 
popular of the trips is to PTetch-Hetchy Valley, described in a 
previous portion of this work. The Roads in Yosemite are 
under government supervision, and are in good repair. The 
distances to objective points on the roads from Sentinel Hotel 
are: Mirror Lake, 3 miles; Mirror Lake by way of Happy 
Isles, round trip 7 miles; foot of Yosemite Falls, one-half mile; 
El Capitan Bridge, 3 miles; Bridal Veil Falls, 4 miles; Pohono 
Bridge, 5 miles; Cascades, 8 miles; Happy Isles, 2^^ miles; In- 
spiration Point, 8 miles. 



40. After leaving California 

California occupies a position which renders it an ideal 
starting-point for the attractive regions of the Western United 
States, for the breeze-swept islands of the Pacific, the seduc- 
tive Orient and the antipodean lands under the Southern 
Cross. The tourist from the East, who has seen California, 
may return home by a number of interesting routes. He may 



345 

visit Arizona and New Mexico, with their ancient pueblos and 
interesting missions; the Grand Canyon of the Colorado lies 
not far from the main route. He may visit Nevada, whose sil- 
ver mines on the famed Comstock lode have added much to 
the wealth of the nation; he may see the state of Utah and 
the beautiful city which adorns the shore of the Great Salt 
Lake. He may see Colorado, with its Rocky Mountain scen- 
ery, whose grandeur makes it known abroad. Mexico, to the 
southward, offers a world of romance to the tourist in search 
of adventure. 

The tourist who leaves California by the Northern route 
enters the state of Oregon, reaching Portland (the Rose City) 
and the pleasant valley of the Willamette. Farther on is the 
great state of Washington; the enterprising communi- 
ties which border Puget Sound are typically American, and 
hold much to interest visitors. From here can be reached 
the mountain scenery and magnificent glaciers of British Col- 
umbia; Vancouver Island is noted for its beauty. The tourist 
may travel eastward from California by several routes. He 
may view the Canadian Rockies or traverse the no less grand 
region to the south, passing through the states of Idaho, Mon- 
tana and Wj^oming. The Yellowstone National Park and Gla- 
cier National Park are two of the celebrated scenic attractions 
of this region. 

The Panama Canal, that stupendous monument to Ameri- 
can energy and enterprise, is reached from San Francisco by a 
number of ocean routes. From here also are most easily ac- 
cessible South American countries bordering on the Pacific 
Ocean. 

A number of steamship lines operate between San Fran- 
cisco and foreign ports, offering opportunities to tourists to 
visit many delightful lands. New Zealand, Australia, Japan, 
China and Tahiti are among the most popular with travelers. 
Outlying possessions of the United States are of particular in- 
terest. Alaska, with its glaciers and rugged mountain scenery, 
is reached by several lines operating by way of Portland and 
Seattle> The Hawaiian Islands may be visited by means of 
rapid steamships. The "Paradise of the Pacific" never fails 
to interest the tourist. Beyond lie the Philippine Islands. 
These are only a few of the places to be visited from Cali- 
fornia. The whole expanse of the "Great Ocean," with its 
myriad of islands, is open before you. California is the gate- 
way to half the world. 



4 1 . Coast Steamship Lines 

There are a number of steamship lines along the California 
coast which afford excellent opportunities for varying the rail- 
road travel with sea voyages. The Pacific Coast Steamship 
Company's lines from San Francisco run to Santa Barbara, 
San Diego and Los Angeles to the south; the city of Eureka 
(Humboldt Bay) is reached by another line. The "Big Three" 
Line (San Francisco and Portland Steamship Company), offers 
a direct route between San Francisco and Port Los Angeles 
(San Pedro). Besides these there are several smaller 
steamship lines which connect the various coast ports. The 
river and bay steamship lines are mentioned in other portions 
of this book. 



42. Railways in California 

steam Railroads (miles of owned and leased lines) : 
Southern Pacific Lines, 4.206.84; Santa Fe Lines, 1,385.68; 
Western Pacific Railway Company, 390.62; Northwestern 
Pacific, 413.60; San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake, 246.41; 
Nevada-California-Oregon, 196.92; Tonopali and Tidewater, 
144.60; Pacific Coast, 103.05; San Diego & South Eastern and 
San Diego & Arizona, 88.46; Yosemite Valley, 79.17; Sierra 
Railway Company of California, 75.64. 

Electric Interurban Railways: Pacific Electric Lines, 
837.76; San Francisco-Oakland Terminal Railways, 227.20; 
Northern Electric Lines, 141.00; Central California Traction, 
63.56; Peninsular, 63.15; San Francisco, Napa & Calistoga, 
33.84; Petaluma & Santa Rosa, 31.60, Oakland, Antioch and 
Eastern Railway. 



'iZ) 



# 



^ 



Ind 



ex 



Ager 217 

Asnew 320 

Agua Caliente 2;J4 

Alameda 74-75 

Alameda County 68-82, 255 

Alamitos Beach 164 

Albany 77 

Albion 239 

Alcatraz Island 63 

Alhambra 299 

Alpaugh 285 

Alpine County 298 

Alpine Tavern 166 

Alta 251 

Altadena 165 

Alturas 248 

Alum Rock Park 02 

Alvarado 320 

Alviso 93 

Amador County 260 

Amedee 247 

Amsterdam 26S 

Anaheim 169 

Anderson 2U9 

Angel Island 63 

Ang-el's Camp 272 

Angels 272 

Angiola 285 

Antloch 195 

Appleg-ate 250 

Aptos 100 

Areata 242 

Arlington 309 

Arm.ona 284 

Aromas 102 

Arrowhead Springs 303 

Arroyo Grande 121 

Asti 237 

Atascadero 117 

Atolia 293 

Atwater 263 

Auburn 250 

Avalon 160 

Avila 119 

Avon 195 

Azusa 169 

Bagbv 276 

Baird 213 

Bakersfield 281 

Balboa 165 

Ball's Ferry 210 

Banning- 314 

Barstow 317 

Bassett's 204 



Bay Point 195 

Beaumont 314 

Beckwourth Pass 246 

Bella Vista 209 

Bellota 258 

Belmont 85 

Benicia 187 

Ben Lomond 100 

Berenda 264, 277 

Berkelej^ 75-82 

Betteravia 123 

Beverly Hills 154 

Bidwell's Bar 202 

Big- Basin 100 

Big-Lvs 205 

Big- Oak Flat 269 

Big- Pine 295 

Big- Meadows 245 

Big- Trees — 

Big- Basin Grove 100 

Calaveras Groves 272-3 

California Grovo 323 

Fremont Grove 96 

General Grant Grove 323 

Giant Forest 323, 326 

Mariposa Grove 277 

Tuolumne Grove 270 

Bishop 294, 296 

Bloomfield 254 

Bloomington 301 

Boca 245, 252 

Bodie 297 

Bohemian Grove 235 

Bolinas Bay 233 

Bonnie Doon 99 

Boulder Creek 100 

Bowman 250 

Boyes Springs 234 

Brawley 316 

Bridgeport 297 

Broderick 189 

Brookdale 100 

Brown's Valley 202 

Buckman's Springs 179 

Buena Vista Lake 282 

Bully Hill 213 

Burbank 133, 291 

Burlingame 84 

Butte County 205 

Byron Springs 195 

Cache Creek 198 

Cahuer.ga Pass 153 

Calaveras Big Trees 272 

Calaveras County 271 



348 



Calexico 316 

Calico Hills 317 

Calientc 2S9 

California Redwood Park. .100 

California Springs 288, 321 

Calistoga 225 

Camarillo 132 

Cambria 117 

Camino Real ,. . .90, 177 

Camp Dixie 236 

Camp Meeker 233 

Camptonville 203 

Camulos 135 

Capay 1S8 

Cape Mendocino 243 

Capitola 100 

Carisa Plain 118 

Carmel 109 

Carpinteria 130 

Cariiuinez Straits 186 

Casitas Pass 133 

Castle Crags 213 

Castroville 102 

Catalina Island 160 

Cave of Calaveras 272 

Cayucos 117 

Cazadero 235 

Cenierville 320 

Ceres 263 

Channel Islands 129, 160 

Chanslor . 115 

Chicago Park 253 

Chieo 205 

Chinese Camp 269 

Chino 301 

Cholame 117 

Chular 114 

Chula Vista ISl 

Cisco 252 

Claremont 300 

Clear Lake 228 

Clipper Gap ... .■ ... 250 

Cloverdale 237 

Coachella Valley ■".14 

Coalinga 285 

Coarse Gold 265 

Colfax 251 

Coloma 222 

Coltjn o\J2 

Columbia 270 

Colusa 218 

Colusa County 217 

Conc-.rd 195 

Congress Springs 93 

Contra Costa County 186 

Copi)eropolis 258, 272 

Corcoran 285 

Cordelia 188, 221 

Cornir.g 220 

Corona 308 

Corona Del Mar 165 



Coronado 177 

Cottonwood 209 

Coultervilb3 . 276 

Covina 299 

Crescent City 242 

Crocker's 270 

Crockett 18(5 

Crow's Landing- 279 

Cuesta 118 

Caayamaca 184 

Cypress Point 108 

Daggett 318 

Daly City 63 

Davenport 99 

Davis 188 

Deadman's Island 159 

Death Valley 293, 318 

Decoto 256 

Delano '2,'il 

Del Mar 173 

Del Monte 103 

Del Norte County 242 

Delta Region 194 

Diamond Springs 222 

Dinuba 286 

Dixon 187 

Donner Lake 252 

Downieville 203 

Drake's Bay 232 

Ducor 288 

Dumbarton 114 

Duncan Mills 235 

Dunsmuir 214 

Dutch Flat 251 

East Ba.y Cities 67 

Echo Mountain 166 

Edgev/ood 216 

Edison 289 

El Cajon 183 

El Camino Real 90, 177 

El Camino Sierra 291 

ElCentro 316 

El Dorado County 221 

El Pasear 291 

EI Pizmo 123 

El Portal 276 

El Segundo 156 

Elsinore 312 

El wood 125 

ETnerA^ville 73 

Emig-rant Gap 252 

Escondido 180 

Etiwanda 301 

Eureka 241 

Exchequer 276 

Exeter 287 

Fairfax 232 

Fairlield 187 



349 



Fair Oaks 221 

Fallbrook ISO 

Fall River 202 

Fall River 211 

Famoso 2S1 

Farallone 66 

Farniing-ton 267 

Feather River Canyon 244 

Felton 96 

Fernaiulo 290 

Fillmore 133 

FirebaxiQh 279 

Floriston 202 

Folsom 221 

Forest Hill 251 

Fort Brag-g- 239 

Fort Tones 217 

Fort Romie 115 

Fort Rosocrans 178 

Fort Ross 235 

Fort Tejon 289 

Fowler j:>>u 

Fremont Grove 96 

Fremont's Peak 112 

Fresno 265 

Fresno County 265 

Fruitvale 72 

Fullorton 169 

Fulton 236 

Gabilan Mountains 112 

Calt 260 

Gaviota 125 

Gazelle 216 

Georg-etown 222 

Geysers 237 

Geysersville 236 

Giant ii;6 

Giant Forest 323, 326 

Gilrny 101 

Gilrov Spring's 102 

Glen Kllen 234 

Glenn Countj' 219 

Glenwood 96 

Glen wood Mission Inn 306 

Goat Island 63 

Gold Run 251 

Goleta 125 

Gon'-cales . . 114 

Goodyear's Bar 203 

Goose Lake 2 48 

Granada 66 

Grass Valley 253 

Greenfield 115 

GridUn- 205 

Grizzly Peak 77 

Grossmont 183 

Guadalupe 123 

Gualoma 179 

Guorneville 235 

Guinda 198 



Gustine 279 

Half Moon G7 

Hamilton 220 

Hanford 284 

Harrison Gulch 209 

Hay ward 255 

Healdsburg 236 

Hemet 311 

Hermosa Beach 156 

Heroult 213 

Hetch-Hetchy Valley 273 

Hickman 268 

High grove 303 

nillsbDroug-h 84 

Hodson 258 

Hollister 110 

Hollvwood 153 

HoUville 316 

Honey Lake 247 

PTopland 237 

Hornbrook 217 

Hornitos 275, 276 

Horse liakt; 247 

Hot Spring- Valley 245 

HutMieme 132 

Humboldt Bay 241 

Humboldt County 241 

Huntington Beach 164 

Idyllwild 312 

Ignacio 229 

Igo 209 

Imperial 316 

Imperial County 315 

Tndio 315 

Invo County 293 

Tone 261 

Towa Hill 251 

Iron Mountain 212 

Irvington 319 

Jackson 261 

,Tacks<3nville 269 

Jamestown 270 

Jamul 179 

Jolon 120 

Julian 134 

Keddie 244 

Kelseyville 227 

Kennett 212 

Kermon 279 

Kern Canyon 3 20, 325 

Kern County 281 

Kernville 289 

Keswick 212 

King City 115 

Kings Canyon 320, 323 

Kin.^^s County 284 

Thing's Highway, Camino 
Real 90, 177 



350 



Klamath Springs 217 

Knight's Ferry 267 

Knight's Landing 198 

La Gumbre Peak 128 

La Grange 268 

La HDnda 86 

La Jolla 181 

La Mesa 183 

La Purisima Mission 124 

La Kamada 169 

La Soledad Mission 114 

Lake Chabot 73 

Lake County 227 

Lake Eleanor 274 

Lake Elsinore 313 

Lake Merced . . • 65 

Lakeport 227 

Lake Region of Sierras. . . .203 

Lake Tahoe 326 

Lancaster 290 

Las Cruces 125 

Lassen County 246 

Lassen Peak 210 

Lathrop 262 

Laton 2S4 

Latrobe 221 

Lemon Cove 287 

Lemon Grove 182 

Lenioore 285 

Lewiston 211 

Lick Observatory 94 

Lillis 284 

Lindsay 287 

Little Shasta Va.lley .216 

Live Oak 205 

Livermore 196, 256 

Livingston • • • • 253 

Lobitos 67 

Lockeford 259 

Lockwood Vallej^ 134 

Lodi 259 

Loma Prieta 96 

Lompoc 124 

Lone Pine 294 

Long Beach 161 

Lookout Mounte,in 153 

Loomis 250 

Los Alamos • . .122 

Los Angeles 136-148, 168 

Los Angeles Aqueduct 137 

Los Angeles County 132 

LosBanos 279 

Los Gatos 9 4 

Los Molinos 207 

Los Olivos 122 

Lower Lake 228 

Loyalton 245 

Madeline 248 

Madera 264 



Madera County 264 

Mare Island 188 

Marion County 229 

Mariposa 226 

Mariposa Big Trees 277 

Mariposa County 275 

Martinez 194 

Marysville 200 

Marys ville Buttes 109 

Matilija Canyon 134 

Mayfield 89 

McCloud River 213 

McKittrick 283 

Melrose 72 

Mendocino City 239 

MJendocino County 237 

Mendota 279 

Menlo Park 86 

Merced 263 

Merced County 263 

Merced River 275-6 

Meridian 199 

Mesa Grande 183 

Mexicali 316 

Middletown 227 

Midway Point 108 

Midland Trail 296 

Mills College 71 

Mill Valley 64 

Millwood 286 

Milton 258 

Mission Play 152 

Mission San Jcse 319 

Missions — 

Carmel 109 

L'olores 44 

La Parisima 124 

La Soledad 114 

Pala 179 

San .Antonio de Padua. .. .120 

San Antonio de Pala 179 

San Buenaventura 131 

San Carlos 109 

San Diego 176 

San F'ernando 290 

San Gabriel 151 

San Jose 319 

San .Tuan Bautista. Ill 

Sail Juan Capistrano . . . .170 

San Luis Obispo 119 

San Luis Rey 172 

San Miguel 116 

San Rafael 229 

Santa Barbara 126 

Santa Clxra 90 

Santa Cruz 98 

Santa Ynez 122 

Santa Ysabel 183 

Solano 233 

Modesto 262 

Modoc County 218 



351 



Modoc Lava Beds 248 

Mojavo 289 

Mojave Desert 289, 317 

Mokelumne Hill 260 

Mono County 296 

Mono Lake 297 

Mont.igue 216 

Montalvo 132 

Montara 66 

Monterey 103-108 

Monterey Bay 98, 106 

Monterey County 102 

Monte Rio. . . 235 

Monticello 224 

Moonstone Beach 157 

Mooretown 202 

Morgan Hill lOl 

Morro Rock 117 

Moss Beach 66 

Mountain View 89 

Mount Dana 297 

Mount Diablo 186, 195 

Mount Hamilton 94 

Mount Hermon 96 

Mount Lowe 165 

Mount St. Helena 226 

Mount Shasta 215 

Mount Tamalpais 64, 232 

Mount Wilson lev 

Mount Whitney 294 

Murphys 272 

Nacimiento 115 

Napa 224 

Napa County 223 

Napa Junction 223 

Naples 164 

National City 184 

Needles 318 

Nevada City 253 

Nevada County 253 

New Almaden 93 

Newark 320 

Newcastle 250 

New Idria 110 

Newman 279 

New Monterey 106 

Newport 165 

Niles 256 

Nojoqui Falls 125 

Nordhoff 133 

North Fork 265 

North Island 177 

North San Juan 254 

Noyo River 239 

Oakdale 267 

Oak Knoll 165 

Oakland 68-74 

Oat Hill 226 

Occidental College 140 



Ocean Beach 178 

Oceano 123 

Ocean Park 155 

Oceanside 171 

Oil Fields 282, 285 

Oiai Valley 133 

Old Town 176 

O'Neals 265 

Ono 209 

Ontario 301 

Orange 170 

Orange Counts'^ 169 

Oregon Hills 203 

Orizaba 161 

Orland 219 

Oroville 202 

Oso Flaco Valley 121 

Otav 185 

Owens Lake 294 

Owens River 137. 293 

Oxnard 132 

Pacific Beach 181 

Pacific Grove 106 

Painted Cave 125 

Pajaro 102 

Paiaro Valley 101, 95 

Pala 179 

Palermo 201 

Palisade Glacier 295 

Palnidale 318 

Palm Springs 314 

Palo Alto 87 

Panama-California Exposi- 
tion ; .175 

Panama-Pacific Exposition 

56, 59 

Paraiso Springs 114 

Pasadena 148, 165 

Pasear 291 

Paso Robles 116 

Patterson 278 

Pebble Beach 67 

Penryn 250 

Perris 311 

Pesoadero 67, 86 

Petaluma 229, 230 

Pico Blanco 110 

Piedmont 71 

Pieta 237 

Pillar Point 66 

Pitt River 210, 213 

Pittsburg 195 

Placer County 249 

Placerville 222 

Playa Del Rey 156 

Pleasanton 256 

Plumas County 244 

Plumas Junction 246 

Point Arena 240 

Point Fermin 159 



352 



Point Lobos 110 

Point Loma. , 178 

Point Pinos 107 

Point San Pedro G6 

Point Sur 110 

Point Reyes 2.J2 

Poller Flat 204 

Pomona 300 

Port Costa 1S6 

Portervilie 2S8 

Port Harford 119 

Port Los Ang-eles 158 

Portola 215 

Port San Jose 93 

Port San Luis 119 

Potter Valley 238 

Pi-inceton-by-the-Sea 06 

Purisima 67 

Purisima Mission 124 

Quincy 244 

Ramona's House 135 

Randsburg- 293 

Raymond 27? 

Red Bluff 207 

Redding- 209 

Rcdlands 309 

Redondo 157 

Redwood City 85 

Reedley 286 

Richardson Springs 206 

Richr/iond 82, 83 

Rio Vista 188 

Ripon 262 

Riverside 305 

Riverside County 304 

Roblar 231 

Rockaway Beach 66 

Rockliti 250 

Rodeo 186 

Roseville .250 

Rowardennan 100 

Rubio Canyon 165 

Rumsey 198 

Russian River 230, 235 

Sacramento 189-194 

Sacramento County 259 

Sacramento River 189 

Sacramento Valley 190 

Saint Helena 225 

Salada 66 

Salinas 113 

Salinas Valley 113 

Saline City 93 

Saitoh Sea 315 

Sanger 286 

San Andreas 260 

San Anselmo 232 

San Antone Falls 273 



San Antonio de Padua 120 

San Antonio de Pala 179 

San Ardo 115 

San Benito County 110 

San Bernardino 302 

San Bernardino County 300 

San Buenaventura 131 

San Carlos Mission 109 

San Clemente Island 160 

San Diego 173-179 

San Diego County 171 

San Dimas 169 

San Emigdio 283 

San Felician 134 

San Fernando 137, 290 

San Francisco 33-63 

San Francisco Bay 35 

San Gabriel 149 

San Oabriel River 164 

San Gabriel Valley 299 

San Gorgonlo Pass 314 

San Jacinto 311 

San Joaquin County Zbl 

San Joaquin River 258 

San Jose. 91-92 

San Jose Mission 319 

San Juan Ill 

San .Tua.n Capistrano 170 

San .Tuan Ridge 254 

San Leandro 255 

San Lorenzo River 96, 100 

San Lucas 115 

San Luis Obispo 118 

San Luis Obispo County... 115 

San Luis Rey 172 

San MRrcos Pass 125, 128 

San Marino 167 

San Mateo 85 

Sa,n Mateo County 84 

San Miguel 115 

San Nicolas Island 160 

San Onofre 171 

San Pablo 186 

San Pasqual 180 

San Pedro 158 

San Pedro Valley 66 

San Rafael. . . -. 229 

San Rafael Mountains 135 

San Ram.on 196 

San Simeon 117 

San Tsidro 185 

Santa Ana 170 

Santa Barbara 126-130 

Santa Barbara Channel. . . .129 

Santa Barbara County 123 

Santa Catalina Island 160 

Santa Clara 89 

Santa Clara County 86 

Santa Clara Valley (North). 86 
Santa Clara Valley (South). 135 
Santa Cruz 98 



353 



Santa Cruz County 95 

Santa Cruz Island 129 

Santa Cruz Mountains 100 

Santa Lucia Mountains .... IIS 

Santa Margarita 118 

Santa Maria 1^2 

Santa Monica 1 r>4 

Santa Paula 1-55 

Santa Riia 113 

Santa Rosa --il 

Santa Susana 1 >2 

Santa Ynez Mission 122 

Santa Ynez Mountains ....123 

Santa Ynez Peak 125 

Santa Ysabel 183 

Santa Ysabel Springs 117 

Sargent 102 

Saticoy 135 

Saugus 136, 290 

Sausalito 64, 229 

Sawtelle 154 

Schellville 233 

Scott Valley 217 

Seabright 09 

Seaside 103 

Sebastopol 232 

Selraa 280 

Sequoia 270 

Sequoia National Park 323 

Serrano 118 

Sespe Creek 134 

Seventeen-Mile Drive 107 

Shasta 211 

Shasta County 208 

Shasta Springs 214 

Sherman 154 

Sherwood 240 

Shorb 299 

Sierra City 203 

Sierra County 203 

Sierra Madre .167 

Sierra Valley 204 

Sierra Vista 167 

Signal Peak 276 

Silver Strand 177 

Simi Valley 132 

Sisar Peak i34 

Siskiyou County 214 

Sisquoc 122 

Sisson 215 

Sites 218 

Skaggs Springs 237 

Slate Springs 110 

Snelling 275 

Solano County 187 

Soledad 114 

Soledad Mountain 1S2 

Sonoma 233 

Sonoma County 230 

Sonora 270 

Socfuel 99 



South Pasadena 118 

!<oiilh San Francisco 84 

Spre(,kels 114 

Springville 288 

Stanford University 88 

Stanislaus County 262 

Stockton 257 

Stone Canyon 115 

Suisun 187 

Stimrnorland 130 

Sur Rivers IJO 

Surf 124 

Surprise Valley 219 

Susanville 247 

Sutter Buttes 199 

Sutter County 198 

Sutter Creek. 261 

Sutter Port 192 

Sweetwater Dam 184 

Table Mountain 269 

Taft 283 

Tamalnais 64 

Tassajara Springs 113 

Tehachapi 289 

Tehachapi Pass 2S9 

Tehama 207 

Tehama County 20G 

Tejon Pass 289 

Ternecula 313 

Ten.'pleton 117 

Tenaya Canyon 3 43 

Terminal Island 159 

Tesla 258 

Thermal 315 

Thermalito 202 

Tia .luana 185 

Tobin 66 

Tomales Bay 64 

Torrance 169 

Torrcv Pines 1S2 

Tracy 195, 257 

Ti-aver 281 

Tres Pinos HO 

Trinidad 242 

Trinity County 211 

Truckee 252 

Tudor 199 

Tulare 281 

Tula)-c County 280 

Tulare Dake 284 

Tule Lake 248 

Tunitas Glen 07 

Tuolumne 271 

Tuolumne Big Trees 270 

Tuolumne Canyon 274 

Tuolumne County 269 

Tuolumne River 262 

Turlock 2G3 

Tuscan Springs 208 

Tuttletown 271 



:?54 



Ukiali 238 

University of California. 77-82 
TJnivorsity of Redlands . . . . 310 
University of Santa Clara. ..90 
University of Southern Cal- 
ifornia 139 

University, Stanford 88 

Upland 3 01 

Upper I/ake 228 

Urbita Springs 303 

Vacaville 197 

Vallei 197, 188 

Vallejo Junction 186 

Valley Springs 260 

Vancouver Pinnacles 114 

Venice 155 

Ventura 131 

Ventura County 1:)0 

Verano 234 

Vina 207 

Visalia 287 

Walmond 250 

"Warner Spring^s IS ! 

Washington IS;) 

Waterford 268 



Wa.tS(jnville 101 

Watsonville Junction 102 

Wawona 277 

Weaverville 211 

Weed 216 

Western Pacific Lines 244 

V/est Riverside 307 

Wheatland 200 

Wilbur Spring-s 218 

Williams 218 

Willits 238 

AVillow^s 219 

Winters 198 

Woodland 189 

Wyandot t'3 201 

Yalla Balla Mountains 206 

Yerba Buena Island 63 

Yolo 217 

Yolo County 188 

Yosemite Valley 332 

YouPtville 225 

Yreka 216 

Yuba City. 199 

Yuba County 200 

Zaca Lake 122 



Illustrations and Maps 



Berkeley, Greek Theater. . . 20 

Bi-idal Veil Falls. 27 

California, railroad map. 24-25 

Feather River Canyon 19 

Golden Gate Park 52 

Greek Theater, Berkeley... 20 

King-s-Kern reg-ion 322 

Lake Tahoe 18 

Lake Tahoe region 328 

Los Ang-eles and vicinity . .150 
Los Angeles, central part 

144-145 

Los Ang-eles court house.. 12 

Monterey coast scene 14 

Mount Shasta 22 

Oakland, central part 69 

Oakland's city hall 17 

Orang-es and snov^^ 28 

Panama-Cal. Exposition... 15 
Panama-Cal. Exposition. .. 174 



Panama-Pacific Exposition 

56-57, 304-305 

Pasear 292 

Sacramento 190 

San Francisco, bay region. . 32 
San Francisco, dow^ntown . . 37 
San Francisco, general view 

40-41 

San Francisco shopping dist 46 
San Francisco, waterfront. . 13 

Santa Cruz^ beach 16 

Santa Cruz big tree 29 

San Diego 174 

San Jose to Santa Cruz. ... 97 
San Juan Bautista mission 16 

State Capitol building 26 

Tahoe, Lake 18 

Tahoe, lake region 328 

University of California... 78 
Yosemite, Bridal Veil Falls 27 
Yosemite Valley 336-337 



Shasta Limited 

EXTRA FARE— TRAIN DE LUXE 



Lv. 


San Francisco (Ferry Station) 


11:20 a. 


m 


Ar. 


Portland 2nd Day 


2:30 p. 


m 


Ar. 


Tacoma 2nd Day 


7:40 p. 


m 


Ar. 


Seattle 2nd Day 


9:00 p. 


m 



Every Comfort and Convenience 

DraAving-Rooms Ladies' Parlor Barber Shop 

Compartments Library ValetService 

Three-Room Suites Writing Desks Ladies' Maid 
Berths and Sections Stenographer Hairdressing 
Observation-CIubroom Stock Reports Manicuring 
FIRST CLASS TICKETS ONLY 

Portland Express 

Lv. San Francisco (Ferry Station) 10:20 p. m. 

Ar. Portland 3rd Day - - 7:40 a. m. 

Ar. Tacoma 3rd Day - - 1:40 p. m. 

Ar. Seattle 3rd Day - - 3:15 p.m. 

Standard Pullman and Tourist Sleeping Cars 

Observation Car. Dining Car to Portland 

ALL CLASSES OF TICKETS 

Oregon Express 

Lv. San Francisco (Ferry Station) 8:20 p. m. 

Ar. Portland 3rd Day - - 8:15 a.m. 

Ar. Tacoma 3rd Day - - 1:40 p.m. 

Ar. Seattle 3rd Day - - 3: 1 5 p. m. 

Standard Pullman and Tourist Sleeping Cars 

Dining Car to Portland 

ALL CLASSES OF TICKETS 

Southern Pacific 

The Exposition Line— 1915 

SAN FRANCISCO: 

Flood Building Palace Hotel Ferry Station Phone Kearny 3160 

Third and Townsend Streets Station Phone Kearny 1 80 

OAKLAND: Broadway and Thirteenth Street Phone Oakland 162 
Sixt2enth St.Station Phone Lakside 1420 First St. Station Phone Oakland 7960 



8 



Daily Trains 

to Los Angeles 

Quickest Service — Shortest Routes 



SHORE LINE Lv. San Francisco 1^'' 8:00 a.m. 
LIMITED Ar. Los Angeles 9:30p.m. 

Down the coast by Daylight. Observation Car, Parlor Car, Dining Car 
First class tickets only 

THE OWL Lv.San Francisco IrZ„ 6:20p.m. 
Ar. Los Angeles 8:33 a.m. 

Buffet-Library Car, Standard Pullman, Observation Car, Dining Car 
First class tickets only 

THE LARK Lv.San Francisco™ ''8:00p.m. 
Ar. Los Angeles 9:43 a.m. 

Standard Pullman, Observation Car, Dining Car 
First class tickets only 

COASTER Lv.San Francisco SI'' 7:00a.m. 
Ar. Los Angeles 10:30 p.m. 

Chair Cars, Smoking Car, Dining Car 
All classes of tickets 

Four Additional Trains leaving San Francisco daily with 
Standard Pullman and Dining Cars. All classes of tickets: 

Valley Express IZL 1 0:40 a.m. 

Sunset Express Sll'' 4:00 p.m. 

San Joaquin Valley Flyer ^,Xn 4:40 p.m. 

Los Angeles Passenger JSn'*' 1 0:00p. m. 



The Exposition Line -1915 

SAN FRANCISCO: 

Flood Building Palace Hotel Ferry Station Phone Kearny 3 1 60 

Third and Townsend Streets Station Phone Kearmy 180 

OAKLAND: Broadway and Thirteenth St. Phone Oakland 162 

Sixteenth Street Station Phone Lakeside 1 420 First St. Station Phone Oakland 7960 




ESTABLISHED 1905 



'POOR ROADS-POOR SCHOOLS- 
IGNORANCE-POVERTY" 



'GOOD ROADS-GOOD SCHOOLS- 
KNO WLEDGE-PR OSPERITY' ' 



GOOD ROADS have a moral, civic 
and educational value v^^hich cannot 
be measured in dollars 

PACIFIC MOTOR is doing more in 
the interest of good roads than any 
other magazme 



Will you help us help by subscribing now 



ONE DOLLAR 

will bring it to you for one year 
Mail check, money order or currency to 

PACIFIC Motor Publishing Co. 

822 Balboa Building, San Francisco 



WESTERN PACIFIC 

BETWEEN 

SAN FRANCISCO, OAKLAND, SACRAMENTO, SALT 

LAKE CITY, PUEBLO, DENVER. OMAHA. 

CHICAGO, KANSAS CITY 

and ST. LOUIS 

VIA 

DENVER & RIO GRANDE and BURLINGTON ROLTE 
DENVER & RIO GRANDE and ROCK ISLAND LINES 
DENVER & RIO GRANDE and MISSOLJRI PACIEIC RY. 

through the 

Grand Canyon of the Feather River 

and 

The Royal Gorge 

Two FINE 
RAINS 

THE *TANAMA=PACIFIC" EXPRESS, with Observation Cars 

a n d 

THE -MOIS" MAIL 

Equipment 

Standard Drawhig Room and Tourist Sleeping Cars 

Steel Day Coaches and Baggage Cars 

Dining Cars 

Electric Lights 

For further information apply to 
any W^estern Pacific Agent, or 

E. L. LOMAX, 

Passenger Traffic Manager, San Francisco 




George Friend Company 



Exclusive Agents for^ 



Thousand Oaks Properties 



Make your home in California 
Make your home in San Francisco Bay region 
Make your home in Berkeley, the University City 
Make your home in Thousand Oaks, the choice spot of all, 
opposite the Golden Gate 



For dependable information concerning the best propositions in home sites address us. 
Full and reliable descriptive printed matter sent free on application. 

To the GEORGE FRIEND COMPANY, 
2037 Shattuck Avenue, 

Berkeley, California, 
Gentlemen: 

Please send without obligation on my part your best information about hoine 
propositions in Berkeley, and particularly in Thousand Oaks, the residence dirndl 
de luxe of Berkeley. 

Signed 

Address * 



W. J. Mortimer & Co. 

HOTEL SHA TTUCK BLDG. BERKELEY, CAL. 

Agents for and dealers in selected Real Estate 



CALIFORNIA LAND VALUES ANALYZED 
FOR YOUR BENEFIT 

HOME SITES OR PROFITABLE INVESTMENTS 



Expert advice given to clients concerning the latest and 

most important tract developments in all 

parts of the state 

ADDRESS: 

W. J. MORTIMER & CO. 

BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA 

SEE OAKLAND, CAL. 

before you leave the Pacific Coast. It is the center of the r. ost 
rapidly growing population in the United States according tc the 
1910 U. S. Census. A Beautiful City. European tourists sa 
a view from its Piedmont Hills and Joaquin Miller's Home 
the Hights " is equal to the Bay of Naples. 

•'A CITY THAT YOU WILL WONDER AT 




REAL ESTATE CO. 

Established 27 years 
Employing thirty-five people 

Office and Salesroom 1432-1434 BROADWAY 
CABLE ADDRESS "LAYMANCE" OAKLAND, CAL. 



JUST A WORD 

TO OUR VISITORS ABOUT THE BAY 

We truSl that your visit to this portion of our State has determined 
you to make your home among us. 

IF IN SAN FRANCISCO, we trust you will visit 

^t. Jfrancifi OTIoob 

the most beautiful and higSly dsvelopsd residsnce park anywhere in the 
West; to be reached soon by the famous Twin Peaks Tunnel, nou) by the 
Ellis Street cars. No. 17. 

IF IN BERKELEY , idea of hems cities, we want to show you 

jgortljbrae 

the best known of residence distrids on the eastern shore of the Bay; joined 
direct to San Francisco by four separate suburban electric lines. 

Don't fail to pay us a visit. It will b; worth your while. 

MASON-McDUFFlE COMPANY 

San Francisco Office RPrAT PQTATP Berkeley Office 

80 Post Street 1\EL/^L^ ILO 1 /"V 1 EL. Berkeley Station 

FRANK K. MOTT CO. 

,/ SECURITY BANK BUILDING 

OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA 

Oakland Investments and Fine Homes 
Department covering lands m the entire State 

When You Travel 

You will add to your comfort by taking a letter of Credit and Travelers' 
Checks issued by us. Our letters of credit are accepted by bankers of the 
highest landing throughout the world, and provide holders with funds in any 
country. 

Circulars regarding foreign travel and ( her data furnished free on request 

FIRST NATIONAL BANK OF BERKELEY 

BERKELEY BANK OF SAVINGS 
AND TRUST COMPANY 

BERKELEY, CAL. 




PARTICULAR ATTEN- 
TION DEVOTED TO 
SELLING THAT PART 
OF THE EARTH 
KNOWN AS THE 
STATE OF CALIFORNIA 



PLEASURE PLUS BUSINESS 

You may go through the country with your eyes shut, and 
thus avoid seeing the many fine chances for profitable invest- 
ment. If you do that it is your own fault, for all about you 
are propositions which offer splendid opportunities. 

It is a good thing to have an outing amid pleasant sur- 
roundings. AH men and women know this, and that is why 
the State of California is crowded with visitors from one year's 
end to the next. But it will not detract from the enjoyment 
of your vacation if you are able to make a turn that will 
pay expenses. 

When you find something attractive in the way of real 
estate, consult us and get the advantage of our experience. 

IVe are able to present for your judgement some of the preferred 
propositions on the Pacific Coast 

Special care in examining oil lands. Confidential reports. 
Here is an opening for operators of means. California is the lar- 
gest oil producer in the United States. New fields are in demand 

JUSTER & BAIRD 

2125 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley, Cal. 



BERKELEY BUSINESS COLLEGE 

IS THE BUSINESS UNIVERSITY OF THE WEST 

A fact is worth tons of argument. The secret of our success: 

EVERY GRADUATE PLEASED AND PLACED. 

Students enrollmg from all parts of the United States. Write for 
"LEARN HOW TO CLIMB," and you will become one of 
our enthusiastic students. 

Berkeley is the Educational Center of the Pacific Coaft 

BERKELEY BUSINEES COLLEGE. BERKELEY, CAL. 



BERKELEY 

CALIFORNIA 
OPPOSITE THE GOLDEN GATE 




This outline map shows the relative position of the chief cities 
about the Bay of San Francisco. The Panama-Pacific International 
Exposition will be reached from Berkeley and other Alameda 
County points by ferry service direct to the doors of the Ejcposition. 

Berkeley is the seat of the University of California. High class 
public schools and private institutions of learning make Berkeley 
the Educational Capital of the Pacific Coast. 

As a home place Berkeley is unexcelled. 

Unusual manufacturing opportunities are available here. Level 
lands at low prices; water transportation; municipal wharf and nom- 
inal charges; two transcontinental railroads pass through the city; 
best urban and interurban electric car service in America. 

For additional information concerning the pleasant city of 
Berkeley, address: 

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 
BERKELEY. CALIFORNIA 



Overland Limited 

EXTRA FARE— TRAIN DE LUXE 

Southern Pacific Union Pacific 

Chicago & North Western 

To Chicago in 63^ Hours 

Lv. San Francisco (Ferry Station) 4:00 p. m. 

Lv. Oakland (Sixteenth St. Station) 4:32 p. m. 

Ar. Chicago (North Western Station) 9:30 a. m. 

(3rd Morning) 

NEW ALL-STEEL EQUIPMENT-ELECTRIC LIGHTED 

Observation Car, Ladies' Parlor, Library, Buffet-Clubroom Car, 

Drawingrooms, Compartments, Dining Car 

Barber Shop Shower Bath Valet Service Stock and 

Ladies' Maid Stenographer Manicuring News Report 

FIRST CLASS TICKETS ONLY 

Pacific Limited 

NEW TRANSCONTINENTAL TRAIN 

Southern Pacific Union Pacific 

Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul 

To Chicago in 69 Hours 

From San Francisco (Ferry Station) 10:20 a. m. 

From Oakland (Sixteenth St. Station) 10:58 a. m. 

Arrive Chicago (Union Station) 9:15 a.m. 

(3rd morning) 

Observation Car Ladies' Parlor-Library Dining Car 

Standard Pullman and Tourist Sleeping Cars 

ALL CLASSES OF TICKETS 

Southern Pacific 

THE EXPOSITION LINE- 191 5 
SAN FRANCISCO: 

Flood Building Palace Hotel Ferry Station Phone Kearny 3 1 6C 

Third and Townsend Streets Station Phone Kearny 180 

Oakland: Thirteenth Street and Broadway Phone Oakland 162 

Sixteenth St. Station Phone Lakeside 1420 First St. Station Phone Oakland 7960 



To New York 

By Rail and Occail 

A Delightful Wa^ to Go 



Rail to New Orleans 



From San Francisco, Third S(. Station, daily via Coast Line, 

through southern California, Arizona, Texas and Louisiana to 

New Orleans. Electric lighted. Observation Library - 

ll'^Z Clubroom Car. Pullman Sleepers, Reclining Chair Cars, 
Dining Car. AH classes of tickets. 

Steamer to New York — 

l..^ Five delightful days. New Orleans to New York, on Gulf and 
Ocean, by Southern Pacific's commodious 10,600-lon steamers. 
Excellent Service throughout. Promenade decks. Staterooms 
single or en suite, with pador and bath. 

Rates same as All-Rail, but include Berth and Meals on Steamer 

1ST CLASS 2ND CLASS 1ST CLASS 

ONE WAY ONE WAY ROUND TRIP 

$77.75 $65.75 $145.50 

Southern Pacific 

THE EXPOSITION LINE— 1915 

SAN FRANCISCO: 

Flood Building Palace Hotel Ferry Building Phone Kearny 3160 

Third and Townsend Sts. Phone Kearny 180 32 Powell St. Phone Sutter 980 

OAKLAND: Broadway and Thirteenth St. Phhoe Oakland 162 
Sixteenth St. Station Phone Lakeside 1420 Fir^St. Station Phone Oakland 7960 




(Fireproof) 

HOTEL SHATTUCK 

Berkeley, California 

NOAH W. GRAY, Manager 

THE SHATTUCK caters to the tourist, 
the traveler and all others who appreciate 
first class service in a first class hotel 

When ^ou come to the 

'PANAMA -PACIFIC EXPOSITION 

You will find '^he Shattuck, with three hundred 

rooms, the most convenient and the most economical 

hole at which to stop 

Southern Pacific and Key Route electric trains to and 

from San Francisco and street cars pass our doors 

Block and a half from railway stations 

Two blocks from entrance to University campus 

GROUND SHELL TENNIS COURT FOR GUESTS 
^Reservations made b^ letter or telegraph, address 

HOTEL SHATTUCK 

BERKELEY. CAL. 




HOTEL OAKLAND 

One of the moSl beautiful hotels in the world 

SPACIOUS-ELEGANT— QUIET— COMFORTABLE 

Fail ferry service to San Francisco and the Exposition makes Hotel Oakland, 
apart from the main current of the crowds, the ideal place to ^op 

EUROPEAN "PLAN $1.50 PER DAY 

VICTOR REITER. Manager OAKLAND. CALIFORNIA 



Oakland's Refined HOTEL— Perfect Cleanliness 



Absolutely 
First Class 



KEY ROUTE INN 




Every Modern 
Convenience 

_ A Home for 
Ladies and 
Children 

A refined family 
Hotel. Noted for its 
excellent meals, per- 
fect cleanliness, beau- 
tifulgardens,children's 
playgrounds. Kinder- 
garten in connection. 
Electnc trains to S.F. 
every I 5 min. at our 
door. Low weekly rate 
with meals and bath, 
$15.00 one person, 
$27.50 two persons. 
Special low family rate 



HOTEL BERKELEY 

ROBERT JONES, Proprietor 

2039 SHATTUCK AVE. BERKELEY, CAL. 

The most convenient hotel in California's University City. Next to passenger 

station of the Southern Pacific. At the terminus of the Key Route electric line 



Royal 

Insurance 

COMPANY 

UNITED, 



FIRE MARINE AUTOMOBILE 

A CCIDENT HE A L TH 

LIABILITY 

Agents Everywhere 




AUTOMOBILE CONTRACTS COVERING ALL RISKS 

"ROLL A V. WA TT, Manager 
Royal Insurance Building San Francisco 

HOTEL ROWARDENNAN 

BEN LOMOND, CAL. 

The Famous Santa Cruz Mountain Resort 

Always open Modern Accommodation $2.50 up 



7556 - 1913 



50 minutes to Springs by stage daily; 



TUSCAN SPRINGS ^^w concrete bathhouse and plunge; 

booklet for asking, entitled, LetUthers 

Tell the Story." We cure others, why not you. Address ED. R. WALBRIDGE, 
Tuscan, Cal. Walbridge's Qarage, the best in the State, Red Bluff, Cal. 

In all the world no waters like these 

WILBUR HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS 

Colusa Co., Cal. 

Address J. W. Cuthbert, Wilbur Springs, Cal. 

Naturally heated and Medicated. Open all year. 



The Springs that cure. 
Sulphur Baths. Mud Baths. 



yy/ ^^ ]_^ JVl O IN L) offers a homelike retreat on the cottage and tent 



The Sierra Resort at Applegate 



plan for families and individuals. The equipment 
is modern, the location is picturesque and the 



table is generous. Special rates to families and long term guests. No Consumptives. 
Jlddress, L. A- T)ESMOND, jjpplegate, Cal. 



HOTELS IN SAN FRANCISCO 

For the convenience of the traveler, we give the location of a number 
of hotels in San Francisco 



HOTEL ST. FRANCIS 
HOTEL FAIRMONT 
PALACE HOTEL 
HOTEL SUTTER 
HOTEL MANX 
HOTEL TURPIN 



'Powell and Qeary 

California and Mason 

Marvel and New Montgomery 

Sutler and Kearny 

Powell and O'Farrell 

1 7 Powell 



Paid up Capital, $58,000 

El Camino Sierra Garage 

LEECE & WATTERSON. Proprietors 
(Incorporated) 

Agency Inyo County for 

STUDEBAKER AND FORD 
AUTOMOBILES 

KELLEY SPRINGFIELD TIRES 
MONOGRAM OILS AND GREASES 



General Automobile Supplies and Accessories, 
Robes, Caps, Goggles, and Gloves 

FULLY EQUIPPED MACHINE SHOP 

A. M. SCHIVELEY, Manager BISHOP. CAL. 

Hotel Istalia 

Bertrand Rhine, Mgr. 
BISHOP, Inyo County, Cal. AMERICAN PLAN 



INYO STORE CO. 

Bishop, Cal. 

Tourists' and Campers' Provisions 

Choicest Quality--Greatest Variety 

Specially Selected for Outing Trade 



RICHARDSON SPRINGS 

10 MILES FROM CHICO, BUTTE CO. 

An excellent place to rest on your auto trip. Good Roads, 
good bathing, good water. For information, address 

Mgr. Springs. LEE RICHARDSON. Chico, Cal. 



OUTING EMPORIUM 

Fishing equipment, firearms, am- 
munition, tents, saddles and all 
kinds of outing supplies 
Specially selected for the East-Sierra country 

Everything that is wanted by the 
CAMPER, FISHERMAN and HUNTER 

Largest Sporting Goods House in Trans-Sierra California 

LEECE & WATTERSON, (Inc.) 

Bishop, California 



THE PA SEAR GARAGE 

New and Throughly Modern Equipment 

EXPERT MECHANICS EMPLOYED 

Bring your car to us when in need of the service of a Garage 
Free Storage for Transient Cars 

SOUTH MAIN ST. BISHOP, CALIFORNIA 

Reliance in Communication 

Is the traveler's greatest satisfaction 

We connect by telephone or telegraph to all 

the outside w^orld 

IVA TCH FOR OUR SIGNS 
INTERSTATE TELEGRAPH CO. 

Bishop, Inyo County, Cal. 



BIG PINE 

INYO COUNTY 

HOTEL BUTLER 

V. S. Richardson, Manager 

Auto meets all trains Rates Reasonable 

Neat Rooms and First-Class Table 

BIG PINE GARAGE 

BIG PINE, CAL. 

J. H. KISPERT, Proprietor 

REPAIRING A SPECIALTY 

Gasoline, oils, and supplies on hand at all times 
CARS STORED BY THE DAY OR BY THE WEEK 



HALL & McAFEE 

HARDWARE 

BIG PINE, CAL. 

Sporting goods a specialty. We are situated in the heart of the best 
fishing and hunting region in the State 

Call and select your outfit; we will treat you right 

PACKER AND GUIDE 

For hunting, fishing and all points of interest in the 

HIQH SIERRAS 

Saddle animals, pack animals and camp outfits complete, 

furnished at reasonable rates 

For information address 

BEN R. RAN SOME, BIG PINE, CAL. 



The Maze, Piedmont Park 




No visit to California is complete rvithoui a visit to beautiful 

PIEDMONT PARK AND ART GALLERY 

Piedmont Park, a wonderland of flowers and foliage, is situated in the heart of 
Piedmont, an exclusive residence suburb of Oakland. The Art Gallery is the most 
notable and extensive modern collection west of New York, and includes the 
celebrated Russian collection of pictures exhibited at the World's Fair, St. Louis. 
'Piedmont Park is reached by the Key l^oute from San Francisco and by the 
street cars from Oakland. A nominal admission is charged. 




Comoiled From notes bv 
ALWE5TGAR0 



Proposed Route of the Midland Trail across the Continent 



MILLS COLLEGE 

SUBURBS OF OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA 



The only Woman's College on the Pacific 
Coast. Chartered 1885. Ideal climate. Entrance 
and graduation requirements equivalent to those of 
Stanford University and University of Californ'a, 
nearby. Laboratories for science with modern 
)i equipment. Excellent opportunities for home econ- 
omics, library study, music, art. Modern gym- 
nasium. Special care for health of students; out- 
door life. Christian influences; undenominational. 

President Luella Clay Carson, 

A. M., LL. D. 




The Carripanile 



For catalogue, address Registrar, Dept. P. 
Mills College P. O., Cal. 




Route & Map Service 

AMERICAN AUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION 

• 457 Srii Ave. New York. 



HEIttRKj^YORK; 



■J ILLINOIS \ Sprir. 



MISSOURI 



'L AMOMA 





MIDLAND TRAIL 



as Mapped by the American Automobile Association. 



Southern Pacific Service 



There 
are 

Attrac- 
tive 
Places 
of 

Resort 
Every 
Few 



M 



lies 



on 



Lines 
of 



Is THE STANDARD 

Trains protected by Automatic Electric Block Signals 




V \ -^J ^ v -iy I' ( " 1 1 t II t » \^aiii^v-u ^^^,. .^-.^■-« 
-.^^ \" s '^!^ ^ ^i^S^v^ ^ 7'AnacondacXAuTTE 

, ;^.^\\ <^^ "^ .^f^^\\'^ ( Silver Bowir^X,^ • 




Map of 
SOUTHERN PACIFIC o ^^ 

Sunset 

Ogden and Shasta 

Routes 

AND CONNECTIONS 



Southern Pacific 

THE EXPOSITION LINE-1915 



See the Wonders 



of 



Yosemite 



OPEN ALL YEAR 



Only a Day from San Francisco 



Leave Ferry Station 8:40 a. m. 

Leave Oakland (16th St.) 9:14 a. m. 
Arrive El Portal 6:20 p. m. 



Round -Trip fare from San Francisco, in- 
cluding stage fare between El Portal and 
Sentinel Hotel, in center of Park, 14 miles 



$22.35 



Stage fare from Sentinel Hotel to Wawona, 
(Mariposa Big Trees,) 25 miles, and return, $15 



Southern Pacific 

THE EXPOSITION LINE-1915 

SAN FRANCISCO: 

Flood Building Palace Hotel Ferry Station Phone Kearny 3160 

Third and Townsend Streets Station Phone Kearny 180 

OAKLAND: Broadway and Thirteenth Street Phone Oakland I 62 

Sixteenth St. Station Phone Lakeside 1420 First St. Station Phone Oakland 7960 



Printed by the Berkeley Daily Gazette 

Bound by E. H. Tordorff, Berkeley Art Bindery 

Illustrations by University Engraving Company 



OCT 18 1913 



